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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair



  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    How many miles on the vehicle, and did you do inner and out CV joints, or just one end? Vibrations tend to come from the inner, and will cease as soon as you let off the throttle.

    Where did you see the shimmy with the tires off? If you saw the rotor wobbling, and you already changed the rotors themselves, the hub must be bent or you have a really bad bearing!
  • the car has 137,000 miles. i have changes the passenger cvj joint and not the drivers side. i just changed both bearings and it still has the vibration. when i jacked it up both sides had a wobble more on the passenger side than on the driver side. it was it really a wobble more a vibration when i got around 60-80 mph.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    If both inner and outer CV joints were changed, try pulling the wheel, caliper, and rotor off the passengers side. With the drivers side on the ground, apply the hand brake, chock the rear wheels and put the car in gear with the engine running and slowly let off the foot brake. This should let the passengers side axle turn at idle speed. Observe the hub and note any "wobble" to determine if the hub itself has been bent.

    With all that you have changed, I cannot think of anything else that would cause a wobble in the drive train.
  • My 2010 Elantra is only 3 months old, with <2,000 miles. Increasingly I've noticed that the car idles roughly, with a kind of vibration or slight shaking, when it's first started. This resolves once the car has warmed up.

    A much more subtle problem while driving, which may or may not be related, is harder to describe: something seems slightly uneven. My first thought was to check the tire pressure to see if one tire was much lower than the others, which turned out not to be the case. Could the wheels really need rebalancing on a car this new? Or is this something in the engine?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I would get it to the dealer and have them check it out. You may have a bad injector leaking down. Considering Hyundai has been using this engine for 10 years, I wouldn't be too concerned. Lot's of history and knowlege on this one, and a very good warranty, too.

    Could be something as simple as a loose plug wire, or such. Have you seen a drop in fuel economy?

    Just fixed an Accent (which is a totally different engine) the other day where one of the ignition coils failed. 5 minute repair, covered under warranty. I mention this because the problem first started similar to your symptoms. Weak spark caused the engine to run rough on first start (rich condition) and idle rough once warmed up.

    Then the coil totally died and became very obvious!
  • Thanks for your reply. Hard to say if mileage is affected because the car is so new, but I suspect not; I get about 27 mpg in a combination of city/highway driving.

    I figured a trip to the dealer is inevitable, but I want to know as much as I can before I go in.
  • tommieztommiez Posts: 11
    My 2010 sedan is only 6 months old and my right front passenger side wheel covering is misshapen already and full of scrapes. Can the plastic be molded and/or hammered back into shape and what to do about the scrapes. Thanks for your feedback.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,906
    You could paint it, but your best bet would be to find a replacement, e.g. on eBay or a store that specializes in wheel covers. You could check the price from the dealer, but it's likely to be pricey.
  • jacktbjacktb Posts: 41
    See my post and replies on this subject message #3170 dated 5.11.09. I did an internet search for the glass and used the help of the forum to replace myself. It was not difficult. Good luck
  • jacktbjacktb Posts: 41
    PS: Here is the site I used to get the replacement glass:
  • jayessjayess Posts: 59
    Thanks jack I see they have the mirror I need but am unclear if it also includes the back plate with heating coils and wiring and if it's a seamless replacment. Also found parts geek dot com with the entire mirror housing for $50 plus postage. For a few extra pesos I might just get the whole piece, am thinking it might make for an easiet install since I'm concerned with the backing plate coming out again.
  • Update to problem reported in post #3350: Left the car at a dealership overnight so they could start it cold. Not only did they claim not to notice any unevenness while driving, but they also didn't acknowledge the much more pronounced throbbing on starting up. More precisely, the mechanic's report (and service manager's comment in person) amounted to: The tests didn't find anything. The computer doesn't show any problem, therefore you don't have one. The service mgr. then suggested I buy a higher-octane fuel (for a 4-cyl. car) even though he conceded that couldn't have caused the problem I brought it in for.
  • jacktbjacktb Posts: 41
    edited September 2010
    Yes it is just the mirror glass. Replacement is easy, just follow this video (minus the part about installing the LED kit). You can remove the mirror from the housing by prying the edges with even pressure on one or both sides with your hands. It pops out and snaps back in when you are done with a controlled jab to the center. --Jack - - Ecom%2Facecart%2Fbin%2Fshop%2Ecgi%3Faction%3Dview%26itemID%3Dledmirrordiy%26cate- - - %3D070000000&feature=player_embedded
  • How do I change the thermostat on my 2000 Hyundai Elantra GLS.
  • I just recently (as of last week) purchased a new elantra. When I asked about changing the oil myself they mentioned to always use a hyundai oil filter as "other brands" do not work because of oil pressures and sealing issues resulting in excess vibrations. If you have an oil filter other than a hyundai brand I would first do an oil change with a new filter before sending it to the dealer--could be the issue and save you some $$
  • My Elantra has 150000 and I change the oil every 3-6K and I have never used a Hyundai Filter
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    edited November 2010
    Well, your dealer is right, kinda. There are aftermarket filters out there that are of similar construction (Wix Premium, for one) but he isn't kidding about the quality of the Hyundai filter, either. The steel used is heavier, there is more filter media, the seal is more robust, etc. Now, a filter such as the Wix will work fine, but I have found that the cost of the Hyundai filter is only slightly higher than the premium Wix filter, and you get the added advantage of, in the event of an engine problem, being able to show the dealer that even though you were doing your own oil changes, you were using the genuine Hyundai filter.

    I have two Hyundai that use the same filter. I buy them ten at a time from the local dealer and get a discount. Actually costs less than the Wix, but about double the Fram (which is pure junk in this application.) Don't take my word for it. Cut open a Hyundai filter and a Fram filter then decide which one you want protecting your engine.

    BTW, at one time a few years ago, Delco made a filter for the Hyundai 2.0L Elantra that was a dead ringer for the OEM Hyundai filter. A couple of years ago Delco changed the design and the replacement was not nearly as well made.
  • My 2007 Elantra produces a 'clunk' sound when going over bumps / rough roads at a lower speed. When I took the vehicle in for the Timing Belt change @ 62,000 miles.

    Pep Boys mentioned to me something about Strut joints or mountings being loose -- but not dangerous to drive. Could someone tell me what that means and the cost to fix???
  • jayessjayess Posts: 59
    We have an '06 Elantra GLS with 43.5K miles - purchased it in March 09 (26.3K miles) the original 5/60 warranty is set to expire in early January. SInce my daughter has it at school - and since the plan is to have it for a loooong time - I'm erring on the side of caution with scheduled maintenence. Probably could get by with letting it go but I'm planning to replace the timing belt at the end of the month. My dealer will do just the belt for 318$ or 400$ for the timing and the 3 other belts which sounds like the plan. And I'll save 50$ additional with their web coupon.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,173
    Best to do this at the same time since the engine will be open...have heard they'd have to do the same tear down to replace it also so why not do it all & save the labor costs. Just a suggestion.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    I agree on doing the water pump at the same time., but I'd do it at the first timing belt change north of 100K miles. Water pumps should be good for 140K miles +/-.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • jayessjayess Posts: 59
    edited December 2010
    Giving him the opening to pick my pocket, I did ask if that's something they do recommend for exactly that reason it just being parts since everything is open. The service advisor said that they typically don't unless since theyusually don't see much of a problem with the water pumps. Of course he could be setting himself up for a bigger payday down the road, but given the mileage on that I'll probably just roll the dice - or buy the extended warranty!
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,173
    Since I usually keep my cars between 7 to 8 years, I'd just have it done in this situation...I don't like surprises and need my car to work, period. Come next month when I retire, I'll probably keep the same opinion...I like my rides properly maintained. And since my total mileage will probably be cut about 66%, my current Civic will be with me well into the next decade, G-d willing. Plan to keep my $ growing in the retirement accounts, thank you very much. This could actually be my last car if my spinal issues get much worse, which makes it that much more important to keep everything running tip top.

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • jayessjayess Posts: 59
    You have a valid point since the plan is to keep it in the stable for some time to come. Of course I can also purchase the Hyundai extended warranty from my dealer which covers the pump and darn near everything else. Originally they wanted 1499$, for Platinum - when I asked how much just for powertrain, which would make it as though we were the original owner, said 1349$ and then 'tell you what, we'll give you Platinum for that price' so now I have about 4.5 weks to mull it over, that's when the original 5/60 expires. Decisions decisions
  • kjcolekjcole Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 elantra with 90000 miles on it. I have been having an issue with the transmission slipping between 3rd and 4th gear. It doesn't happen all the time. I had the problem once before at 52000 miles and took it to the dealer. They told me that the transmission needed serviced. I had bought the car with 40000 on it and it had a 12000 mile bumper to bumper warranty on it and I was just outside of it. I argued with them that it should've been serviced before I had bought the car and shouldn't need a service after just over 12000 miles on it so they serviced it for free. That seemed to fix the problem. I know that hyundai recommends changing the fluid every 30000 miles. I have had the fluid changed here recently and I am still having the problem. It's not everyday and it has only happened twice since I've had the fluid changed. My question is should I go ahead and change the filter. It is a pain in the butt to get to and it looks like it has never been changed. I already have the filter because I thought it was going to be like a normal car and have the transmission pan on the bottom of the transmission not the side and almost impossible to get to. Thank you for your help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    You might want to check with a reliable Hyundai service department because even though the aftermarket parts houses show (and sell) a filter for the 2005 Elantra 4spd, my 2005 GT didn't have a filter. That's why you change the fluid every 30K; no filter.
  • itc55itc55 Posts: 3
    Just picked up my 2011 GLS last week. I was completely happy with it until I discovered that the carpeting in the back (where the flooring rolls up to meet the back seat) is very poorly fitted. The carpeting bulges out across the entire length of the seat to the point that it even wrinkles slightly -- it's not adhered to the seat or floor surface at all. If I push against the carpeting, it seems to have a full inch of air between it and the bottom of the seat structure. I can press it back so that it hugs the floor and the seat, but then it just pops back out when I release it.

    Anyway, I took it to the service center today and they insist that all 2011 Elantras are like this. "It's a solid fitted piece that we can't really do anything about."

    Everything else in the car is so tight that this really bothers. Of course, the dealer is sold out of the 2011 and I can't personally verify that "all Elantras are made this way" since there are none on the lot. Any other owners out there notice this? Is this really a universal problem?
  • I don't have a 2011, but this seems like the dealer just threw whatever he had in there. I could be wrong though...definitely check out another 2011 at another dealership if possible.
  • itc55itc55 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply perno.

    Just to be clear for anybody else that comes across this -- I'm not talking about the floor mats. It's the actual carpet upholstery that is bulging up. Where the carpeting meets the back seat -- it looks like a kid who's wearing his dad's suit. Just doesn't fit right.

    Looks like a manufacturing error to me. But, dealer says it's "normal."
  • This post might better have been in the 2012 Elantra section. They never changed the heading to 2011 when it became apparent that the new Elantra was coming out as a 2011. Anyway - your problem appears to be evidence of shoddy assembly as has been evidenced in the 2011 Sonata board reports as rattles and squeaks. I plan on buying in the spring and this sort of thing gives me pause. Come on Alabama - do better and make us all proud of made in the USA.
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