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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair



  • Still looking for any help anyone might be able to offer. I'll add these links though as a good start on figuring out your check engine light codes

    My code:
    P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - see our "articles" link for additional help with these generic check engine light codes

    An even better link

    P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - see our "articles" link for additional help with these generic check engine light codes

    this code refers to the front oxygen sensor on Bank 1. The heated circuit in the oxygen sensor decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0135.

    you will likely notice poor fuel economythe illumination of the MIL.

    A code P0135 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

    O2 Heater element resistance is high
    Internal short or open in the heater element
    O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
    open or short to ground in the wiring harness
    Possible Solutions
    Repair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors
    Replace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor)
    Quite simply, Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine that has the #1 cylinder
  • by the way, I'm gmail.
  • jamesjames Posts: 2
    Last night, i was attempting to lower my drivers side window. It didn't go down. I assumed it was due to it being frozen since it was snowing and very cold outside. Later while driving home, the window started to all down. The motor seems to be working but not connected?? Is the problem these clips I have read about?
  • I am hoping someone can help. I have 2002 Buick Rendevous. The interior lights will not shut off after you start the car. I have changed fuses without sucess. Currently running without dash board lights because cirucuit is same as interior lights. Any suggestions?????
  • Your "Body Control Module" (BCM) computer is probably failing. My GM dealer told me the 2002 is particularly susceptable. Cost me $480 to have him repair. The other symptom that you should be on the lookout for is failure of the interior lights and dash readouts. Also if you use the auto feature for the headlights they will not light, but you can override by turning your headlights to the "on" position. The 02 also had trouble with the fuel tank wiring harness and control module (again a computer part.) When it fails the fuel tank gauge always reads either full or empty. This is a more costly $700 repair.
  • 442455442455 Posts: 64
    In addition to the BCM being bad, you could also have a bad dimmer switch which is in the headlight control switch, a bad connection in the steering wheel controls, a short in the interior lamp voltage supply circuit, or the dome light on switch might be in the ON position.

    Most of these repairs require a scan tool in order to set up the BCM after repairs. Sounds like a trip to the dealer unless your dome switch is in the ON position.
  • I second the motion, if I had any money left after all the repairs on my 2002 then I could trade it in for a Toyota.
  • :lemon:

    Window regulator. Happened to me when my 02 was only 1 yr old. was about a $300 repair @ dealer.
  • SO I made a rookie mistake 2 years ago and bought an '02 RDV CX without researching it first. Boy have I paid for it!

    Anyway, I bought the car, and it didn't have an owner's manual. Today, getting it unstuck from snow, a light showed up that is like a little car/truck/SUV with a wrench on it. I'm looking everywhere trying to find out what the hell this means.

    I've seen this before, but it always went away after restarting the car. I've restarted it three or four times since it appeared and it comes back every time. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    > "little car/truck/SUV with a wrench on it.".

    This is Service Engine light. Only way to determine exact cause of the problem is to visit a qualified auto shop, and they use a code reader. Could be anything from plugged pollution item to a bad sensor.

  • Thanks! Is there a chance that there is a stuck code or something? Should I only worry if it's on for 48hrs or something?

    This car will be the death of me...
  • steverstever Posts: 52,571
    Lots of auto parts stores will pull the codes for you for free. It's not the same as a shop diagnosis but may give you some idea of what could be broken.

    This may help too:

    How To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online
  • Well now @ 310k km- used Barrs stop leak @ 250k km - Problem is she is overheating- rad fluid looks like pea soup bc I mixed in some regular antifreeze as well. Took it to the shop had a flush (4X) & fill with the green stuff (not dexcool) also replaced all the hoses & had pressure test- everything checked out. The next day she overheated- took it back to the shop & they said it will not overheat for them- 2 days later it overheated again- Bit the bullet & took it to GM dealer & had it tested top to bottom- would not overheat for them. (said it was probably a air bubble that worked its way thru)- However it's still running alot hotter than usual- 3/4 of the way on guage. Fans are working and she has the towing pkg. Afraid it will still overheat- Do you think I have clogged the rad with the Barrs "stop leak"? Is anyone else having or solved overheating problem? Any help would be great!
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    If they did a good job flushing it, I would think the radiator has been cleaned from the Barrs.
    My guess at this point is a thermostat that either isn't opening all the way, or has been clogged with Barrs and isn't letting flow through.

    If the flush was thorough and the coolant looks very clean, you can try one of two things. One - replace the thermostat. If it's easy to get to I would do this first.

    Two - try running with Prestone Super Radiator cleaner in there. I had a similar engine design in an Olds and it was neglected by prior owner. I ran the Prestone cleaner at almost 2x the concentration recommended, and for almost twice as long as recommended. Otherwise, follow the directions, it is added to WATER (which in some parts of the country you can't do right now). Then you'll have to drain and fill a few times to get it all out.
  • Same problem you describe.
    Same "non-resolution" fixes
    It functions as designed!
  • ealfordealford Posts: 15
    It is not in fact functioned as designed. GM put out a tech. bulletin
    in July of 2006 stating that there is a problem with the fuel guages on the 05' and 06' Rendezvous and there was no fix. I filed a complaint with Texas DOT and had a court hearing in which GM was ordered to fix the problem. I am awaiting the Texas DOT to enforce the decision. They say that GM will have so many days to fix the problem or come up with an alternative solution to avoid $10,000 a day penalties. When I get this resolved I will post it here.
  • jpiercejpierce Posts: 49
    My Buick is going on 7.5 years old (manufactured October 2001) and my battery just died after 1.4 years old. Alternator is pumping out 14.52 volts while running and the battery is 12 volts static. Just wondering if the alternator is working properly and the voltage rating is OK for charge and running the car. I suspect a cell went in the battery. Does anyone know the exact volts for charge from the alternator.


  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    I read the posts about the inaccurate gas gauge. We have a 2007 CXL purchased brand new, now with 20000 miles.

    The RDV does seem more sensitive to being parked at an incline than most vehicles. Like you guys, if I park nose-down on a slope, the gauge will show empty, and if I park nose-up it will show full.

    I'm not sure this qualifies as inaccurate though? First off, most every car will show a different level if on slopes. In some cars, you can get the gas gauge to move a bit just by taking a sharp turn fast, as the gas sloshes around.

    As soon as I begin driving my RDV after being parked on a slope, the gas gauge begins adjusting itself and is fully accurate in a minute or two. (It takes a min or two because of the "anti-sloshing" setup. If it corrected immediately, it would fluctuate every time you stopped at a red light, every time you turned, every time you accelerated. So there is a built in "slow response".)

    Are there other problems you guys have, or just the "inaccuracy" when parked on a slope???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Correct alternator voltage is between 13.5 and 14.5. Over or under that may indicate a problem.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I have an 06 rendezvous cx (3.5L FWD). It has 58K on it and has been trouble free (compared to the 99 chevy venture I had before it). The only warranty work I have had done is replacing the radio (two of the buttons would not light). The gas guage is not very accurate when it gets below 1/4 full. You can be driving around with it reading 1/4 tank and the next time you go to use the car the guage falls to empty and the light comes on (it used a 1/4 tank sitting in my driveway?). I usually fill it when the light goes on. However, the amount of fuel that I put in when the light goes has varied from 16 to 17.9 gallons (pretty scary on an 18 gallon tank). I have also had to replace the battery at the 2 year mark. There were some drainage issues there. The battery on my venture lasted 6 years. I went with an upgraded battery and have had no problems. The only other gripe I have is that gas mileage has only averaged 18-19. I used to get 22+ on my venture (3.4L same weight as Rendevous). Part of that I attribute to the change from 10%MTBE to 10% ethanol (85%ethanol gas vehicles get very bad gas mileage). Mostly the car has been great.

  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    Replacing a vehicle's radio because 2 buttons do NOT light up sounds like a "one of" situation. Hopefully, your replacement radio is much better.

    Replacing its battery could be a "one of" situation as well. For my other vehicle, I had to replace a battery within 9 month period. Seems my replacement battery had a defective cell and come winter time, the colder temps drove it way below normal operating cranks. My new battery has been working great for the last 2 years. Again, hopefully your defective battery is only a "one of" situation as well.

    Many say that Ethonal gas (even Ethonal mixed gas) gives less MPGs in a vehicle. In both my vehicles (3.4L and 4.3L AWD), ethonal gas gives them less MPGs. I also discovered that weather temp changes gives both my vehicles inconsistance mpgs as well. As a suggestion, go back to regular "unlead" gas, compare on approx same weather temp days and do some more long term trip comparisons. Thus, ensuring one is comparing "equal influences" on your vehicle as well. For my one vehicle, its MPG (on its DIC panel) will change from 21s to 25s - depending on weather days and ground speed (due to its "wind wall" design).

    For your inaccurate fuel guage, may I suggest you keep MORE then 1/3 level of gas in its tank. Any vehicle (especially some GM vehicles that have weaker in-take fuel pumps) need to have their gas levels above 1/3 tank. Thus, reducing the risk of "over stressing" and blowing its fuel pump. Astro/Safari vans are well known for blowing fuel pumps when driven too long below 1/3 gas tank levels. Also, below 1/3 tank levels tends to allow the pump to "suck up" more dirt / crud from bottom of its gas tank. Thus, adding even more "upward suction" stress on its pump. Not too sure this is true but makes sense to me. To me, keep above 1/3 levels is a good short term solution.

    For the long term solution, it sounds like your vehicle's gas guage needs to be removed, possibly cleaned and if necessary, replaced. Could be the tank's level sensor, defective float or perhaps a bad connection within its gas level wiring harness? Especially if its guage drops 1/4 level by simply idling a few short minutes within your driveway. Perhaps its a simple "bad ground" or loose connection within its wiring as well. Its rare but sometimes, its float sensor becomes "too logged". My dad's old Ford was like that. Its gas guage was empty when its needle feel below 1/4 tank. No red warning light either. When its gas guage needle feel below 1/4, it was out of gas. For your inconsistant gas guage needle situation, I'd get a specialized shop to fix it. Especially if you don't like running more then 1/3 gas tank levels.

    Hope this helps...

  • I know this sounds strange but I forgot to take pictures of my RDV when I had a small fender bender. My daughter is afraid to drive the car as she thinks it is 'fragile' and i have assured that more times than not people simply walk away when something small happens. She wants a small toyota and I want her to use the RDV until she graduates.

    Pictures with a little story will be welcomed!!!!!

    Thanks in advance
    A Dad
  • Before you go to a dealer, you might want to check glass specialty shops. After a chain auto repair shop told me there weren't any regulators in North America, I went to the local glass shop. They had me in and out in under two hours. I don't remember the price bu I don't believe it was $300.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186

    As you correctly ascertain, a mid size crossover is safer than any compact or midsize car in an accident. Size and weight make a huge difference, despite all of the crumple zones and airbags small cars have these days.

    A Dad
  • I wish I would have pictures of mine when I got it (I rebuilt mine and have it with a salvage title). But I will say even with a hard front end hit your better off in the RDZ. The only downfall to it is the raised center of gravity, however, with the suspension there is very minimal body roll going through turns, and during winters even with a FWD version the increased weight and ground clearance help get through most of the unplowed streets.
  • Kim50Kim50 Posts: 1
    I am having problems fixing this car. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump and the car still shuts off while you are driving. Then it will start back up and drive and then shuts off. Sometimes you have to sit and wait a minute before it will start back up. I noticed it was doing after I would feel the gas tank up, but now it is doing it all the time. My mechanic is stumped. I took it to the dealer and they don't know what is wrong with it. Has anyone had this problem and how did you fix it?
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    The fact that it's intermittent points to "spark" problems not "fuel", generally speaking. If it does it often enough that you can re-create it in your driveway, you should be testing for spark right after the failure. Could be: ign coils, ign module, ECM, CPS. Some auto parts stores will test coils and modules for free, after that you'd need to hook up a monitor and record data as you drive around to see what happens just before it dies.
  • I had an older oldmobile that did the same thing. It sounds like it could be Vapor Lock in the gas tank, have you tried a new gas cap? That solved my problem when I got a new cap.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,643
    Sounds like it may be 2 problems. For the no start issue after fuel (or other 5 min shutoff when warm) I have never heard of a fix (many have seen the problem though). When that happens on our Pontiac I just hold the key in start position much longer then usual and it will work.

    For the stalling while driving there was an issue with a ignition relay on some of the vous dealing with high resistance contacts. Replacing resovlves the problem.
  • Wheel bearings. :mad: I replaced the right rear wheel bearings just before Christmas (2008) and I just had the car towed back to the dealership today for the left front wheel bearings. It's 2006 Rendezvous 58000 Kilometers (36000 miles).
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