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Honda CRV problems
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Varmit, in case your interested, after extensive research and talking to three tire manufacturers. The consensus on 5 wheel rotation is to use the spare on the right rear wheel and make the front left the new spare uaing X rotation. The two rears will go foward, the right front will cross to the left rear, the spare will go on the right rear and the front left will be the spare. Anyone that does this should mark the tires for the next rotation to keep track. This is not FOR Directional Tires.
Wellresearched - Health and life insurance are all paid up - thank you. Sorry, but in Nashville driving 8-10 MPH over the speed limit puts in the righthand lane barely keeping up with the flow of traffic. In my opinion driving significantly slower than the flow of traffic can be just as dangerous as excessive speeds.
Inkie - it is an automatic and if it has overdrive then I stand corrected as "just another idiot". Where is this "overdrive" located and how do I access it? I have not seen it but will get the owner's manual out tonight and look for it unless someone can tell me where it is located. I think you may be mistaken but I hope that I am just an idiot. Actually, I may be an idiot anyway.
Jfigueroa1 -- I had the brake pad "clunk", but my dealer fixed it the last time I brought it in. I don't know what they did (my wife brought it in and did not ask), but whatever it was, it worked!
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I bought (leased) an '03 CRV EX 4x4 in Atlanta GA for 21,900 which included pistriping and mud flaps. Just be careful when leasing; they had to redo the lease paperwork 4 times since they kept screwing up. My payment was at 350 per month originally, but when they finally had it right it was at 315. Helluva difference. NEVER trust the finance guy, ALWAYS read the contract.
Also, does anyone else thing the radio is just so far away that it's annoying to change the station?
does the same, what I do if I know that I will be stuck there and moving slow I place the v in 2nd gear but, you have to be easy on the pedal, remember the v will take off on 2nd so it will be slower.
Greetings from sunny Miami.
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This time, whenever my CR-V leans towards the rear driver side, I hear a rough noise, somewhat of a croaking very repetitively and quickly.
This sometimes happens whenever a bump actually hits the rear driver side wheel. Accelerating up a hill or driving over a large mogul, at least there is pressure to the wheel, the noise arises.
I'm suspecting something loose in the suspension. It is difficult to reproduce to the dealership though. Any opinions? Thanks!
I checked the tachometer this am - CR-V idles consistently at 900 rpms in all settings you suggested except upon starting when it idles at 1500 rpms until shifted into gear and then drops back to 900 rpms. { It didn't idle at 1500 rpms upon first start-up until the Honda technician tried to "adjust" the idle to relieve the vibration. Is this normal? It used to be 700 rpms as well } .
Another observation. Have you noticed your gas guage registering 1/4 or less and upon filling up, your gas tank only takes 8-10 gallons in what is supposed to be a 15 gallon capacity tank? I have never put in full capacity because of the reading on the guage.
Thanks for your help.
Maybe someone else can answer your gas fill problem, I seldom worry about fillups or gas milage.I know it was discussed on these message boards so ask. "Good Luck and Happy Thanksgiving"
I live in Quebec so I know what snow is. We have had 3 storms already and I have no problem getting around. Your major concern is brakeing and snow tires will icrease this at least 50%.
By the way, just for the info, I've taken some time to read some of the other critiques about the CR-V 2002. I've got two of the same problems others have mentioned; one..my check engine light also went on (and stayed on) at about 4200 miles. Honda wasn't able to explain the problem, but reset the computer. No problems since. Gas cap gets tightened 5 clicks now. Two, I have that same "clunk" noise coming from someplace under the chassis when I'm either backing or accelerating under a load of gravity (up or down an incline for example) when starting up cold. This began just after I had the vehicle looked at by Honda at 4200 miles. No degredation to performance, just a wierd idiosyncracy to the vehicle!! In a way it's comforting to know it's just not me alone here experiencing these things. Anyway, I've rambled enough. Thanks in advance for tire advice. Happy Thanksgiving to all. -Mike
The clunk you described sounds like the brake problem I (and many others ) have had -- if so, it is the brake pads readjusting in the calipers after braking going one way, then changing direction (i.e. reverse to forwards or vice versa) and braking again. Does it only clunk after your first brake after changing direction? If so, this might be the cause. My dealer adjusted the pads and the clunk went away.
i know cars good enough to let you know that there's not a single car on the road where idle can not be adjusted in some way. or fixed. your idle speed unit probably is acting up. get to 25K miles and sell the car or swap it to a new one. you'll go past 36K - you on your own, and it ain't cheap to fix. good luck.
i have a common sense name to this: piece of donkey's dunk tires, made by famous bridgestone/firestone corp, owned by who? - our good old buddy ford! messages here just confirmed this.
so, my verdict is - if you plan on driving this car for more than 25000 miles(or in snow/ice/slippery stuff) - get rid of them and buy something reasonable, like michelin or toyo.
h-rated (speed up to 130mph, price in brackets, from the best to better)
goodyear eagle ultra grip gw-2 (132)
dunlop sp winter sport m2 (126)
pirelli winter 210 snow sport (155)
bridgestone blizzak lm 22 (130)
nokian hakkapelitta nrw (157)
with nokian having the best snow traction and dunlop the best ice braking
q-rated tires (speed up to 99mph)
kumbo i'zen stud kw 11 (50)
michelin arctic alpin (85)
dunlop graspic ds-1 (55)
gislaved nordfrost II (75)
nokian hakkapelita q (85)
with dunlop beating everything else in cost to performance in traction/braking (but has only fair emergency braking). all tires tested with ABS, on packed snow, ice rink, wet surface. CR acknowledges that ABS disengagement significantly changed the braking characteristics.
(In forums.vmag.com: Jennings, Jays, Bacino, Letia, htouwncrv and me have a CR-V EX 2002 with vibration at idle).
At about 13500 km on my CR-V 2002 EX, I noticed that when at idle or in reverse, there is noticeable vibration that can be felt in the steering wheel and even the seat(practically the whole front end of the car). This vibration was not felt when the car was brand new. When put into neutral or park, the vibration within the car is gone but idle is not perfect.
My first visit at the dealer: retighted all supports of motor. Result: vibration is always present. I taked the cr-v past 6 pm and it was to late to talk with the dealer.
The day after, I have talk with the dealer. He wants to test my cr-v again and will pass to me an other car during appointment.
This appointment will be in December. I will give a brief about that to you.
Give me a brief of your discussion with Honda.
Thanks in advance!
This vibration problem can also be felt when the car is idling. Although not as obvious as at 65mph, it's still there. But i can't recall i had this problem in the past.
Is it because of the weather? I am in Mass. It's getting extremely cold recently.
Did anyone experience the same problem? Thanks in advance.
slip and slides when it rains.Yes it vibrates (steering wheel) when I'm driving around 75mph. Overlooking all of this I'm thinking of getting a 2003. Any suggestions? Are the 2003 noises? Thanks in advance.
My only complaints:
1. Rear seat middle head restraint had to be removed due to vision problem.
2. Intermittent wipers need more than one speed.
3. Cheap plastic (that scratches very easily) in the rear cargo compartment and where the front seat seat belt latches hit the A pillars when not in use.
4. Firestone Dueler H/T tires suck in wet weather since day one. Will definitely break down and get some new tires before 25K.
5. Oil filter is small, horizontally mounted, and too hard to get to. Same as my 2000 Accord SE. I guess this is a common Honda affliction ... along with crummy tires.
The important thing is that my wife loves this car and it has been everything we had hoped for. She drove her last car (a Celica) for 160K and plans to do the same with this one.
It is nice to know that he is so interested in trying to beat Hondas reputation to death and never succeeds. Must be getting frustrated!
Can we have this moved into a room where more people can find it Edmunds?? Along with the other rooms for Liberty problems, Toyota problems ect..
My first test drive was a 2003 CRV top of the line. I could not believe all the road noise I heard in the cabin!
I could hear the tires on the road which tended to be quite loud. (Bridgestones). My Accords were never as loud as I encountered with the CRV.
My second test drive was a Subaru Forester which really drove like a car. It was a lot more quiet but the cabin looked cheap. Did notice Bridgestone tires were also on the Subaru.
Lastly, I test drove a Toyota RAV L. This vehicle was really quiet as compared to the CRV and Forester. This vehicle also had Bridgestone tires that I barely heard.
They wanted full list on the CRV (2 on the lot), $250.00 over cost on the Forester (at least 30 on the lot) and $450.00 over cost on the RAV 4(only 1 L and 4 quick order package models on the lot).
I read where the RAV4 is rated #1 in the JD Powers survey as well as #1 in Consumer Reports in its class. The CRV and Forester are ranked right up there.
Anyone give me any ideas how they like their CRV?
Have you encountered any problems? I have been always a Honda person so this is going to be a very difficult discussion for me.