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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair



  • Recently out speedometer stopped working and our car revs high going up hills. Can any one tell me WHERE to look!?!? :mad:
  • Probably two different issues, unless you're using cruise control to go up the hills.
    Is your car a manual or automatic?
  • I have a 02 Hyundi Elentra with 83k

    The engine light came on yesterday
    Any ideas ??
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,459
    Tighten your gas cap; a loose cap leads to a non-pressurized tank and can cause the check engine light to come on as it thinks the emissions system has somehow failed. If it doesn't go away after a couple of days (it won't go away immediately), go to Autozone or another shop that reads the engine's trouble codes for free/cheap. The trouble code will provide more info about what's happening.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,933
    Another common cause for this is a failed O2 sensor; a computer scan would detect that.
  • While attempting (badly) to change the passenger side headlight bulb, the clip that holds it in place came off, and apparently the tab holding it in broke. Am I now faced with having to replace the entire assembly in order to have a functioning headlight? (or can I duct tape it in lol). :sick:

  • my headlight are not even! one is close and looking down and the other is far and looking up. how can i fix it?
  • park infront of a garage, turn on your headlights and adjust em that way. its the best way to make sure that they are even
  • no cruise control. its a manual. :sick:
  • anyone have a rough estimate how much a 7500 mi servicing would cost at a hyundai dealership?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,933
    There's a lot of variation there. For example, some dealers don't charge for oil changes for people who buy the car there (mine does that). Others charge for extra services that are not called for under the manufacturer's service schedule (mine tries to do that too). So what I recommend you do is look in your owner's manual for what services are required at 7500 miles--shouldn't be much more than oil/filter change, some inspections, and tire rotation if you want to do that (tire rotation is not required by Hyundai), and then call the service department of your local dealer and see what they charge, and ask what it covers. If you have more than one dealer near you, it might pay to check prices at each of them. You can also have the servicing done anyplace you choose, but be sure to use OEM-spec parts including the oil and oil filter
  • Hello everyone first post here, My daughter has a 2001 Elantra with no heat. The blower is working fine, No leaks anywhere, I've replaced the Thermostat a few months ago. I just sat in it for 10 minutes with the engine running and it just blew cold air. I popped the hood and felt all the radiator hoses, there was one coming out of where the thermostat is located and it was cold while the other two were very hot. I noticed a sensor in the thermostat housing, Does anyone know what this is? Any advice would be appreciated.

  • I have a 2003 Elantra with a manual tranny. The original clutch lasted about 85K miles. The second clutch lasted 4 days. The third clutch lasted a month. If I had read this the first thing I would think is that the mechanic doesn't know what he is doing. You will have to trust me on this, but that is not the case. If it runs he is licensed and certified to repair it, he has his own business, and has been recruited to teach Mechanics classes at a major university. When he replaced the first clutch, the first thing he told me was, "That is a bad design". When the second clutch went out he warranteed his work and the parts guy warranteed the clutch, but they both told me they did not believe that the replacement part was at fault. So I began an internet search and what I am finding is not pretty. I have found countless stories like mine, a law firm that is contemplating a class action, etc. Don't believe me, just Google Hyundai clutch problems and start reading. Nobody seems to have a solution though. A couple websites recommend removing the fluid flow restrictor in the slave cylinder that is there presumably for people that don't know how to drive manuals to shift smoother. However it allows clutch slippage every time you shift by restricting the flow of fluid out of the slave cylinder. However, I do not believe that this in itself is the problem. I should say that in all cases when the clutch failed it was it the wear pad that just disintegrated.

    So I am wondering if anyone reading this may have any additional insight into what is going on with Hyundai clutches?
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    Well, if the first one lasted 85k miles, then I'd say it's not the design that's at fault. Nor is it the driver. So that leaves either the replacement parts, or the guy who replaced them. It may be that there's some oddity in the design that Hyundai service departments know about but your otherwise well-trained mechanic doesn't. Try using to find out if there's been a TSB (technical service bulletin) on the subject.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I have to agree with the above post. Most of the clutch problems in Hyundai were related to the Tiburon, not the Elantra. If the original clutch lasted 85K, and the others are not lasting weeks, either something is being installed wrong, or the parts being used are incorrect for the application. All manufacturers will occasionally make a design change during a production run. A clutch change would be unusual, but not impossible.

    Just this weekend I did a brake job on a car where three different wheel cylinders were used in the same model year. So, it could be that the parts you are getting are not correct for your specific Elantra. If the first one went 85K, there is not a design problem.
  • 1. Why didn't you take it to a dealer? Should have still been covered by the warranty, I think.

    2. Did he replace the clutch plate and the flywheel? Did he inspect the flywheel for damage?

    I have trouble believing that a bad design allowed for a clutch to go 85k miles and then suddenly only a month or a couple of days. Something changed on your car that is causing you not to get another 85k. There are two possibilities as I see it.

    1. After 85k, something wore out causing your clutch to wear out. It's something the mechanic hasn't recognized as causing the problem and still needs replaced or fixed. It's causing your clutch to burn out prematurely.

    2. After 85k your clutch wore out (seems premature to me, but I'm not an expert) and your mechanic did a bad install or had a bad part.

    Since you trust your mechanic, then I would guess it's option #1. Which means I would take it to the dealer. There could be something that is specific to Hyundais and the mechanic just doesn't know about it.

    BTW, I have a 2002 Elantra and replaced the clutch and flywheel at 130k or so. I had the dealer do the work. It was costly, but I haven't had any issues since.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I checked all the TSBs for this model and year and found no mention of any clutch issues.

    I'll throw my hat into the ring here and say that the failure of the clutch is just not knowing the proper way to install it OR sourcing defective parts.
  • Thanks for the replies. However, I have to say that if you are not Hyundai service managers you could be, :-) they were almost verbatum as to what the service manager told me. That or there is a lot of kool aid being passed around. There seems to be some mis-information as well. One reply asked why wan't it covered under warranty. Hyundai only warranties their clutches for 12K miles. Yes on a 100K mile warranty only 12k on the clutch. And as I said before one only needs to Google and you can find countless hours of reading with the same story repeated over and over. The first clutch lasted a little while, then the second, third and so on went out relativley quickly with many of these being dealer serviced. Are all Hyundai clutches bad; no or there would be many more class actions, but where there appears to be as much smoke as I am finding something is going on. I even located an independent review of the 2004 Elantra where it said that at 2K miles they were already experiencing clutch issues and that the clutch was "most likely under designed".
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    Thanks for the replies. However, I have to say that if you are not Hyundai service managers you could be, they were almost verbatum as to what the service manager told me. That or there is a lot of kool aid being passed around.

    Actually, bad_clutch, the reason that I said what I did is that (a) I'm trained as a mechanical engineer, (b) I have a lot of experience working in auto restoration with British and German cars, both of which have certain characteristics that only a specialist would be familiar with, and (c) I've also had otherwise very qualified mechanics thoroughly screw up two Mercedes and a BMW because they weren't familiar with the torque specs for certain critical fasteners. The last time it happened, it cost me $600 to undo the damage.

    Another point: if the clutch is so poorly designed, why did the first one last 85k? Depending on driving conditions, that sounds about right to me, especially if there's a significant amount of stop-and-go driving in hilly surroundings. The original clutch on my '99 Civic is starting to go after 139k, which I figure is excellent, but it's had mostly highway miles. My '97 Civic's clutch was showing significant wear before 60k, mostly in town.

    You'll find that almost any vehicle warranty will exclude "wear items," whose longevity is extremely dependent on the conditions of operation and the skill of the operator. Brake pads are one example of such wear items--clutches are another. Hyundai isn't unique here. Manufacturers differ as to what's considered a wear item.

    So the real question is, assuming that the replacement parts were made by the same people, why didn't they last? Here again, there are some possible issues--were the parts the correct ones? Were they third-party aftermarket, or factory parts? And is there something about their installation that is different from that on other vehicles--something your mechanic may have missed?

    Now, did you actually want help, or were you just baiting those of us who took the time to try to answer your question?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    That's not really fair, bad clutch, with all due respect. Some of our members here know a lot about cars, and we did pour through the TSBs for you, line by line, looking for evidence. It's not like we are pulling things out of thin air.

    Some car companies won't warranty a clutch PERIOD. It's quite common to see "clutch" specifically excluded. Check out the Chrysler "Lifetime" warranty and see what it says about clutches.

    Don't know for sure, but so far I'm not inclined to condemn Hyundai.

    With more or different evidence I might change my mind.

    Why not give Hyundai a shot at putting in a clutch. If it holds up, you have your answer, and if it doesn't, you can harass Hyundai to warranty their repair work. Yeah, it costs more but at this point why keep doing the same thing that isn't working for you?

    Visiting Host
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    Why not give Hyundai a shot at putting in a clutch. If it holds up, you have your answer, and if it doesn't, you can harass Hyundai to warranty their repair work.

    An excellent suggestion. I had a bad experience with a Honda carburetor being "rebuilt" by an independent mechanic who wasn't familiar with Honda's very odd design (a three-barrel Keihin carb that combined the worst features of a conventional carb and the worst features of an SU type) back in the early '80s. If I had gone to a dealership, I would have had more leverage when the problem recurred.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    If I had gone to a dealership, I would have had more leverage when the problem recurred.

    Or, stephen, the problem may have never recurred. :)
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    Or, stephen, the problem may have never recurred

    Fair enough. In any event, the point stands. I hope bad_clutch finds a solution, but I'm done trying to help. There's no point--his mind's made up already.

    Over and out.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,459
    I'd add that every dealer I've ever used has warranted their repairs for at least 1 year or 12K miles, so if the clutch problem is indeed recurring so often, further repairs would be covered. As an example, my wife's '01 Elantra had the rear defrost switch go, it was replaced by a dealer. 10 months later it went again and was replaced free/under warranty.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • I'm a new member ... what a great forum! My issue is that the passenger side headlights lights, both hi and lo beam (but not the running lights) have stopped working on my '02 Elantra - the drivers side works fine. I reviewed the thread from Nov. 2007 (#2892 +/-) and have checked all fuses that seemed appropriate in both the engine compartment fuse block and the interior one under the ashtray. When checking voltage on the lo beam socket, I get a reading of 5.6v, not the 12.1v that I would have expected and I measured directly off the battery. I've yet to pursue the defective relay angle. This "one-sided" issue strikes me as really weird (tho I don't claim by any means to be an auto mechanic). Both "jlflemmons" and "doohickie" have offered some great help on similar issues (tho the link to the electrical diagram is no longer functional, at least on my computer) and I do appreciate the link to Hyundai WebTech, doohickie, should I need to use it to resolve this. Any assistance in nailing this issue down would be most appreciated.

  • I own a '02 Hyundai Elantra with about 120,000 miles on it. I keep reading the recommendation to replace the timing belt at 60K miles? What's with that? I'm 52 and have only had one car in my life time that needed it's timing belt replaced (and I've pushed a bunch of cars to 150,000 miles and beyond.) Is there some rationale out there?? Is Hyundai known for notoriously poor timing belts that break prematurely or what? I must have been lucky so far! That's got to be a repair of $500 or more ... ouch! Jim
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    Timing belts on all cars can wear out. Some cars are returning to timing chains.

    A friend's son has an Audi and he is looking at $3800 +/- because his timing belt broke.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,933
    Yes, you have been lucky so far. If the belt breaks, the engine is toast. So you can continue to count on Lady Luck, or get the belt replaced because if it breaks and you are looking at a repair that will cost far more than $500 (although you can probably find a shop that will do the job for less). Up to you.

    BTW, Hyundai is not the only manufacturer that recommends replacing rubber timing belts at 60k miles.
  • To restate the issue, your Hyundai clutch fails, you have it replaced and the new clutch fails soon after, and repeat. Don't feel bad you are in company with many, many others. If you do a little Googling you will find this info in several places, but here is one of them.

    Do as it says, remove the restrictor plate and through it just as far as you can. My mechanic talked to both a local import specialist and the clutch tech at the local Hyundai dealer. As soon as he said clutch problem both of then told him to do exactly this before he even asked about it. So the dealers must know of this issue but it is doubtful they would tell you about it if you did ask. They will tell you that you were hard on the clutch and then replace it, but they probably will not tell you that they completely flushed the hydraulic clutch system to remove whatever particles are in it. My mechanic surmises that whatever it was (I found a TSB from an earlier year warning about a condition that caused a restriction in the hydraulic line from grease used during assembly) worked its way to the restrictor plate where it ultimately lodged. This kept the clutch from completely engaging but not enough slippage so that the engine would rev. And this would occur every time the clutch was let out. He said that when he went to remove the plate something white and mostly round shot out and hit him in the face. Unfortunately he couldn't find whatever it was. My money is on whatever they used on the threads of the hydraulic line fittings. Also after removing the plate the clutch became much more positive and felt like a real clutch. Prior to removing the plate every time you tried taking off in 1st gear the clutch would chatter so bad that the entire car would shake. He did not even have to replace clutch #3, just removed the plate, no more chatter or shaking.

    Last but not least I will stand by my assertion of poor design. Anytime you attempt to take control of clutch engagement away from the operator it's a bad idea. If you can't shift a standard get an automatic.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    I think it all points to yor mechanic not knowing what to do on this particular model of car for this particular service work.

    He can be an excellent mechanic but still do something incorrectly when performing work on something he is not familiar with.
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