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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions



  • We recently had a similar problem with a 97 as the cars are different it may not be this. our electric fan had stopped working properly. it runs at two speeds and automaticaly kicks on when the A/C is on. here is a way to check if it is working let the engine idle until it gets hot. Make sure the A/C is off if the fan doesn't come on it should be replaced. it will work while the A/C is on but while the A/C is on it will not run at a fast enough speed to cool the engine. It needs the extra juice from the temperature sensor to run faster. It's weird and can be deceiving since you think the fan is working but it isn't working properly. Also just general knowledge when you are driving over 45 miles an hour their is enough air flow over the radiator to keep any engine cool. if it began to overheat traveling at high speeds pray it's your thermostat because if your water pump goes it is going to cost you big $$ to fix. Also dont rule out that your temperature sensor might be bad and is not sending the electrical juice to the fan you can use a trouble light to figure it out. once your engine begins to run hot you can unplug the fan and check to see if any power at all is being sent to the fan. if no power is getting to the fan it's probably the sensor. sensors are cheaper than fan motors. I would suggest a junk yard to buy the whole fan motor and shrowed it will make the replacement easier. We found a brand new complete one at a junk yard for $120 vice the $300 we would have paid for just the motor at the dealership. Don't waste your time going to part stores they'll say they have a motor that will work but trust me it wont.
  • Jed I hope this gets to you before you do any costly repair I just posted a message to another problem the mesage is #413 like one of the other replys I think it is your fan even though it is running it may not be running fast enough. this same problem stumped me for a long time. I hope that Janet from message #317 also sees this before she takes it to a garage and possibly spends alot for repairs I've read over alot of this forum tonight. and I think I have seen every one of the problems on my wifes 97. Also I am not a mechanic so I could be very wrong but most cars these days run with a sealed cooling system. Any trapped air shouldn't stay trapped for long it will soon be pusshed out by the coolant and evntually escape through the overflow. wich may be where the leak was coming from for janet in message #317 Her vehicle may just have been spewing hot coolent from her overflow, its what that little nosile hole at the top is for.
  • I have a 98 Sebring that one morning suddenly would not start. I have replaced the fuel filter and gas seems to be getting to the engine, we have replaced the distributor, coil, rotor and plug wires. We took one plug wire and plug out, cranked the car holding the plug/wire close to a ground, "No spark or arch". Their is current coming out of the coil but the car just cranks, it won't fire up.
    Any ideas,
  • I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring, my windshield washer does not work, the wipers work fine. We tried replacing the multi function switch, still not working, the holes are not clogged, does anyone has any other suggestions....PLEASE HELP
  • I had the same problem

    Have them check the ground wire behind the headlights
  • kmnkmn Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 limited and have owned it since day 1. I live in Boston and have never had a problem w/ the snow on the top. It is vert easy to clean off. I turn my car on in the morning and let it warm up w/ the snow still on the roof, then when it is warm I use a brrom and push the snow off. That should work.
  • kmnkmn Posts: 3
    I have had my rear view defroster repaied 9 times at the dealership. As I write this it is being repaired for the 10th, yes 10th time. The dealership accused my of doing 2 things

    #1 using the space that the top fold into as storage space (which by the way I don't)

    #2 pulling the wires off the window on purpose because I like having my car in the shop.....
  • Hi Oldengineer,

    I saw the reply you made to "raymo1" about chaanging the lightbulb in his 2001 Sebring, but I have to disagree,
    unless I mis-understood something here ?

    I have the same problem, and must replace the "drivers" side lightbulb. This side is different from the passenger side, as it has absolutely no space behind the headlight to insert your hand. At least the passenger side is accessible.

    The only way to remove is as you stated, is to remove the two screws holding the headlight assembly. After doing this however, I could not slide the headlight assembly forward. Doesn't seems to want to slide out or budge.

    Is there another screw which must be removed ? Or does a piece of the front cowling have to be removed ?

    I'm frustrated and confused. The dealership offers no help.
    Again, this is a 2001 Sering convertible.

    Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
    You can email me also at "".

  • Hello,

    I to have a 01 Sebring convertible. Cannot seem to remove the headlight assembly (on driver's side).

    There is absoultely "no room" to get your hand behind to pop-out the bulb. I tried what response you receive from "oldengineer". Basically to remove the two bolts holding the headlight assembly. Even after doing this,
    I could not slide the assembly forward or out of the car.
    Wouldn't budge !

    Is there soemthing else I should know ? Called dealership,
    but they're useless !

    If you were successful in removing the headlight assembly and replacing the bulb, could you please share this information with me. Will be greatly appreciated!

    FYI... Wait until you have to change the battery, good luck! You have to remove the driver's front wheel, and then the outer wheel-well cover. A real trip!

    Those "high-paid" engineers at Chrysler, should be whipped, for some of the designs of this car.

    Thanks for any help you can provide!
  • My car was a 2001 4 door sedan. I suspect that the convertible body is different. I suggest you jump on one of the Chrysler forums such as Allpar or automotiveforums and ask the question. I've never even looked under the hood of one of these convertibles so I can't advise further.
  • Thanks for the information, much appreciated!
    I'll check out both these websites.
  • I have a 99 Sebring with 80K miles. I was driving home one day when the accelerator stuck. When you press down on the gas pedal the accelerator sticks, it doesnt unstick if you pump the pedal. I checked the carpet to see if it was that but it wasnt.
    Any idead of what it could be?
  • I know it's been a long time since this posting;i just bought a 97 Sebring convertible JXi and have the same problem.if you'd e-mail the pix from that file, I'd really appreciate it.Thanks!
  • Hi all, new 2005 Sebring Touring owner here. Ive been reading some posts and getting a little scared for future problems I may encounter. Any heads up for my Sebring??
    Also there are a lot of Sebrings(Lxi, Jxi, Touring...) where does mine stand in these line ups? Thx in advance
  • PLEASE HELP. I have a 2000 conv jxi and the seat belts will not work. Everything else in the car is OK, but the belts ( drivers and Pass both ) will not release from the headrest. Is there a quick fix to this problem so that I can pull the belts out. Here in the state of SC it is a hefty fine for not wearing the seat belts. I think the problem is in the control module located under the center console, but until I can get that replaced IS there any way to manually release the belts from the headrest or a way to bypass the locking system so the belts can be used
  • eisojeisoj Posts: 3
    This happened to me shortly after I purchased my sebring back in 99 (it's a 2000 jxi limited). I thought the car had become possessed! Took it to the dealership, where I had just had it serviced. Turns out that somebody clipped a wire or something (I'm not a mechanic), and the air intake valve sucked it in and got stuck. The mechanic was very embarrassed, and took a good deal of ribbing from his colleagues. Maybe there's something in your intake valve?
  • eisojeisoj Posts: 3
    Did you ever find out what the problem with the fluid was? What about the lugnut problem? Any further occurrences?

    Reason I'm asking? I also have a 2000 Jxi, and am having similar problems (although my lugnuts haven't come off, the sound I'm hearing is the same as you described.)
  • skitzskitz Posts: 2
    I have a '97 LXi. The front right caliper seems to grip a LOT harder than the left, and is thus wearing very fast. It wears down within around 30k miles and at this point is now starting to grind. I'm going to replace the rotors, but the calipers are new. Any thoughts? Could there be a kink in the left line, or maybe the bleed valve be open a little? Anyone ever have this happen?
  • I have a 2002 LXI I just started having the exact same problem you are. Did you find a solution? I was getting ready to pull starter off, but it looks like a monster of a job. I would like to here if anyone found a solution before I take the starter off for no reason.
  • Was running fine. One day it wouldn't start (not enough battery). I replaced the battery and now it turns but won't start. Any suggestions?
  • I just purchased a '01 sebring convert with the same problem, ie. blows cold air at idle but desired hot air at 1500rpm and above; I was about to change the thermostat, thinking it was stuck open; when I decided to top off the coolant recovery tank. I added about one quart of anti-freeze and lo and behold the heat started coming out at idle. try it an let us know!
  • I'm having the same problem with my 98, however I have to remember to try it before starting the car. Sometimes it releases, but if I don't I'm worried all the way to my destination. :cry:
  • Did the car stop stalling after the distributor was replaced? During the past month, my car has died while driving several times. The first time I was at the top of a bridge, and the car lost all power and died. IT would not restart, and they replaced two belts and the thermostat. Three days later it died again while going 60 mph, but started right back up after being restarted. I took it to the dealership, and after two days of driving it and testing it they could not find anything wrong with it. They said that it was bad gas, and suggested adding heat to the car. Over the next two weeks, it would die while driving and start back up. I took it to two other mechanics, and no one could figure it out. The dealership said that if it died and did not restart to have it towed in. Well, yesterday it died and would not restart at all. It was towed into the dealership, and sat overnight. Apparently it started right up again this morning so they dont know what is the problem. My car has been in and out of the dealership since I purchased it. It is a beautiful car and runs great, but is in the shop all the time. I have had numerous mechanical issues ( engine and transmission replaced, door panels have fallen off, sunroof leaked, passenger door handle broke, several belts, tires, water pump, windshield resevour replaced, speed sensor, and several other things). It is a 1999, and it has 168,000 miles on it. The problems started at 20,000 miles, and it rums great most of the time.... but I cant drive a car that randomly dies while driving down the interstate. IF ANYONE HAS ANY IDEA HOW TO FIX IT PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!
  • I had the same squealing problem (it was really bad) and it was the serpentine belt. The belt wasn't bad, so all they had to do was tighten it and the squealing went away.
  • I had the same problem. The windshield washer pump had to be replaced. IT is a $15.00 part if you do it yourself. It is fairly easy to replace.
  • you are low on coolant and you have air in the system. put coolant in it when cool then leave coolant resavor cap off and start car let it warm up it will bubble air out of system when car is warm check level and put cap back on. it will work then but you still have a leak somewhere. my 02 v-6 did the same thing
  • Hello,
    I own a 2000 Sebring JXI conv.
    I was wondering if anyone else has had to replace either the tumbler system in the cars ignition or the whole module that wraps around the steering column. My key won't turn in the ignition ( when the car is cold ) but will turn easily after a fair amount of jiggling. Any help would be appreciated.
  • There is a recall that pertins to this. You may want to see if your car has had this done.I have pasted it below (from Carfax):
    NHTSA campaign number 02V186000: On certain passenger vehicles equipped with 2.5L V6 engines, the throttle control cable can fray causing the throttle to bind or stick. This could potentially result in a loss of throttle control, increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers will replace the throttle cable assembly. Owner notification began August 5, 2002. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact DaimlerChrysler at 1-800-853-1403.
  • The ingnition key on my 98 sebring will not turn If I get lucky after a hour I will get it turn and start, I also noticed if I leave the key in it it will turn the next time. Any Ideas!
This discussion has been closed.