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2013 and Earlier - Hyundai Sonata Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • How much do you think I overpaid?
    What would you say good price was for the car I bought with the accessories?
    Another buyer in the thread posted that he paid 18548 but not with all the accessories I purchased (tint, etc).

    This is my first new car purchase and I thought I did everything right.
    When they let me walk out of the door I thought I was close to a good deal.
    Looks like they were bluffing knowing that I would not go to too many stores.

    Oh well, at least I got what I can afford (instead of what I want).
  • aajuaaju Posts: 1
    Please let me know if you were able to get a good deal. It would be really helpful if you could update us what happened with your deal.

    This forum is really great and thanks for all the guys posting their experience. Hope I could also get a great deal soon. I will also post my experience soon.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    As many of you know I bought a new Sonata for my Dad. He lives in Florida and I live in NH. I haven't seen the car since he got it a few months ago. He's at about 3000 miles.

    Isn't the first scheduled maint. Supposed to be at 7500 miles?
    Does Hyundai cover any of the cost for these? The reason I ask is that I have a couple of Toyotas and they pay in full for scheduled maint. for the first 2 years. Does Hyundai do this? I couldn't find this info on the web site and I want to make sure he's not taken advantage of by the dealer.

    Thx in advance.
  • unlv_rebelsunlv_rebels Posts: 32
    edited December 2012
    I am looking for a 2013 Sonata GLS with PEP. I haven't closed the deal yet.

    I found out the following info:
    - It appears that this car can be obtained for $18,200 - $18,700 after $2400/$2500 rebates ($1500 HMF, $500 owner/comp rebate and $400 student/$500 veteran rebate) before tax.
    - Some members in this forum say that you can try to get an incentive of about $2000, whether, you qualify for these rebates or not.
    - In some states, price before tax could be cheaper but the tax rate would be higher and in some cases, tax is charged prior to the rebates. Hence, it could possibly nullify the difference in cost. Hence, look out for the OTD price.
    - In general, higher the number of dealers in a state (including nearby states), better the chances of getting an aggressive price.
    - Try to find out the fleet agent in a particular state. The chances of getting an aggressive price is much higher over there.
    - Better to complete the purchase towards the end of the month.
    - A dealer could be really looking to sell one additional car in a particular month end to increase his sales figure (for example 49 Sonatas to 50 per month) to get higher incentive from Hyundai. The dealer could be offering very aggressive price to attain his goal.
    - According to my research, the OTD price of a GLS with PEP with standard accessories, like cargo net, cargo mat, etc., (these are random ones chosen by Hyundai for each car) seems to be about $19,500 - $20,000 ($500 difference could be due to number of dealers present in a state (or nearby states), population, tax rate, rebates one qualifies for, etc.,).
    - You may be getting an OTD price of $20,000 in your state and $19600 in a neighboring state. But, if you consider your travel expenses, it may be almost same or the difference could be very minimum (about $100-$200).
    - There may be few cases, where people would have got additional free stuff like few hundred dollars worth of car wash/service, besides getting an OTD price of about $$19700 - $20,000. It may not be possible for all to get such offers. It is YMMV (your mileage may vary).

    I will be happy, if I can get a GLS with PEP and standard accessories for about $20,000 OTD. Many have obtained such a price, according to the postings here.

    However, I found few extra-ordinary deals mentioned here. It could be due to the factors mentioned above or due to some other factor that I missed.

    Post # 8624
    I just completed a gls purchase for 17,200 plus ttt. It includes premium package plus spoiler, mats guards, cargo mat, etc. There was auto show cash of $500 included in deal.
    NOTE: I don't know what is the OTD price. It is still an amazing deal.

    Post # 8630
    Sonata gls, pref package,mats,spoiler and home link
    $18545 plus ttl
    Plus, at no cost $300 free oil change and car washes and $455 pin striping and door guards
    NOTE: I don't know what is the OTD price. This is still an amazing deal.

    Post # 8651
    2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS
    Net Cost: $17,505
    Cost with Tax and Registration: $19,005 (CA tax of about 8.75%)
    NOTE: I don't know, whether it is with PEP or not.
  • unlv_rebelsunlv_rebels Posts: 32
    edited December 2012
    Hi michellej87,

    Enjoy your new car. Some cars come with 6 standard accessories. You got seven. Hence, it could be about $50-$100. In addition, you also got FREE tint and pin stripping and the OTD price is $20,400 ($19,000 before 6% tax).

    I have no idea about the cost of tinting and pin stripping. Can others chime in ?

    If you factor in these two along with one additional accessory that you received, you could have received a good deal. The worst case scenario would be where you were off by $100. But for a purchase worth $20,000, one hundred dollar difference is not a huge issue.

    Forget about all the numbers. Now it's the time to enjoy your new car ! Report back with mileage and other info in appropriate threads.
  • My dealer said he covers oil changes for first year.
    Not sure of other maintenance. I think it is not covered because I remember dealer talking about warranty and mentioning maintenance is not covered.
  • Tint is about 200-300 depending on dealership.
    You can get it done after market for less but I wanted decent warranty.

    How is your search going?
    Some dealers can be so annoying - throwing bunch of numbers and telling you that they cant lose money on the car.

    With end of year approaching I hope you might the biggest deal of the year.

    Merry Christmas to everyone reading this thread.
  • mpillaiusmpillaius Posts: 10
    edited December 2012
    I tend to believe that a few external factors force the dealer to the best deal, and it is not always the bargaining. I shoped around a bit for a GLS with PEP. The best figure I had so far was $17430+Tax/Title/License+DocFee(125). I went to the dealership, to see whether that was a real car they have in stock, but did not buy it because it did not match the color I wanted, and had a few extra miles on it that most other cars I see had. I had other dealers who wont go less than $18.5K. I had walked out on a dealership for $18K and they did not call me, and I thought that was rock bottom. Apparently NOT, $17430+$125+TTL seems rock bottom to me for GLS-with-PEP for now. But maybe not. But I dont think you will always score the best price. It really depends on the special circumstance the dealer is in.

    But like I said before, after your purchase never look at the numbers. You will just end up unhappy because you can always find somebody who paid less. (there is never a rock bottom).
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    "I tend to believe that a few external factors force the dealer to the best deal, and it is not always the bargaining"

    With all due respect I totally disagree. You never get a better deal without pushing and getting the manager involved. If you think otherwise they tricked you into think you got a good deal.

    Rule #1: Never believe anything a car sales rep says.

    Happy holidays
  • mpillaiusmpillaius Posts: 10
    edited December 2012
    I didnt mean to say you will get a good deal without bargaining. But from my experience different dealerships reacted differently at different instances. For example my bargain ended at 18K at one dealership, and they did not even call me back. But at another dealership they agreed to 17.4K same car/options.

    I sometimes feel sorry for the sales reps (in the end they are trying to make a living. but we hate them since they had to lie to do their job). Most of them might be good persons outside of their dealership. Really it is time to change the way the dealerships do business. With the consumers being more aware of prices, a more transparent business model will probably bring them more business, efficiency, and overall profit.

    By the way most of the dealerships I went to seems to have a shortage of GLS. I am not sure whether that was part of their tacticts or not (to create urgency).
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    I don't know about your procedure but I never ever walk in to the dealer to negotiate a price. I do it all over phone. Once we agree on a final price I then go in.

    Before that I would test drive to determine what I like and want. I then leave. Never combine test drives with price negotiation.

    Also I never believe anything a sales rep says about anything. It's pure business. They are not your friends.
  • I agree- dealers need to be more transparent and work towards haggle free pricing.
    That would encourage more people to get the car they want. I have been procrastinating for almost a year to avoid the harrowing experience.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    I didn't find it harrowing at all. Actually I kind of enjoy it now as I've bought 3 cars in the past 4 months for myself and family. I just do my research as I've explained in this forum, call several dealers and tell them all what my price is. I rarely increase what I decide is the best price.

    Some say no thanks but many agree and thus I buy for several thousands under invoice.
  • If I am understanding correctly, you were able to get the 2013 GLS + PEP package for $17430+ fees?

    Any chance that you have a quote or reciept that you can email/fax to me?

    So far, I've been able get a quote for $17885 for the base package, and (supposedly) another dealer who said that he would beat any offer by $300... but I'd love to go in with the ammo of 'here is a quote/invoice that someone else got.'

    Anything that you have would be greatly appreciated.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    All you need to do is determine the invoice and subtract $2000. That's the price you use when you call dealers.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,922
    I don't have the owner's manual handy but I am pretty sure 7500 miles is the service interval under "normal" conditions, but 3750 miles is the interval under "severe service" conditions... those are defined in the manual. There's quite a few of them, including driving on salted roads (which I do), frequent short trips (ditto), and driving in very cold weather (ditto). Anyway, we only drive our cars about 7500-8000 miles a year so 3750 works out well for oil changes, 2 a year. I don't like to go a year between oil changes with dino oil.

    Also I get free oil changes on my two Hyundais (a dealer thing) every 3750 miles, and they include a thorough inspection and free wash, so... why not?
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    I read in the owners manual about severe conditions. My fathers dealer told him that south Florida is considered severe. I tend to doubt it.

    How do others feel? Is this another dealer rip off?

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,922
    It doesn't matter what the dealer tells your father. What matters is what's in the owner's manual. If none of those conditions apply, it's not "severe service".

    Also consider how many miles your father drives in a year. If he drives 30,000 miles a year, which would mean a lot of highway driving, then oil changes 4 times a year seems about right.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    I agree. I then called 3 south Florida Hyundai dealers. They all suggest 3750.

    The manual actually says 3000 for severe conditions, none of which seem to apply.

    Personally I live in NH and I usually wait to 7000-8000 or longer.

    I considering telling my Dad to wait till maybe 5000, not the 3750 the dealers say.

    Anyone else from south Florida want to chine in?
  • i am in austin. shopping for same car. which dealer and sales person you got it from? Thanks
  • I bought mine in Dallas.
    I went to two dealers. There is big difference in willingness of dealers to come down on price.
    I recommend that you shop around.

    Also please note that I got GLS and not limited. (See my posts for teh accessories)
  • unlv_rebelsunlv_rebels Posts: 32
    edited December 2012
    The extended warranty from Warranty Direct was about $1100 for a plan, a week ago ($100 ded per covered failure visit) called "10/100 PowerWrap Plus" that covers for 10 years/100,000 miles. Few days ago, they agreed for $1050. Today, they agreed for $990.

    I generally don't buy extended warranty for electronics and appliances (laptop, TV, fridge, etc.,). What's the general opinion on Extended Warranty for new cars ? Is it worth paying for it ? It comes to about $99 per year.

    I am little worried about third-party firms. Who knows when they will go out of business. I have seen many reports. Are these third-party firms generally not backed by any other firm ?

    Thanks in Advance.
  • unlv_rebelsunlv_rebels Posts: 32
    edited December 2012
    I have insurance with Allstate and they have new car coverage for 3 years.

    When you purchase this coverage:
    - Allstate can help pay to repair an insured new car you own or lease without a deduction for depreciation if the car is damaged in a covered accident.
    - If you total an insured new car you own in a covered loss, this coverage can help pay to replace it with a brand new car.
    - In certain circumstances, we will help pay the difference between what you may owe on an original auto lease or auto loan for your insured vehicle and the actual cash value of that vehicle at the time of a covered total loss.

    It appears that coverage like GAP will be useful especially, if one buys a car with zero down. The new car coverage from Allstate acts like GAP for the first 3 years. My loan is for 6 yrs.

    Example: Loan: $20,000; Int: 3.9%; Duration: 72 months; EMI: $311.99
    At end of 36 months: Balance: $10,583.39

    Hence, if something bad happens after 36 months, hopefully, the car's value would be close to $10,000. According to KBB, the projected resale value after 3 years is $10,885. Thus, I may not need GAP coverage beyond third year of the loan. Am I right ? Any suggestions. TIA.
  • mpillaiusmpillaius Posts: 10
    edited December 2012
    Michelle if you dont mind driving a bit try dealers in San Antonio as well. Not sure why, but Austin dealers thought a GLS with PEP will never be sold for less than 17.5K, and their best offer was around 18.5K. Anyway even though I got all the way upto 17.4K from dealers outside of Austin (GLS with PEP), I finally ended up with an Altima-2.5SV for around 1.5K more.
  • i have been shopping a sonata limited with the premium package in white with mud guards bumper protection i pod cable mats and wheel locks in the south fl area and have an out the door price of 26,600 including all incentives. is this a good price or do you think i can get it for lower?
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    What is the invoice price on this specific car with your options?
    Then what is the price before taxes, title, etc?

    Make sure no doc fees.

    Don't talk OTD price here since taxes and plates vary by state.

  • piezonpiezon Posts: 23
    I bought the exact same car (in white) back in June with the same options.
    I only qualified for a $500 rebate back then so my OTD price was about $700 higher than yours. It appears that you might have gotten a little better deal but I got mine when the 2013's first came out and the end of the year incentives might be a little higher and their motivation to sell might also be a little greater. Good luck. It's a great car and we love it.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    As I've said several times you can get all $2000 of incentives by just lowering your asking price accordingly. Piece a cake. The trick is to not mention incentives in the conversation.

    Many people have done this .
  • Hello All,

    I wanted to buy a Sonata SE back in July but the lowest offer I received was $23,000 OTD. MRSP of the car was about $24,400 and TTL was about $2K, tax here is 6%. $23K was more than I was willing to pay so I held out until now. We really need a car now so I have to buy a car before 2013. What do you guys think would be a fair price for a SE right now? I am not picky about the options but would definitely want push to start (not sure if this is standard or not). I was thinking $22K OTD would be a fair price since there is the $1.5K rebate now and back in July, it was only $500. Please give me your opinions. TIA!
  • I got mine here in Dallas for 19k.
    I know it is higher than 17.5 or 18k deals but when first dealer would not go below 20k, I decided to take it from second dealer. I did get all accessories though including tint.
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