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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    Odds are the dealer makes more profit off the extended warranty than it does selling the car. Still, a large repair bill scares some people, so the peace of mind the warranty brings may be worth it.

    $2450 is a lot of money, though. How many repairs are likely to cost more than that? The A/C comes to mind. But I think the highest amount I've seen quoted is in the $3k range, and Honda's seems to be splitting the cost on that if the mileage is below 100k and one has evidence of regular service.

    What else? The engine seems to be bullet proof.
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
  • just purchased a 2011 Honda CR-V and have noticed when approaching 55-60mph, the front end shakes. Anyone have this problem or any recommendations to get rid of this problem? Maybe different tires than the factory installed ones?
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Don't know your location, but check for ice and snow stuck to inside or outside of wheel rims. Most common around this time of year if you are in snow country. If not that, then start with having the wheels balanced front and rear. The dealer should do this for free.
  • I have a 2008 CRV, AWD 4 cyl, about 20k miles. I've noticed for a couple months that there is a vibrating/grumbling noise only when I accelerate. It doesn't matter how fast I'm going, and it seems to be worst when it's cold out. After about 15-20 minutes of driving seems to improve. Any ideas? thanks.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,634
    If you have the stock tires, they are probably close to 2/3 of their life. Did you rotate the tires at 5K intervals?

  • This is an old thread but I thought I might just as well contribute my recent experience...

    I don't think timing chains are forever. My 2003 CRV with 75000 km just had an "engine light" problem; was found to be due to "valve timing is off" and 'replaced chain and sprockets'. Not an inexpensive fix but the light has gone out...
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 88,697
    Well... I think they are designed to last the life of the vehicle.. I don't think anyone would change one, unless it broke (or slipped)..

    Sort of like an automatic transmission... It's supposed to last the life of the vehicle, but that doesn't mean it will...

    The last chain I had to replace was on a '70 Ford Galaxie, so what do I know? ;)


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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 60,964
    Unless that chain was making a racket like hell's bells, I think that repair was probably not the problem. If the chain jumped time, your car would run very very badly.

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  • Any chance I may have a timing issue? I get a rough idle when cold and goes away when I put into gear. Haven't seen a misfire code set but will check again. '02 with 81K miles. Plugs have been replaced with OEM within the last 10K miles along with air filters.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 60,964
    No I don't think so. With modern cars timing specs are not likely to change--it's a pretty rock solid thing. Sounds more like an EGR issue perhaps, or vacuum leak, or maybe this crappy winter gas they give us sometimes.

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  • If the car was made in Japan, bolts that have been torqued must have yellwo paint on the head. It should be a yellow strip, but sometimes it is jsut a blob. It should extend beyount the bolt enough so that the inspector can see if the bolt head has moved. this is to make sure it wasn't loosened, or didn't work loose. It is Japanese law. If you have a flat, you can replace the wheel & tire with the spare, but must stop at a licensed automotive repair shop and have the bolts (or nuts) retorqued and striped with the yellow paint.
  • I've posted this in the cold weather section as well before I realized there was a CR-V forum....sorry if thats wrong? But my problem is fairly scary.
    I have a 2006 Honda CR-V Ex and we get a lot of freezing rain wet snow here in the east. When it's cold and there's ice or snow the first time I press on the breaks there is very little reaction from the car, i.e. the brakes don't work, if you forget about this it is quite alarming.
    My practice now is when I pull out of my driveway I start driving down the street and do a hard break to warm up the breaks. Once I do this the breaks are fine for the rest of the drive. This can't be normal, several times I've been looking for a "soft" place to crash when I hit the breaks again and it stops.
    I've mentioned it to the dealer but of course they can't find anything, problem is if I've driven there I've already warmed up the breaks. It usually only happens in the morning but sometimes in the evening if the car has been sitting out in the cold weather for a while.
  • My advice - if you are able to do without your CR-V for a while drop it off at the dealer and tell them you aren't taking it back until the problem is fixed. Remind them that this is a huge safety issue and could turn into a liability issue if the problem isn't located / resolved and you are injured as a result. Good luck.
  • Hi there- I also have a similar problem with my 2007 CRV (50,000). I'm still shaking from nearly killing a pedestrian yesterday due to my inability to stop at an intersection while on snow. We purchased the car used in May so this is the first winter (Boston) with it. Tires are decent, have been driving 30 yrs & never had problem like this. Braking is fine when road is clear of ice & snow. On snow & ice, after you apply the brakes it makes a loud "crunching" sound while the car skids and the vehicle doesn't stop until about 10-20 feet after application of brakes.

    Last week, we took the car to the dealer from whom we bought it who saw no problem but never actually took the car out for a test ride - duh. My husband then brought it to our local mechanic who drove it in a snow-covered cemetery and experienced the scary problem first hand. His impression was that it has something to do with the ABS brakes kicking in too soon? Possibly needing a computer adjustment? Anyone know what might cause this problem or have suggestions?

    I think our warranty expired around 36,000 miles. I wonder if the car always had this problem but we didn't find out until it snowed. I suppose we have no recourse either? Thanks!
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,634
    Try this:

    #1 Your tires are probably junk by now and were rated poorly for snow/ice. Check the tire model at tire rack for review. My '08 CR-V Bridgestones were last place out of 35 tires for all seasons.

    #2 Buy dedicated snow tires with rims.

    You will see the difference.

    #3 Replace the All Seasons with high-rated rubber.

  • jimbresjimbres Posts: 2,025
    Strongly agree with OW. The right tires make all the difference. Don't stint on rubber.
  • First oil change on this vehicle since I got it. I change my oil every an indicator says 50% regardless of what the manual says.
    I have followed the manual and tried at least a dozen times and it still says 50% .
    Called the closest dealer 120 km away and he said to try it with the engine off until it starts blinking . Well, that doesn't work and the manual says to have it in the On 11 position . There are six steps to follow in the maual and I have done everyting it says to but cannot get it back to 100.
    My previous vehicle was a Chev Uplander van and it was SO easy. Just push and hold a button and it would return to 100%.

    Has anyone here had the same problem and can perhaps give some ideas on this. I don't want to have to make an appointment that far out of town and pay a dealer for what should be a very simple process.
    I have always changed my own oil and filter in every vehicle I have owned and don't want to start paying someone else to do it just to get it reset.
    2007 CR-V , AWD purchased with 22K km Oct 20 , 2010
  • Thanks for the input - guess you car buffs know your stuff! Brought car back to dealer who said the problem was the tires. Now have 4 new Blizzak snow tires and am $600 poorer. Will have to wait till Friday's snow storm to see if this really fixes the problem - although I did make it home on rain slicked roads this afternoon without hitting anyone.

    I still don't understand the whole thing. Having survived 3 teenagers numerous $hitbox cars as well as my own, we've only used snow tires once (on an old volvo wagon that came with them). We've had accords, camrys, corollas, jeep, windstar, grand caravan and NEVER had a problem braking with "All weather tires." A couple of these cars had >200,000 miles on them. Snow tires are a pain - they have to be changed and stored. What's the best all weather tire? Anyone know? Thanks again.
  • Thanks for the advice. Got $600 worth of new snow tires today - have yet to test them out on snow (rain washed away a lot of the snow today). Not happy though - other tires only had 15,000 miles on them. The dealer must have put really crappy tires on the car when I bought it (I have to investigate that). The "old" tires are sitting in the car waiting for me to make room for them in my basement:) Thanks again.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,634
    What's the best all weather tire?

    Check Tire rack and surveys for All-Season Tires. I'll check and post later.

    I have the Kuhmo's.

  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,634
    All-Season Tire Survey:

    link title

    Looks like the answer to you question is Michelin LTX M/S2. Should stick like glue in snow and rain and save the winter tire change.

    Probably $200 x4 installed. Now, you can shop based on dry season so do not need the top-rated rubber in winter since you went for the snows.

    I went with 245R17 Kuhmo Road ventures which shaved $50 off per tire and are good enough. Nice in the snow.

    I always go up one size for replacements. The CR-V handles fantastic with the extra section width!

  • Greetings:
    I have a 2003 CRV (just over 100K miles), and the windshield washer nozzles aren't pushing out the fluid very well at all. I'm only getting a small area of coverage on the windshield, and it's really frustrating during snowy weather, what with salt and such.

    At any rate, does anyone have possible issues/solutions for this (hopefully avoiding replacing the motor or other components)? I've got plenty of fluid in the reservoir, so that is not an issue.

    All thoughts/suggestions appreciated.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    First look for any obvious kinks in the hoses. They are a thin walled line and kink quite easily. Also look for signs of leaks due to frost damage if someone used water in cold temps at one time. Barring that, try to blow the hoses back from where they attach to the nozzles. I have seen them pick up cardboard debris from the contr lid sealer inside coming loose and finding its way into the reservoir. Then it gets broken down into mush and the motor tries to suck and it clogs there or farther downstream.

    Can you hear the motor sound powerful? Does the rear hatch washer work ok?
  • The orifice where the spray comes out is clogged. If you use a pin or a needle and insert it into the hole where the spray comes out it will clear the corrosion and it will spray fine........You may have to do it a couple of times and wiggle it around some to open up the hole to it's proper size.
  • I will try all suggested fixes - thanks, all.
  • zeenzeen Posts: 401
    OK. I replaced the headlight bulbs. I bought an off brand from an auto parts online store that supposedly work in the CRV. I installed them fine and they seemed to work. My problem is that they only give me a high beam. Both the high and low setting on the light stalk produce a high beam. The bulbs are supposed to be dual beam.
    Possibilities: Bulbs are just high beam; fuses for low beam burnt out (removing the fuses to check in near impossible).
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I am not sure what the 08 takes. But if you recall if it had 3 tab connector, then for sure it has both hi and lo in the one bulb.

    That is not to say that hi and/or can't be handled with 2 tabs as they are. I only mentioned in case u recalled yours having three. Then the fuse or circuit breaker would be next logical check if both lights have no lo beam.
  • zeenzeen Posts: 401
    THanks. It did have 3 tabs. Will check fuses but they are a bear to get out. Hard to reach and i guess I need a special tool to pull them
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Usually left and right have separate circuits for safety reasons. It does seem odd that both new bulbs have no lo beam. Is there something more to this that u have forgotten to mention?
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