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Dodge Ram

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Comments

  • fitefite Posts: 1
    Where can I find info on the year model 2000 dodge ram?
  • LohengrinLohengrin Posts: 84
    ezuniga,

    I have a reg cab/short bed Ram. I really like it. The bed is plenty big for me. The cab has as much room as my brother's Toyota extended cab. You can sit three across in perfect comfort. I had to go four across on one occation and even that wasn't too bad, though I wouldn't do that regularly because there's only three seat belts. Also, there's lots of space behind the seat, enough you can put small grocery bags, gym bags, or a suit case. Not haveing a family to haul around, I don't miss the extended cab at all. In fact, the regular cab makes the truck much shorter and easier to manuver. My truck is a 4x4 and its base engine is the 318. I can tell you the 318 is plenty powerful to push the truck around with confidence, though it isn't much for gas milage. I don't think it even gets better milage than the 360. I can't tell you about the V6, though I hear it's a dog.
  • venomvenom Posts: 1
    I recently bought a R/T Dakota for my Son. It is in the shop for the fourth time in twenty-eight days. The truck has a problem in the front end that causes wheel shake. As of yet they have not located it. Anyone have similar problems?
    Thanks,
    Ven
  • oldblueoldblue Posts: 1
    hi all, i'm new to this board so bear with me. Just to let u know a little about myself. I own an 88 ram 150 3.9 6 (small 6 :o( ) Got it from my grandfather for free so i can't complain. After a little work and two new factory doors (don't buy taiwan tin people) it looks, and more importanly runs, like new, or atleast a 2 year old truck, considering it only has 65 k miles on it.
    My gramps just forked over the cash (37 grand) for a 99 1500 ram laramie slt 4x4 5.9L v8 quad cab (got an ARE cap... nice addidtion) with the chrome step bumers, chrome mud flaps in front (yosemite sam in the back... i had to, its nostalgia). This, until I read some recent posts, was my dream truck, and is still very high on the pecking order (prolly at #2) behind the rumored to be redesigned 2000 rams. I hope the keep the body design... its a classy truck. (by the way, its black with sandstone tutone).

    I, like manyother people, was pissed when I found out the "chrome" grill wasn't chrome but plastic. And the rear bumper was covered with plastic... what the hell ram makers.. wake up... we like chrome. So I myself gave my gramps the 800 for a custom chrome grille (REAL CHROME DAMMIT) and I had to sacrifice the mint cond chrome bumper from my 88 (i cried...lol) (he's got a flat black from my best friend's ford now... i kinda stole it.. oh well).

    If anyone has any tips for me on getting the most out of my 88 ( i need at least 4 years, get me through college till i can buy a new ram) or anything i can do to it to supe it up. I've been looking for a lift kit, but everything i find has warnings that it screws up some other part of the truck. and any advice on caring for the new 99 is also welcome, cuz if i can't afford a truck when i get our of school then gramps is giving me that one (and he only puts on 7k miles a year so it will be in prime shape)
  • tkabbestkabbes Posts: 14
    Couldn't fork out the dough out for a new dodge so I found a 1995 club cab 8' bed 360 2wd. Great truck, tows the boat well.
    64,000 miles. Check engine light came on yesterday. Light was on about a week earlier. Shuts off with the ignition key and it doesn't come back on for maybe another week.
    Does the Dodge have a provision for the owner to read error codes or do I need to visit my friendly dealer?
    Any reply would be appreciated.
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Posts: 98
    fite,
    The Dealers are notified in July sometime of the new changes and additions to the product line. I would suggest befriending a local dealer so that he/she will pay particular attention to the changes regarding the vehicle you plan to purchase.

    tkabbes,
    IMO, a few minutes on your dealers computer, coupled with the experience of the mechanic involved, generally yields a quick diagnosis of the problem. Although I have seen gadgets that give you this information when connected to the computer, this means you have to buy this device, plus a service manual that gives the details of the particular error code. You will still end up buying what is defective, if it is as simple as a defective sensor, or be left scratching your head when interpretation of the error codes are required to diagnose a more complex problem, possibly involving more than one area. This is why the mechanics must take periodic refresher courses from the factory. Things are getting pretty high-tech with the new engines, and some problems require only a software adjustment, not necessarily replacement of parts. No more sittin' on the inside fenderwells changing plugs and points on your small-block Chevy or Ford like many of us did. My advise is to seek out a local Dealer for your problem. Browse around a little and be observant. Dealers who believe in recurrent training for their mechanics generally like to display their achievements where the customers hang out. Good luck whatever your decision may be.

    rk
  • cc1cc1 Posts: 4
    Can anyone out there tell me what gas mileage you are getting with your ram. I looking at a 99 V-8
    Thanks
  • tkabbestkabbes Posts: 14
    Hey rlkrueger,
    Thanks for the advice on the error codes. I called a local dealer and he said that they could determine the problem via diagnosis for $59.00. Sounds reasonable to me.

    TK
  • davisgdavisg Posts: 1
    The Ram 1500 is no good, the F-150, or the Toyota Tundra are better buys. The real deal is the 2500 HD, Quad-Cab. Notice you don't see alot of those in the paper, why because they are awesome. The Ford Super Duties, which look like Rams any way, and the Chevy's have nothing on it. The 360 is standard, but there is something about that Cummins or the 540(V10) that is irresistable. Clearance lamps and 4wd is a must. There is nothing like it. Mine is simply stunning. Save 5,000 if you must, but don't cop out for a fully loaded 1500 SLT for 25,000.
  • jcmdiejcmdie Posts: 595
    You don't see super duty trucks for sale used in the paper because this is a NEW model for ford. I would certainly hope no one is selling a truck that is one year old. You seem to mixing the ford with the dodge at least terminology.
  • glengleglengle Posts: 57
    To everyone who followed my saga, I'm posting this on both of the main Ram topics:

    My Ram 1500 SLT (2WD, SB, 5.9L) was in the shop 5
    times for a total of over a month. Problems still
    exist. I spoke with a district manager who said
    she would do nothing more than continue to try and
    fix it.

    The last time I picked it up (Friday) they had put
    a dent in the hood the size of a baseball and
    scraped the paint off the edge of the driver's
    door. All on my new truck with 3000 miles! They
    have now replaced the transmission, window molding,
    gas tank, some valve kit, and a plethora of other
    little things (leaf springs, bushings, brake rotor,
    etc). As a laugh, the paperwork simply states
    "Could not reproduce" or "characteristic of the
    vehicle" for most of these items. No wonder the DM
    won't help.

    To make a long story short? I'm trading it away
    tonight. The dealer is giving me $18,700 for it,
    and I'll never look back. To everyone else who
    owns a Ram, I sincerely wish you the best of luck
    and hope you never go through what I have.

    Take care,
    Greg
  • Blong1Blong1 Posts: 17
    Greg, sorry to hear that you are trading away. Unfortunately I am just about at this last resort. My 14K mileage RAM has some features that make it terrible to drive. The DM keeps insisting that this is normal and refuses to ride with me to "feel" the problem. the 1-800 who cares number was less than helpful. It's a shame as I really do like the truck other than the vibration. I waited a long time to get this truck and hope I can salvage it, but it looks pretty dismal.
    Best of luck on what ever you pick as a replacement.
  • doc6doc6 Posts: 1
    Does anyone have advice about purchasing a 99 now, or should I wait for the 2000 line? Dealer said they would be on the lot in 6-8 weeks but had no prices yet. I'm looking at a 99 Ram Quad Short bed, 5.2 liter in Driftwood. I was going to wait for the 2000 because the dealer said they would have Patriot Blue which looks great on the Durango. Will they cut the price down on the 99's soon? Thanks for any comments.
  • glengleglengle Posts: 57
    doc,

    I think Dodge just came out with a $1000 rebate not long ago.

    Blong,

    Thanks and good luck to you as well.

    Greg
  • ladyblueladyblue Posts: 326
    So sorry to hear of your troubles. The biggest problem I've had so far is still the doors. The driver's side still squeaks and now the rear door on that side is almost impossible to open. I think they've "tightened" it to the point that it's stuck shut! Like I have time to keep going back to these morons.

    Other than that, the truck is great. Good luck to you.
  • Does anyone out there have any more current information concerning the availability of either the 6-speed manual or the improved Alison automatic transmissions? If they are "a long way off" I will buy an existing 5-speed now. If they are "on the near horizon" I can wait a bit.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    The 6 speed manual is expected to be a regular production option for 2000 Cummins-powered trucks. No word yet on Allison availability.
  • gashoggashog Posts: 10
    In post 495 and 497 you were cussing and discussing the A/C settings and I thought I'd throw in my $.02. The A/C is operating in so many different switch positions that it is better to identify where it does NOT function. Geobc is correct that it doesn't function at the feet only or face only position. It does function in the FEET & FACE combination position even though there is no "snowflake" (always wondered what that symbol meant, thanks mharde2)at that position. There is a one line explanation in my 99 Ram owners manual that says so.
    It is really too bad that Dodge didn't follow the Chevy and Ford lead and put in a separate A/C on/off switch.
    Have you folks figured out which position blocks outside air and which position brings in outside air?
    Gashog
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Gashog,

    The 94-97 Ram AC controls would have driven you nuts. Technically, there is an AC on/off, but it isn't set up that way. The center knob for the fan speeds goes in two directions from 12-o'clock (off) - clockwise increases fan speeds without AC, counterclockwise increases fan speeds with AC on.

    As for outside air, only "Max AC/Recirc" is a completely closed system. All other settings let in outside air.
  • fairygm1fairygm1 Posts: 1
    After lurking about a couple of days... believe someone out there might be able to answer "what is a SOLID or LIVE axle as seen or pointed out by certain salespeople on the 4x4 Ram. Yeah, I'm a gal & we're not 'sposed to know stuff like that but hubby is looking over my shoulder. Any ideas or explanations a greenhorn might understand?
  • gashoggashog Posts: 10
    When I posted info about A/C switch I was laughing so hard I forgot to cry about the A/C in my 99 Ram 1500 QC 4X4. About two weeks ago the A/C just quit making cold air in any switch position. The fan was pumping out plenty of breeze but I had to use the backup 260 air condition system that most vehicles are equipped with.
    After sitting quietly in the driveway overnight, the A/C worked fine. Later on, it quit again for several hours but came back on line while I was driving in town. I looked at the compressor and it is engaging and disengaging like it should.
    I took it to the dealer yesterday and they kept it overnight. Still trying to make the problem show up for the tech. I suppose.
    Anyone had A/C problems like this?
    I miss my truck.
    Gashog
  • kcram,

    Actually, my '96 A/C controls make some sense to me ... only the positions colored blue are "A/C on." Maybe I am just "conditioned" to that color scheme ...

    (patiently waiting for the 6-speeds ...)
  • I am planning to buy a new 4X4 ram truck W/5.9 cummins , 6-speed manual trans., trailer tow pkg., sure grip axle & camper special group. These options I are a given.
    There are some other choices that I would appreciate some input on.
    I will be using the truck mainly when pulling an 18'horse trailer or 20'flat bed trailer, both bumper pull trailers. These trailers can weigh as much as 12,000 lbs. when fully loaded. Presently I pull these trailers (thru our mountainous region of NE Washington) with an F350 CC 7.3D with single rear tires. It pulls the trailer well enough but I am tired of replacing the "state of the art" auto transmission, 3 the last 24,000 mi., the first at 112,000 mi.
    Here are my questions:
    Are there any improvements worth waiting for on the 2000's such as brakes, tranny etc.??
    3.55 or 4.10 rear axle??
    2500 or 3500?? (some folks have told me 2500=f350)
  • geobcgeobc Posts: 2
    Re posting 510:

    Sorry to hear of your troubles, I was just wondering why they replaced your tranny? was it because of the buzzing or hum in reverse? I am interested as I have this buzzing or humming in reverse and dealer advises it is a known problem but also says it should not cause a breakdown.

    Can you or anyone else shed some light on this problem and has anyone had it corrected?

    Thanks

    Geobc
  • glengleglengle Posts: 57
    Well, I had several drivability problems. The humming took place in forward and reverse, even after the "fix" for the TSB. It was some sort of valve body kit. No help.

    Mine also had an excessive bog trying to come out of O/D. Even DC agreed it was excessive. So they put the new tranny in. Everything was fixed except the bog. They fixed that by tightening/shortening the kickdown cable, making the tranny respond more quickly when gas is applied. Less fuel economy, better drivability.

    All of the other things I took it in for were never resolved, so I traded it away. It's been so peaceful around here since...
  • ladyblueladyblue Posts: 326
    Great explanation of the different suspensions. I, too, questioned the roughness of the ride in my Ram as compared to my F150. Kcram (you guys aren't related, are you? Same last name...hehehe) was able to explain the difference to me.

    I do find my Ram handles better than my Ford on rough, unpaved roads and over rocks and fields, especially the steering.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    All us Rammers are related ;)
  • ladyblueladyblue Posts: 326
    Congrats, sako. Red was my second choice. Hope you like it! :-)
  • dokkopdokkop Posts: 4
    To: kcram et al

    Anybody have experience with starting/running the 24v Cummins in really cold weather (-20 to -35 degrees)? At those temps up here in Northern NYS we add conditioner or kerosene to tractor diesel; (if you don't the fuel turns into vaseline), keep the battery fully charged and use magnetic block heaters if you want to fire up the thing. I assume fuel thinners necessary in the Cummins; do the cylinder preheaters work well? Considering going from gas to diesel and would appreciate any info available.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    dok,

    My buddies in your neck of the woods look for diesel #1 if they can find it locally, and keep LOTS of anit-gel additive handy. The standard engine block heater will work wonders, and the Cummins also uses a fuel heater at the engine pump to warm the fuel as before it gets to the pump and injectors to reduce the possibility of wax and gel getting through.

    Another thing you want to do is, in the winter only, change from 15W40 to 5W30 when the temps will stay at or below 0 degrees. Your owner's manual explains it better (for those unaware, diesel Rams have a completely different owner's manual than gasoline Rams).
This discussion has been closed.