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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions



  • I have a 2002 Convertible I purchased in Oct 2005. I keep reading that the 2.7 engine has a sludge problem. Does anyone know the best way to detect and prevent this? Since the car is out of warranty, has anyone purchased a seperate warranty that covers this?
  • I've owned 3 Cars with the 2.7 - An Intrepid, and 2 Sebrings. Have never had a sludge problem with any of them. I change the oil every 3K with Premium oil ( Castrol GTX) and use premium oil filters. Used for business travel, all of them made it to about 100K before I traded them in.

  • Hope you fixed it by now but if not here is what I found:
    Had same problem....your low on coolant....your radiator cap leaks and you lose coolant very slowly...but the line to the overflow tank is plugged so you think you have plenty of coolant.....replace cap $4.75.....and clear blockage in line and top off at radiator....been 2 years and hasn't reoccurred
  • I cant find the 3 resistors from your directions. Could you please give me some more details as to their exact location? Thanks.
  • pulserpulser Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 sebring limited with 5600 miles and on
    satuday 1/14/2004 while on driveing at about 60 mph
    the motor with out warning blew ,sending a rod thru
    the block , now I was told this is a problem with
    2.7 chysler motors
  • Do you mean 56,000?
    try this link on the 2.7, don't know if it is what you are looking for.
  • dmhcttdmhctt Posts: 2
    That's exactly what happened to my car. In order to check for the sludge problem they actually have to crack the engine open. I bought my car in 05 it's an 01. It came cheap because it has high mileage on it. I brought it back to the dealership within a month and a half because my car was sluggish and my engine was knocking. They sent me to a garage just down the street where I found out the majority of my lifters were collapsed and that my engine was completely sludged up. It took three weeks start to finish to get everything repaired. The garage told me to change the oil once a month so it wouldn't sludge up all over again. According to the carfax report my car had never had major problems. Whoever drove it before me was an idiot.
  • dmhcttdmhctt Posts: 2
    I've had nothing but problems with this car. A month and a half after I bought it I found out half my lifters were collapsed and my engine was completely sludged up. It got repaired but not until the dealership and the warranty company argued for a while about who was going to pay to have it repaired. I made it very clear I wouldn't do it and it took a call from a lawyer to get them to start the repairs. The car is a piece of junk. They didn't even touch any of my other problems. I'm having some minor electrical issues. My dash and rearview mirror lights won't stick with a brightness. If I turn my turn signals on my dash lights dim and brighten as if they're tied in. My radio...well that's just totally kaputt. The whole unit flashes on and off and I can't just replace it because it's a two part unit. The radio up above and the disc changer down below. I asked about replacing it and they told me to just cap off the wires running from the disc changer. I always end up driving to work in silence. The dealership siad they'd replace the radio. They lied. My front end also makes kind of a funky sound. At first I described it as sounding like a duck quacking or something. I noticed another person describing a sound as an old rocking chair creaking. That sounds about right. You can hear it best driving close to the curb or close to the building where you get the echo. THe dealership didn't hear a thing of course and won't pay to have whatever it is fixed. My trunk release, the one next to the steering wheel doesn't work. My brakes squeak so its probably time to replace them and god knows what else considering the funny sounds out of the front end. At one point my airbag light came on for no apparent reason and several weeks later after no one could tell me what was wrong the airbag light turned off and I haven't seen it since. I haven't had any tire or wheel problems thank god. I think Chrysler just needs to do a total recall. The only redeeming qualities the car has is now that my engine is clean it has power to spare, and as tall as I am (5 11) I have room to stretch. All in all its a poor piece of work at best. :lemon:
  • My 2000 jxi is starting to nickel and dime me. I have just turned 95000 miles and have found some trouble codes and I am looking for some help.It seems that I have 1)an engine speed input circuit malfunction 2) a bank 1 circuit malfunction 3) a manufacturer control ignition system or misfire 4) two evap emission control systems leaks small and large. I have just cleared these codes after my trans downshifted and my tach redlined @ 50 mph. My tach also redlined from a dead stop @ around 20 mph. If anyone has an answer, please let me know.
    Thanks for your time.
  • mine does that too, i havent checked yet but it sounds like your thermostat.rick
  • Hi all, I have a 96 Sebring Conv JXI, I noticed that the coolant will come out the overflow after the car has been running fo 30 min or so.
    I also only get heat when the car is only moving, not at idle. The head gaskets were done a few weeks ago at the dealer, and there is no foam in the oil or coolant smelling exhaust. The temp guage stays steady 4 lines up from bottom.

    Could this be a thermostat issue or something bigger?
  • iadiad Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 96 sebring conv. 20 amp starter fuse under the hood keeps blowing. Won't start, does anyone have a fix?
  • We are having the same trouble with our 2000 convertible.
    Intermittent stalling, sometimes at high speeds and sometimes at low speeds. One other symptom is that while it stalled on the highway last time, I realized that the gas pedal lost all resistance. It almost felt like the return spring had been removed or broken. The pedal returned to the up position when I let off of it, but it had no friction or resistance.
    Once we sat for a couple of minutes, the car started right up and drove for another few hundred miles before it stalled again.
    Any other ideas on where to look?
  • Change the starter, it's got a bad spot in the windings or solenoid. It will do this periodically depending on where the starter stops rotating.
  • hello
    We purchased a 1995 sebring used, and have so far just have only put minor repairs in. Untill now sometimes my car does over 60 mph but only on a cold day in hell. I have had the car for 3 mos and I have gotten over 60 mph's only twice!!!! Any info on what the problem could be????
  • I would need more details, but it sounds like you aren't running on all cylinders or have a clogged fuel filter.

    Just info to everyone, I've been reading here a while.
    If you buy a used car you need to give it a serious tune up. You have no idea what kind negligence the car has had to date. By "serious tune up" I mean change all the fluids, all the filters, plugs and all ignition cables, all belts including the timing belt, pcv valve, clean the battery terminals and the grounding posts, etc. If you can do the work yourself, we are talking about $400 in parts and a few days work. It will pay for itself 10 times over.

    dhudson, I believe this would solve your problem as well.
  • We are having the same trouble with our 2000 convertible.
    Intermittent stalling, sometimes at high speeds and sometimes at low speeds. One other symptom is that while it stalled on the highway last time, I realized that the gas pedal lost all resistance. It almost felt like the return spring had been removed or broken. The pedal returned to the up position when I let off of it, but it had no friction or resistance.
    Once we sat for a couple of minutes, the car started right up and drove for another few hundred miles before it stalled again.
    Any other ideas on where to look?
  • Sounds like the EGR Valve. Also I see thet there is a TSB for a similar problem.
    NUMBER: 18-020-01, Engine - Rough Idle, Hard Start, or Start & Stall

    I've no idea why the pedal lost resistance or if there is a corolation. I would have to look under my own car to see.
  • I have a 2002 LX and I bought the car with 19K and all was fine through 03-04. Late last Winter, I noticed a groaning squawking sound in the front end at start and stop. At first I thought it needed a lube job but it is factory sealed. I as well do not notice the noise when the weather gets warmer. I will llook into new struts since now at 70K they may be due. When and if i sell the car it will be in the warm weather.

  • oldcemoldcem Posts: 309
    Just went through a number of dealer visits to get the front suspension on my 05 Sebring to quit groaning and moaning. Finally got that fixed about a month ago. Last week the front pump in the auto tranny died, and, the car's in the shop again for 2 weeks. All this aggravation and she just turned over 30K miles. Come on, Chrysler, surely you can do better than this!! End of rant. :sick:
  • I bought a 99 sebring coupe 2 days ago, same noise drove me nuts, sounded like I needed a complete front end your hood , there is a black rubber cap on top of your front struts, spray it generously with white lithium grease (it comes in a spray can,$3 at your local hardware store). The boot rubs on the metal housing and makes that awful noise. Incredibly anoying but harmless sound will disapear.
  • Trying to put on a new belt is there another pully i should back off other than the one on top it is a 98 convertible with the 6.Thanks scott3392
  • My 1995 Sebring has been acting like it has a fuel air mixture problem.At first the idle went,then it boggs out at 3500 rpms.Now it wont start.The map sensor and computer have been replaced.Sometimes when I get down the road the check engine light would be off and it would run decent,but not very often.My friend thinks it is an O2 sensor.If so which one and how big of a job is it?I would greatly appreciate any imput from anybody,I am all ears.THANKS!
  • joeh5joeh5 Posts: 3
    I just bought an 06 base sedan and the 4 cylinder is awfully loud. It seems to always sound like its idling high. I also have noticed a clicking noise in the steering wheel. Any ideas?

  • he11benthe11bent Posts: 24
    Spend the 12 bucks and buy the Hanes auto manual book at your local parts store. It will be the best money you ever spent.
    I would be more inclinded to think it is an EGR Valve before an O2 sensor, just my two cents.
  • kyfrankkyfrank Posts: 3
    Hello everyone. New here. I just bought a 97 LXi coupe with 87000 miles that looks and drives great. Problem that has surfaced is it will not start...sometimes. This has happened about 5 or 6 times after running from 1 minute to 30 minutes. Stop engine and it will not re-start. Cranks over fine, plenty of battery, all other electric functions operate - just won't start. Plenty of gas, I hear the fuel pump humming when I turn the key to run, just won't fire. The weird thing it will start after it "rests" for a few hours. Then it runs great. I searched this forum and did not see this same problem posted. HELP. Thanks. :confuse:
  • neonitisneonitis Posts: 11
    I gotta ask you, what fixed the problem with your '05 sebring on the groaning and moaning in the front suspension? i too have a '05 sebring convertible with only 22k miles and it moans and groans as you mentioned. And are you using 5-20W oil as the oil cap states?Have you been told to use only that viscosity on these 6 cylinder motors? thanks for your response. Hector
  • i hope someone else has had a similar problem. i have a 99 chrysler sebring with the v-6. runs fine until it runs for a while and it stalls, while driving or while at idle. new fuel pump and filter. i'm at a loss. could someone point me in the right direction please.
This discussion has been closed.