Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2013 and Earlier - Hyundai Sonata Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • I'm getting a quote of 20,625 in DFW area which only includes 500 finance rebate. This is before TTL for a SE Auto with MSRP of 23855. I might pull the trigger tomorrow.
  • js06gvjs06gv Frisco, TXPosts: 436
    Just worked a deal for my mom at Allen Samuels outside of Fort Worth. Same dealer where I got my Santa Fe back in 2007. MSRP 29,150. Paid 24,397 after 1,500 in rebates (loyalty, military, and finance) and 3,253 discount. No nav. Ruby red with tan interior. Beautiful car.

    2016 Kia Optima SX, 2015 Ford Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150 King Ranch, 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6, 2001 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic

  • bluepbluep Posts: 29
  • Walked into dealership and walked out with a brand new 2012 Sonata Ltd with a OTD price of $27,718 (including all accessories). It also include free oil changes and maintenance for 3 years. I certainly overpaid, especially the Administration Fee ($695), which is what I get for my lack of due-diligence. In any case, I have a new car - I'm happy.
  • can you tell me which dealership quoted you 20,625 for 2012 Sonata SE. I live in the DFW area and looking to buy an SE model.
  • alookmanalookman Posts: 141
    I was quoted 22,400 for 2012 Sonata SE by Huffines of Mckinney by Tony. Same car last years 2011 model was 21k.

    Switched and purchased 2012 Altima which is a good competent car and far less road noise and more reliable than Sonata based on Consumer Reports current updated reliability report. With rebates and discounts you can get fully loaded Altima leather 2.5SL for about 22-23k.
  • go tell it on the nissan board. if we want a nissan we will go there but this is a sonata hyundai board.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,174
    The first part of his post talks about what cost he could've bought a Sonata for and he posted that. Just because he bought a Altima doesn't negate the first paragraph from his post. He has every right to post in this forum...get over it!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    It seems that now Hyundai has established the 2011 models and the sales have soared, they are now starting to introduce "price creep"..too bad, as now the Sonata and Elantra have some serious competition with other fuel efficient brands (and more to come).

    I think everyone should shop around and work the brands against the competition as Hyundai set the bar higher in their one model jump than many years of incremental changes. The other car builders are now catching up to the new reality that brand loyalty won't keep people blindly buying the same old cars with de contented items and so called little "evolutionary changes"
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,174
    The old days of buying the same car again and again are over...brand loyalty is starting to become a thing of the past. I went from Toyota to Nissan to Honda and if I had to buy a car today, I'd either go to Hyundai or Buick, as in Verano. Got new plugs and a air filter for the Mazda3 since we're over the 100k mrk and talked with the wife. Told her she needs to go soon and do her test drives and definitely plugged the Verano. Considering that she wants a car that can get out of it's own way, the 2.4 in the Verano looks like it hits all the wants she has. Showed a pic of the Lacrosse and Regal and she liked the styling. The new Mazda3 has the same body style as hers, which she noticed, and she wants something different I'm finding out.

    Agree that Hyundai has really raised the bar and they can sell autos without thousands in rebates by making good looking reliable cars. This is making the other guys take notice that their new products will have to be class leading from here on out. Look at Honda, they didn't go far enough with the new Civic and they know they have to fix it...and fast. Same problem they had with the last generation Accord. People really hated the 2005 model so much that they had to make a real change for the 2006 & 2007 models. What should have been just a mild refresh of the front and rear facia was much more than that, they actually looked like different cars. People expect more now and won't settle for blah styling and de-contented interiors. Hopefully Nissan and Toyota are listening very carefully here...their new compacts could be a real game changer!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • The Truecar quote I asked for was for the White one, which was $200 extra and already $1,500 below invoice, but I ended up getting the silver and the salesperson knocked off $200 from the Truecar price. I switched to silver after test-driving, but the dealer did not have it on their lot. In the end, he was able to swap with another dealer (they paid for transportation) and still honored the Truecar price, along with some added options that were not on the Quote, so i saved even more money. I'm glad I purchased the Silver and am loving my new car!
  • andrewnandrewn Posts: 7
    edited December 2011
    I think I got a great deal after research from this board, Edmunds true pricing,, and comments from other dealers in town. I bought this last night, 12/30/2012.

    2012 Sonata 2.0T Turbo - Harbor Gray
    Floor Mats
    Bumper Guard
    Trunk Mat
    Net for trunk

    Selling price: $25700
    Trade-in: $4891.08 - (There is no way my trade was worth anything more than $1000 (and they knew it) but they gave me almost 5k)
    Drive away tag $35.00
    Doc Fee 156.08
    OTD (out the door) = $21,000

    With the true value of my trade in I basically could have bought this car for $22,000 OTD without a trade-in.

    I did not get any rebates from Hyundai. They had the $500 cash back for financing which they said would bring me OTD to $20,500 but I had a much better bank rate than the 60 mo. 3.9% they offered. I also didn't qualify for any loyalty or military incentives.

    My trade was a 2001 high mileage piece of junk which had body damage front to back, had electrical problems causing the rear door locks and windows not to work, the heat didn't work, the oil leaked, I could go on and on. The KBB trade-in Fair condition price was about $1,500 but I don't even think it could even classify as fair and I was offered $1000 from several dealerships.

    I shopped a lot of dealers in town and had them competing against each other but eventually went with a dealer 2 hours from my house because he was no hassle and beat the 6 other dealers in my town by more than a $1,000 OTD.

    My friend has a 2011 Sonata Limited Turbo and he referred me to a dealer in town who said they would beat anyone. After much negotiation they were only able to get to $22,300 OTD. I have a voicemail of the salesmen telling me that if the offer I had from the dealership 2 hours away was real then it was an incredible deal and that I should hurry and go get it. It's kind of funny because the message is a couple minutes of him telling me what an incredible offer I'm getting at the competing dealership.

    After having SEVERAL dealerships tell me they COULD NOT match the deal I feel great with what I got.
  • Hi andrewn,

    I think you got a great deal. I have 2 questions for you:
    1. Did you opt to get the Navigation and Sunroof in your OTD 21k? If not, how much extra would that have been, any info?
    2. The second quote that you got through your friend's referred dealer, was that for the same 2012 Sonata 2.0T Turbo or the Limited?

    I am interested in a limited with navigation and sunroof, and have been hunting for a good deal for almost a year now. I currently drive a 2005 Elantra.
  • 1. I did not opt for navigation and sunroof as that would all have been more. I don't know how much more exactly because I didn't investigate it.
    2. The dealer my friend referred me to was offering the exact same car. The great thing about buying new is that I could contact each dealer and tell them I wanted a new 2012 2.0T in Gray. Buying new made it so that when I contacted different dealers and got quotes I could see who had the best deal. When I was looking at used they all had different miles and features so it was hard to compare.

    The limited is awesome but I wasn't shopping that so I don't know too much about it. I would tell you though that unless you drive slow you should go with a Limited with turbo. It is SOOO much faster and fun to drive the turbo engine.

    Edmonds should tell you what the invoice price is for your car. In my case the sticker in window says 25,700, and Edmonds and true car information puts the invoice somewhere close to 24,500. True car estimated the dealer cost to be $23,582. The price was $23,921 for my area and the Edmons TMV price was $24,417. I believe I beat those "Good" prices by at least $2,000 in my deal and I was at least $2000 under invoice and possibly more.

    My recommendation would be to make sure you use the Edmonds features and to understand what the invoice price is for what you want, what other people are paying, and then push to have them beat it by $3000 which I knew I wasn't actually going to get. I think my final deal put me about $2,000 under invoice. The number I was telling all the dealerships was going to require them to make a deal with me that was well under invoice. What seemed to work best was to tell them upfront that based on my research I expected a Generous offer on my trade(more than KBB) and a sales price Under invoice. In my case it wasn't too hard to get under invoice offers but only by a few hundred under at most dealers except the one that REALLY wanted my business. Get your offers and then work the dealers against each other. Also, giving them reasons why I wasn't available to come in person worked well too because I was able to quickly go back and forth with dealers over the phone and email. It is a lot less pressure on you that way and a lot less time and effort as well.

    Good Luck .. If you live in the Missouri / Illinois area I know what dealership you should contact. I live in a major city but made a 4 hour drive for the right deal.
  • jmhjpjmhjp Posts: 10
    I really need you help guys to find out that I got a good deal yesterday leasing this vehicle.

    $3000 cash down with ($1000 in rebates -Loyalty and dealer coupon) $4000 Total

    Gross Capitalized cost $25148
    Capitalized cost reduction $2619
    Adjusted capitalized cost $23123.65
    Residual value $15999.10
    rent charge$1999.66
    total of base monthly payments $9124.20
    lease payments 36
    12.000 miles

    I added the basic care that it will take care of scratches , tires and other things for $860

    Total monthly payments $270 (taxes included)

    Is this a good deal? I don't know what to think..its my first lease and I was so tired yesterday and I really need a car. I need to go to the dealer to get the carpets and set up the bluelink but I'm waiting for a lease savy to help me out if this is something good of a deal.
    Thank you guys....
  • Hi guys n gals...just wanted to get eveyones opinion. I just bought the 2012 sonata limited in shimmering white fully loaded, navi, panoramic roof, mud guards, mats, nets, paint protection, leather protection and pretty much the whole shebang for $29000 including TTL. This included the $500 off for financing. I live in the LA area so tax is quite high. 8.75% to be exact. I dont feel like i got a super great deal but i dont feel its a bad one either so just wanted to get everyones opinion. Either way i love this car. Appreciate any feedbacks. Thanks.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,906
    Is there some way you can get out of this lease if you find out it was not a good deal, in the opinion of others?

    If not... don't worry about it. It's done. Enjoy your new car.

    But on your next car... try not to negotiate the deal when you are tired and in desperate need of a car.
  • jmhjpjmhjp Posts: 10
    edited January 2012
    They are giving me 3 days or 300 miles ..I can get out of this deal YES...that's the reason I'm trying to ask you giuys what do..

    What's wrong with my lease deal? I never did a lease thats the reason I don't know what to do . I spent 6 hours at the dealership on new years eve.....It was a very long day.

    What do you guys thing I should do?? Don't put money down??

    I'm going to the dealer today so please someone help me out.What should I do to get a better deal?
  • jmhjpjmhjp Posts: 10
    My credit is 693, maybe this is the problem with me not getting the best deal out there.

    Let me know guys what do you think....the clock is ticking.....thank you .
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,906
    I don't like to put money down on a lease. The only reason I've leased cars (and I am leasing one now, FWIW) is because I have been able to get a very low payment with nothing or almost nothing out of pocket. And at the time I leased, that's exactly what I was looking for. So financially, it was a good deal compared to buying.

    The only time I ever put significant money down on a lease was in 1997 when I leased a Sentra. The terms were $99 a month, but about $2800 up front, for 39 months. I figured my costs per month, including the up front payment, and figured it was far and away the best deal I could get at that time. In fact, I had salespeople from competing dealerships e.g. Honda tell me, "If you can lease for that price, I'd go for it."

    My current lease is for a 2010 Sentra 2.0 S that I got for $179/month for 39 months, with only the first payment up front. So dealer paid all other taxes and fees--or they were included in the payment. They even tossed in a free Garmin nav system and a portable DVD player. Again, it was the best deal on a comparable car I could find at that time, and was almost nothing out of pocket.

    So the question you need to ask yourself is, what is your total outlay per month, including up-front money? And is that a good deal compared to buying, or leasing from another dealer or leasing another car (if you are even considering another car)? Also you need to ask yourself how sure you are that you'll want to keep the Sonata for the entire lease term. If not, it will be very expensive for you to get rid of it, due to the up-front money you paid, which you will likely never get back if you have to sub-lease the car.

    Also, how much negotiating did you do with this dealer, and with other Hyundai dealers? If you didn't negotiate much if at all, you likely didn't get the best deal possible. And at this time of year, you should be able to get a very good deal.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 298
    backy: Good point on leasing being a good deal when no money upfront or VERY low lease payment with money upfront. Current lease deals advertise low payment but fineprint the $3000 down that works out to $80 per month or more to result in that low payment. Another trick is the ole lease acquisition fee that adds big bucks to the cost of the car ($500 or more at times). Another important point is that after 36 months of lease payments you do not own the car. A good low rate car loan ( 3-3.5% for 72 months) may result in you owing approx. 50% of the original loan amount for $30-$50 per month more in payments and you still own the car (or at least half of it). There is no one answer for all - low lease payments for 36 months and you start over with anew car and lease or pay more per month and you own half the car with 36 more payments to pay it off and you have a 6 year old car. Lease deals have current lease rates of 0 to 3% so there are some great deals if that suits your overall plan. Enjoy the new car!
  • kcmoverkcmover Posts: 32
    Trying to decide between the two vehicles. I would be buying the loaded Sonata Limited, Leather Seats, Navigatioin loaded vs a Toyota Camry. Price point the Sonata is about 2,000 less in price but am a getting an equel value today and when I sell the car inaobut 24 to 36 months.

  • Any feedback at all people? Especially the ppl living in the LA area who bought something similar or got a quote for the same vehicle?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,906
    1) Which car do you like driving the most? Which car meets your needs better, e.g. passenger room, trunk space, features?

    2) Given you plan to keep the car only 2-3 years, your best bet might be a lease. Have you looked at leases on these two cars?
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 298
    We faced the same question. Sonata (GLS with PEP) vs. Camry (SE model).
    Camry seemed dated and boxy vs. new Sonata with one year old styling. Also the price points were about the $2000 diff. you referenced. Same I- 4 with 6 speed and equipment so choice was warranty coverage price and overall apppearance. Resale on Sonata is very close to Toyota in addition to the Hyundai Assurance plan that guarantees value up to 48 months if car is trade in at Hyundai. We chose Sonata but each to his own. good luck.
  • benanddebibenanddebi Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    Andrew, we currently have a 2011 and thinking about trading for a 2012. What dealer do you recommend. We live in Missouri the St. Louis area.
  • jshaikjshaik Posts: 2
    I got my Sonata turbo limited with Navigation on 12/30/11

    -500 (Hyundai finance rebate)
    6% MI tax
    190 doc. fee
    47 title transfer

    29111 OTD
  • Bought my 2011 SE in June 11 for $21,000. ($24k MSRP) Just traded it towards a 2012 Limited.
    2012 Limited MSRP $27,255, bought for $24,444. Traded my 2011 (11,800 miles) for $18,800. That is some good resale value. Almost 90%.
    Loved the Sonata, but I already damaged two wheels. Had to get them repaired or replaced, chose to repair for $125 each time.
    SE was a little rough riding but I loved the look of the 18" wheels. But living in Northeast, I was probably going to spending a lot of time and money repairing the wheels.
    So here I am in the Limited. (No navigation)
    So far, so good.
  • Was your SE a 2.0T(turbo) and did you get the turbo on your limited?
  • No Turbo on either SE or Limited. I beleive Turbo comes with the 18" alloys, which I am avoiding like the plague after damaging two.
Sign In or Register to comment.