Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,875
    Sounds more like paprika than a car part :P

    Anyway, I did look at a picture, and yep, it's a rocker panel trim piece with an expensive name... :P

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • tricia77tricia77 Posts: 6
    Its the part on the bottom of the door not under the door/vehicle
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,875
    Okay, I give up...garnish it is. I'll remember that!

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • jim12jim12 Posts: 7
    Don't let that dealer touch your car. Go to a good local mechanic and get second opinion.
  • This problem first began 6 weeks ago. 2005 Honda CR-V SE with 85,000 miles. Have taken the vehicle to my mechanic, who recently changed the VTEC Oil Control Solenoid Valve. My mechanic kept the vehicle all day & drove it around 5 different times the other day, whereby the malfunction indicator lamp didn't return.

    However, the light appeared again the other day as soon as I started the car. Took it back to my mechanic who again read the code P0341 , which indicates a stretched timing chain. My mechanic insists that the car is running fine, & that I shouldn't worry about it unless I begin to hear noise coming from the engine. Any advice or thoughts? I should mention that my mechanic is an independent shop & not a Honda dealership. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,875
    Well it's the cam chain that might be damaged...also the solenoid could have a bad/loose connection.

    so he'd best check the cam chain for looseness, check the cam timing, and, as well re-check his connections at the new solenoid.

    There may be various resets he could also do with the scan tool.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • Thanks, Mr. Shiftright. The dealership wants $1400 for a new cam chain. However, my mechanic states that the cam chain is fine & isn't making any noise so I shouldn't worry about it. I'm on the fence on this one...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,875
    well, I guess he could re-check the solenoid connections but the car's computer must be sensing some kind of engine timing variations out of spec.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • therivertheriver Posts: 70
    04 CRV -

    I would like to change the plastic lens on the instrument panel - broken and discolored). I will not be removing any of the gauges just the plastic glass. It does not look like a tough job - the lens looks like it is just apiece of plastic. For the life of me I can't see any screws to take the plastic frame out (which has some funny name).

    Anyway - anyone know is 1) this is an easy job and 2) how to do it.

    It is more cosmetic, irritating than safety so if it is involved just might forget it.

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    You have to take the gauge cluster out of the vehicle to do that. The clear lens is held by clips on the side of the gauge cluster.

    You have to remove the trim around the gauge cluster to get to the cluster screws. If you have automatic it is a little more involved since the shifter is right up there. On the manual, you just pull on the trim, straight out and it will pop.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I have bought NGK Irridium spark plugs from Advance Auto for about $7 or $8 a piece.

    Go to NGK site and plug in your car, it will tell you what part number to look for.

    Amazon is another place to get them cheap.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 70
    thanks. After reading your post and checking online I decided to have the dealer do it -seems like a lot of work - with coupons/discounts and parts I was able to get it to about 120 dollars (the total parts were about 40 dollars) so in this case I think it was worth it.

    Unfortunately I just came back from a long trip and the car almost overheated about 600 miles from home. Was able to continue trip, knowing I was not losing any antifreeze - got home no problem and found out that the cooling fan and A/c fan were dead. Over 1000 dollars (non-dealer) but no damage. Absolutely no warning but glad I caught it.

  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Does any manufacturer still use "break-in" oil?

    The oil I am referring to had what was believed to be metal cutting abilities (although that term cutting probably sounds too harsh) and I think it was used to help engine break-in in reducing hatch marks etc on cylinder walls, thereby allowing a quicker or more tight ring seal for best compression.

    Mfrs used to say (still do on some?) if you swapped out that oil too early you were doing yourselves no favor. I have asked this the odd time in the last few years on car and bike forums and I have gotten all sorts of answers, and they contradict. Any expert opinions here?

    My suspicion is that with today's mfr'ing processes is that they are so precise that this type oil has no purpose any longer.
  • I have a 2004 Honda CRV with 120,000 miles. When I start it it will start up with low RPMs like its flooded for about 10 seconds. After that it idles fine. When taking off the car will miss. I have to take off slow or it will miss. When I do get it up to say 65mph it will cruse along fine that it will start missing ( best way to describe it ) when it does this its like it has no power. Then I have to let it decelerate back down to say 40mph before it will accelerate again. Its like the ignition is missing. I didnt change anything yet but made sure there wasnt any loose connections. I had just changed my air filter. I also kinda am thinking the torque converter. What do you guys think?
  • roma007roma007 Posts: 35
    In the past week noticed the LCD screen between speedometer and tachometer started showing scrambled data. It would alternate between normal and junk data over a few days.
    Dealer wants 725+tax for replacing the whole instrument cluster. Supposedly the screen is part of a whole unit there.

    Has anyone else had this issue? My car is 2007 with just 35k miles on it. Also, had to replace water pump about three weeks ago. Honda was gracious enough to reimburse that expense even though powertrain warranty expired back in December. I am starting to wonder about the "Hey it is a Honda" reliability claim.

  • Have you checked your catalytic converter? I had similar problems on another vehicle and the converter was plugged up.
  • jr1jr1 Posts: 9
    How much more maintenance for awd vs fwd vehicle.... with CRV..
    Also, the road noise issue .......anyone drove '12 model and is it quite. Do not believe in inuring ones ears to unnecessary sounds when trying to listen to a radio of had a chat with passengers.
  • mobeemobee Posts: 13
    Hey Blue- I just thought I would report back to you. After all the harassing and insulting you did regarding my '03 CRV and my problems - Despite your ultimate wisdom declaring my lawsuit idiotic and wasteful, I received my check recently recovering all of my costs. Mine was combined into the class with others and because of me and others like me CRV owners throughout the US received at least a great portion of the undue expenses caused by Honda's embarrassing handling of the CRV issues.

    Goodbye and good riddance Honda! You will never get my money again.
  • My CR-V has 170K miles and is very well maintained by myself. This fall I've started to have a problem with SLOW ENGINE CRANKING which sounds exactly like a bad battery but it is not. Sometimes I get in a it's a very slow start and once, the cranking slowed to a stop. 10 seconds later, turn key and still slow crank, but then it starts. Has happened when engine hot or cold. Other times it starts right up. Installed new plugs for the heck of it. Don't think it's a coil as runs smooth once running.

    I replaced the battery and have the exact same problem. Alternator good with battery at about 12.6V with engine NOT running and 14.4V with engine running. Had my local mechanic check everything out as well with nothing found. I have checked, removed, and cleaned 3 grounding points on the vehicle as well. Also replaced Neg battery terminal which looked a little ragged. Nothing seems to make a difference.

    Mechanic suggests installing new starter as next action item - any thoughts? Little or nothing pops up on internet regarding this issue.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I have this same issue with mine and it has way fewer miles than yours. New battery seems to make no difference. I was going to suggest to you to replace your neg and positive wires and terminals but sounds like you did the one, but the positive going to the starter is more important as it is a longer run and because of proximity, prone to current-robbing erosion.

    Your post has helped me with a theory on this problem. I think there are three things that compound into a weakness. The battery is too small with minimum CCA's. The wires are too light a gauge, especially for the length run. The starter motor may be too light in design also..all 3 things indicators of cost-cutting. Along with Ford's paint, transmissions, head gaskets etc and Mazda's rust rust rust, GM's no right to still be in business etc, I will not be buying another Honda. Naturally I have other reasons too for leaving Honda behind (like their denial for poor life-span A/C and auto trans, I am also very unimpressed with the brakes. They are too small, and very prone to corrosion and piston binding which doesn't let the pads wear down evenly which shortens their already short life. And the newer Honda's are even cheaper than our generation. I think we got the last of any Honda generation worth buying.

    Anyway, if the weather holds, I hope to remove my starter and confirm connections, going to use a heavier gauge on the positive to the battery. Also plan to maybe split the starter if it looks like it will bolt back together without issue, and confirm brushes are in good shape and touching armature evenly, lube the shaft ends and also the throw-out gear shaft.
    In the meantime, if you are not into maybe doing all that, when starting, at least make sure your lights, rear defogger and fan (and heated seats if you have them) are all off. That helps, as does a battery warmer and block heater if you live in a really cold region.
  • Based on input received, I'm thinking my problem may be a failing starter. Can someone post info on a previous starter replacement cost? I see some dealer costs of $800-850. Yes, Im sure it's a good starter and they know what they are doing but that cost is crazy. My local indy place says $350-400. I'm going to also check a local indy shop (Natick, MA) that deals extensively with Honda's to see their cost. Would feel better with them as I'm sure they have do many of them over the years. Don't care if it's a re-manufactured starter. Get me another 3-4 years and from current 170K miles up to 250K and I will be happy
  • I have an 04, now with about 140K. I think I put a starter in about 110K - although in that case I could tell the starter was going - I made an appointment when I noticed slow cranking and the next day it stopped so I needed it towed!

    Anyway, I think I spent about 400 at a local shop and it seems fine.

    The problem I have is probably what you are implying here. I do a lot of my work at the dealership - the higher prices are worth it and I have a good dealer. I would not mind paying 800 dollars if I knew I was going to get the use out of it - Frankly, I am looking to trade in about 30-50K miles (or keep as a beater) maybe 1-2 years and I hate to spend too much. So after about 100K or so, I do some things outside of dealers, just because I don't want to pay higher prices - even though the quality is probably a little better.
  • Were you able to fix your latch problem? I have same problem w/ my 97 CR-V - can't open door (drivers) from inside! I had been lowering window and reaching out (pain in the crumpet) but now my window is starting to stick!! I thought it was the actuator from posts in forum but i don't know. I think your message is only one like my problem so far!! any info on what problem is and how you fixed it would be greatly appreciated. I cannot afford to have dealer fix unfortunately. thanks
  • Resolution: Starter was bad. Tested and was pulling far more current than it should have. After contacting 2 Honda dealers, they did not have Honda remanufactured starters. New one installed was $1100 at dealer #1 and $1300 dealer #2. I ended up having my local garage, who I trust, install a remanufactured one. He spoke highly of the Remy rebuilt starters and said he would put one in his own car if it was up to him. Got that from another indy garage as well. Cost complete was $530. He could have got a new Honda starter for $800 so the installed price would have been $1000. Worse case, I can install 2 of the rebuilts for the cost of 1 new Honda starter.
  • Hello guys ,
    I dare request the valuable support of some connoisseurs in automatic transmission especially the Honda CR-V model year 2006 , I live in Algeria where 99% of cars are stick shift ,which means that in case of breakdown; fixing an automatic transmission here is a closed book to most mechanics , finding the right mechanic nationwide to fix an automatic driven car is like gold dust , at a pinch those who can afford it order and replace either a new automatic or manual gear box from France but wait 6 months or 12 months to set it up !

    To which end , I am eager to buy my neighbor's Honda Cr-v year 2006 which shows 50.000 miles only .
    See , this is gonna be a high stake deal although for I am positive Honda engine is a very sturdy & reliable as I own a civic since 6 years and no troubles at all aside from replacing brake pads , battery , tires , I am rather worried to death about the lifetime of the automatic transmission albeit I am rigorous with oil change...

    Bottom line , I am craving to break my saving box to have have this neat gray CR-V and plan to keep it until 200 k miles yet people around me say I am going to throw my money down the drain or sign my own death contract , to make matters worse Honda left Algeria since 4 years now .

    Thus , your feedback ladies & Gents would be very welcome and decisive as I am on the fence right now .

    Much appreciated .


    Adel TOUHAMI ,
    Annaba / ALGERIA .
    tel : +213 661 260 574
  • You have nothing to worry about. As long as you change the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles the car will not likely to have problems. I have a 2006 automatic and have no problems with the transmission. Do have the valves adjusted every 30,000 miles as Hondas tend to have valve problems.
  • I have the same problem. It happens when the ignition key is not turned fast enough. To eliminate the problem just turn the key quickly to start the engine and you wont have any more sizzling sound. This is not an uncommon problem with the CRVs.
  • Thanks Miss. California , your message is a sight for sore eyes as the CR-v's automatic gear box is not as black as it is some guys painted it here .
    I'm just gonna shell out all of my savings to buy it and hopefully It end up as a white elephant .
    Fingers crossed.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I am not an expert on auto trans, but as a general rule to check out first, try these things first.
    - have owner drive you around. This will tell you some of their habits. You should avoid it if their common practice is to shift into reverse while still rolling forward or vice versa, very bad
    - also avoid if their practice is to apply throttle right after shifting into gear before the gear has actually engaged..i.e. throttling it to speed up its engagement into gear..very bad
    - on the drive, look for harshness of shifting...does it shift hard (abruptly, jerky or even make loud clunk or thump noises) when upshifting or downshifting through the gears in common city driving.
    - when you get back, check the levels and smell the tran fluid from the fill hole. It should not smell burnt.
    - Put some on some white paper..should not have a darkish red tint, should still be bright or vivid colouring (I say this assuming Honda's fluid is red when new) I have never owned a Honda automatic.
    - ask to see the replaced records and dates and jive the odometer with said dates and $ spent for service. Honda's are VERY fussy in using THEIR own fluids. (as opposed to aftermarket, even if the aftermkt contr says it is ok to use).

    I usally don't pay much heed to that last one, but i DO with Honda cars. And with my own CRV ( a stick tho) although I do not buy their engine crankcase oil.

    Last thing...Honda DID have a lot of trouble with their auto trans in both Odessy (never remember the spelling on their minivan, but this doesn't look right) and Civics. Not sure about the CRV but they are sorta known to not have the best auto trans out there.
  • I have a 2002 red CR-V that now has a bit of a damage on the right front fender (teenager). I was considering replacing the entire fender with something used and wanted to know how close the color is likely to match. Has anyone done anything like this before? If so, was it really noticeable?

    The alternative is taking it into a body shop. That would cost a bunch of money and I still don't know how close they would match the paint.

    Thanks for your input!
Sign In or Register to comment.