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  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If you have gas bubbling from a valve on top of the engine, you need to NOT start it or drive it. Have it towed to a garage. You'll have a high probability of engine fire.
  • Thank you, I did think of that. Do you have any ideas about the problem? The battery is only a year old, but will not hold a charge. And the fuel leak appeared at the same time. Are the two problems related? Or just a coincedence? Thanks for any advice you can give.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It's a coincedence.

    A battery and a fuel leak aren't related unless someone whacked the fuel rail with the 40 pound battery.
  • Thanks bolivar. I had the battery checked and it came up good. I think I'll look for a bad wire, and have the alternator checked. As far as the fuel leak goes, I'll try to tighten or replace the valve core-it looks like a valve stem on a tire, so why not? I'll let you know how it goes.
  • dcw41dcw41 Posts: 5
    If the daytime running lights come on, but the lights don't work using the switch, what is the problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If you can get a set of electrical schematics for your vehicle, I'll help you shoot this problem.
  • dcw41dcw41 Posts: 5
    Where would I get the schematics? A dealership?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I always buy a complete set of factory service manuals for my vehicles, and they include complete electrical schematics. has manuals, and for some makes they have an online subscription for 2 days which gets you access to the service manuals, and it's $10 bucks. I just looked real quick, but I don't think they offer that for the least I didn't see it first pass looking.

    you might check a large autoparts chain, they carry some (non-mfg) manuals...not as detailed, don't know if they'd have schematics....don't even know if they'd have a tracker.

    might try searching the internet.

    This varies significantly by mfg, year, light layout, and even trim it would be hard to shoot this with generic electrical info. I'm betting you have a couple different relays that are utilized for your beams, to shift between DRL and High beams, low beams and DRL.

    As you've found, you run the risk of just throwing unnecessary parts at it, unless you can get a set of schematics and see what all is involved and how they have it wired.

    If you can get your hands on schematic, scan it and/or send me a fax to my carspace id, and I'll help you figure this out.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,582
    Where would I get the schematics? A dealership? sells online subscriptions to the technical information for your vehicle.
    Helminc has disks and manuals.

    Your local library may even have Alldata online at the library or may have manuals.
  • It turns out the leaky valve sprayed gas on the alternator, knocking it out. I replaced the valve core and alternator. It's running good now, except the radiator fan nows runs constantly, even when the engine is cold. Does anyone know what causes this? Thanks for any advice.
  • Nevermind, I managed to get the wires off and I changed all the wires. But, I could only change the plug on the first cylinder because I kept getting the spark plug tool stuck in the hole. I tightened it with the wire and I'm sure that it will be ok because it was pretty secure in the hole. But, I think I should tighten it further and I want to change the rest of the plugs. So, I was wondering if there was a trick to keeping the socket on the ratchet rather than having it come off in the hole?
  • It's a 2004 Aveo.

    OK, I just bought this car three weeks ago and I am fixing it up because I'm a perfectionist and like to have my cars idle perfectly. I have a rough idle and want to check the plugs. When I got to where the spark plug wires, I could not get the wires off! I managed to get one off the coil, so I know I can do it. But, I can't get any off of the plugs. I am very cautious about doing this because the car is so new to me and I don't want to damage the wires without being committed to changing them.

    I've seen what the wires look like and they have a really long boot into a really deep hole. Is there a trick to getting them off if they are stuck? Also, what size spark plug socket do I need to get? And, what if the wires break and get stuck in the hole?
  • They make a tool available at auto supply stores that aid in safely removing the sparkplug wires.
  • Thanks, I got the wires off and changed, but now I have a problem with the socket getting stuck in the hole. I tightened one plug with the wire and it seems pretty snug, but would like the change the rest of the plugs.

    I used the wire to tighten the first plug and it seems snug. I saw somewhere that mentioned using a rubber hose to tighten it, too. I might try that on another one. I just hope they're tight enough. The wires are pretty snug in there, so I doubt they will blow out.

    I also saw another tool with a handle long enough so that the socket and handle are all one piece. I might get that and use that to tighten while using the regular socket wrench to take them out.
  • i have an 89 dodge ram 50 that needs new o rings. i need to know if this is a job that i could do myself . it has a 2.6 liter engine. i would consider my self above average when it comes to do it yourself projects.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Using the wire to tighten the plug, is no way near tight enough.
  • Thanks. I actually got a t-tool and managed to tighten them up the way I like it. I tightened them to where they were snug and tried to turn it about 1/4 to 1/2 inch further. Usually, this works fine unless I have a PCV issue. I will check to see if any are loose in a week or so before I take a long trip.
  • watt476watt476 Posts: 9
    Does anyone know why this is? It runs constantly, even when the motor's cold.
    Any help would be appreciated.
  • I have a 01 Mazda b3000 went to have the fuel filter changed and was told that they could not get lines off on the tank side of the filter. this supposedly is a common problem that requires the fuel lines from the tank to be changed. is it possible to splice these lines as opposed to dropping the tank and replacing them.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,349
    Sounds like a bad temperature sensor. It thinks your engine is hot and grounds the circuit for the fan. Or a loose wire to the sensor is grounding.

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,349
    If you mean splice them with neoprene hose that can be risky, since they could be pulled off on the road if you drag over something; also, unlike under the hood, these flexible lines are exposed to far more severe weather conditions.

    One would also have to consider where the splice was made.

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  • wbunchwbunch Posts: 2
    hello am new to this site am restoring a 67 beetle it is a bajb and i need some help thx wayne
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,349
    First off you should read through books like this one:

    Baja Bugs and Buggies

    do a lot of homework before you begin a project like this, is my first advice, and plan out and budget out what you want to accomplish.

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  • rws800rws800 Posts: 4
    got a 67 chevy, 283, hedders, edelbrock manifold & edelbrock 1405 600 cfm performer carburetor.
    Problems while exercising my car I turned into a lot and it died. Got it started but it would not run unless the RPM's were kept up a little. So I figured time for new mechanical fuel pump. Installed new Holley 110GPM. Started up good idle, drove down the road nice and thought I'd get my foot into it a little. As I let up on gas to turn around it died as before. Start up & had to RPM up somewhat. Now same ole keep RPM up or dies and some popping. In playing with it today a good shot of fire came out of carb. The distributor is not stock ie points etc It has the look of a Summit HEI power type. I'm guessing carb float adjustment or rebuild or maybe timing. Thanks for any help. Rick
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well if you have fire out of the carb, then either you have a camshaft timing problem (your whole valve timing is off), a valve problem (one intake valve leaking), or your ignition timing is way off.

    Valves should be shut, when the cylinder mixture is compressed, and then ignited by the spark plug. If the intake valve is still open when ignition occurs, then the fire backs up thru the intake manifold and out the carb.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,582
    How did you, or did you adjust the float?
    Sounds like the float level is way too high.
    When you turn or decellerate, the fuel sloshes out of the float bowl.
    Or, the needle and seat are leaking by.
    It will cause similar symptoms to being advanced.

    Any fuel leaks in the carb?
    Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
  • rws800rws800 Posts: 4

    Thank you for the response.
    I had thought of timing issues but wasn't sure if I was on track.
    I also need to gear up and purchase timing light etc. I haven't fooled with the older cars for a long, long time and those days were the 60's & 70.s. So I am rusty .

    I'll keep you informed as to the fix.
    Thanks again

  • rws800rws800 Posts: 4

    Thanks for the response.
    No I did no work on the carb as all was working great and then at idle the engine died.
    Even by keeping the RPM's up and on higher end all things were good, so that's why I changed out the fuel pump. After changing out fuel pump it ran good as I went up the road, say 35 or 40, then after getting into the gas it went great but upon decellerating it again died . Same problems as before so I let it set for a while.
    I think there some issues with the carb & timing.
    Got it running today only at higher RPM's (1200 or 1400) Then I heard some back firing through carb.

    Thanks again

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Do a compression test on each of the cylinders
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,349
    And check for a vacuum leak, too.

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