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2013 and Earlier - Hyundai Sonata Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • steven39steven39 Posts: 636
    what was the msrp of this car...your price is way,way,below the other poster mentioned,where there any rebates involved here to get to that price???
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    Just an FYI. Anyone can get those rebates. I am not a veteran nor a former Hyundai owner but I was able to get all the so-called rebates, over $2000.

    I was very clear that I was not a veteran or a loyalty customer but that I wanted to pay approx. $2400 under invoice.
    Two dealers agreed to my offer. Of course, three others didn't.
  • 999eezz999eezz Posts: 4
    edited November 2012
    I have no idea what type of rebates I have gotten. I follow Brian's and Steve's calculation to figure out my offer price. Initially, I asked for $20400 OTD for a basic model without package. The dealer agreed to that price. However, I went to the wrong dealer, that dealer doesn't have the color I want but they offerred me $20000 OTD to take another color. The 2nd color choice they have has the package built in. So I added $600. I guess we don't have to know of what current incentives or rebates, they always have something going on. Just follow Brian's calculation. You will never go wrong. Remember to purchase your car at the end of the month. Call all dealerships to tell them you offer price. It is so much easier than negotiating back and forth. Good luck.

    Thanks Steve and Brian for your advices.

    I was offerred $1295 for 10 yrs/?? miles, $0 deductible hyundai Platinum extended warranty (administer by Fidelity), should I buy it? Finance manager said I can purchase it within a week. The reason why I am considering is too many electronic components that can fail easily, like bluetooth, computer parts...etc. Please advice
  • Just looked it up, the msrp was $22595.
  • I was curious to see if you bought your 2013 SE, I am starting to look for a new car and am trying to get some figures to take into the dealership. Thanks.
  • Hey guys,

    Been following the posts in here for the past month or so gearing up towards getting my new car. It's been so helpful and I'm starting to feel quite confident (although never as confident as until after you've successfully done something) about going through this process. I live in NY and we were hit hard with this storm as most who aren't from the Northeast probably know about. In any case, I thought I had the perfect situation with respect to going in on Oct 31 since Monday and Tuesday everything was shut down. I was expecting to be in tip top shape for prime negotiation, but was still unable to get there then :( I know the end of the month is always best, but I'm hoping that with this crisis that's been going on there haven't been many sales and they'll be willing to do a good deal, as I don't really have much of a choice now with my current lease set to go back on the 10th.

    In any event, I've been going back and forth on what to do for this next one, but from your knowledge and experience, would this negotiation work just the same with respect to the sales price of the car within a lease deal?
  • kibbler1138kibbler1138 Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    I live in Maryland and bought my '13 Sonata Limited w/ Premium package in "Shimmering White" (+$200!) on the 31st. I thought I had done well until I read this forum. I've been having buyer's remorse since the drive home. I like the car a lot, but I wanted so badly to get a good deal and now I'm totally distraught over the price I paid.

    All the dealerships in my area (Frederick and Washington counties) were either closed, had phone lines down, or were just otherwise not making a lot of sales on Monday and Tuesday during the brunt of Sandy. I figured I had picked a really sweet time to go for the purchase. I worked two local dealers on the phone (one about 50 miles from where I work) and they wound up coming to equilibrium. I picked the further dealership which I actually preferred because I had been in a year ago and they treated me much better than when I went for a test drive at the closer dealer.

    After the deal was done, I immediately realized I paid too much: My "OTD" price was 27,050... but that included $200 doc fees (d'oh!), and -$1500 in rebates. The sales guy kept going on about how he had never seen a sonata discounted that deeply (yada yada yada). I had been using truecar and various sources to try to find a good price, but I missed out on finding actual buyer stories.

    Oh... and that wasn't my OTD price. I said no to the extended warranty and service plans three times... but not a fourth. Tacked on an additional $1900 in the end. I knew it was dumb as the words came out of my mouth, but... what can I say. I'm a sucker. For the past two days, I've been calling Fidelity Warranty (owns the Hyundai extended service/warranty plans) to try to cancel. They don't have record of the contract yet (they do say it takes 2 business days to get into the system). If I can successfully cancel the contract (good luck to me), I'll at least feel a little better about the price I paid.


    Point being, I don't think Sandy gave anyone an advantage at the dealer that wouldn't already have an advantage due to their strong negotiation skills.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,813

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,813
    edited November 2012
    LEASING, when you lease a car same rule applies. Always try to Negotiate your lowest price for the car 1st. Find out before you lease the residual, and money factor for that model car. This is the formula they use for the monthly payment. Go to Edmunds leasing forum ask the Car Man for residual , and money factor on your lease period. Make sure you tell him 12k or 15k per year and the make and model.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • I am getting quotes around $18400 in the Charlotte NC area. This is not otd. I've found a dealer in Roanoke VA offering 15997 if you are recent college grad and military or 16,887 without. Both those figures do not include freight which is 825. Must be a Virginia thing. It seems realistic to get these cars sub 18,000 without the preferred package that has the rims and such. Do heated cloth seats really matter?
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    I found that its best to not even ask for a quote from a dealer. That's the first mistake many people make.

    You put yourself in the drivers seat by giving the dealer your price based on the options and packages you want.

    For example, you see a car in stock with a specific total MSRP. Make an offer based on research and knowledge of invoice price and incentives.

    You can get all incentives regardless of being a recent grad, veteran, etc.

    Good luck
  • Wow, those are some low prices in that area. I live up in NY and am not getting as great of pricing. Is there a way to work with those dealers without having to drive there?? haha

    Hey Steve, I've seen you mention before about being able to get the incentives even when you don't qualify. How do you manage this, just tell them you want all incentives and if they ask for proof you just tell them you don't have it but you want them anyway? I wish I had you on my side going in there, I picture the salesman shaking in their seats when they try to pull their games and you slam it right back in their face haha. Thanks for all your posts.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    The key is for you (as a buyer) to know the incentives. In the case of the Sonata it's about $1500 total. You don't want to discuss incentives per se.

    Just make them an offer for the car you see/want.

    You should also know the invoice price and hold back.

    As soon as you mention how you arrived at your offer, you are doomed !!

    I say to the sales rep, this is what I want to pay for this car. Immediately they bring in the sales manager or general manager, which is good for you.

    The manager can always give you a lower price than the sales rep alone.

    Good luck.
  • Ok, think I'm getting the technique better. When the manager comes out, will they ask how you got to the price? Do you just stick to the story, "this is what I want to pay for it" or how do you suggest to respond to such questions?
  • steven39steven39 Posts: 636
    just a quick comment about the incentives.iv'e purchased 2 cars in the last 5 years where the military rebate was was about 500 dollars each time.i was never in the military but i told them i was and they gave me the rebate and didn't ask to see any documents about me being in the military...
  • Since this is a prices paid forum, I'm wondering if anyone has gotten a new base Sonata under 18k? That is the best I've done over the phone but I plan to go for the gold in person. Even at that, I am over 5,000 off sticker. The incentives are tricky because there are so many and some are wrapped up in financing.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    If you are in the process of car shopping, using online forums and tools and plan to visit a dealer soon, a reporter would like to hear from you. Please email by Tuesday, November 13, 2012 and provide a few lines about your experience so far.
  • bgravbgrav Posts: 1
    Hey guys - I used this forum to great effect when I bought my 2007 Sonata Limited - Sandy just dropped a tree on it. ( loved that car) I live in the Danbury, CT area - last time I found my best price in Northern New Jersey - I'm willing to drive a bit to get the best deal. What I need now is to know if anyone in my area has an OTD price for a 2013 Limited Sonata with the Premium Package. I saw someone paid $27,100 OTD, but not near me. I just need a bottom line to stand by - the rest of the dealership BS I can navigate.
    Need to move quickly -
    Thanks - great to see consumers helping each other out. This stuff works -
    ps. Last dealership I visited mentioned that they were offering a $750 incentive for anyone whose car was damaged by the Hurricane. Just fyi.
  • ekg2ekg2 Posts: 6
    I don't know about the $27,100 OTD. The lowest price I've seen anyone get on this site is $25,000 before taxes, license and any fees. I paid $25,395 + $2756 which includes taxes, license and $80 doc fee. The MSRP was about $29,900 and I paid $28,151 OTD. I would suggest calling dealerships and telling them exactly what you want and that you want to pay $25,000 before taxes, etc. That's what I did and found 1 dealer out of 5 who would do it.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    edited November 2012
    First of all, it is so easy to get good prices on a Sonata. There is so much margin in this particular model.

    Rule #1: Never ask for a quote from the sales rep.
    Rule #2: Do your homework. Determine the invoice price for the vehicle in question. Look here on Edmunds to get that. Based on the model's total MSRP, calculate 3% of that number. Subtract that from the invoice price. Then subtract an additional $1500 minimum. Use that number to make your offer.
    Rule #3: Tell sales rep, that its all business. You will buy the car today of you meet "My price". If not, you will call elsewhere.
    Rule #4: Do the negotiation on the phone. Tell them that you will come in to make the purchase if they agree to your price on the phone.
    Rule #5: Pay no Documentation fees. If they insist on the Doc fee, then you insist that they reduce the previously agreed upon price accordingly.
    Rule #6: Do not, and I repeat, do not, believe anything the sales rep says about anything.
    Rule #7: Do not tell the sales rep how you arrived at your offer.
    Rule #8: You have much more leverage negotiating during the last week of the month.
    Rule #9: If you end up only negotiating with a sales rep and not the sales manager, you certainly paid too much. The best deals require that the sales rep gets his/her manager involved in the process. You need to see the sales rep squirm. I am very serious.

    I was able to get a 2013 Sonata Limited (with Premium, etc.) with an MSRP or around $30,000, for $25,000 exactly with no Doc fees. The only added cost was state tax and license fees. I called 6 dealers. Two met my exact price. The others said they could not, but counter offered about $300-$500 more. The key is to drive the conversation and control things.

    Good luck.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    edited November 2012
    Check with Towne Hyundai in Dennville, NJ. They're 100 miles from my home in you're a few more miles.

    Their internet pricing is great. Just watch the date of your vehicle registration if you buy from them, as they contract this out and the contractors have been slow.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,491
    I can tell you that my EX base sticker was $24,265. I negotiated $20,500 plus $1500 for GAP, 100k extented warr (bumper to bumber to 100k...instead of 60k), and Lojak. Total including financing and taxes (called total of payments on your contract) was $24,500. $24,500 is the absolute total. I put nothing down. Instead, I paid my insurance for a year.

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,491
    I can tell you that my EX base sticker was $24,265. I negotiated $20,500 plus $1500 for GAP, 100k extented warr (bumper to bumber to 100k...instead of 60k), and Lojak. Total including financing and taxes (called total of payments on your contract) was $24,500. $24,500 is the absolute total. I put nothing down. Instead, I paid my insurance for a year. I need to disclose that I have tye Optima. The Sonata equivalent is the SE. The dealer threw in an extra set of thick rubber all weather mats, a tough PVC trunk liner, and an Optima sticker on the bumper that no one can see. The mats and liner are fantastic for winter amd spring weather. I use the carpeted mats in the Summer. I have had my (2012) car for a year now and have had zero problems.

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    Just so you know, you actually paid for those mats several times over. Everyone says, on this forum, that you don't want to buy an extended warranty from the dealer who sold you the car. You can get the exact same extended Hyundai warranty from dealers online for half the price.

    I bet you can also get Lojak elsewhere for cheaper. Its usually a mistake to buy anything from the dealer other than the car.

    Anyway, we hope you enjoy the ride.
  • koctailzkoctailz Posts: 87
    edited November 2012
    add that GAP coverage on your auto insurance policy, its a fraction of that $1500. You should be able to cancel the GAP coverage since you just purchased but the dealer might fight you on this one. Also lojack is a waste of money imo for a sonata. actually lojack imo is a total waste period. most police dept due to budget cuts dont even have the system in their patrol cars and large departments that do have higher priority crime than stolen vehicles. add to that all new cars have engine immobilizer anti theft systems built in and new cars are very difficult to steal.
  • Hello
    I am looking to purchase a Hyundai Sonata Limited MSRP 31,600. I offered a dealer 28k all inckusive, they are telling me 29 is the best they can do even with all the incentives...

    Should I stand my ground???
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    You should have offered less; something around $26500.
    Call other dealers on the phone .
    Don't go to the dealer till you negotiate on the phone.

    Also end of month gives you more advantage.
    Say no to doc fees too.

    You can do it.
  • Hi Tarabella99,

    PLEASE do not pay that much. I posted a couple of pages back for my 13 sonata limited with tech package OTD 25,700 with recent grad and Hyundai Motor financing rebate so 27,100 if you dont qualify for anything. The invoice is 28,100 so if you pay the price they are quoting you, they are making a TON of money off you. Do not pay anything above the low 27k if you do not qualify for anything.

    Call every single dealer 100 miles from you should be like 6 or 7 depending on where you live. Go to about 2 or 3 the ones you like and are in the business to make a deal sooner rather than later.

    Good Luck - I love the car and is beautiful inside and out -

    BUT the gas mileage im average 23 to 28 city and highway mixed so be prepared for this. Its a huge car and 18.5 gallon tank so its heavy. Overall, great purchase!!!
  • Hey Steve (and any others with experience in the matter), have you ever negotiated with a trade-in? If so, what do you think is the best strategy? I've heard it said negotiate your best price then add the trade-in into the mix after that has been agreed. I have a lease that is going back and was thinking if it had any trade in value, that'd sure be great, but even if they just took it off my hands, that would be like a trade in of the cost of the disposition fee and any potential damage charges the dealership would try to tack on.

    Also, the car is due back before the end of the month, but I was considering extending the lease in order to be able to make a deal on the last day of the month as it appears that's your best opportunity for getting a good deal. What are your thoughts on this?

    Any direction or help is much appreciated.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    I usually sell my cars myself instead of trading it in. Having said that, a couple of times I have traded it in to the dealer. But only after negotiating the new car price first. When I start to negotiate the new car price, when they ask if there is a trade in, I say No.

    After we come to an agreement on the new car price, I then say, "How about give me a price on the trade in". I do my research first to determine what is a fair price.

    Then you can weigh the pros and cons of their price compared to the true price you think you can get privately. When I did actually trade in the car, the price we agreed on was close enough to what it should be, so I did it. Most times, they low ball you, so I just say No to the trade and just buy the new car. I've sold many cars over the years on craigslist.

    I've never leased a car, so I really can't suggest how to handle that.

    Hope this helps.
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