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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions



  • he11benthe11bent Posts: 24
    My haze was on the outside, by the way.
  • prodjbmprodjbm Posts: 1
    I have the vehicle listed in the title which had a belt sqeak, I tried to tighten the bolt on the tension pulley and the bolt broke off, was there something that was suppose to be loosened first, I didn't crank on it real hard and it broke off. Any tips on fixing this new problem

    Thank you
  • gerrodhgerrodh Posts: 1
    my 96 seebring wont start. my pops is really mad cause its actually his. it ran fine no problems to wal-mart then for a little ride about 5 or 6 miles. then i parked it at my girlfriends house and guess what, its still there. it turns over but will not start. i've been told by some people i asked that it could be the security system and it just needs to be reset and i've also been told that it could be the crank shaft sensor. i've personally never heard of this sensor but i guess anything is possible. so could you tell me if this is true and if it is how much $$ to fix?? please hurry :.( thanks :cry:
  • jlsridejlsride Posts: 2
    I have a 98 sebring conv.with similar problem. this is going to be my 3rd! starter in 6 years. the 20amp run/start/ign blows and I know it's time to go back to the shop. Is it just bad rebuilts -I'm going for brand new this time w/better warranty. I've had wiring traced from ignition switch to check short.
    Any ideas?
  • dijaresdijares Posts: 2
    Hey there,

    My son's 95 Sebring is going through the same thing right now. Two days ago, he went to leave the house (after having just got home), and his car wouldn't start. After about 20 minutes, it started up just fine. Then, about 20 minutes later, it just died on him while driving. It started up later on. Yesterday, on his way home from school (about 20 minutes drive time), it died again, and started about 20 minutes later. I had it towed to our mechanic (I wasn't going to risk him going through 5pm traffic for a 40 minute drive). Our mechanic has it running right now, waiting for it to die. He hooked it up to the computer, and he says it's coming back with the 'crank sensor' at '5 starts ago', which is about the exact time this started. He said it's better than the distributor, which what we originally thought. He said the part is about $100, but I don't know about labor. He's still waiting for it to die, and see what the computer says then.
  • bmaloufbmalouf Posts: 1
    I'm new here, but have had a real problem with my 2001 Sebring Convertible, with 25,000 miles. As I approach 55-60 mph, I hear a fairly loud tapping under the hood. Sounds more to the left side. It seems to quiet some after 60. I only hear it if my foot is on the gas at that speed range. If I decelerate, the noise lessens considerably.

    The dealer replaced the transmission 3 months ago, and claimed that the noise was gone. But now, in addition to hearing the same tapping I did before, I have a whine both accelerating and decelerating, even at low speeds. Replacing the trans didn't change anything for the better. I took it back, but they "couldn't hear anything", and gave me a real attitude. I figured I would drive the car for a while and see if maybe I was making too much of it. I've driven 3,000 miles since the trany change, but it is the same as it was. My warranty expired while my car was in the shop (there for over a week). I get really angry every time I get in my car now! The noise really gets to me. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • shartimeshartime Posts: 1
    I was on this forum this past week trying to get an answer to my 2004 Sebring clunk/thump suspension problem. I just had a front brake job (which I needed) at 30,000 miles and asked the mechanic to check into this for me. He went onto the AllData site, and found this service bulletin:


    DATE: September 24, 2004

    SUBJECT: Pop/Clunk Sound from front of vehicle.

    OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves installing 2 rivets in each front shock tower/wheel well area.

    MODELS: 2001-005 Sebring Convertible/Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan.

    SYMPTOM CONDITION: Vehicle produces an intermittent front end popping or clunk type sound while driving over road inputs that causes the body to come under a twisting load. This sound may also be produced when in park and idle by turning the steering wheel quickly, 90 degrees to the left and back to the right.

    DIAGNOSIS: If the vehicle operator describes the above symptoms, turn the steering wheel quickly 90 degrees to the left and back to the right while the transmission is in park and the engine is idle. If a popping or clunk sound is heard, perform the repair procedure.

    4 06033864 Rivet
    1 82300508 Corrosion inhibitor

    Pentastar Service Equipment Riveter
    W-HK150F or W-AK175ACH or equivalent

    LABOR OPERATION NO.: 23-85-85-90
    DESCRIPTION: Install rivets to shock tower/wheel house/both sides.
    AMOUNT TIME: 0.7 hrs.

    I hope this will help all who have complained about this problem earlier -- My mechanic is wonderful (I feel so lucky) and since I am still under warranty no problem -. Hope this helps..
  • lorietoupslorietoups Posts: 3
    Last night I drove my daughter's car and nothing felt abnormal..when I got home she got into to leave and it wouldn't start. All the lights are working. I see a lot of people saying the crank sensor, is that the same as a crank shaft sensor?? Where is it in the engine and is it very hard to replace. My husband is out of town so I'm trying to narrow down possibilites. I checked the #8 fuse in the engine, has a 20amp fuse that looks to be good.I've tried turning the key in the ignition several times to possibly reset..I was thinking it could have something to do with the alarm or key as well.I've seen a lot of people talking about reprogramming a key..???? I've ordered an owners manual-but in the meantime I need help, please.
    Is there a way to check to see if the Alternator is working and where is the belt...Anybody that could help, I would greatly appreciate.
  • he11benthe11bent Posts: 24
    The short is internal. Id buy one from Advance of Auto Zone with the life time warrantee and save the cost of additional purchases. Its a piece of cake to change.
  • he11benthe11bent Posts: 24
    If the head lights don't dim while trying to crank the engine, then change the starter.
  • lorietoupslorietoups Posts: 3
    Thanks.. I ended up getting it started. I replaced the #8 fuse in the engine (it didn't look bad though) and after that it started up-had to give it gas though to get it going. It didn't die though. Now, having other problems as well, it's shifting really hard from 1st to 2nd and it feels like it's going to die when you come to a stop, the idle drops really low then comes back up to about 1000.
    Getting frustrated and really nervous after seeing all the problems that Sebrings have. Since the battery was removed-do I need to reprogram anything??If the check engine light isn't coming on, where does it give you a code to tell you whats wrong. I tried turning the ignition switch on/off a few times to see if that worked but that didn't work. Seen some info about a crank shaft sensor too..My Grand Jeep Cherokee is on the brink as well...frustrated still thanks for your help!Lorie
  • snewbysnewby Posts: 1
    Ok - I'm looking for some advice with our 1996 jx 2.5L V6. We've had the car to the mechanic several times to diagnose the whine and get the "we don't hear it" or "it's wind noise" - now I'm not an idiot, and this isn't wind noise. Here are the symptoms:

    1 - at between 25 and 35 mph the noise starts as a very distinct whirring noise or whine coming from the left front wheel.
    2 - as you increase in speed the noise becomes higher in pitch
    3 - as you decelerate the noise reverses the course from 1 & 2 above and drops off below about 20 mph.

    It's been doing this off and on for about 4 years, and wasn't very noticable this winter (in Wisconsin it is cold), but during the spring and summer it is much more noticable. It is definately coming from the left front, seeing as when you drive by a concrete barrier (like those in a construction area) and the noise becomes very noticable as it reflects back at you.

    Doing some research on this topic - we've come up with a few possible causes - 1) brake wear indicator, 2) idler pulley/tensioner assembly or bearing, 3) wheel bearing, or 4) torque converter problem.

    Any help would be appreciated - this is the spring time curse with this car - just when we want to sell it.

    Thanks - Scott
  • I just purchased a 96 chrysler sebring convertible.
    Love the car until a week ago i was going down the road cruising @ 40-50 went to accelerate and nothing no engine sound or acceleration then the service engine light flickered when I got to a point to stop the codes coming out were 12 (from a previous incident, it doesn't seem to clear after three sucessfull runs)then 11 & 54 which are cam shaft and then the sensor, tool the advice of a family member I worship, and did not take it to the shop the service engine soon light went away and the codes went away aside from 12, then 5 days later the same occured except resulting in the car to die and there was some noise involved this time almost like running out of gas, backfiring honestly i don't know just lights flashing and noises going stoping and so on until leaving me stranded for fear that the timing belt broke. Had it towed home. Since took the cover off and the belt is tight and turns not as if something is seized up. no oil on the part of the belt have rotated too cause slippage.

    by the way the car had power the trans changed good.

    any ideas.
  • by the way 12 basically it has went dead at some point and my reliable family member was check out the air and was checking some relay
  • stumped97stumped97 Posts: 1
    My '97 with the 2.5L has ~160k. Almost time to put out to pasture but I won't let her go yet...
    [I did read all 60+ pages of the forum and have not found this one so here goes]
    The latest, failed emissions: replaced both O2 sensors and cat. Still not right so I replaced the distributor, rotor and cap. Now she won't go over 20mph. Put old distributor bacl in and same thing. Figure jumped timing belt...checked timing marks (all correct) and verified rotor at top dead center (cylinder 1). Now I changed the wires and checked all ground straps. While looking around I noticed that cylinders 1,3,5 have carbon on spark plugs, and 2,4,6 are wetted with gas. It seems that 2,4,6 are not firing. Is this possible? Any guesses? Before I sink the money into a PCM I really want to make sure that is it...after all '97 has a unique PCM that so far I can only find at a dealer. Any help or thoughts are greatly appreciated!
  • Was wondering if you ever found a reason or a fix to your problem. My wife's 2004 sebring convertible (LXi) is doing the EXACT same thing. We found that if we are driving on the interstate for a long period of time, when we exit off and slow down on the off ramp the car will begin to run very rough when we are almost stopped and in some cases completely kill. It starts right up again but that is dangerous. We have deffinitly had the engine surge while pulling into a parking spot.
  • I have found that if you get to a dealership that has a decent service department (mine is a Dodge dealer) and specifically ask about computer UPDATES / UPGRAPES then they can find one that will describe your problem of the surging and killing almost exactly. Takes about an hour according to my dealership (probably only 10 minutes but u know how that goes) and is covered by 3/36 base warranty. Might have to pay for it after the base warranty is up. Now keep in mind that this is the same dealer that I went to and described the exact problem to a different service guy and he said he had never heard of this problem before, never mentioned anything about an update, and suggested that it most probably would be the fuel system getting dirty and tried to sell me on getting the fuel system treatment service they sell at $170.00 which 'MIGHT' fix the problem...but its where HE would suggest starting. ITS THE COMPUTER UPGRADE and I was also told that MOST cars have some kind of upgrades for just depends on what kind of problems ur car might be having.
  • wbsjetswbsjets Posts: 1
    Have 2002 Sebring Convertible. Exact same problem. Low frequency noise, obviously rotational if car is cold. Last for 15 minutes or so. 55k. Took to dealer and left for three days. Concluded was bad right front hub bearing. Replace item. Noise continued. Left for two more days. Concluded was brake system noise. Took to Midas. Has full and complete brake job, new disc and pads. Noise continued. They put on lift, removed wheels and drove car and carefully listened. Noise level was reduced (no load on tires) but concluded was coming from right CV axel boot. Replaced CV axel. Noise continues.
    Intestingly, when they removed my CV axel they determined replacement unit was wrong size, so had to re-install my old unit. After doing so, noise now became a high pitched screech that also stopped after 15 minutes. Driving causes grease and oil to circulate and causes rotational metal to heat and expand. Friend guesses it must be differential problem since all other possibilities have been replaced. Any other suggestions?
  • a500hp6a500hp6 Posts: 1
    It does not seem to have the simple metal tab glued to the windshield like many other older cars.

  • i tryed to click on the web site to see pictures and it says web site can not be shown
  • nutzzzzznutzzzzz Posts: 1
    ok, so about a month ago my 96 sebring stalled at a red light and restarted with no problem... every now and then it will feel like it is losing power then go right back to normal.....i was at 69,000 miles so i had the complete tune up done (dis, roter, wire set,plugs) still did it. so then the diagnostic check told me i had a oxygen sensors gone i replaced them today...needless to say it ran great for about 20 miles then died at a redlight and restarted no problem, it immeaditly felt like i had released the gas pedal then ran just fine. im about to drive 9 hours in this car and i need to know what is wrong with it. is this car going to die on me on the interstate? could it be a fuel filter (i havent replaced it and cant say when it was last done) please somebody help me find out why this car wants to stall at redlights and is it going to make a 9 hour trip (18 round trip)?
  • so im trying to sell my 99 sebring jxi convertible, and all the sudden it starts to overheat. also in the winter the heater didn't work. my mechanic friend says its my thermostat. anyone know how much a new thermostat costs?
    also my drivers side window needs a new regulator, anyone know how much that costs?
  • jeff125jeff125 Posts: 2
  • jeff125jeff125 Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 sebring lxi and ill be driving down the road and all of the sudden the rpms will drop to 0 as if the car stalls then will restart. Everything else is still on like the radio and every thing and the local mechanic said that without the check engine light coming on its hard to tell whats wrong so i was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if anyone may possibly know whats wrong with it AND RPM GOSES ON AND OFF
  • breezerbreezer Posts: 1
    Have a97 Sebring JXI. Started making front-end noise bout three months ago.Finally called a tow truck as I was afraid to drive. Broke three out of five studs and lug nuts off day I called tow. :mad: Had it in shop for a week and they cannot find anything wrong! :cry: Just talked to a service mgr at a dealership and the way he talks, it is a problem Chrysler has had with this car. I am to take it to him next week. Will re-post if I get any answers! :confuse:
  • The best way to help prevent the sludging problem is to use synthetic oil. However, you have to start using it early on BRFORE the sludging problem begins. Also, don't switch from conventional oil to synthetic oil if your car has more than about 25,000 miles.
  • reinrammreinramm Posts: 1
    and it goes away a few seconds after I accelerate.

    I recently had to replace the engine and the starter on my 2000 Sebring.

    Is this yet another problem?

    Thanks, and please tell me if I gave too little info.

    My first post!

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    loose belt---power steering or AC probably. Inspect belt for glazing (burned from slipping too much), and either tighten or replace.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I have a 96 Conv. with 74,000 miles on it. Recently within the past few months while driving on the freeway my car will just start slowing down on it's own. I try to push gas pedal but it won't move. After I sit for about 30 minutes it seems to drive fine. The mechanic say they can't do anything until my check engine light comes on. It finally came on yesterday and they told me I need to replace O2 sensors, fuel filter, air filter, fuel injector service done, a tune up, and replace my rotors. They said it would cost aout $1100. My father in law wants to do it himself. One, is anyone else having this problem? If so what did you do? Two, can someone tell me where the O2 sensors are? PLEASE HELP!!!!
  • questnquestn Posts: 1
    I have a '04 Chrysler Sebring LXi Sedan with a 2.7 liter v6 flex fuel engine. I have 120,000 miles and haven't had problems until now. In the past few months it has became increasingly harder to fill my fuel tank. Then it the engine started dying. I first thought it was the fuel pump and I replaced it. By replacing the fuel pump I also replaced the fuel filter and sending unit according to the mechanic in the Chrysler Dealer, but it still isn't running correct. I have also found that the fuel tank is collapsing like it isn't getting air. Of course my check engine light isn't coming on so the dealerships cannot diagnose the problem. Does any one have any suggestions?
This discussion has been closed.