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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair



  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    Let me dig it out....I've got ot here somewhere.
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    I go to a private repair shop. I used to go to the Olds dealer where I bought the car and, after the demise of Olds to a Cadillac dealer. I figured they would be the best folks to diagnose and fix based on their experience with the car, brand, and technical service bulletins. But once the car moved off extended warranty, and after reading all the horror stories in this forum, I moved this car to my local mechanic who worked on all my other cars over the years without incident.

    Radiator ($339), thermostat ($35), thermostat seal ($13), upper radiator hose ($34), water pump ($109), lower radiator hose ($29), antifreeze ($26), shop supplies ($29). Total parts $614.

    Radiator remove and replace ($187), water pump, thermostat, gasket, upper and lower hoses ($170). Total labor $357.

    Total parts and labor: $971.

    THIS POST WILL HAVE A TON OF GUYS JUMP IN AND TELL YOU HOW AND WHERE YOU CAN GET THIS DONE CHEAPER. My experience doing business with this repair guy for 15 years: it's fixed the first time in, and on time; no bring backs; no breakdowns; pick up and drop off. If he says he fixed it, it's fixed.

    If you read posts in this forum about Aurora issues and fixes, they smack of "replace parts, write checks, and pray the problem goes away, if ever."

    It is normal for me to see the repair facility owner stroll out weeks after the repair when I am getting gas and without saying a word first checks the coolant level and then asking me if there are any problems.

    I'm older. I subscribe to the adage you (hopefully) get what you pay for. This doesn't always seem to be the case with car repairs. So when I hook up with a facility and an owner that seems to get it right every time, I stop second guessing the price. Customer loyalty is a two way street. I pay for results, not good intentions. And by the way, the peace of mind has a price tag too.

    Good luck.
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Posts: 34
    Thanks, I wholeheartedly agree with you. I wish I could find a mechanic/shop that is 100% trustworthy. Sounds like the cost for these repairs is about right on. The only item that I would like to see a little cheaper is the radiator. Where do you live, maybe I can get in on that auto shop? Anyways thanks for all the input!! I appreciate that it will help me make some informed decisions, I hope all goes smooth.

  • quinsquins Posts: 2
    Olds aurora 97 rattles when making right turn...when placed on lift it didnt make the noise...any ideas ?
  • exchefexchef Posts: 5
    Sounds like CV joint, look to see if grease is coming out of the boots or if one is torn or missing then that would confirm it. If it is the motor that rattles then that is another thing entirely.
    Just check the CV joint boots first, just because the boots look good don't mean the joint isn't bad but, if the boot is bad then the joint is or will soon be.
  • Wow thats crazy i have a 97 aurora w/ the 4.0 my car does the same thing but backwarks when i first got it it had a really bad misfire i did a tune up and found out the 1 n 7 wire were mixed up but after that the car ran perfect! about a week later the car runs n drives perfect untill it warms up then i go to stop and no signs it jus shuts right off. i did scan it and it has 4 codes pertaining to the iac sensor can someone help me out i know nuthin about this motor never really worked on the northstar that much and since i no longer work at a shop i cant pull it up on alldata! where is the iac sensor located?

    and the other problem im having is when you open the drivers door the radio wont turn off when the car is shut off i have to open another door to get it to go off>?
  • aurand210aurand210 Posts: 9
    Did you ever figure out what the problem is? I have an 02' and man, my dream car has turned into a nightmare. I replaced teh motor in teh door, I put in a new battery, I put in a rebuilt engine because headgaskets went out and now the stupid thing starts when it wants to. The mechanic has looked at it twice now and cant figure out what the problem is but does not think it's the starter. It's sounds pretty much like your problem. HELP! :confuse:
  • laurieg1laurieg1 Posts: 3
    I have had my car to 2 different mechanics & of course it always starts for them so they can not figure it out. The current one thinks that it is the starter but wants it to act up just to make sure. He is currently working on the blower motor because thats not working right either. If I hear something I will let you know. :cry:
  • 99dodge99dodge Posts: 15
    If the car is shutting down when it is hot or not starting soon after you shut it down .The ignition module is heating up and failing.It rests under the 4 coil packs have it checked.
  • exchefexchef Posts: 5
    The iac is located in or near the throttle body, on GM's I can usually take it off and clean it up and lubricate it good and it will be fine...not always but don't buy a cheap one.
    Your car should be acting funny(fast idle or eratic idle etc.)if the iac is going out,it usually don't just quit.....check your fuel pressure.
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    The great thing about this Forum is that it provides suggestions and answers to issues specific to this one brand and model. And if you can't find your problem in the archives by doing a search, you can simply post here and get feedback from folks who have been there, done that. What was tried. What worked. What didn't.

    I signed on 10 years ago and bought a used 1998 Autobahn Aurora. I have not ducked some expensive repairs. I use a local mechanic because he flat out diagnoses issues and fixes them first pass, no bringbacks YET. But during the past 2 years (aging car), thanks to this Forum and its selfless members, I have been able to do some research or inquiries on my particular problems before I took the car in and provide that heads-up to my mechanic.

    The back up plan to my local mechanic is always the local Cadillac dealer that also was a long time Olds dealer. They have seen it all with this car, and many times. I just don't like their price tag on the repairs and prefer to support my local busness who has provided excellent service at a fair price, as well as pick up and return of the car.

    Thanks to exchef and 99dodge for jumping in here. PLEASE keep us posted on the results of their recommendations. All of us will benefit.
  • stanyellestanyelle Posts: 1
    i have an 2003 olds aurora 4.0 with 123000 miles on it. i have had it for about a 1 1/2 years. i do love my car but since i have had it i have put thousands of dollars in to it. currently my problem with the car is a very bad oil leak and a small coolant leak and also my rims are so bad that they do not hold air in the tires. i did buy new rims but not sure if i should put them on yet due to the fact that when i get one thing fixed another thing goes wrong. also the motor to my windshield wiper fluid doesnt work and my interior light fuse keeps blowing out. like i said i do love my car but there are times when i hate it. the car runs fine. what i want to know is should i sell it and let it be someone elses problem or just get it fixed. :sick:
  • zazozazo Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 aurora can you give me a list of tools needed and step-by-step instructions to change front wheel bearings my email is thank-you
  • dkocchidkocchi Posts: 6
    I have a 95 Aurora and it recently started to leak fuel in the engine compartment. I have heard about the fuel rail recall and was wondering is that rail under the car or in the engine compartment. I have 3 fuel lines that are coming into the engine compartment it looks like 1 or 2 of them are leaking at the fitting. Is this the recall culpret?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,334
    Product Safety - Engine Fuel Rail - Replace

    # 04014C - (Oct 1, 2004)
    1995-1997 Cadillac DeVille Concours, Seville, Eldorado
    1996-1997 Cadillac DeVille

    Equipped with 4.6L V8 (RPO LD8 - VIN Y; RPO L37 - VIN 9) Engine

    1995-1997 Oldsmobile Aurora

    Equipped with 4.0L V8 (RPO L47 - VIN C) Engine



    General Motors has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in all 1995-1997 Cadillac DeVille Concours, Seville and Eldorado, 1996-1997 Cadillac DeVille; and 1995-1997 Oldsmobile Aurora model vehicles. These vehicles have a condition in which the original equipment nylon tubing used in the fuel rail construction may degrade and crack. Additionally, the 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora uses a unique underhood fuel return line that may crack at unusually high rates. Cracking of the fuel rail can result in a fuel leak into the engine compartment. The operator may experience fuel odor and possibly engine stalling due to loss of fuel pressure to the engine. If this event were to occur, and if an ignition source were present, an engine compartment fire could occur.


    Dealers are to inspect and, if necessary, replace the engine fuel rail with a new stainless steel fuel rail. Dealers will also replace the chassis fuel lines on 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora model vehicles from serial # S4100001 to S4147771

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    I see that our host answered your question. The fuel rail is on top of the engine and feeds each of the eight injectors. The return line runs under the car. Get it fixed quick! Several Auroras have been lost to fire.
  • gmfamilygmfamily Posts: 2
    Hi Les,

    Been watching your posts through the years since I bought my 99 in '01. Have over 104,000 on it and i hope to add another 104,000. I just replaced my oil pressure switch but am having a hard time reconnecting the wire, as there is a motor mount (and exhaust pipe) in my way. I could reconnect it prior to screwing in the switch, but there's too much torsion in the wiring as I'm threading it in to provide a tight connection. Any special technique/suggestions in reconnecting, or do i just need a contortionist's hand?

    Thanks in advance and arrears for your advice over the years!

  • dkocchidkocchi Posts: 6
    The line that was leaking is my return fuel line and my vehicle falls between the serial # indicated. Those lines are about $300 each hopefully the dealer will replace. I looked back on my records and the fuel rail has already be replaced. I have been also having issues with the car hesitating under a load, maybe this fuel pressure issue may be a contributing factor. Hopefully.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573

    Thanks for the compliment. What you describe is a job I have not done. If I understand the problem correctly, you may be able to wind several turns on the wire prior to threading the switch into place, so that the wire unwinds as the switch is seated.

    Good luck.

  • boylostboylost Posts: 3
    I have a repair manual for my 1996 Olds Aurora/Riviera. The manual I have is book Book 2 of 2 Includes; Driveabiliy and Emissions, Transmission/Transaxle Diagnosis and Elecctrical. I will offer it up here before I list it on Ebay. The manual is in very good condition.

    If interested please let me know I will hold it for 2 weeks. I would put a value on this manual of at least $60.00 - $80.00 plus the cost of shipping.
  • mastecutormastecutor Posts: 18
    I had the same problem. Other person description is quite detailed and goes into
    a different direction. check the easy solution first. Take a can of contact cleaner,

    pull back the rubber housing around the headlight switch stick and you will see electrical contacts inside. squirt a few shots of contact cleaner in this area and
    toggle your light switch on and off a few times to be sure the contact cleaner got in the areas of concern. This cleaned up my issue in no time.

    I have heard other pay dearly for a new switch housing and sending upwards to 500$. When you could have just bought a 2 dollar can of contact cleaner and a few Q-tips.

  • shadetmshadetm Posts: 4
    Had the same problem on my 98 olds-found answer on Emonds-replace both
    crankcase sensors, about $210, by good mechanic-never recurred after that.
  • shadetmshadetm Posts: 4
    Re: Headlite switch fix on 98 olds aurora-make sure you get the contact cleaner
    in all 3 openings & spray generously, turn floor mat over to prevent staining carpet.
    I used penetrating oil first-then finished with carb cleaner-problem solved!!
    Also I just recently started using 89 octane instead of 93 and my mileage improved
    to 23mpg! Sincerely Shadetm
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Not sure from top of head, but I believe 4.0 has crankshaft plus two camshaft sensors.
  • I have a 1995 Aurora.....4.0 ltr. v8

    when I shift from park into reverse there is a large jarring thunk......ditto shifting from park to drive, but not as pronounced.

    no tranny problems when driving.

    I have not fully investigated as it just began today.....

    I would guess that I likely have a broken engine/tranny mount....

    can anyone shed some light on this???? or been thru this problem??

    and advise on mount replacing proceedure??

    Thanks a lot...Ian
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    You didn't say if this clunk occurs when from a cold start or when warm also. Or at what RPM. Or if you can feel/hear the same condition between coasting and accelerating.

    This response probably won't help you, but when I purchased my 1998 in 7/98 used (Olds dealer manager's car), the first thing I noticed (foot on brake) was the amount of "play" between nuetral and drive, and nuetral and reverse. No clunk as you describe, but a short but noticeable delay in gear engagement engagement accompanied by a definite feel of the engagement, a slight bump in feel. RPM was normal. I thought this annoying play was unusual, particularly for a car that stickered for $40,000.

    I pointed out "play" out to the manager, and he had a mechanic come out and check......mechanic then said it was "normal" play for this vehicle. So I purchased the Aurora with the caveat that even though the car was under full factory warranty, I would be one really dissatisfied customer if the "issue" turned out to be "something."

    I have owned several automatics and manual transmission cars with rear wheel drive, and this play or even a clunk was usually traced back to the differential, the drive shaft universal joints, or the rear independant axels' universal joints. And while I have had CV joints relaced on fwd cars, there wasn't this type of noticeable clunk you describe. Not attributed to a broken engine mount either.

    I'm at 95,000 miles and the "play" has neither gone away nor worsened. I never did like the car reminding me of this "play" in the drive train, especially when driving with the cruise control on, particularly on hills where the car coasts downhill and then re-engages when more throttle is called for.

    You would be doing a lot of us a favor if you let us know what your mechanic finds.

  • Jack, the clunk I have occurs at idle speed, car parked and when shifted into either forward or reverse a large jarring movement is transferred that jars the entire car violently....that is why I suspect a broken mount.

    I will have a friend shift the car at standstill with hood open so I can observe the engine movement to confirm my suspiscion.

    The delayed engagement that you described also is typical of my car, if that is any consolation and I describe it as a mild annoyance.

    As for advising further of mechanic's findings...I am the mechanic....and I will be happy to relate what I find once I dig into it....

    cheers, Ian ;)
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    As for advising further of mechanic's findings...I am the mechanic....and I will be happy to relate what I find once I dig into it....


    Make sure you get a written quote on parts and labor, and a written warranty.....from yourself. If anything goes south on the fix, you will then be in a position to take yorself to court for damages. :D

    Good luck,
  • minger3minger3 Posts: 1
    I repaired my 97 Aurora with just a $5 can of electra clean. I disconnected the battery and pulled the rubber boot out on the signal switch and sprayed the cleaner from top,bottom and sides with the nozzle supplied on the can. I let it sit 1/2 hour and re connected the battery, It has been fine for over 6 months. I did not have to take anything apart except pull the boot back on the switch by the column cover. Be sure to spray from all angles if you do it this way. My lights were flashing on and off for over 10 months before this quick fix.
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