Bouncing Betsy

zigman

I also have experienced "bouncing" on certain freeway sections. I have a 2000 (2500 longbox) 4X4 with Firestone tires. If I don't vary the speed in those sections, the bouncing and shaking can be a pain. This problem always occurs at the same section of the freeway that is a small part of my daily commute. For that reason, I accept the theory that this is related to the expansion seams between concrete sections and not the fault of the truck. I know that this has been discussed earlier but please give me some advise as to what if anything has been done about this problem. Love the truck and hate the ride. The problem is much worse when I tow my 5th wheel which is only 25 feet long.

PF_Flyer

As you noted, it's obviously this particular stretch of road. And you have the answer... you simply have to change your speed there. It's a kind of resonant frequency problem. The expansion seams between the concrete sections are giving you little "boosts" that your suspension normally would handle. But the distance between them coupled with being at just the right speed, along with the way your suspension is operating combine to give you a bit of a wild ride. I suppose you COULD make changes to your truck (shocks, springs, etc.) but that seems kind of extreme to deal with ONE section of ONE roadway. And it probably would create more problems than it solves.

PF Flyer

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txyank1

C'mon "Flyer" you must have been around here long enough to know it's MANY sections of concrete roadway all over the country. And it's VERY annoying. I for one don't think it's at all acceptable that we should have to put up with it in a brand new vehicle. If, as some in other forums have suggested, the "Verisoft" (I think that's the name) shackles help, then GM should be coming up with something and fixing these trucks.

obyone

I drove all big three trucks over the same patch of highway. And they all do it. The rado may have a little more, with dodge in the middle and ford the smoothest....but they all do it.

Velvet ride shackels will help absorb some of the bounce. I have a pair installed on mine.

txyank1

Do we know yet if the 1500HD's do it? I haven't checked the specs but I assume they have a longer wheelbase than our x-cabs. I alsmost bought a "Screw" when I bought my '01 but just couldn't quite bring myself to do it.

tucsonjwt

under bumpy road conditions. My old 73 3/4 ton beater has a much smoother ride over rough roads - I think because the old frame has more "flex" than the new truck. The trade off is that the old truck has very poor handling characteristics when compared to the new truck. Velvet ride shackles help some on the new truck. GM thinks we want handling more than we want a nice ride.

obyone

Not sure on the 1500HD as I haven't test driven one...not that I didn't have the opportunity. But didn't want to trade the old xcab in just yet. I would think that they do thogh as it relates to the length of the wheelbase.

redsilverado

a longbed?

zigman

Yes my chevrolet is a full size long box. it has a regular cab and does have the trailer towing package.

redsilverado

my ext. cab SB rado has the hoppity hop, but not to the point of being uncomfortable. my ext. cab LB rado has the same condition but only worse. when i installed the edelbrock shocks on the LB, it handle the same problem stretches of freeway in a more mild manner. don't know if this is what you want to hear, but trust me you are not alone. there was a stretch of freeway on the pacific coast that i always dreaded last year, and it has since been repaved with asphalt over the old concrete. it's now a pleasure to drive on. only with the truck loaded, i notice that the ride is even smoother, but this is natural with a pickup.

bamatundra

If you really have to have a 3/4 ton, then rough ride is part of the package.

You sound like you need a daily driver. If you want to compromise on towing and hauling capacity, then consider a 1/2 ton.

If your 25 ft. trailer is less than 7200lb loaded, and you tow on an infrequent basis, you would be MUCH happier with the Tundra. Read this article:

 http://www.trailerlife.com/test/0002tundra.cfm

Test drive a Tundra over the same section of road. You will be amazed.

lake5

before doing anything silly, check out this site,
-
www.tundrasolutions.com
-
lots of serious issues concerning the tundra and it's towing capacity.

sonjaab

Is towing a 5TH wheel with a tundra.
Make that sharp turn with that short box
and the 5th wheel will be smashing into the
cab.
Ziggy you have the right truck for the task.
I went from a 1/2 to 3/4 ton Chevy and the
bouncing IS more pronounced esp. unloaded.
But I needed a truck to WORK and the toy
wouldn't cut it...I can live with it......Geo

oldharry

Oby, I put a set of NAPA's Velvet Ride (tm) shackles on my half ton, they do make an improvement, but not enough IMO to justify the $135 wholesale price.

Harry

zigman

I don't agree with you all when you say that my problem should be better with a load. It is not better. I do not have the firm shocks because I drive more without a load than with a load. Was I wrong in ordering the 2500 without the firm suspension. Also my tires are supposed to be 80 lbs pressure and I am running 70 . My dealer said no to shackles . If I get new shocks to help what do you suggest? Please give me a name and # for the shocks.

obyone

Should be more like 40 or 50.
Bilstein
Front BE5-6081
Back BE5-6082

You could also check out Edelbrock and KYB. BTW, I dumped my Firestones on my Denali and replaced with Michelins...made a world of difference

ryanbab

70psi and truck runs rough (bouncy)

I wonder why.

Why did you buy a 2500 series truck if you drive more without a load than with a load?

txyank1

Does the Denali bounce?

ryanbab

probably like a superball

eric2001

It only bounced after an eruption.

Do the velvet shackles help on the magma roads? LOL

-Eric

obyone

a very slight bounce...barely noticeable.

But if you compare wheelbase, the Denali is similar to a regular cab short bed. So the comparison would be different, not sure if the Denali XL or Yukon XL has the bounce.

One thing good about magma roads....it continually resurfaces itself.

tucsonjwt

(or seat of the pants) of the beholder. I think two people can drive the same truck with velvets and have different opinions of the benefit. I found that the velvets improved traction and caused me to burn rubber unintentionally until I got a lighter foot on the gas pedal. I wanted any improvement I could get because I was used to the smooth ride of my old 73 3/4 ton. $135 has to be about the cheapest improvement you can make regarding ride -most of us paid like $165 +. I would still go with the velvets, but might try monore premium shocks to go with them. All in all, I found that the velvets improved traction and the Edelbrocks improved handling - not what I was looking for, but the ride was improved some. I am the adventurous sort, so I don't regret my choices.

oldharry

If the velvets "improved traction" why are you burning more rubber? I own a shop, and am my local NAPA dealer's biggest ride control products customer. I get a little more discount than most, but once in a while I hear of someone with a better deal. I generally stay with the local guy though because being one of their bigger customers usually means better service. I have NAPA/Monroe Reflex shocks, but think the Sensa Tracs we put on my son's truck two years ago ride a little better. The steering damper kit (not standard on two wheel drive) did more noticable improvement than the velvet rides in my opinion. The damper improves the feel of the front end on gravel and very rough pavement. I didn't notice any change in traction, but with an open differential I carry one seventy pound sand tube all year, and five in winter.

Harry

obyone

on a locker? Maybe cheaper on gas than carrying 350#s of sand. Course, you'll probably still have to carry some.

zigman

the Sensa Tracs? Do they have a number? What about the Edelbrock shocks that are always promoted in the trailer magazines?

oldharry

are Monroe's (Tenneco) second best shocks for trucks. They are a heavy duty shock with by pass grooves in the cylinders that allow a small amount of fluid to pass around the pistons at the center of travel, then taper off to force all fluid throughthe valves everywhere else. They provide some releif to the heavy duty ride in both compression and rebound. Reflex are a heavy duty shock with a valve connected to a weighted slug that opens to by pass some fluid during compression cycle only to take the worst off sharp bumps. Shocks with compression damping ride rougher, but prevent wheel hop better for heavily loaded vehicles than high pressure mono tubes that cannot have compression damping. On a sports car with low unsprung weight mono tubes are usually the best for ride and handling.

Harry

oldharry

ryanbab

you sell shocks? Any info on bilsteins?

quadrunner500

I prefer the weighed slug (speed sensing) to the grooves (position sensing). The grooves give a compliant ride that's plush because it allows constant suspension movement[not what I want]. The weighted slug gives a firm, controlled ride over smooth pavement, while taking the hit off sharp bumps.

I don't think Bilsteins do either, but they do (or did) have a lifetime warranty, and nitrogen charged which prevents oil foaming, or air bubbles. This insures even, consistent performance. Bilsteins had a reputation for being on the firm side.

I've often thought I'd like to put Bilsteins in the rear, and a speed sensing shock, Edlebrock, Reflex etc up front.

danielh2

Anyone have any experience with vibrations in this model? I've had tires and wheels balanced several times to no avail. When approaching 65mph & above the whole truck starts to shake.
Has relatively new shocks - standard, nothing fancy. I'm wondering if it could be transmission, drive shaft or something else? Just started over the past year. Has about 65,000miles. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks

quadrunner500

I think I would have the alignment looked at, with an idea towards possibly increasing the positive caster. My hunch is nothing is really out of balance, but front end wear has changed the natural frequency. A bit more positive caster will make the steering a bit heavier, and increase damping.

oldharry

Check the ball joints, tie rods, and radius arm bushings. A unlikely but really troublesome shake at speed would be one of the "repair and air - fix a flat" type products in a tire. Brakes that do not fully release can also give a violent shimmy. You didn't say if it was 4X2 or 4X4, a bad axel u-joint in a 4X4 is another place to look. Don't overlook the motor mounts.

Ryan:
I don't have a good source for Bilsteins, I mostly sell NAPA/Monroe or KYB's. I stock some of the Monroe, and special order the KYB's from Stempf Co. in Minnesota.

Harry

obyone

are one of the best out there. Just that not too many people know about them. Pricing is very competitive too.