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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    You should really be working with a repair manual to get all the steps, diagrams and special tools that you might need or might need to improvise. The repair manual is a good way to organize your "attack" on the problem and also insure your own safety.

    With parts, you can order a "clutch kit" which should contain pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bushing, and throwout bearing and if you're lucky, a clutch alignment tool (cheap thing made out of wood). If there is no alignment tool, buy one.

    So to summarize:

    repair manual
    clutch kit
    car jack preferably a floor jack that can go up high enough.
    jack stands
    transmission jack
    proper tools (extensions, pilot bushing extractor, alignment tool)
    safety goggles

    NOTE: you will be asked to inspect the flywheel for gouging, burning, and cracks. Please do so and be prepared to remove it if it doesn't look good---very important to ward off "clutch chatter".

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  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    my 97 crv awd with 148,000 miles just started to drip oil. oil was changed 2 weeks ago, put in valvoline for hi mileage vehicle 30w, yesterday i saw an oil stain on my white painted driveway under the crv. Under the hood i see lots of black grease on engine, but oil on ground is fresh looking clean oil. Dipstick shows oil just a hair below full indicator when cold, and a hair above when hot. Oil filter looks dry, so leak not there, but underside of engine looks wet around crankcase and other lower parts. It looks a lot wetter than what i would expect for the possible 1/16 qt. approx i see low on cold dipstick, so if i had not checked dipstick after oil change i would suspect that it was overfilled, but dipstick looked perfect after oil change. Crv has been driven only about 300 miles since oil change. When my dipstick shows low enough to add, would it possibly fix this problem by adding a good oil leak sealer product? Also when a small slow leak like this first shows up, is it likely to become a complete blowout soon and cause all oil to blow out in one swift go? or is it likely to stay a small slow leak? This vehicle has never lost oil between changes, since i read on another post honda spec allows up to 1 qt every 1000 miles, are small leaks ok to live with as long as i make sure i keep level good? And more important is it likely to stay a slow leak? Or will it become a complete blowout on my wifes next 50 mile expressway drive?
  • Some times oil will get inside the frame when changing the oil filter. It should stop after it has drained out and dried up. This has happened to me on several occasions. TOP CAT
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    Maybe thats what it is, it had oil all the way to full line after sitting all night and the oil change was at walmart. probably a hack who spilled a lot, that filter is in a hard to reach place, even on a lift. Thanks for replying, i hope its something that simple, the reason we drive a 13 year old crv is poverty, i need this car to last, got it from origonal owner 5 years ago with 120,000 on it, had proof of timing belt and water pump at 105000 and we got a recall letter from honda 4years ago covering all 97's with less than 150000 on them about emission system, honda did a complete tune up free as part of that, new plugs, wires, etc, all maintenance up to date, we need this to be a false alarm.Pray for us.
  • Lately our 2001 CRV has been making a humming or groaning sound upon acceleration at 50 or more mph. What could this be? It is not loud, but noticable. No fluids appear to be leaking or anything.
  • Take it back to W-M and have them look for the leak. At the very least they will wipe off all the excess oil that they should have in the beginning. Make sure they wipe off the drain plug and then check to make sure it is dry later. Hopefully the dripping will stop but, Honda's have a rep for weak oil pan drain threads. Good luck.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I highly doubt that Walmart replaced the SINGLE USE aluminum crush washer. What they do is just tighten the plug, which eventually strip the threads on the pan and require oil pan replacement, or thread repair...

    If cost savings is the main reason for taking it to Walmart, change the oil your self. The oil can be found for Free After Rebate, so are filters. The crush washers are $0.25 at the dealer, $0.10 at auto parts stores.

    CR-V is high enough that it does not require lifting to get under it (given that the person has not been consuming lots and lots of beer in the last 10-20 years).

    I would not use any of those "oil leak sealers" as they are nothing more than snake oils.
  • Hi,

    My wife bumped 2008 Honda CRV into a lamp post while backing out. As a result, the panel between the rear door and bumper has partially come out. Now I see a visible gap next to the bumper, and overlapping panels behind the rear door.

    Is this something I can attempt to fix myself, or do I need to go to a body shop? Does anyone have instructions on fitting panels? TIA.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Depends on whether the panel is actually damaged or if, hopefully, just some anchor came loose and needs to be refastened. You might crawl under there and scope it out. If the panel has been bent or distorted, or the bumper frame underneath badly bent, you may need some hydraulic power to fix that.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    My father bought his 2007 AWD EX-L CR-V w/ Navigation new in Spring 2007. We're now approaching three years of ownership and the car is now a little over 73,390 miles. I try to handle the maintenance in it for him.

    I'm replying to an older post of mine from 7/21/2009 when my dad's CR-V was at 62553 miles. In that post, I was wondering about what I should do next. Since then, at 63,662 miles, I had the oil change done along with a battery test and 19pt inspection (where everything was fine) all from the dealer for $30 even. A tire rotation for $19.95 was recommended (something I wouldn't do, I'll explain why below) along with the air filter/pollen filter for $154.95 (something else I woudn't pay them to do) and trans service for $90 (something I'm not sure about in general ).

    I've been trying to take care of the maintenance myself as much as I can, and wherever possible, cutting corners to keep the costs down.

    Unfortunately, my I believe dad just killed my "not-overpaying" streak by taking the car in for service yesterday to the dealer and paying about $250 to get the air filter, cabin air filter, differential service and oil change done. the car was at 73,390 miles at the time of service.

    I would have done the cabin air filter and the air filter myself for I think around $40 total (the cost of the filters). I usually either order from or get the dealer to match the price. I know the filters were supposed to be changed at 60k so we were late on that.

    I thought I saw on the Edmunds Maintenance Guide that the differential service is done at 90k, and should be pretty cheap. I think I've read that it's supposed to cost less than $20 to do (it's easier than engine oil to change right?). What are the details on this? I believe this is the first time we've dealt with this.

    I'm not sure if the detailed inspection that the 60k service covers was done too as part of the $250 my dad paid, but usually I pay $20 to firestone and I think that covers everything.

    Oil change is something I know I should be able to do myself but I still haven't gotten around to learning how to do it. I think I've been paying $25ish on average to have dealer do it. Sometimes it includes a tire rotation, but since I had all 4 of my tires replaced at walmart back in 2009 (w/ 4 Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza 225/65R17 tires, on or around 57,650 miles) I get my tires rotated and balanced for free now every so many miles (last time this was done was on 12/30/2009 when car was at 71609 miles, which I know is a long time to go w/out a tire rotation or balance).

    The one last thing I'm confused about is the Trans service (89.95) that was originally recommended at the 63,662 visit. According to the Edmunds maintenance, this is done at 120k.

    sorry for the long post but there's a lot I'm wondering. I'm hoping the info shared will help other CR-V owners too.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    blueiedgod, in your suggestions to ohbaobei's post on preparing for winter (ohbaobei, "Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair" #6391, 27 Sep 2009 12:56 pm#MSG6390) you said the following:

    Replace the Automatic Transission fluid if you have 30,000 miles on it.

    Replace the Rear differential fluid.

    I thought the transmission fluid was good for 120k miles and the rear diffential fluid
    didn't have to be done til 90k miles?

    Also, thanks for the heads up on the:

    Bleed the brakes and replace the brake fluid every 3 years, regardless of mileage.

    Replace the Power steering fluid every 3 years.

    The 2007 AWD Honda CR-V my dad bought new in Spring 2007 is approaching 3 years. We'll look into these services soon. The car's at a little over 73,390 miles now
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    Mr. Shiftright, I saw that for your 20k service in your 2008 CR-V, you said you "saved about $90." Is that from the $220 you were originally quoted for the service? Meaning the $130 covered the dealer doing oil change and tire rotation and you yourself did the filters? That still seems like quite a bit.

    At our local honda dealers, I usually pay $25-30ish for the oil change and it often includes a tire rotation along with an inspection (I believe a 19pt). For the filters, I'll usually buy them from or get a local dealer to match their price (so I can save on shipping). Then I'll do them myself. The filters are around $40 I think.

    You listed out all the things they were going to inspect at 20k:

    2. Inspect Front and Rear Brakes
    3. Check Parking Brake Adjustment
    4. Inspect the following:
    a) Tie Rod Ends, Steering Gear Box, and Boots
    b) Suspension Components
    c) Driveshaft Boots
    d) Brake Hoses and Lines (including ABS)
    e) All Fluid Levels and condition of fluids
    f) Exhaust System
    g) Fuel Lines and Connections.

    I mentioned the inspection that I usually get done by the dealer w/ an oil change depending on the coupon I have at the time. The other place I frequently go to is Firestone. They usually inspect for free or for $20 they do a in depth inspection that I believe covers everything that the in-depth 30k service requires.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    "...After going thro old posts it looked like earlier CR-V,s needed the differential fluid replaced at a much sooner mileage than the OWNERS manual stated.."

    Is this case with later CR-V's?

    My father has the 2007 AWD CR-V and I'm not sure what the manual says, but Edmunds Maintenance site ( says that it has to be done at 90k for our car. However the dealer did just do it at 73,390k
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    I'm planning on doing an oil analysis for the Mobil 1 oil I'm about to change after almost 10k miles. I was recommended to try Blackstone Laboratories on Here's the post w/ the recommendation from knightshade
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    This is interesting.. I always thought if a car had a timing chain you just never worried about it. I'm not sure what my dad's 2007 AWD CR-V has so I'll look into it. The car's at only a little over 73,390 so I don't think I need to worry much about it.

    But my sister is now driving the 2004 I4 Accord that I purchased back in April 2004 new. The car is at 151481 miles and I believe has a timing chain. I've never done anything with it though.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    blueiedgod, in your suggestions to ohbaobei's post on preparing for winter (ohbaobei, "Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair" #6391, 27 Sep 2009 12:56 pm#MSG6390) you said the following:

    Replace the Automatic Transission fluid if you have 30,000 miles on it.

    Replace the Rear differential fluid.

    I thought the transmission fluid was good for 120k miles and the rear diffential fluid
    didn't have to be done til 90k miles?

    Also, thanks for the heads up on the:

    Bleed the brakes and replace the brake fluid every 3 years, regardless of mileage.

    Replace the Power steering fluid every 3 years.

    The 2007 AWD Honda CR-V my dad bought new in Spring 2007 is approaching 3 years. We'll look into these services soon. The car's at a little over 73,390 miles now

    The manual for 2007 may not have any scheduled services listed, since they are all programmed into the Maintenance Minder system .

    Honda usually has two schedules, Normal and Severe, and I would verture to state that there are probably 5 people in the whole US of A who fall under the Normal schedule. Everyone else is under Severe schedule.

    I would go by the codes given by the Mainternance Minder system on the CR-V. However, premature oil changes and subsequent resetting of the maintenance minder system may reset to Transmission and Differential fluid reminders.

    As I would alwsy say, Read The Fine Manual. Edmunds' guide is not factory manual.
  • I got in my 2004 CRV today and everything was fine. I did a quick stop and when I put my car into drive the light was not there. I went down all the gears and every other light came on. Is it possible for a bulb to burn out in the "gear box"?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I got in my 2004 CRV today and everything was fine. I did a quick stop and when I put my car into drive the light was not there. I went down all the gears and every other light came on. Is it possible for a bulb to burn out in the "gear box"?

    Yes, the bulbs in the gear selector indicator can burn out. It is also the Check Transmission Light. Refer to the Owner's Manual what the blinks mean.

    However, a burnt out bulbs would preclude you from knowing if there is a problem with transmission, since you will not see it blinking.

    You need to remove the gauge cluster to replace the bulb in the back of it. The bulbs itself is probably under $5 at the dealer's parts counter.

    My gauge cluster does not have gear indicators, and the shifter is on the floor... oh and there are 3 pedals on the floor :P
  • Thank you!

    Interestingly enough all the other lights on the dash come on when I turn on the car. So I think it might just be the bulb on the gear box. Its a relief to know its not some insane thing - I can handle a dead bulb. Especially since this has been the year of bulb replacement on my crv.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I can handle a dead bulb. Especially since this has been the year of bulb replacement on my crv.

    What I was trying to say is that you need to replace the bulb, since the "D" light is also the trouble indicator for the transmission. If the bulb is out, you will not not know if there is a minor problem with the transmission, until you are straded by the side of the road and need a $3000 transmission replacement.
  • I have a 2004 CRV-EX, AWD with 105,000 miles. I have two problems that may or may not be related. First, at highway speeds (60 mph+) there is a severe steering vibration and the whole front end shudders when I brake hard. The steering wheel actually pulsates rapidly from left to right. My first thought was warped rotors so I replaced all four and installed new ceramic pads. The tires are fairly new and they were recently balanced and rotated. I torqued the lugs nuts to 80 lb ft. Second, When accelerating from a stopped positon, there is a shuddering felt and heard from the left front wheel. It does this during rapid acceleration or when on starting off uphill. It only lasts for 2 to 3 seconds and then suddenly disappears. My Haynes repair manual suggests that the CV joint may be causing this while the vibration may be caused by the hub bearing. I've never tackled either of these two jobs myself. Has anyone ever experienced these two problems or have any advice or suggestions? Thanks!
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    My 04 has the vibration while braking as well but I'm pretty sure the rotors needed to be replaced, they are the originals (130K miles) and were only turned once.

    Regarding shuddering and the sound when accelerating, I had a broken motor mount on the driver's side, a somewhat common thing on CRV's I learned here. It caused a similar sound. The mount is a big hunk of steel just behind the battery, you may be able to see a crack or some other sign of a break. I would hear a groaning sound when accelerating, dealer replaced for about $160. That may be something to look at.

    Please post back on the vibration when resolved please, we are all guilty of posting our problems sometime but not the fix. Thanks
  • nolajnolaj Posts: 4
    I have a 00' crv-lx and i was driving and the light on the dash that says check came on i looked in the owner's manual and it says that it something with emissions. i know i am needing an oil change could this be the issue? Some one also said that changing the transmission fluid is at the same time changing the differential fluid is that a correct statment? the car currently has 156,000 miles on it.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    No I don't think any of those statements are correct.

    Since you have your owner's manual, it should tell you exactly at what periodic mileages fluids should be changed.

    The check engine light does have to do with emissions, but oil changes have nothing to do with the light going on. You'll have to have the car scanned and trouble codes read, to know what's going on. It could be something quite simple. Often, Autozone will scan the car for free, for you. If you get a code #, come back and tell us what it is.

    In the meantime, read over the service schedules for your car.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • My check engine light has come on every 10k miles or so since it was new. 104,000 now. I followed the owner's manual to reset it each time.

    My owner's manual shows that the Auto transmission fluid should be changed twice as often as the rear diff after 60k miles
  • Problems solved!!
    After checking absolutely every thing I could for wear, ie: CV joints, tie rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc, I was down to checking the runout on the new rotors. Of course, I don't have a dial indicator. I remembered that my Chevrolet manual says to seat new brake pads by successive hard braking maneuvers. It actually gave the speed to get up to and how many seconds to stop the vehicle. Well, I went out and really got my CR-V brake linings smoking. I let them cool and drove it again, problem solved!

    The shuddering when starting off especially on a hill, I'm chalking up to normal operation...This is a quote from what I found on the Internet.. "Later Model CR-Vs equipped with automatic transmissions also have a lockup torque converter and Grade Logic program which aids the CR-V when climbing steep inclines by keeping the transmission in the lower gear." I think that it I was hearing was a combination of the Grade Logic program at work as well as the real wheels engaging due to the AWD system.
  • Had the same problem, pulled the driver side switch, WD 40, replaced, everything works fine. I guess I will replace both switches. Thanks theriver, you saved me some money for sure.
  • not only did I replace both switches but I bought a few extra (I think they were 4 or 5 dollars each) and stuck them in the glove compartment since it is more work to drive the dealer (ironically, they don't seem to stock many). I think what happens is if you shut the door hard and the seat belt catches it snaps the plastic.

    One of the cheapest parts I have ever bought - My accord has a similar button, but that has never broken and the car is much older - must be the weight of the door and the way the seatbelt retracks.
  • I thought I'd share a couple of interesting things I've discovered related to vibration and noises related ot winter driving:

    1) The traction control system activates the ABS, which causes some vibration when accelrating from a stop or up a hill. The yellow "trianlge" will appear o nteh dash when thsi si happening.

    2) Frozen snow and slush can accumulate on the underside of the vehcile in some interesting places causing some realy, really disturbing and annoying noises as follows:
    a) Slush can accumulate around the right rea engine mount causing engine vibration at low RPM's. This almost sounds like you have a bad exhaust leak.
    b) Slush can build-up around the pilot shaft. This chuck of ice will break loose upon hitting a large bump, but is trapped above the pilot shaft. This material will make rattling sounds as different speeds. It sounds a little like a loose heat shield.

    You cna jsut ignoire it as it shouldn't hurt anything, it get a long sice scraper and knock it loose. the ice around the pilot shaft might be hard to knock loose without driving up on ramps or crawling part way under the vechile.

    The comical thing... If I had taken it to a dealer, the car might have sat in a warm service bay and the ice melted, or they would have knocked off the ice when they inpected it.
  • markk1markk1 Posts: 30
    I have a new 2010 CRV that I've had for about 3 months. Maybe once every week or two when i turn the engine on I hear an odd sound from about where the key is. It is difficult to describe but it is sort of like crumpling a newspaper or little like the sound you get when you pull clothing from the dryer apart in the winter. it lasts a couple of seconds while I'm turning the key to start the car (on position). I have been unable to detect a pattern to this, I'll ask the dealer about it on my first service but unless it starts happening more they are very unlikely to hear it.

    Has anyone had this? it has also occurred to me that perhaps it is suppose to make that sound under some condition
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