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Chevrolet Avalanche Accessories & Modifications



  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    not be as rugged as the Sierra!
  • ygmnygmn Posts: 179
    I just epoxied it and it seems find now...I blame myself I did not see the tab and I kinda forced the top light off...I than heard the crack...

    Easy to get at lights when you remove the top one..two pins lift up then the whole assemlby is loose no tools required..pretty nifty!
  • I know the Poron ultrasonic systems for backup alerts have gotten good word of mouth here, but I'm wondering if anyone has used/seen a GuardianAlert unit in action. It uses microwave radar technology and comes in several forms for mounting, one of which is a unit that fits into the hitch receiver.
  • ygmnygmn Posts: 179
    Anyone think about changing all them bulbs out with the HID convertor kit???

    The low beam bulb is a 9006 and the high beam is a 9011. I have never heard of the 9011 but that is what it said on it. ANyone see what the foglight bulbs are?
  • My Av came with the EchoMaster ( system. I like how it worked, so I bought one and installed it on my wife's car...three days too late. But that's another story. The system uses two or four ultrasonic transceivers for the bumper, a logic unit, and a beeper for the cab. I figured the ones you have to look at distract from actually looking in back.

    The folks are friendly, though were a little perplexed that an owner wanted to buy one. Evidently most of these are installed by car dealers. He said Avs are popular vehicles for alarms since it's so hard to see out back.

    No connection to karbiz except a satisfied customer.
  • I have asked the following question to GM and will keep you posted of thier response if any,or if anyone here knows please respond. Regarding GM Parts Direct, Is part no.12497862 (steps and roof rack)
    the same products that are installed at the factory (if so ordered)? Also do the steps in this package include all mounting hardware and is it a bolt on application or is drilling required?
    Does the roof rack come with all necessary hardware for mounting and a template for drilling holes?
    Their prices seem to be awesome however its seems shipping and handling is an expensive deal.
  • fastz28fastz28 Posts: 19
    How much is it for the Echomaster?
  • ygmnygmn Posts: 179
    Try using their price at your local dealer and see if they will lower it...Haggle with them..

    From my understanding of the roof rack which I still have in the box because I did not let dealer install yet is that it takes a special tool to insert the threaded inserts after drilling the holes.

    You might want to check into that I am not 100% sure
  • I posted this in the problems forum, but I think it belongs here, too. Help!

    I am hearing a flapping (popping?) sound coming from my windshield. I did install the deflector, but did not install the extra 'tape' along the windshield moldings. The instructions were a bit vague, and I was concerned about fooling with the moldings. Well, I had no noise while I was keeping the speed at 50-55. At 65-80, though, I am hearing it a lot.

    Has anyone done this? Is it OK? Any help or hints would be appreciated. (Just seems a little kludgy to me, but if it works...) Thanks!
  • ygmnygmn Posts: 179
    You must install the two sided tape...It is easy get you a torx headed driver and follow directions...Them GM people are getting smart!!!

    I will tell you a few steps though:

    Mark windshield with wax pencil or something that will draw on the glass and can then be washed off.

    Open both front doors.

    Gently pull out the weatherstripping...I suggest you coat it with some sort of protectant first like 303 or Vinylex to help lubricate it.

    Remove the side molding by removing I think 4-6 torx headed screws..the bottom one is a pain since the door is very close their I used a bit and ratchet..

    Then clean glass with careful to leave your wax pencil line.

    Apply sticky tape the entire length leaving about 1/8" gap with top moulding.

    Put side moulding back on and re-assemble..

    You should not have any parts left over like when you rebuild an engine..LOL

    Good luck!
  • ygmn - Thanks! I am still a little concerned about doing this, but your instructions help. Questions:

    - Does the tape apply directly to the glass?
    - What holds in the weatherstripping? (Are there holes, or a lip on some kind?)

    I will attempt it sometime in the next couple of weeks, and will post the results. Thanks again.
  • ygmnygmn Posts: 179
    Tape sticks to windshiel and the moulding when you re-attach the moulding...

    The weather stripping is kinda squeezed into a clips or be gentle and spray with lube so it doesn't hang up and you tear it..

    you can do it it is not hard to patient and you should do fine.
  • The setup runs about $245. Just call them and tell them the vehicle you have. They are very friendly and helpful.

    Having this even got me a few $ off my insurance premium.
  • I bought the Lund bug guard (Exterminator???) for $54 at NAPA for my 2002 Avalanche. It is Lund part number 18099 in smoke. It appears to use the factory mounting holes in the hood (came with five square "nuts" to insert in the square holes in the hood and mounting screws.

    I've gone ahead and installed it but around 60 to 70 MPH I'm getting some noise that seems to be coming from the windshield? I've read about the Chevy kit coming with tape and following the instructions - but no tape, and no instructions.

    Should I call Lund, dealer - or can someone share the directions (I read the summary above).

    I love my Avalanche, took delivery about a month ago and it is just awesome. I set up a website - it's not commercial no ads or anything - I'm just a big fan and an owner.

  • ygmnygmn Posts: 179
    The summary above should cover it.

    I threw out my original instruction sheet from GM sorry.

    Try Lund and see what they say.
  • Does anybody know if this is a class III or IV receiver? I want to get a draw bar and ball, I have nothing to tow but want to have it just in case. Any ideas on a brand name and also approximate drop down hieght for all purpose towing ,also ball sizes. I know this is a direct application for every trailering situation but I thought it would be a shame to have a heavy duty receiver and no balls,excuse me, BALL! THANKS
  • ygmnygmn Posts: 179
    I am not sure on the class but it takes a 2" x 2" square rfeceiver.

    I set up the ball so it is about 17-19" from the ground. This seems to work best for me on most apps. There are some different trailors that may require different hieghts.

    Also the Z66 has that level thingy fro towing and is pretty cool.
  • I base that conclusion on the towing capacity out of the box. A stock 4X4 3.73 rear-end Av can tow 7,100 pounds out of the box. However a Class III receiver hitch is only rated for a max load of 5,000 pounds and a tounge weight of 500 pounds. With the 4.10 rear-end the same Av can pull 8,100 pounds. That means if you really did put an 8,100 pound trailer on the Av and it had a Class III hitch you'd rip it off!

    A Class IV receiver hitch with a 2" X 2" opening is rated for a max load of 10,000 pounds and a tounge weight of 1,000 pounds. It is possible, although unlikely that the Avalanche has a Class V heavy duty reciever hitch which would allow for trailers up to what the 2500 series can handle. The part I don't know is does the 2500 get it's own hitch or not.

    You can read more about it here:

  • The question came up a while back, but I never saw an answer. I've looked all through the manual and can not find out what bulb type the fogs are. Printed on the bulb is "132 +38".

    Anyone know? Thanks!
  • I recently added a molded bug deflector colored to match Summit White, black head light covers, black aluminum billet grill, Z71 billet hitch plug, and a K&N FIPK Generation II Kit.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    those headlight covers off every time you drive after dark?
  • ygmnygmn Posts: 179
    Anyone notice bits of black carbon building up on the right rear lower gray cladding near the exhaust?

    Did anyone install an exhaust tipto make the tail pipe protrude more out the side?

    I hate a dirty Avy!
  • The headlight covers stay on, so when driving at night I put on my fog lights which enable me to have enough light to drive and others to see me. The light from the head lamps is still shines through the covers, however the light is dim, therefore the fog lights must stay on for me.
  • Will this fit on the AV or are the pipes
    bigger on the EXT.
  • I called my dealer to ask them why there seemed to be a discrepency between the side steps offered on the website. He said that the individual steps(with the BVE option) are Tahoe steps. So I e-mailed

    <<I was surfing through your site looking for accessories for my Avalanche and may have discovered a problem. My local dealer in California could not find the following part number 15718561 & 15718562 for the Avalanche he said they belong to the Tahoe.

    Is this correct?

    BTW what does "BVE" stand for?>>


    Thank you for the "Heads Up" The part somehow carried over from the Tahoe catalog
    12497718 Running board plug. is the correct kit for this vehicle
    BVE is an option code for the factory installed running boards

    thanks >>

    So I wasn't going crazy! As of 9:30am PST they had not fixed the website. I hope this helps every one out.

  • I am looking for mud guards and a light bar for the roof of my AV just like what is shown on the truck's brochure.
  • You can go to GM Parts Direct. Here is a good thread on the subject at in the community section under Avalanche Accessories & Modifications.
  • ygmnygmn Posts: 179
    GMparts Direct.

    They install very easy but you will want to remove the tires to make it easier. Also the clearance of going over logs and curbs gets reduced because the Flaps tend to hit logfs after going over in forward and the noise it makes is they got ripped off!
  • Where can I an exhaust tip that makes a nice deep sound and will fit my Av that has a 3" tailpipe. Everywhere I checked so far does not have what I am looking for. Also, I want it with set screws not weld-on.
  • frulefrule Posts: 82
    I just installed the moulded mudflaps from .With shipping,the total cost was $65.00.They fit perfectly and are a perfect match to the cladding.They are WELL worth having.
    IMO,there is no need to remove the wheels.Turning the fronts makes plenty of room.The innermost screw on the rear is tight for clearance.Instead of drilling the hole in the cladding at that position,I took a small nail,held it in a visegrip,heated with a propane torch and easily popped thru for a starter hole.
    It helps to have a "stubby" phillps screwdriver or an angle driver to screw in that screw.The rest are accessible.It took about an hour for the install.This is definitely easy enough for a novice.
This discussion has been closed.