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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair



  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Mechanic is not right. This is a cable actuated shifter and is adjustable. I have seen the same issue on other cable shifters and it really isn't that hard to fix.

    Keep pushing on them. The Elantra has always had a very nice, easy shifter.
  • I was having the same problem! Thanks for the help!
  • My Elantra is due for its second oil change. Getting over to the dealership for this has turned into a living hell for many reasons (distance, timing, accessibility...etc.)....'and I'm fed up with contacting them any further in this specific regard.

    Soooo, I'm seriously considering getting an oil change locally. There's this one very dependable place I always used to go to for my last vehicle.

    Aside from obviously keeping my receipt and such, what else should I be especially concerned about? My biggest worry is the warranty of course.

    Any suggestions?
  • Hello,

    Well you should avoid going to dealer as much as possible, they charge way too much for service. As far as the warranty goes, Manufacturer has to honor service performed at non dealer locations as per federal law, providing that service was done at proper intervals, and specifications and proper fluids used as per service requirments stated in the service manual. I have had several new cars and have never gotten my oil changed at the dealer unless it was discounted, and I have saved the reciepts showing mileage and vin to prove service was performed. :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    One thing you might consider is going to the dealer for the Hyundai oil filter. It is a very good little filter with check/anti siphon valves in it. I pick up three or four at a time and do my own changes, or you can go to a reputable garage and have them do it, but use the Hyundai filter. That way, should any problem arise in the future you can show that you were using the correct filter.

    Actually, the Elantra is very easy to change the oil and filter on, and only takes about 10-15 minutes once you have done it a couple of times. Due to the long commute I have every day, I end up changing my oil about every 60-90 days.
  • Thanks folks for the info and suggestions. I'll certainly look into getting the extra oil filter(s) from the dealer. Too bad for my part they're about 70 miles out of my way for the whole trip. Uggghhhh. Between that and the idea of having to get up seriously early and still expect a long wait I'd surmise anyone being turned off by all this. 'but of course there's the warranty to always be concerned about.

    Thanks again. :)
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    I totally, totally disagree with bwaller78's advice against going to the dealer. Yes, some dealers are expensive, but not all are. My local dealer only charges $15.95.

    As far as getting serviced by non-dealership shops, there are a few things to know.

    First of all, the Honda and Hyundai oil filter bases are identical, but the internal specs (particularly the bypass valve pressure) are different between the two different models (12-15 psi for the Hyundai versus 14-18 psi for Honda). Using the wrong filter can result in oil starvation in your Hyundai engine. So make sure you get the proper filter; it can kill your engine if you don't. I have heard that at least in the past, Fram put out a filter advertised for Hyundai that resulted in this condition. Purolator and Wix, I've heard, are good filters for Hyundai, and of course the Hyundai OEM filter (which I can get for only $6 at my dealer). So make sure if you go to a non-dealer shop that you know which filter was used and that it is the right one for Hyundais.

    Also, bear in mind that Kia has the same engine in the Spectra, so you can go to a Kia dealer if that is more convenient or cheaper than a Hyundai dealer.

    One other thing: If you get your automatic transmission flushed, again, MAKE SURE you get it done with the right fluid (SP-III). Other fluids have additives that can literally disolve your torque converter vains. Be very wary of "universal" fluids, even if they say they are good for SP-III. Hyundai has not, for instance, approved Amsoil's universal synthetic AT fluid for use in Hyundais even though Amsoil claims it meets SP-III specs (although I understand Hyundai is investigating it).

    If you use any fluid other than SP-III in your auto transmission, or an oil filter that has the wrong specs and it results in a major failure, your warranty will *not* cover repairs because you did not maintain the car in accordance with the owners manual.
  • I have a 2005 Elantra ST hatchback with 29,000 miles on it. Had it inspected by Goodyear and they told me all 4 STRUTS were leaking and this could be a warrently issue. I called the Hyundai Dealer where I bought the car and he could not confirm this. He said just bring it in and we will take a look. Anyone know if this should be covered by the Bumper to Bumper 6 yr warrenty ?.
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Posts: 813
    the same thing happened to my daughter's 02 elantra a few years ago. The dealer replaced them under the warranty. She no longer has the elantra-she totaled it.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    OF COURSE it's covered, it's inside the bumpers.
  • Hi,

    My 2002 Elantra GT is approaching 55K miles and I am looking to get the 60K service done soon. Since I know that Midas does not provide the manufacture recommended SP-III transmission fluid, I will have to travel 80 miles to go to the dealer for the service.

    My questions are:
    1. What are the "must" items for the 60K service?
    My understandings are air filter, coolant flush, oil change, spark plugs, transmission oil, serpentine belt and timing belt (?).
    2. Any other "nice to have" items?
    Probably brakes and battery, but I can always go to Midas or Sears. Since I don't think I need these two things changed now, I can save it from the 60K service.

    It would be greatly appreciated if you can share your experiences and, better yet, if you happen to have the maintenance done with Doten Hyundai in Richmond, CA, definitely let me know.

    I bought my car brand new and it has served my family really well. Besides regular services and tires, I have not encounter any unexpected break-downs.

  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Those are pretty much what you need. Definitely the timing belt; that's probably the most important. If there is a Mitsubishi or Kia dealer nearby, call them and see if they can do the SP-III flush; their cars use it too.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Check your owners manual. On California delivered vehicles in 2002, I believe you will find that the timing belt is warranteed for 100K. There was a great deal of discussion about this several years ago. The same engine is used in all 50 states, but the consumer protection laws in California required a different service period for the timing belt change.

    I remember this from my 2002 I owned. The service interval for 49 states was 60K, California was 100K. Same engine, different law.
  • colloquorcolloquor Posts: 482
    Also, make sure - doubly-confirm - that your Hyundai dealer does indeed use SP-III ATF. Don't assume anything. Our local Hyundai dealer uses "a Hyundai-approved synthetic SP-III equivalent." There is no such beast - it's SP-III or nothing as per Hyundai corporate. So, please be careful.

    Additionally, Hyundai, Kia, or Mitsu SP-III ATF generally sells for around $6 per quart, plus or minus some change. The aforementioned dealer sells Hyundai SP-III for $10.09 per quart - what a rip! They sell it by the quart, even though they don't use it in the back room - rather incredulous wouldn't you say. When it comes to shop fluids, most shops, including those at most dealers, use bulk fluids, and this is the case at our local Hyundai dealer.

    I perform all scheduled maintenance on my Elantra. Once it's time for a timing belt change, however, I will have it done at the dealer. Everything else is self-performed. I log everything on Hyundai's website and in an paper-based log, keep all records and receipts, buy only Hyundai filters at the dealer (BTW . . . the oil filter is licensed/manufactured by Mann for Hyundai, an excellent filter manufacturer in Germany), and maintain the Elantra exactly by the book. I have all of the records, receipts, etc. for future reference should a warranty claim arise.

    Another good example of a dealer neglecting scheduled maintenance: at the 24 month or 30K service interval the evaporative emission control cannister air filter is supposed to be changed. This is located just aft of the left-rear wheel near the gas filler underneath the car. The change is specified in the Maintenance Manual/Log. Our local dealer doesn't even stock this filter - simply, they don't change it as per book. I had to special order one for my 24 month service which I performed.
  • the other night i got gas and i realized after the fact that i didn't put the feul cap back on and now my check engine light is on, i have since put the cap back on nice and tight. i have a 2005 hyundai elantra with 30,000 miles on it. i called up the dealership and they said that it would take about 100 miles before the light went off again. been about 300 and light is still on. what do i need to do? i know why it went on and i do not want to go to the dealer for that. any advice???thanks. jeff t. mechanicville n.y.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Another good example of a dealer neglecting scheduled maintenance: at the 24 month or 30K service interval the evaporative emission control cannister air filter is supposed to be changed.

    It says nothing about that in my owners manual (2005 model year). Interestingly enough, *my* dealer included it in the 30,000 mile service package. I told them not to do it since it was not in the manual.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    Let it go awhile longer, the 100 miles was an estimate on their part. The one time that happened to me (DW did me a favor and put gas in my Elantra) it took about a week for the light to go off.
  • colloquorcolloquor Posts: 482
    Hi Doohickie - In my 2006 Elantra Maintenance Log, the evaporative emission control cannister's air filter is called: Fuel Tank Air Filter, listed under the "Emission Control Items" section. There is no "Fuel Tank Air Filter" per se, rather it's the cannister air filter they are referring to. I think it's one of those Korean to English translation anomalies.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Interesting. As I understand it, there were virtually no mechanical changes between the 04 and 06 model years. I checked my maintenance schedule again, though, and there is nothing about that filter. Hmmmm.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    Sometime during the 2006 MY, didn't the Elantra get the updated powertrain, or at least the engine, as is also used on the 2007+ Elantra? I thought I read that someplace.
  • colloquorcolloquor Posts: 482
    Yes, the previous gen (XD) Elantra received the new generation's Elantra's head, and timing belt tensioner, toward the end of the XD's production run (late Spring and early Summer 2006). Most of the remaining 2006's on the lots when the 2007's hit the stores included these engine changes. Interestingly, the last production run also has the rough-textured protective spray completely covering the lower-half of the rocker panels, unlike previous XD's. I am sure there were other changes or tweaks as well.
  • hello and thanks for the reply to my previous question. While I am at it I would like to ask what is an XD elantra and my darn light still is on hehehehe
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    XD is the same as Elantra. I believe that is the name used in other countries.

  • thanks jim!!!!! i have been wondering thst 4 a while:0)
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    XD is the platform name for Elantras sold in the U.S. from 2001 to 2006 model years. Prior to that, Elantras were on the J2 platform. The 2007 and later Elantra platform is the HD and the upcoming Elantra Touring (wagon) is the FD platform.
  • because i disconnected the battery lol i couldnt deal with it anymore hehehhe thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!
  • anyone have any tips on how to get just a little more pep out of my 05 elantra. i don't wanna race the thing but i bog down alot on the hill out of my town everyday and was wondering if i could get a little more pep. mabey???????????
  • worldlyworldly Posts: 23
    Next to the primary window sticker on my new Elantra was an additional sticker outlining dealer installed options. The additional sticker had the following information:

    CAR CARE SYSTEM includes:

    - EXTERIOR PROTECTION (Forms a clear shell to seal out damaging oxidation, pollutants, detergents, UV rays, acid rain, bird droppings, and tree sap. Carries a 5-year warranty.)

    - INTERIOR PROTECTION w/BANOYL (Fabric has been thoroughly protected. Safeguards your car's interior from oil and water-based stains.)

    - VINYL and LEATHER CONDITIONER (Vinyl and Leather has (sic) been treated to help keep it soft and supple.)


    The retail cost of this Car Care System Package is $995. I did not pay for it.

    My questions are:

    1. How do I know if the protection has actually been placed on the exterior/interior?
    2. Since my Elantra does not have leather, which vinyl parts can I check to see if they've been treated?
    3. If exterior protection has been added, and I can confirm it's actually on the vehicle, when do I apply my first coat of wax on the exterior?
    4. If I treated the interior with Armor All (or similar product), would it cause problems with BANOYL?
    5. I did not receive a Car Care Kit (as shown on the additional sticker). Since I didn't pay for this so-called "kit," should I be concerned?

    Thank you for your comments.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    You might try calling the dealer's service dept (which doesn't know whether you did or did not pay for a Car Care Kit) and ask some of these questions. They were probably the people who applied (or didn't apply) the various treatments to the car, so they should know about waxing, interaction with Armor All etc.

    A few musings:

    * You should be able to tell if the paint protection is there and still working by how water beads (or doesn't) on the surface. When water stops beading, start waxing!

    * I am confused about the BANOYL. It seems as if that is a fabric protector, but you are talking about using Armor All. Does Armor All offer a fabric protector? I'm used to using 3M Scotchgard for that purpose (and it has worked great for me, fwiw). What you could do is use the fabric and/or vinyl protectors of your choice on inconspicuous places (maybe hard to do for the fabric) and see what happens after a few weeks.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The Hyundai dealer I trade with has done this since day one. And for each car I have bought from them, I start all negotiations with the removal of the "package" from negotiations. The first time they said "this is already installed and is included on all our cars" I just stood up and said I would go somewhere else that didn't charge $800 for a wax job, because that is all it is. I know what product they are using and finally got a buddy in makeready admit that, labor included, it costs less than $20 a car for the whole package.

    They will make a big deal over the "coverage" that the package extends, but read the fine print carefully and you will find that it actually covers almost nothing, and what it does cover requires that either you provide proof that the "protection system" has been maintained, or you pay the dealer anually to re-apply.

    This has got to be the biggest profit item in the whole deal, short of the finance offices.
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