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Older S-10's



  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    do you live in the South bend area?

    HMMM $58 a tire isnt bad. I live 1.5 hrs away wouldnt be a bad deal and also a friend of mine can get a small discount there
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Thanks, Bob, for reviving this thread. Will it be moved to the S-10 owners club? Would get more traffic that way, I'll bet.

  • gcosh1gcosh1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 S-10, which I bought a year ago for $3k. It now has 102k miles on it. I have a long bed 4.3L V6. I recently put a new catalytic converter and muffler on it, which improved performance dramatically. I am very happy with how the truck runs, my only complaint is that I have a rear wheel drive model, and the handling is absolutely awful here in the Midwest in the snow. Even 300lbs of tube sand in the truck bed has a negligible effect, so I have to drive very cautiously & carefully in snow and ice.
  • jim4444jim4444 Posts: 124
    Maybe you need some good tires? Ask anyone with a new S10 what they think about the uniroyals that come with it.

    My friend also has a S10, I have good tires, Michelins, and he uses sand bags in the bed.

    I only slide around when I want to!

    Does your truck have positraction?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Hey everyone, why no posting?

    As long as I'm here, I will tell you that my little truck has over 146K miles on it now, and I have personally put over 12K on it since I bought it last summer.

    Still looking and running great! Love it!

  • rmyers76rmyers76 Posts: 34
    160K miles down on my 91, 40K more to go before I can put it to sleep.

    Only new problem to report is a minor (but frustrating) electrical problem. My dome light went out and I can't seem to get it fixed. I replaced the bulb but that didn't help. Got out the volt meter and no juice getting to the light. The lights at the floor level light up which are on the same circuit as the dome so a fuse isn't the problem.

    Oh well, if I get some time I will be tracing the wiring and trying to find an answer.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Thanks for posting. Geez, I thought I might be the only one left in here!

  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Puter been no post ! Dads 99 S 10 30k
    trouble free miles ! Hes hauling winter
    debris to the dump today !
    Yup, Hard working, long lastin, Chevys !
    Stay cool dude !...Geo
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  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Sure has been quiet in here for a long time!

    Nothing new to report, but my little truck has over 147,000 on it now and is still doing great.

    Let's have some posting!

  • joey300mjoey300m Posts: 14
    Just located this board and read all the messages. I have a 85 whose engine was replaced with a 4.3 liter
    at 75,000 miles. Had to do tranny work at 180,000 (spun O/D gear) and replaced clutch. Other than the fact that body is showing lots of rust since the original owner lived at Mass. shore, can say this truck has been great. Used it to plow the NY snow and with the 4.3liter and 4 wheel,and it definetly kept upwith the big boys. Kept telling my wife, let's get through this winter, let's hit 200,000 miles etc. but we made both of them and it still goes. Lots of minor things like, a stuck drivers window, broken lock cylinder etc. but this has been a great machine. Since I work construction, I'm not too concerned about its' esthetics just as long it gets me the 60 miles I drive daily to work.

    PS. With the oil filter so eaily accessed, oil changes at every 2,000 seems like the least I could do. Other things repaired: heater core, water pump.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Thanks for the post. Hope you will be a regular contributor here. We have certainly been lacking in posts for a long time.

    These S10s are great little trucks, aren't they. You said you read all the posts, so you know that my '89 is in fantastic condition and I got a killer deal on it last summer.

    I absolutely love it and couldn't ask for a better work truck. Hardly ever haul anything, but pickups are sure handy once in a while.

  • NativeTxNativeTx Posts: 10
    Just wanted to post. I have the 91 S-10 Blazer with 4.3 auto. I now have 155K on the truck and it still runs fine. Thinking about a paint job now. The truck needs some cosmetic work done but so far still runs fine. Always nice to stop by here and see what's going on.
  • fastdoggfastdogg Posts: 2
    I have an 89 s10 with 206K miles bought it with 135K miles. Put crate 4.3 in it with 193K. Has 3 inch exhaust from cat back and flowmaster. Also has K&N air filter. Runs strong. I think it was painted just before I got it and paint is getting tired again.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    I haven't posted in a while, but neither has anyone else. :(

    My little truck rolled over on 148,000 miles the other day. It's still running great, and I just took it on a business trip of close to 200 miles one way.

    I haven't checked gas mileage for that trip yet, but the previous tank checked out at 25.3 MPG.

    I drove 70 to 75 MPH with the A/C on most of the trip, but I'll bet I still got 27 ot 28 MPG. I will fill up later today and will post the gas mileage.

    I think the oil consumption, which was only about one half to three quarters of a quart between changes, has gotten better since I switched to Valvoline Max Life oil.

    Catch you guys later.


    P.S. For those who don't know me or know about my truck, I have an '89 S-10 SWB regular cab pickup with the 2.8 V6 and a five speed tranny. I bought it on 7/16/01 when it had 134,502 miles on it.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    I said I expected that the mileage would check out at 27 ot 28 MPG for my trip, but it was actually 26.8 MPG.

  • ntaylorntaylor Posts: 13
    Except for swapping out the original engine for a crate engine, some body work and replacing a couple windshields, I've done most of the work myself on my '88 S-10 Blazer 4.3 4x4. Changing the fuel pump by myself is something I hope to never do again.

    Anyway, ever since swapping the engine I've had the following problem(s): 1) the A/C doesn't get nearly as cool as it used to. I don't know if this has anything to do with the shop's requirement to swap the R-12 with enviro-friendlier R-34. 2) with the A/C going, the compressor is constantly (every 2 seconds or so) kicking in an out. I think this is part of the problem with #3. 3) when stopped at a stop light, or even while in park, every so often it feels like someone is running in to me, like a big "miss" in the engine or something. Battery is fine, alternator is fine. I think if the constant on and off switching of the compressor were fixed then all might be well. Maybe I just need to refill the R-34? Any suggestions or advice would be nice. And, if its refillinig the freon, yes I know - don't try this at home.

  • stubborn1stubborn1 Posts: 85
    I had similar problems with the AC compressor kicking in and out every 2 seconds on my S10. If there is not enough refrigerant pressure, the AC will kick out instead of staying engaged. I had the system charged with R-12 (a few years ago when you could buy it) and the problem went away.

    I haven't been brave enough to try and switch to R-134A yet. Hopefully the old R-12 will hold on for two more years before I dump my truck.

  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    You can put me down for that problem too. My compressor has been kicking in and out like that ever since I bought my truck last summer.

    I have been told that the system probably needs to be charged, but I have just never gotten around to it. I have heard that it is really expensive to have it filled with the old refridgerant, and that if I have it converted to the new stuff, it will be even more expensive and will not cool as well as it does with the old stuff.

    I know it is not good for the A/C to run it low on refridgerant, so I need to get something done before using it all summer.

  • ntaylorntaylor Posts: 13
    When the dealership was replacing my engine, they informed me that since they also had to drain the original R-12 that they were required (by law?) to replace it with the new stuf (R-134A). Seems like they always leave a different screw loose so that they can keep you coming back. :(

  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    What did the conversion to the new R-134A cost ya?

    Also, does your AC cool as well with the new stuff as it did with the R12?


  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    There is NO law mandating changeover to R-134a on a system set up for R-12. Why, then, do some dealers say that? Well, other than the fact that some dealers are so slimy, they leave an ooze trail when they walk, it is simply economics.

    R-134a costs as little as $3 per 12 ounce can, but even at wholesale levels, R-12 costs as much as $25-40 per pound. Most systems require from 2-6 pounds of freon. If a dealer kept R-12 in your system, but in 30 days you developed a leak and he has to fix it under warranty, guess who pays? He does.....

    Chances are, when he did your A/C system, he put new hoses or had the rubber parts of the old hoses replaced, so the rest of the conversion usually consists of a flush, new oil, new O-rings and a few other extras. If your condenser wasn't big enough for R-134a, he wouldn't have done the conversion in the first place.

    Most conversions to R-134a these days are virtually invisible to the customer if a quality shop is doing the work. The secret is having a tech who knows how to work and fine tune a system using R-134a for the best performance, having a good fan and a condenser large enough to handle the heat.

    Good luck!

  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Just had my walkin cooler lines repaired.
    It was a r-12 system. The refrige repair
    guy used something called "hot shot".
    Its a r-12 substitute ! Cooler works fine !
    Not sure of the mfr. tho......geo
  • ntaylorntaylor Posts: 13
    When I was in for my annual "state inspection" last week I asked about the A/C and was told that it is still using R-12 (i.e. no conversion was ever made), and that it is likely that all I'd need is a pound or two of R-12, totaling ~$100. So, I'm taking it in tomorrow while the boss is out. :) If they tell me that its a bad evaporator core or a leak near the core, I'm going to live with it (just too darn hard to do work under the dash).

  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    If your dealer first told you they HAD to convert it to 134a (which they don't) then you found out there was no conversion done, and now they want to get you in telling you it may only need a pound or two, when you know it will likely need other repairs, sounds like you need a new dealer!

    If they lied to you once, and it sounds like they are about to pull the ol' bait-and-switch once your truck is in their service bay, why use them?

    Find a good independent shop you can BELIEVE! There's enough liars and used car salesmen posing as service writers in this business without giving them more of your money. If you DO go somewhere else, be sure and call the former shop and tell the manager why you took your business somewhere else.

    By the way, I just had a leak fixed in my 2000 S-10. It was the O-ring going into the accumulator. If they claim a component is leaking, ask them to check or replace the O-rings first unless they are sure it is a hard part that has failed. O-rings are cheap to replace when compared to hard parts. If you can get into the shop and have the technician show you the leak, notice if his freon detector goes off when he is around a hard part, or if it goes off when it is near a connector. If the connection is leaking, you may only need a new seal or O-ring.

  • ntaylorntaylor Posts: 13
    Well, as painful as it is, here is how it stands today. I found an independent shop that I HOPE I can trust to perform the A/C service. They called me and informed me that the system had a grand total of 4-1/2 oz. of R-12 in it and that it needed 19 oz. They said that they were not able to detect any leaks, but they did put the dye so I could monitor things over the next weeks/months. They tried to convince me to convert to R-134A ($275). I thought about it and felt that since I really never did have A/C after the engine replacement that the dealership simply must not have replaced the R-12 at all. I'm guessing that they either did not collect it properly or that they did not put it back. I guess I could go back to the dealership and complain, but I don't think they wouldn't do a thing about it at this point (2 years after they put in the new engine). So, in either case I might just try to use this incident as an opportunity for them to earn back my business when that time comes (I've got $2500 in gmcard $ and have been in the market for a new truck for a while). The main problem with this idea is that the only connection between the service and the sales departments is the owner. Who knows how far my gripes about service problems are going to go with a sales person. I guess I can try to get them to throw in all the extra warranty stuff. Then simply let them know that I think that other dealerships might be more interested in my business.

    Duped or just stupid? Right now I feel a little of both. I may regret not converting. If things go wrong w/ the A/C I will probably just let it go. Afterall, its going to be my kids' car in a couple of years, and I'm sure that any wheels, A/C or not, will be more than acceptable to them. (The '62 Buick Special I drove in H.S. had 460 A/C - - 4 windows down and go 60 mph)

    My next job is stripping and painting the hood. Anyone recommend a good paint stripper? I plan to do this in my garage on top of plastic/tarp.

    Have a good day!
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Usually when replacing an engine the mech will take every effort to not disconnect an R12 system. Unbolt the compressor and lay it aside. I'd suspect the system was low to start with and maybe pulling on the hoses lost some more, and some since has leaked. Todays AC shops use an ultrasonic leak check that takes about 2 minutes to pinpoint a leak, near 100 percent accurate unless it is a high pressure leak. If I were keeping the truck for any length of time I would certainly convert to R134a HFC. Real simple to shoot in a can every couple years. If done right the cooling capacity would be nearly the same, you wouldn't notice any difference.
    I'd use chemical strip on the hood. Zip Strip or Bix. Messy but you get a real smooth finish to paint over.
  • ntaylorntaylor Posts: 13
    Thanks, tommc. The A/C system may have been low to begin with, but when I took it in for the work it was as cold as it was the day I bought it. I'm going to call and ask what they do w/ the A/C when they replace an engine. Really, its history now.

    Also thanks for the tip on the chemical strip. I definitely wasn't going to sand, but I really didn't have any idea of what stripper to go with. Can you tell me if these are generally available?

    (The cracking paint is actually the result of another mediocre warranty job way back when. I am much more impressed with the factory paint and finish jobs I'm seeing nowadays)

  • jgaines1jgaines1 Posts: 2
    My truck has turned 240,000 miles, (4.3, 4x4, automatic),the last three years plowing snow in the winter, pulling a boat in the summer. Its got some rust, but no mechanical problems until this year. Consumer reports should have rate this model tops! I will need another 4.3 before it hits 260,000, but I would say that should be expected.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    VERY impressive! These little trucks are the greatest, ain't they?

    My S10 rolled over on 149K on a short business trip yesterday, and I got 27.9 MPG for the trip! I was driving 70 to 75 MPH with the AC on too. I have the 2.8 V6 and a five speed in an '89 S10 SWB two wheel drive pickup.

    Gotta love 'em. :)

This discussion has been closed.