Calling Los Angeles-based car shoppers: Have you recently traded in (or plan to trade in) a car with negative equity (i.e. the amount you owe on your auto loan is greater than the car's value)? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 11/6 for details.

Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions

Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
edited March 2014 in Chrysler
Please share your Sebring problems and any solutions!

KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
«13456789

Comments

  • hallidayhalliday Member Posts: 2
    "Mee too". 98 Sebring convertible as well. We may have had the problem from the beginning, since we drove it every day, but we first saw the same behavior after we trailered the car to Phoenix when it was 1 year old. Sometimes it can sit longer, but sometimes after 2 days it will be dead dead dead. We had 3 or 4 batteries replaced under warranty and two different dealers say there was no drain in the system. Now that I think of it, it might have something to do with rain, since I remember it was raining at the train station last time it happened (March '05 in Virginia this time). I just can't remember if rain was an issue in Phoenix. (Yes, actually, it does rain in Phoenix.)

    Some low power component shorting out when it gets wet?

    Either of you notice rain being an issue?

    Gary
  • sjm308sjm308 Member Posts: 3
    My 2003 Sebring Limited Conv had the same problem with its 16" chrome factory wheels. Was having new tires mounted at all corners and the shop owner called me out back to show me the flaking chrome plating on the wheels where the tire bead makes contact. He said he sees this often on Chrysler chrome wheels. His solution is always to apply black goop on the tire beads before mounting them onto the wheels. This cuts back on the chances of air leaking out at the bead/rim contact area. Personally, if I find that in the future I need to replace the rims, I'll order new tires mounted on rims from a discount tire house like "Tirerack" or "Discount Tire" - not through Chrysler. No point in having the same problem all over again.
  • steve1947steve1947 Member Posts: 2
    I am in the proces of replacing my 3rd wheel. After the 2nd one I was told by the after-market wheel mfr. that Chrysler uses the "softest alumnium in the industry".Admittedly each replacement was necessitated by hitting potholes,but the impact didn't seem to be that serious.Is the "softest aluminum in the industry" statement valid? Has anyone had a similar experience? Does Chrysler offer any assistance in replacing the wheels?
  • mbaeschmbaesch Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 LXI. I previously owned a 97 JXI. The 97 was a dream to own. The 2001 is a different story. I like the new body/interior design but the shifting of the automatic transmission with the 2.7 is not as smooth as the 97 / 2.5 V-6. Anyone noticing the same with theirs? I have spoken to the dealership and they state it is operating normally. I beg to differ. It clunks when reversing and then moving into the forward drive gear. In addition the upshifting when accelerating is jumpy from one gear to the next. I have owned several Chryslers and this is the first automatic to operate this way.
  • beezybeezy Member Posts: 1
    My wife and I love the car, and just purchased another one (2002 LXI, different color.) But, the 2001 has not been without its problems:
    . Central command control module failed - interior lights wouldn't go off, etc. Replaced.
    . Passenger window wouldn't operate - replaced window motor.
    . Rear window defroster failed - replaced entire rear window.
    . Front windows don't lower completely when lowering the top. Haven't taken it in yet.
  • kmconnorskmconnors Member Posts: 1
    I have had sixteen flat tires since owning my '98 Sebring -- I cannot get to the bottom of the issue, though much like Steve above I have had two rims replaced (at the dealerships cost) but the dealership refuses to acknowledge that the rims are faulty. Aggravating enough that I may just sell the car!!!! I've shelled out about $1,000 of my own $$ to fix the repeated tire issues. I complained to the Better Business Bureau and that at least got the dealership to start paying for the repair costs and to replace the two rims, which is the least they can do, since the car is unreliable due to the tire problems......
  • dianalldianall Member Posts: 1
    I bought a brand new (leftover) 2001 Chrysler Sebring in Nov. 2001. It was a quiet ride...for about 2000 miles. Dealt with a rattle under the middle of the car which was remedied after 2 visits by tightening exhaust. Around 4500 miles noticed a loud creaking noise in the front end when turning. Have been back five times since. So far the Five Star Chrysler Dealer service dept has replaced the control arms on the left side, the stabilizer links on both sides, and lubed an area on the tire rod which "should" have been factory lubed. In between all that I was told those noises are normal. Within the last two weeks I took it to 2 independent service technicians. They feel it is in the struts. Chrysler said they cannot authorize repair
    because they cannot hear the noise. Also, the warmer the weather, the less sound is heard. Pulling out of my garage in the morning it sounds like an old rocking chair for several miles. I will be leaving my car for them to drive "cold" again. There is currently 8000 miles on it. In addition to the creaking noise in the front end, I notice a clicking noise from the steering column, and a shift in the seat on quick acceleration/stops which I am told is normal for these vehicles. The garage did replace what they said was a defective bolt in the seat, it is only a little better. This is my 4th new Chrsler product and I am greatly disappointed. I never returned to the garage with the others.
    Anyone else having problems with their 2001 Sebring sedan?
  • ddeboer44ddeboer44 Member Posts: 1
    humming trans up 60 mps . what is causing this .
  • bbunchbbunch Member Posts: 7
    Not to sound dumb, but how and the heck do you change the air filter on this thing?(2001 convert) I have a K&N ready to go. I found the snaps and can see the top of the old filter but with all the piping and wiring etc. the top "circular housing" wont get out of the way. Its ironic that in the plastic it says "to service filter see owners manual". But when you look in the owners manual, all you get is the schedule to change it. K&N didnt provide instructions as well. HELP!
  • shirleysshirleys Member Posts: 2
    Have owned my first mid life crisis convertible with the 2000 LXI. Have been a Chrysler purchaser for 30 years, but next month I believe I'm going NISSAN. Have had plenty of trouble with the clicking in the engine, windows that won't go down, total replacements of parts not warranted replacement with only 20,000 miles on the thing and the inferior interiors. I am not going back.
  • parranparran Member Posts: 1
    Similar to dianall, I purchased a used 2000 JXI with a little more than 13K miles. Have noticed the creaking and crunching under the left front when driving over changes in grade and while turning. Dealership never heard the noise while under warranty but also replaced the control arms on the left side, the stabilizer links, etc. Suspect struts too - will be taking it in for that noise, brakes (an annual event), and work on the top. Have also had the cruise control replaced, AC button replaced, and both rear tail lights. Now the elastic straps that keep the header close to the top are wearing out and the header in the top is sagging. Although fun to ride with the top down - I'll be trading soon. Not worth the worry.
  • oursleroursler Member Posts: 1
    we recently purchased 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. It seems there is a lot of body flex when going in & out driveway or on rough roads. The popping or groaning noise seems to come from the body binding on the doors. Has anyone had this problem and if so what was the fix?
  • zack49zack49 Member Posts: 2
    ... a sebring convertible. have wanted a ragtop for awhile.could also use an alternative to my long bed ext. cab f-250 diesel. rented a sebring convertible on a trip to nawlins'. while going thru several forums have read some real horror stories; mostly concerning jx series. things like car filling with water in heavy rains (top up ), body panels falling off doors, mystery electric problems. i truly enjoyed the ltd. experience i had with the car. the 2 used jxi's i've driven ( both 99's w/mid 40k on the odometer ) had front end shimmys & the seat retaining bolts were rusty. i've heard that the rack & pinion bushings are not available so the whole unit gets replaced, the intake manifold requires diassembly for spark plug replacement, & a few other quirks.
    what do you owners have to say?
    thanks,
    zack
  • candyman85233candyman85233 Member Posts: 43
    I used to have a 97 sebing convertible jx and was very disappointed with it. In 2001, Chrysler basically remade the car, and it is a MUCH IMPROVED car. I am actually considering purchasing a 03 Limited, after test driving the Toyota Solara, BMW 3 series, Saab 9-3 and Volvo c70 (all convertibles). Good luck! Go test drive an 01-03 models and but those, not the old ones!
  • jin_satxjin_satx Member Posts: 40
    whit4,

    Hope your car is still under warranty. Just had a similar humming in my 2002 at 6k miles. Damn noise was so loud that it was driving me crazy. Well, my dealer heard it, knew what it was immediately, and fixed it right away. It was a front wheel hub. Mine was a defective left front hub (drivers side), but I'd have them check both. Only took the dealer about 45 min. to fix. Unfortunately, this is starting to sound like an endemic problem in the 2001/2002, therefore, if you're just out of warranty, I'd have them contact Chrysler for a free fix. As for me, with the problems I've had lately, I'm buying an extended warranty in the next year.
  • zack49zack49 Member Posts: 2
    drove 00'-a jx & a jxi & an 01'lxi & 02'lx. all 4 had a slight wobble in the front end. the lx's had noticably more road noise rear view mirror & window rattles. top noise on one was at the windshield & would be an wasy fix by adjusting tie down clamps. the jx's actually looked better as far as body fit & interior finish. they also had noticably less power & weaker brakes. now thinking about another auto maker, mitsubishi perhaps.
  • plrodplrod Member Posts: 13
    I purchased a 00 JX ex rental with 15K 2 years ago and while I've only logged 10K during that time, I'm happy with the car but I did have it go into limp mode once because of a tranny problem. That was fixed with the rebuilding of the transmission valve body. I had noticed some clunking when going from neutral to reverse and sometimes from park to reverse prior to this and this has not happened again.


    The breaks on these cars (at least 1st generation)are very noisy when cold. They squeak alot when cold but once they warm up that goes away. Dealer says it's normal with the OEM pads - I'm still on the original set with 25K. Anyone using a pad they can recommend that doesn't make this noise?


    Prior to purchasing the car I researched here and elsewhere and became aware of the TSB's that were out on my model. One in particular addressed the water in the cabin issue and offered a fix which the dealer did on my car. I'd never had this happen bc my car is mostly garaged but I asked for the fix to be done and they did it. Check out the TSB's on this site or at: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/service1.cfm?SearchTopic=Vehicle


    My car's original 3/36 waranty just expired, now I have 7/75 extended warranty. During the last two years my car would go to the dealer for every little thing. They replaced: all weather stripping, passenger visor/mirror, couple of brake lights which kept going out at first, the transmission valve train and various other details which I can't even recall w/o getting out the file.


    Bottom line is: Let others pay the depreciation of the new car, buy the last model year of any American car (never the first) used while still under factory warranty, then get an extended warranty (a must for Chryslers IMO) which will cover you for the time you will own the car. If the car has many problems during your time with it, unload it around 1 year before the extended warranty expires. I realize this formula doesn't work for everyone but I've grown to like it. I do like new cars too, just haven't bought one since 95.


    On the wheels, my JX came with 15" steelies w/hubcaps and man those stock tires would squeel around the twisties - they didn't hold the road at all. I purchased aftermarket 17's and am running 215 50 series and the car handles much better. I've also installed an aftermarket rear sway bar which further improves cornering.


    Safe motoring!

  • chinajohnchinajohn Member Posts: 4
    Any clue why the dealer has asked me to come back in after I just leased an 03 Sebring two weeks ago and sign another agreement just so they can change the excess mileage charge from 0.15 to 0.20?? What if I say no thks, I'll just keep what I have that you signed already? They tell me it is now Chrysler policy and they just got the word.
  • leebealeebea Member Posts: 25
    I've never leased a car, but to me a contract is a contract. If they screwed up, they eat the extra .05. I think any lawyer would agree.
    Good luck,
    Lee B.
  • jsosinski9966jsosinski9966 Member Posts: 1
    Bought my 2001 Sebring Sedan LXI in July 2001. Loved it from the first time I saw it in 2000. Several irritating problems though:

    1.) 2-Months old - Rattle under middle of car. 5* Dealer tightened but every time there is a temperature change w/ weather (warm to cold) rattle comes back.

    2.) 4-Months old - Whinning/Humming Noise coming from front end (transmission) dealer says not transmission. Replaced rt/frnt bearing hub assembly. (only after 4 trips to 5* dealer who couldn't duplicate noise) Happens usually between 30 & 45 mph & in cold weather only. Had tires rotated - noise coming back. (dealer deaf again)

    3.) Crunching noise when turning and braking at the same time. Dealer can't figure it out.

    4.) Rear brakes grind in reverse. Usually when wet & cold. Rear brakes replaced by warranty. Never stopped the problem.

    5.) Interior light flickering. Switch replaced.

    6.) January 2003 Heater went. Would only blow on level 4. Warranty - blower resistor faulted...resistor replaced.

    7.) Driver's side passenger window switch faulted - warranty repair

    So far no recalls - but Chrysler doesn't admit to anything being wrong w/ their vehicles.

    Love my car but these minor noises that can't be fixed are irritating. Wondering when they will turn into major fixes. Putting on alot of miles. 27,185 in 18 months. Warranty will be up soon (before I pay off) Wondering whether or not to dump it off. Again - I love this car -- it's a head turner, but when it spends more time at the dealer than in my hands??? Any advice?
  • wxjonwxjon Member Posts: 4
    I bought a 97 Sebring JX back in 98 as a program car. The car now has 95,xxx on it, and would I buy another? NO. Don't get me wrong this is a fun car to drive, and for anyone consider buying one, consider it. If you want a convertible for not a whole lot of money, this is a great car.

    Now that being said my days with Chrysler are probably coming to an end. This car has not been a nightmare just lots of little things.

    1) 4 sets of front brakes, front roters once.
    2) Fuel gage replaced (not cheap)
    3) Standing water in the back seat floor after the car was parked at the airport during a rain.
    4) Door switch replaced (you know the thing that turns off the dome lights) That was fun driving down the road with the map lights going off and on and the car dinging.
    5) Hydrolics went out top (that is really not cheap)
    6) Back window defroster disconnected itself (never been fixed by dealership)
    7) Hydrolics on trunk -dead
    8) Trunk release button -dead
    9) Black cover over transmission hole (broken twice once under warranty, second time was on my dime -was told it would be $250 -it stayed broken.
    10)Heat sometimes switches to just blower and then back to heat.
    11) Countless other things.

    Again nothing huge, the car still starts and it still gets me to work and home.

    Just thought I would add my 2 cents!

    Thanks

    JonT
  • bullit03bullit03 Member Posts: 5
    Now have 14,000 miles on 2002 LX. Car has settled down quite nicely. Still have crunch and grind when turning and do expect A/C groan to return in hot weather (when it comes). Biggest complaint so far is wiper blades, they don't last long. Dealer has replaced for me (3) times. A positive note, I live in Delaware, lived most of life in Pittsburgh PA, believe in snow tires for winter. Bought some 15" wheels and run of the mill real live snow tires for the car. In a recent 8" snowfall just get out of the way! This Sebring went everywhere, plowed roads or not! Great car in snow with right tires. Wouldn't even try with the 16" factory tires. Maybe I'll keep it after all.
  • runpantherrunpanther Member Posts: 44
    Yea, I get the "crunching" noise also. Especially on cold mornings and/or evenings after the car has sat a while. It seems too always happen during "right" turns.

    My dealer is also stumped. Please post should you find anything out (and vice versa). thx
  • tswartztswartz Member Posts: 1
    has anyone had this problem? The aluminum wheels on my 98 jxi have a clear plastic coating on them that has started to peel off. I'm the 2nd owner and Chrysler says they won't pay for refinishing. Seems like a clear defect to me.
  • jotekjotek Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2001 LX convertible w/15,000 mi. We have taken it to the dealer several times with minor complaints, however lately we've gone in with the same complaint. Tapping in the engine has gotten very loud. The first visit the dealer stated there was sludge in the engine and indicated that it was due to poor maintenance. We quickly informed them that simply was not the case. They changed the oil, even though we had just had it changed 2,000 miles prior to the visit. The second visit they "could not duplicate the concern" and suggested we use synthetic oil at the next oil change. The third visit, the tapping was so loud it was ridiculous, they changed the oil to synthetic oil. (even though they had recently changed it) It now is tapping as loudly as ever. This is a five star dealership and of course our frustration is mounting. We are thinking of taking the car to another dealer to see if we can get any results. These people appear to be deaf. We are very displeased with the performance of this vehicle. We have owned convertibles in the past and this has been the worst. (the original top frayed with worn areas,sagged a little, and had to be replaced in Oct. 2002, seems it was immproperly mounted) The replacement was done only after we insisted that something was wrong. Is anyone else experiencing a problem with very loud engine tapping?
  • leebealeebea Member Posts: 25
    Nope, my 2001 Limited has only about 4,000 miles and is still very quiet. From what I have seen at a couple of Sebring convertible message boards, your level of trouble is unusual. I have seen very few complaints with the 2001's.
    Definitely go to another dealer if there is one in your area and you're not getting satisfaction at yours. I've seen dealers that get hard-of-hearing if they think the noise might be of a serious nature. My father-in-law had that problem with a Mercury and even the Ford district rep "didn't hear the noise in the engine". All it took to clean their ears was a letter from the Mass. Attorney General's office. They found and fixed the problem.
    Good luck,
    Lee B.
  • kathyc4kathyc4 Member Posts: 1
    I am considering buying my first convertible, and I am very impressed with the Sebring so far but am nervous about the cloth top. What's the best way to care for this type of top? I live in an area where we get intense sun in the summer, and some snow in the winter. I park in a garage both at home and work, so that should help. Advice?

    Also, I'm looking at a 2002 LXi really loaded with only 30 miles (except for the 15 I put on it today!). The dealer has shown me an invoice of $27,507 but is giving me a $4,500 rebate so my final cost out the door (including tax and other charges) is $24,812. Is this a good price?
  • leebealeebea Member Posts: 25
    Kathy,
    I wouldn't be concerned with the cloth top if you keep it garaged at work and home. I keep my '01 Limited (Blue cloth top) garaged and it looks like new. Soap and water should keep it clean. I generally use clear water often. New England summers aren't too hot, but we get plenty of snow. I must confess that usually in bad weather I'm able to leave the convertible in the garage and use my T&C.
    I'm not much of an expert on price, but if my dealer came in with that deal, I'd take it.
    Good luck,
    Lee B.
  • bullit03bullit03 Member Posts: 5
    Beware the "Great" price with rebates etc. My 2002 LX Sedan stickered for $18,300. I bought for $15,636 before down payment. To trade in car now (1)year later (bought Jan 17th, 2002) can only get $9100 for it. Trade in is only 50% of sticker after (1) year. If you want a convertible, buy a certified used one from a dealer and take the best warranty they offer, total negative cash flow will be less than buying new. Rebates and incentives are killing resale values, the industry knows it!
  • lexingtonianlexingtonian Member Posts: 1
    ...from up North. I have a Sebring LXi 2001; only some 15000 miles in. Regular oil changes and more gas -- that's all I've been needing after bad radio was changed (warranty).

    I shipped my car to Scandinavia about a year ago and now live way up north. For weeks in a row we have -20F temperatures. No problems for Sebring. No rattles or anything. I could use heated front seats, though.
  • adp3adp3 Member Posts: 446
    well, it seems the Sebring has a disease in the right front area that no dealer can diagnose

    mine, a '99, also has this problem - ghas had it from the moment I drove it out of the showroom

    you can even feel the "pull" when you are coming down a hill, breaking at the stop sign, and preparing to make a right turn - the sound SUCKS

    a mechanic friend of mine came for a drive with me and heard it clear as day - but everyone at Chryusler service is deaf. Why do they hire deaf people? I know everyone deserves to work, but....

    otherwise, I've had 45,000 error/pain-free miles with it

    if they don't fix the problem (and cover it under warranty), then I'll be crossing the Pacifica off my list (along with the Town and Ciountry, PT Cruiser, and anything else with the Chrysler badge)

    after I send my complaint to the local DA, AG and every message board I can find
  • adp3adp3 Member Posts: 446
    Also, does anyone know how to get the TSBs free online?
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    You can get the TSBs for your vehicle throug Edmunds Maintenance Guide.

    Also, this discussion in Maintenance & Repair may be helpful. Long time member, 0patience, has the skinny on just about every TSB out there.

    Technical Service Bulletin
  • adp3adp3 Member Posts: 446
    Karen: Do you have any tips for other message boards that discuss problems? This noise while turning and breaking problem seems to be prevalent and I haven't heard that anyone has correctly diagnosed the problem.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    I'm not aware of any other discussions here in the Town Hall that pertains to Sebring problems.
  • cooldivacooldiva Member Posts: 2
    I have just purchased a new Sebring Coupe 2003. After reading all these negative messages I hope this redesigned and restyled coupe gives me no problems. Does anyone have anything positive to say about the Sebring Coupe 2003?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Did the info help at all?
    Hadn't heard if you received it or not.
  • jotekjotek Member Posts: 2
    Just an update to my post of Jan.22,03 concerning my 2001 Sebring Convertible. We purchased the car new on July 24,01. Since I last posted to this site, Jan 22, 03, I have taken my car to two more dealers.(The first dealer changed the oil twice.) The second dealer kept the car for ten days and never turned a wrench. Needless to say, I provided each dealer with all the documentation pertaining to service, oil changes etc.. The third dealer found thick sludge in the engine and called us to check it out. It was so thick it was ridiculous. We took pictures. (my car has had five oil changes within 15,000 miles) The thick sludge in this car looks like it should have been found in a car with at least 100,000 miles with never an oil change. My car is still at the third dealership. It has been there since Feb 25th. They are installing a new engine this week. When they finish with the engine they are going to investigate what sounds like a wheel bearing noise at the right front. At the same time, they will also check the leak in the new top. (the top was replaced by dealer number one at the end of 2002 due to visibly worn edges and the improper installation) If your car is making engine noise, I would suggest checking for sludge even though that seems terribly farfetched. Of course no one has a clue as to how the sludge got there..but it's there. (how about poor manufacturing and poor quality control)
  • olson70123olson70123 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Jxi 99 sebring convertible, the wheels are peeling and now so is the clear coating around the bumper on passenger side by fog light and also on the tip of the hood. I went to dealer and they said I have to write to corp headquarters to see if they will admit to a factory defect. Wondering if anyone else has tried this yet?
  • emserlemserl Member Posts: 1
    My 6 cyl Sebring has 35,000 miles. This problem was detected at approx. 28,000 miles. There is fuel leaking into the engine oil. The oil appears very dark and strongly smells of gasoline. It seems thin. I've been taking oil samples to an independent lab for analysis. They confer that there is gasoline in the oil and the percentage keeps increasing with the mileage on the car. I've been taking car to many different dealerships. All claim that oil is fine & say there is no way that this can possibly occur. I've shown the lab results and they say they aren't valid. I've called Chrysler Corporate asking for help. They too claim this can not happen. All Chrysler reps act like I am crazy and I dump fuel into my oil. Obviously, I am not anxious for the engine to blow up. If problem goes untreated, this will occur.

    Additionally, I constantly have coolant and brake fluid "disappearing" from the car. There are no obvious signs of leakage. The car's been to the dealers for these problems too. Radiator hoses have been replaced and 100's of dollars spent to no avail.

    I also have the problem listed with my aluminum wheels peeling. When I asked the dealer, they claimed it was due to a cleaning solution used. Since I purchased car with 12,000 miles on it, I don't know what previous owner might have used on it. I believe it is inferior workmanship.

    Chrysler acts like I am crazy & intentionally damaging my car. I am upset because I owe money on this car and cannot afford to have the engine blow up while I still pay on it. I've consulted with independent mechanics that say fuel leaking could be due to faulty injectors, seals, etc. However, I cannot afford to pay a huge repair bill, that should be Chrysler's responsibility. I will never own another Chrysler product again in my life. Chrsler has the worst customer service in the world. They deserve to go bankrupt! Previously, I owned a Nissan & Toyota. I received superior customer service from both companies and their representatives.

    jotek might have the same problem as mine. This could very well lead to the sludge in the engine.

    Can anyone help?
  • cmengcmeng Member Posts: 26
    I see that the 2004 models are now out for the Convertible. The rebates are only $1,000 less for the 2004.

    Are there any differences to be considered for 2004 models?

    Regards
    Charley
  • bbunchbbunch Member Posts: 7
    Does anybody know where i can get a "center cap" for a chrome wheel (for a 2001 Limited). I have found 1996-2000 on the web, but no 2001 or newer. I have found an entire wheel, but dont need that. Thanks, Bbunch
  • adp3adp3 Member Posts: 446
    0patience: I did get your message. The dealer found a leak in a transmission cooling line. Don't ask how much that cost to fix. After the fix, there was no more fluid on my garage floor, and the dragging noise did seem to get marginally better, but it's still there. I am pretty sure I can replicate the noise even without using the breaks on a turn, but I need to test that.

    Why is it that service techs at dealers can not hear anything? I am going to take it to another service shop that I trust.

    I can't thank you enough for taking the time to think about my problem.
  • adp3adp3 Member Posts: 446
    I seem to remember someone had posted pics of his/her Sebring convert. and they had bought an aftermarket wind screen - has anyone else done this? Does it work?
  • disney2413disney2413 Member Posts: 1
    The car wash lost my antennae. Can anyone tell me if I can order one without going to the dealer?
  • nolatabnolatab Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,
    Have had my Sterling Blue Limited with cream interior and navy top for 2 months now. What a beautiful car! However, I do have one nagging problem. There is a rattle in the driver's door. The dealer thinks it's the door striker and that there is insufficient clearance so that on bumps and rough roads, of which we have plenty in New Orleans, it rattles. After 4 attempts to fix, including adjusting the drivers door which was not hung properly, the rattle continues. It seems to me that the rattle is somewhere inside and perhaps associated with the window mechanism, as having the window up or down can change it. Dealer claims it's a defective design and is a "characteristic" of the car. Chrysler has not returned e-mails or calls to their customer service. I only have 535 miles on the car. anybody have any similar problems? How do you get a manufacturer's rep to look at it? Thanks for any help you can give.
    jg
  • purpleragtoppurpleragtop Member Posts: 1
    We purchased a loaded leftover '99 JXi In April, 2000, and have had very few problems with it. Our biggest problem is who gets to drive it, the wife or me. Living in New England with our winters, the cloth top is down every chance we get. Anything above 45 degrees is fair game to put it down. The top and heater have been trouble-free and at 59K miles, the top is in perfect shape (the car is garaged every night though). No complaints about rattles or squeaks either and no problems with the 4-wheel ABS disk brakes or suspension. I did decide to change brake pads at 50K miles, but the originals were still in great shape.

    Before we bought the car, I spoke with a Chrysler service advisor about potential Sebring rag top problems (we have an almost trouble-free '99 Concorde and I actually trusted his 5-star judgment). He indicated we could eventually expect a problem with the rear window defroster - it quit working two weeks ago.

    Other problems have been with the horns, transmission speed sensors, and a slight miss in the engine. The first year we had the horns replaced three times under warranty.

    We also had problems with transmission speed sensors that failed twice - that puts the car in the "limp" mode to get it to the repair shop. The first time under warranty and the second only $75.00 out-of-pocket. The transmission repair shop indicated these sensors were subject to fail in 1998 thru 2000 model year Sebrings (also the same year Concordes).

    We also developed a slight miss in the engine at idle with less than 10K miles. The dealer checked with Chrysler and discovered the Sebring Mitsubishi V6 was prone to fuel deposits on the cylinder heads. The dealer was able to remove the deposits chemically without removing the heads and we have been miss-free ever since. We were lucky - our 5-Star Chrysler dealer actually deserved the rating. Unfortunately, they dropped the Chrysler dealership for a Honda/Hundai lineup. Go figure....

    We just replaced the original Michlein tires - still plenty of tread, but New England pot holes bubbled sidewalls on two tires. Tire dealer was amazed we had 59K miles on the OEM speed-rated tires. I decided to replace all four tires since the OEM tires were discontinued and installed Goodyear Double Eagles, same speed rating. Definately a much better ride and better traction than the OEMs. If it hadn't been for the pot hole damage, I probably would have gotten another year on the original tires.

    Would we buy another Sebring? You bet, but the '04 PT Cruiser rag top might change our minds? After all, we're almost 60 years old and still look good, especially in a Chrysler convertible!
  • snsnsnsn Member Posts: 56
    Nolatab,

    Did you get your door rattle problem resolved? We just bought a 2003 LXI convertible and my husband noticed the same problem today. We've only had the car for a little over a week. We have to take the car back for a tire exchange next week and will be bringing this to the dealer's attention.
  • barryriderbarryrider Member Posts: 3
    I recently purchased a 1996 Sebring Conv. I noticed that it seemed to be racking up the miles too quickly. I noted the distance to my place of employment as 37 miles. In two different vehicles the distance is only 23 miles, a variance of about 38%. I stopped at a Chrysler dealer, they said there was some sort of computer adjustment that could be made based on the wheel size 14, 15 or 16 inch. But, if my speedometer was accurate they said they don't have a clue what the problem would be. I followed behind someone, we communicated on the cell phone, and my speedometer matches his, so I think the speedometer is correct. Any suggestions regarding a fix will be appreciated.
  • treeman8treeman8 Member Posts: 13
    Hi Richard,

    I sympathise with your leak problem. We pursued arbitration TWICE on my daughter's leaking Neon (wanted to give Chrysler a chance). When the Chrylsler rep told us he didn't consider a leaking trunk a serious problem, I decided to get tough (the trunk was not useable). Be persistant and DO NOT listen to the arbitrators - they have nothing to loose turning you down. They will find ANYTHING to say you goofed on the arbitration rules.

    We went to an excellent lemon law lawyer (my last alternative, I hate lawyers). E mail NoLemons.com, I can't remember her name right now (Lieblang?), but she works near Ann Arbor, Michigan(down the road from where your Siebring was built). She helped develop the Lemon Law in MI and she is feared by the big three (my opinion). She will evaluate your case for free, I believe (put some time into organizing your records and your case). If she believes she can help, she charges a very modest fee to pursue it (under $200, I believe). She seems to be honest about not pursuing cases she has little chance of winning. We got all of our money back on the Neon (plus some) and it was hassle free. This woman/organization is awesome. Chrysler was no match for her.

    Regarding your bad Chrysler experience, I am on my second Chrysler mini van and they have been the best vehicles I have ever owned. My other daughter is fighting Pontiac for the very common Grand Am head gasket problem (everyone gets it). I know people who own nearly every brand that have had nightmare new car problems - even Honda's. It happens to all brands, and all arbitrators are ruthless regardless of brand. Just my two cents. It's often just what luck you have regarding which car you get off the line.
This discussion has been closed.