Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair



  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    This may be of no benefit to the discussion, but my 98 just turned 101,000 miles and uses 1 quart of 10-30 conventional by about 3,500 miles when I get the oil changed. Over the life of the car, the oil pressure readings have not changed much and, assuming the gauge is not dead on accurate, I haven't been concerned with the oil pressure readings under various operating conditions.

    Summer idle cold idle @ ~ 700 rpm: 59 psi
    Summer hot idle @ ~ 700 rpm: 8-9 psi
    Summer cruising hot @ ~ 1950 rpm & 60 mph: 28-34 psi
    Winter cold idle @ ~ 1000 rpm: ?
    Winter hot idle @ ~ 700 rpm: 12-14 psi
    Winter cruising after cold start @ 1950 rpm: 73 psi
    Winter cruising hot @ ~ 1950 rpm & 60 mph: 36-38 psi

    Original sender, pump, and gauge. I'd be interested if everyone elses' experience is similar.


  • My 97 has the same oil pressures at those RPM's.
    I change my oil and filter at 7,000 miles. I use 10-30 Pennzoil and it doesn't use any.
    I have 117K on my aurora.
  • I would check your rack and pinion, my 1997 aurora was like that since i bought it in November of 07 and my rack and pinion bushing/bracket snapped about a week ago when i was pulling into a parking spot. The play on the steering wheel is horrible now because nothing is holding the rack and pinion to the frame. So I am thinking that there was a fracture in the bracket before. If you are not too car saavy i would have someone you know how is look underneath at the it and see if there is any damage done to your rack and pinoin or the brackets. good luck. p.s. to get it fixed by a shop will run you about 600-1200 dollars is what ive found
  • Can you clarify? What exactly moves up and down? Just the wheel flexing at the tilt joint or the whole assembly noticeable at dash junction?
    Is there any side play?
    Going back to a complaint of mine, wife bought without consulting me. I got in and noticed lots of play, gave wheel a hard shake and upper assembly fell into my lap. At the tilt joint, aluminum castings with a steel pin about 5/8" on each side of column for the joint. At some time one of the pins was replaced with a quarter inch drive socket which was still loose and the shake broke the casting. Whole column was replaced.
    Definitely time for removing covers and doing an inspection.
  • I decided to revisit your comment about knowing noisy lifters because that may be a relative to a specific engine thing. Having known someone with a '65 Mustang 289 High Performance, that thing is noisy at idle always, but then it uses solid lifters. Hydraulic lifters should be much quieter and I don't know about overhead cams. I'd presume them to be even quieter and they may remain near quiet at insufficient oil flow, just not enough to prevent wear.
    Your noise level indicating good oil may best be answered by someone who has knowledge of this engine.
  • boston08, not sure if yur asking me the question but the wheel moves mainly up/down but also with some side movement. If I grab the steering wheel it feels like something in the shaft is loose, not the entire column where it would mount underneath. I hope I am making this clear to understand. Thanks

  • If the movement is up/down without any side movement and is pivoting at the tilt joint and not the whole steering column, then it's possible that the tilt locking mechanism is loose. I had a Buick that started getting up/down movement in the tilt function. It got worse til it came completely loose one day and flopped down and would not lock into any position. I ended up having to do some disassembly and put the screws back in the locking assembly for the tilt. I don't know if the Aurora mechanism is the same. My guess would be that it's probably different. Good Luck.
  • im replying to your post again because i just fixed my rack and pinon and got it done two days ago. After fixing that I found out my tilt had come loose, so i took off the cover to replace it. I fixed that but still had play in my from left to right. The play I had in my steering wheel was due to the two cases that connect where your tilt is. (sorry i am not clear as to what the specific name of it is). Anyways I had to remove the piece to see if i could get it welded, long story short, it was a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] and i wasted a couple hours figuring out how to fix this(because i am not that mechanically inclined). Heres how it goes to check if that piece is broken or if the tilt is messed up. There are six screws in the steering wheel case that must be romoved to open it and the only way to get to them is from under the case. Three in the bottom half and three that screw up into the top half. One of those last three you must get to by sneeking up through the hole where your tilt lever is. If our cars are the same (which they should be, as all 95-99's are) then you will have to use a 1/4" 5mm socket and a 1/4 extension would be the best. the case is then only held together by clips, just squeeze and pull and the case should seperate. (you have to remove the tilt knob cover which is held in by one screw i think) Once that is removed you will see the guts, now if the TILT is out of position you will be able to tell by looking underneath, if you can see the two sets of teeth sticking out and not in the case, then thats your problem right there, which hopefully thats all that it is. But if they appear to be positioned right then check the right and left sides to the two aluminum half cases meet each other. they should be held together by a pin (actually two seperate pins). but on mine, the part where the two meet from the rear half case was broken and that had to be welded. and fixed. I could walk you through the process of how to remove that piece which is not that hard but due to the lack of time that i have right now, i cannot explain. Please leave a post if you need further instructions or feel free to call me at 269 290 3735 and leave me a message, as i usually dont pick up numbers that i dont know,. I would gladly help you all that i can. All of the repairs ive done this past week wouldve cost me close to $1500 if not more and in all i spent maybe 200. Hope to save you money and hope this helps
  • I had to replace the dash cluster to fix the gauges eventually you will loose all visual of the gauges on the dash panel my 95 aurora dash panel turned completely off and it was after dark I couldn't see the speedometer, or any other gauges when the cluster went out. Hope this helps you.
  • lift up the back seat and disconnect the battery for around a minute that should reset the system.
  • dcoseydcosey Posts: 1
  • check your computer & other connections. I took my 95 in because I was getting some check engine warnings, and they ran diagnostic. After their test the gages did not work. It turned out just to be connections that had to be plugged in harder.
    Not sure it that will solve your problem, but it did mine.
    My local dealer checked it and did not charge.
  • Question: How difficult did you and your dad find it to replace the spakr plugs? Steps you used? Any key steps with which one has to be particularly careful? When removing the plug wire, was it easy to remove or did the wire rip? Is this a job that an old back yard mechanic can do?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    PCV valve located in right valve cover at front of engine. Connected to throttle body via a plastic tube near 1/2" diameter.
    EGR is electric and located near throttle body.
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    Well, the hard part was trying to figure out where on this site to post a question about body rust. So I decided body rust on my 1998 Black/Black Autobahn is simply maintenance.

    I started my annual detailing and noticed the beginning of a paint bubble on the right (passenger) rear quarter panel at the front edge of the wheel well. The beginnings of rust through. The body side molding on the right rear door almost points to it! It is about 1 inch long and 1 inch wide. I live in road salt central, so I am not surprised. But the car is so clean that it has my anal retentive, obsessive compulsive mind cranking.

    Has anyone started to see body rust on your 95-99? In this spot? And short of going nuts and hitting the body shop, what did you do about it?

    I did a search on the forum under "rust" but found nothing about rust on body panels. And the hood is aluminum, so no issues there.

    At 103,000 miles, the car still garners admiring looks and questions. About 18,000 of the miles were put on in the last 9 months, a commuting issue which thankfully has run its course. And no maintenance issues in that time frame! Miracle.

    Thank you in advance for any advice.
  • Not sure if you'll see this, as it's a couple years later, but when I replaced my '98 Aurora's factory deck with an aftermarket one, I noticed that it seemed that the HVAC steering wheel controls and the radio controls were all wired through the same harness. Essentially, replacing the radio costs you all the steering wheel controls. I tested this theory by plugging back in the radio and the controls worked for the AC and radio. Had to try that because I've been having the same HVAC BCM (blower control module) issues: namely, sporadic, unpredictable and unreliable AC...and now the heater. I know the fan it self could work, because at times, while driving along, the AC would pop on and blow nice, cold air for a minute, two, ten, sometimes until I was forced to turn it down (which I hated to do) before it would just shut right off again. I've pulled the BCM and am trying to determine just how to see if it is the problem. There are no visible issues, although, someone HAD put a pin (like a "T" shaped sewing needle w/o the eye) into the hot (RED) lead wire. Perhaps, that was done to try to put a volt meter on the BCM to locate the problem, or maybe it was a creative solution to making sure the hot wire had contact inside the harness housing. Either way, it was strange to see/find. Any idea how to see if this thing works or not? Thanks.
  • Hi. I was unable to locate any posts that directly answered 2 of my three questions--I'll keep looking for answers to number 3.

    Question 1: Any idea how to test a BCM (Blower Control Module) to see if that is the reason for my intermittent blower? I've seen multiple posts suggesting that that is the cause, but I'd rather not have to guess.

    2. I can't seem to get gas to do into my car at anything other than a trickle. If I don't hold the gas "throttle" at the pump just as slow as I can, then after a few seconds you can hear the gas backing up the tank neck and before you can stop pumping (or the auto-stop kicks in) you have a "spurt" of gasoline backing up and out of the car. I DID end up trying to cross a median that seems to have been a little higher than my clearance. The same day I bottomed out (scrapped/banged the bottom of the undercarriage) I found my self needing gas and when I tried to put it in, my '98 Aurora decided to spit it back out on my hand! I've never had a car that didn't LIKE gas! Unless it was that cheap junk.

    3. I'll keep looking for answers/resolutions to #3. I've seen some posts about fuel gauges not being consistent below about a quarter tank, and mine sure isn't. Resetting the Tripometer works pretty well, but short of a filling up (a VERY slow process) regularly, I just can't be sure how low my gauge really is. I carry a gallon of gas in the truck to be "safe."

    Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  • I also forgot to mention that I can't seem to reset the Transmission Fluid "percentage" as listed on the computer readout (is that being called the DCM? What's that stand for again?). The oil resets w/o problems, and I've been trying to keep it done regularly, but I've been unable to ever reset the Tranny fluid reading (it says 100%). I could also use some advice as to the suggested maintenance of the transmission. When should I be changing it, or should I? I've heard for and against. I'm in a '98 w/120,000 on it. It's a California car, but I moved to Chicagoland to wed and it handles great in the sucky winter weather here, but between the crazy fuel gauge, the iffy heater/AC blower, the slight coolant leak (after changing Radiator hoses, which failed), and the gas going into the tank at, literally, the slowest possible speed, well, I'm practically willing to trade it for a little Honda. But, boy, heated seats....ahhhhh.... :)
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    Hi your third question.

    3. I'll keep looking for answers/resolutions to #3. I've seen some posts about fuel gauges not being consistent below about a quarter tank, and mine sure isn't. Resetting the Tripometer works pretty well, but short of a filling up (a VERY slow process) regularly, I just can't be sure how low my gauge really is. I carry a gallon of gas in the truck to be "safe."

    There are a lot of posts out there on this one, but finding them is another story. The short answer: common problem, the fuel gauge on the dash goes nuts; and the most common cause is that the sending unit ( part of the fuel pump assembly) has gone bad.

    I've seen some post that you can purchase the sending unit separately. Others have just replaced the fuel pump with the sending unit. Parts prices quoted by others were varied, but expect $280-$400.

    The good news is that Olds provided a trap door so to speak to access the fuel pump without having to drop the tank. It's in the trunk under the mats, forward toward the passenger compartment. Also, there was some sort of tool folks purchased to facilitate the DIY approach.

    Personally, just too much expense for my blood when you have the Driver's Info Center DIC gallons used gauge (FUEL) which I have found to be accurate and reliable.

    My sending unit started acting up at about the 8 year 80,000 mile mark. The gauge would work fine until about a 1/3 tank of fuel remaining, or about 11-12 gallons used. Then the fuel gauge would bounce all over the place from full to empty, the range (distance to empty in miles) would go nuts, and the low fuel warning indicator on the DIC would warn me.

    Since I have sometimes ridden the edge, I have had the DIC gallons used (FUEL) read as high as 17-18 and have been able to put that much fuel back in. The tank is rated at 18 gallons I think. Others have warned that running the fuel that low is a bad idea because the fuel pump requires a couple of gallons in the tank to keep it cool.

    I have also manually calculated mpg by dividing the trip odometer miles by the DIC gallons used. Matches the average mpg on the DIC.

    BTW, on the original ignition (wires, plugs, coils, etc.), I get over 27 mpg pure highway miles per gallon. Replicated in August on a long trip with the wife and half of her earthly possessions (or so it seemed, but the trunk was filled). Cruise at 65 mph. It's fairly amazing for a 3,900+ pound car that's 11 years old! That's almost a 490 range on a tank of gas!

  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    dmgadget wrote......

    I also forgot to mention that I can't seem to reset the Transmission Fluid "percentage" as listed on the computer readout (is that being called the DCM? What's that stand for again?). The oil resets w/o problems, and I've been trying to keep it done regularly, but I've been unable to ever reset the Tranny fluid reading (it says 100%). I could also use some advice as to the suggested maintenance of the transmission. When should I be changing it, or should I? I've heard for and against. I'm in a '98 w/120,000 on it.

    I called it the the DIC (Driver Info Center), from the owners' manual. DCM may be correct for something else.

    While you can't reset your trans fluid life remaining (always shows 100% fluid life remaining and never changes), take comfort that no one else can either, at least as far as what I've read on this Forum. Me neither. Better yet, when I first had the trans fluid changed at the dealer, I told them the trans life never dropped below 100%. Their response was that the "recommended" interval for trans flushes, screen, and new fluid is "never" under normal operating conditions. Sure enough, the scheduled maintenance in the 1998 owners' manual calls trans fluid to your attention at the 50 and 100K mile marks.

    The 1998 (my) owners' manual suggests only change the trans fluid if you drive "mainly" under one or more of the following conditions:

    * Heavy city traffic w. outside temps regularly 90 degrees or higher.
    * Hilly or mountainous areas.
    * Frequent trailer towing.
    * Uses such as taxi, police, delivery (livery?) service.

    Personally, I don't buy into "never" when it comes to trans fluids and screens. That's just me. Yes, have read horror stories from folks posting that things went south right after changes. Coincidence? Knucklehead mechanic fails to get the oil pan sealed? Your choice. I've changed mine around every 3 years/30,000 miles regardless, and the trans still runs as smoothly at 103,000 miles as the day the car was delivered, very smooth.

    If I bought used, that's one of the first things I'd change no matter what, along with the motor oil and a radiator flush/coolant replacement. I've read here of trans replacements @ $4800! The $120 full trans service is cheap enough, gives me piece of mind, though I always check the fluid level and the pan for leaks or seapage, before and after the change. Trust no one.

    dmgadget wrote.....

    It's a California car, but I moved to Chicagoland to wed and it handles great in the sucky winter weather here, but between the crazy fuel gauge, the iffy heater/AC blower, the slight coolant leak (after changing Radiator hoses, which failed), and the gas going into the tank at, literally, the slowest possible speed,

    I'm running the Yokohama Avid V4S at about $98 per tire, great price performance all season tire. The car is a tank in the snow, don't need an awd vehicle. Wife drives in the winter, every winter, leaving me to fend for myself in the "new" car.

    Re the slight coolant leak, you may want to read up in this Forum on this because the sources of the leak are too numerous to discuss. I've had just one, never could find errant coolant on the engine or on the ground.

    After eliminating a head or head gasket leak as a possible cause (no coolant on engine, ground, or in the motor oil, long story re burning coolant smells, white residue on inside of the oil filler cap, rising oil levels because coolant leaking into motor oil), I drove the car for 2 years, adding the 50%/50% blend of Dex-Cool coolant and water (another controversy re coolants) about every 6 months. I could very intermittantly smell coolant, usually after highway driving, an all season problem.

    Finally got some visible steam working for me when I almost got stuck 40 miles from home. Got home. Under pressure at operating temperature of ~ 200 degrees, lights out in the mechanic's garage, and with a flashlight, my mechanic found two issues: original radiator was cracked by the top (passenger side) hose neck; and the original water pump was seeping ever so slightly. Swapped the radiator and water pump out, replaced original hoses, replaced the original thermostat, problem fixed. At the 10 year 82,000 mile marker or so.

    Another poster found a crack in the surge (overflow) tank and another a faulty surge tank cap. Another found a leaking water line from the radiator to the trans or back to the radiator, can't remember which.

    dmgadget wrote.......

    ........well, I'm practically willing to trade it for a little Honda. But, boy, heated seats....ahhhhh

    Realistically, the day is coming when reliability and cost of repair will make my decision for me. But my 1998 Aurora Autobahn with the toys (except Bose and disc changer, another headache) is far and away the best looking, functional, and dependable American car I've owned, partially because I have a good local mechanic who seems to correctly diagnose and treat the patient, not a replacement parts mechanic.

    This includes electrical issues so far, but I have a local electrical/engine management guru in the wings (used him before, recommended by the Ford dealership!) who gets the stuff the dealers can't find.....usually after they replaced a bunch of stuff and still couldn't figure it out and either they or the owner went knocking on his door.

    My son-in-law owes me big time for referring him to Guru after he had electrical AND check engine light issues with a used Mercedes SUV. Benz dealer quoted him $2,000, for parts only! Properly diagnosed (electrical = one faulty power seat wire connector; check engine light due to fuel pressure, both left and right cylinder banks, being intermittantly 1 psi out of spec!). Guru said forget it. $82.64 please.

    Re the heated seats......up here in the Northeast it is a wonderful feeling knowing that I get heat quickly on my rear and back when it's 5 degrees out and the engine is stone cold. My new(er) G35 seat heat doesn't come on nearly as quickly as the heated seats in the Aurora. The 8 way power driver's and passenger's seats for my aching back, with both the upper and lower power lumbar adjustment! My Infinity doesn't have that!

    Good luck and keep us posted on what you or your mechanic helps us all, even if it is just to point the mechanic in the right direction.

  • Jack,
    Thank you! Not only for getting back so fast (wowsers!), but also for the well written reply(s).
    I've found a local shop that seems competent and honest, if not the guru I could hope for. They seem to take the middle ground, replace the common problem parts, charge the usual prices, hope that solves the problems. I had an intermittent Check Engine Light that seems to have been related to emissions. Replaced fuel cap, 2 O2 sensors and tried to avoid overfilling the screwy gas tank, and eventually, it cleared and has stayed off long enough to pass the IL emissions test and so far so good. I got this car w/115K on it and am at about 130K now. I've kept the oil changed and topped off, using hi-mileage synthetic every change, but as my trans keeps performing smoothly, I am a little worried to risk it going south by changing fluids. Don't rock the boat and all. Obviously, 130K is a lot of miles on the same fluid (I have no idea if it had been done before). But, I've heard from more than one shop the only way to have it done (SHOULD have it done) is at the dealer's, so they can cover the work if it screws up the transmission. With the few little annoying bugs that I keep chasing down, I'm reluctant to "grease" a "wheel" that isn't "squeeking" if you follow me.

    I stopped by a local radiator/AC shop on the way to work this morning and showed him the BCM that I pulled successfully last night. I asked him about the possibility of testing it and he said something I couldn't follow about how it could only be done in the car, with grounding it, checking continuity and the rest. I know what he was talking about, but not how to do it, exactly. He seemed convinced that the problem was more likely the blower motor itself, than the BCM. Of course, niether part is particularly cheap and I know the blower CAN blow quite well...when it feels like it. If the blower (fan?) works, but the Motor is intermittent, any ideas how I can compare/check that against the possibility that the BC Module is the problem? Winter is right around the corner here in Chicago and I'm NOT looking forward to it.

    An aside: Regarding Winter driving: The first time I encountered snow w/my 'rora was on a trip across the Cali/Oregon border to see a monster truck rally. Seems that a storm rolled in and dumped a good dusting on the mts between where me and my 2 friends were in Oregon and home. I stopped at an auto parts store and purchased a pair of chains for the front tires. (We had a great time spinning doughnuts in the parking lot with the traction contol turned off and using the e-brake before we put the chains on. For a sedan, that boat can handle pretty well, if you are comfortable with the mass!) After rolling along quite smoothly for a number of miles, passing cars slipping into ditches and moving at about 15 mph, I found that the 'rora was smooth and managable at 45-55, depending on visibility. At one point, I was not sure why, when things cleared enough that my high-beams should have been piercing the road farther away, I stopped and got out and my best friend and I discoverd that the reason the hi-beams weren't working was NOT that they were reflecting off the snow in the air, but rather, during the more blustery conditions, the snow had actually buried the headlights! Only the heat from the low beams had managed to keep the snow melted in front of them! After clearing the hi-beams, which now worked quite well, we noticed that not just one, but BOTH of the chains off the front tires were gone!! Now, I had purchased the medium priced ones, and also added the bungee-tighener option that was designed to help hold them snug (like a spider-wed covering the hub, pulling the edges of the chains together). I'm also familiar with putting on chains and had never lost a pair before. I was mostly concerned about their loss because of the damage to the wheel-well that may have occurred upon their release, but there appeared to be none. I have no idea how long I had been driving without them; the car was smooth enough (and the snow/road rough enough) that I couldn't even tell when they were on the car...Crazy, huh? The rest of the ride home was uneventful.
    After arriving in Chicago last winter, I was able to compare my car (w/o chains) against a couple of other cars belonging to friends and family. Talk about stable. I felt like I was in a go-cart while driving the 3 other cars (all similar to a 4 door Corolla). Not so with the Aurora. I felt like I was back in the Army driving the Bradley Fighting Vehicle (M1A2)...but with much better visibility...and fewer bullets.

    Enough story telling...I've had questions about the transmission and proper maintenance of it since I got it, as I'd like to make sure it keeps running for as long as possible. I could never afford a comparable replacement car... Unfortunately, there seems to be some serious division in the camps as to the right way to keep it on the road. Coolant leaks? I can keep topping it off. Same with the slight oil leak. (Any thoughts on the whole, "flushing the oil" idea?) Crazy fuel gauge? Keep an eye on the DIC and use the tripometer. Fuel not going into the car at a resonable speed? It's a nuisance, but it DOES go in, albeit slower than honey. But, I have a functional and seemingly finely performing transmission that I don't want to have to fix if I can prevent a costly repair with maintenance, but don't want to create the need for a repair while attempting to maintain it! Good grief...what a delima. Open to more input.

    I'm really happy to have found this site and hope I can be of as much assistance as you all have been to me. I have to get back to being productive so I can pay for the upkeep on my 'rora. FYI--Gas has dropped more than a dollar a gallon here, from around $4.65 to $3.35 since H. Ike....Yeah. Oh yeah, that reminds me, thoughts on the ocatane requirements? When this car was produced, there was 87, 91 and 93 ocatne avavilable. The manual says use 91. Now, we have 87, 89 and 93. (If memory serves.) I've always tried to use 93, but when the price gets back up to $5/gallon....ouch. Any experiements tried? Thanks!

    ~Daniel (DMGadget) '98 Aurora, 130K
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    dmgadget wrote.......

    2. I can't seem to get gas to do into my car at anything other than a trickle. If I don't hold the gas "throttle" at the pump just as slow as I can, then after a few seconds you can hear the gas backing up the tank neck and before you can stop pumping (or the auto-stop kicks in) you have a "spurt" of gasoline backing up and out of the car. I DID end up trying to cross a median that seems to have been a little higher than my clearance. The same day I bottomed out (scrapped/banged the bottom of the undercarriage) I found my self needing gas and when I tried to put it in, my '98 Aurora decided to spit it back out on my hand! I've never had a car that didn't LIKE gas! Unless it was that cheap junk.

    I am probably stating the obvious here. A restriction of gas going in, no matter what. Well, the fuel/air back pressure is shutting down the pump because it is telling the pump the tank is full when it isn't. Plus the gas spurting out indicates a physical restriction somewhere.

    Even if you put a 1' x 1' x 1' dent in the gas tank when you drove over the median, the car should still take on fuel normally, albeit at a lesser amount. There has to be an actual restriction between the fuel filler hole and the filler neck on the top of the gas tank, including the neck of the gas tank. Now that I have stated the obvious.....

    First, wonder if you can see something crimped from underneath the car from the tank to the filler tubing? You can probably squeeze under the car with a flashlight in hand without jacking up the rear.

    My Infinity had a factory recall which if I remember correctly noted a possible crimping or an outright leak in the connecting plumbing (flexible tubing?) between the fuel filler opening and the gas tank. Recall repair (allegedly) completed no charge under recall.

    Your gas tank may have moved just enough to slightly crimp some flexible or not so flexible tubing that did not uncrimp, or actually bent the filler neck on the top of the fuel tank. Remember, it doesn't take much of a restriction with the fuel/air back pressure from the gas station pump to shut down the station pump or to cause the fuel backlash.

    Now for the highly technical part which requires professional tools, a pair of vise grips/locking pliers. You might want to try snaking a straightened-out metal coathanger down the fuel filler opening as far as you can to see if you can either uncrimp the restriction (flexible tubing) or at least determine the relative location of the restriction. You may later be able to get at the point of restriction from under the car in any event.

    I'd suggest you bend/loop the pointed end of the coathanger back around 180 degrees so at least a smooth rounded point of attack is offered, and make the loop relatively tight, flat, and very closed...... so it doesn't snag on something (inside of gas tank or on filler plumbing) when you are GENTLY withdrawing it. You can always increase the size of the loop if the "smaller is better" approach isn't working on the first pass.

    Measure the length of the coathanger from the edge of the filler hole to the end of the coathanger loop once the restriction is reached so later you can somewhat pinpoint the location of the restriction.

    Otherwise, you may have to spring for a mechanic on this one. Hopefully, the fix does not require dropping the gas tank.

    Good luck, and keep us posted on your adventure.


    PS: It ain't gonna get any warmer out in your Chicago driveway this year, so try this soon.
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    Well, our posts seem to be crossing. I type slow and think slower.

    A good and relatively trustworthy mechanic with reasonable prices. Seemingly a pipe dream, but they are out there. I may have been lucky in 1993 when I found mine, close to home too. I have made a point of remaining loyal to him, even if I pay more for his gas. At least he sees me a lot. And he always asks about my satisfaction with the previous repair. After I tell him everything is fine, I remind him he should name a repair bay after me with no smile on my face. I expect him to be loyal to me in return. I am not shy about pointing out to him that when my cars come off warranty (I'm a cradle to grave car owner) he gets first shot and every one thereafter until HE gives me reason to change. He offers me a bag or box with my old parts after each repair which I look over and leave there for disposal.

    He has been particularly good at calling and pointing out preventative stuff where the labor at some disassembly is already a sunk cost and "while it's apart you may want to consider..." I'll have to talk to you sometime about my idler pully assembly (it froze, bearing siezed) and I also opted for a new a/c compressor and I believe alternator to boot. Slap in bearings/shaft fit, and something to go next, stranded with dogs and/or fuming wife. Now that the engine was unbolted and lifted, and the lions share of the labor was already invested......

    Sometimes it doesn't seem to make much sense to put a grand or two or three in an 11 year old used vehicle with a blue book trade value or a private party sale value is $3-4K. And sometimes you can't buy reliability in an unknown used car at 3-4 times the price. I know what I have and what I have put in it. I know how it has been maintained. Then I look at some of the total ownership savings if I choose to keep the car. I significantly save annually on reduced local excise taxes, insurance costs, financing costs foregone, and the huge one: depreciation expense. On the latter, I can pay for a whole lot of repairs for the annual cost of the last one. And I get paid back every additional mile I drive THIS car after I forked over a bunch of money on a repair or tire replacement. When the reliability starts to fail me or the aggravation gets too great, fine. I'll bite the bullet then.

    Gas tank capacity on the 1998 is 18.5 gallons, not 18 as I previously stated. And I've put 18.5 in it more than once.

    Fuel mileage. Best case 18mpg city, 21-22 evenly mixed, and 28+ pure highway at 65 on cruise, 100+ miles. Never changed since I got the car, and I'm on the original ignition parts as stated earlier. With a happy right foot around town, 14. Drop the other numbers accordingly when I'm having those 120 mph blasts.

    Fuel. The Aurora manual is more liberal on octane with 91 as the starting point. I burn 93 because we don't have a lot of 91 around here. Downshifted to 87 for quite a few months when my daily commute was 90 miles and gas got ridiculous. No change in mileage, and if acceleration suffered, I couldn't tell. No pre-ignition experienced (pinging per the manual) under a heavy foot or up hills. Engine management retarded the spark to accommodate the lower octane I suppose. Relatively remarkable for its 10.3 compression ratio and nearly 4,000 pounds. So you can save on gas if you choose (see savings above). Hyundai Genesis.....this manufacturer actually rates horsepower and torque at premium grade fuel (recommended) and 87 regular.....about a reading of 5 lower for both for burning the lower octane which on a base of 375 horsepower isn't even worth discussing.

    Never used them because I could never see the advantage except for their unquestioned lubricating superiority in the colder temperatures, particularly at startup and while the engine is warming up. Synthetics grab and hold, plus their viscosity at even the coldest temps is unchanged. I personally change with conventional motor oil and a filter at an average of every 4K miles or 3-4 months, whichever comes first, 10-30 viscosity in the summer and 5-30 winter. While the synthetic may maintain its lubricating qualities twice or three times as long mileage-wise, can those properties mitigate the dirt in the oil and piling up in the oil filter? Consumers' Report a few years back (perhaps sponsorship biased) tested every motor oil brand, viscosity, and type (natural vs.synthetic), with and without afternmarket additives, in a fleet of rebuilt-motored NYC taxicabs for 100K miles, using scheduled change intervals. After a million words of text, the conclusion: no appreciable difference in wear. I've never had a motor oil/wear related engine failure in 40 years, even with my Corvette (11 years daily driver 24/7/365 in Chicago, ran all season tires year round, my only car at the time). Lots of high rpm use/abuse with that one.

    If it's a minor oil pan gasket or valve cover leak, tighten and observe. Replace gaskets if necessary. Otherwise, I just drive and add oil as required because it costs virtually nothing. The driveway takes a beating, though. I had a rear seal leak on a Camaro for about 5 years and didn't want to pay to have the engine yanked. Just added oil, no problems except the driveway (again).

    BCM...... This is the tough one, and I don't have any advice other have to have the blower operating, especially in winter for both the heat and especially the defrost. I have read a lot of stuff in this forum on blower motor and blower control module problems. Could never figure out why mechanics could not isolate the problem better with diagnostics, amperage, or voltage meters.

    Had a starter motor issue once. Thought it was the battery. Lost a $20 bet. Another time thought I had a battery isuue. Lost a $20 bet. In each instance with the same friend who on the former issue disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected the starter motor ground, same with the battery terminals on the latter issue. These were both on the Corvette.

    11 year old wiring alone on your car could be at issue, especially if the insulation rubbed through/off and you are getting inappropriate sporadic touching of a hot on something metal, unwanted. No suggestions here.

    Agreed, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Manual suggests never needs changing under normal driving conditions, even up to the 150,000 mile interval in the manual. Most of what you need to know is in the color and smell of the transmission fluid anyway, despite what I say.

  • I've got a 2G 3.5 Aurora that's got a coolant leak in the tube that runs front-to-back that has a hose connecting to the water pump on the front end and on the other end a hose to the heater - sort of a long connector.

    The tube is corroded and leaking and the dealership wants to charge me $633 to replace the damn thing - and is telling me I can't drive it the way it is. Hell, I drove it to the dealership, why can't I drive it home? Did they poke a hole in it?

    What is that tube called, and does anyone else find their repair quote just a tad pricey? I could probably replace it myself if I knew what part to ask for - it's not like it's connected to the diagnostic computer, or in an inaccessible position. Even if they included a coolant flush/fill, it seems excessive to me.

    Thanks in advance!
  • Take car to reputable radiator shop and get their quote to fix.
    should be cheaper.
  • Can you do any damage to the electrical system on a 2002 Auroa by charging the battery with a battery charger?
  • My 2002 Aurora rear window now falls down by itself. I can hear the motor running when I actvate the switch. Sounds like your problem. Did you ever get a repair? What was the problem and how much was the repair? How did you get the windows to stay up without a repair?
  • Hi Jack

    Just a note to reply to our conversation in the "Buying Experience" forum, which is now read only for whatever reason. I did get the throttle body cleaned, fuel filter changed and new K&N filter for my trip. The gas mileage definitely improved. I got 26.1mpg on the leg from Lexington, Ky to Columbia, SC. That compares to the 23.7 I got back in Feb. over the same route and roughly the same speed. The air temp was alot warmer in Aug. than Feb, but I don't believe it would make much difference, if any, especially as I was running the AC this time. Got 24.4 on the return, but that was with some stretches of sustained 75-80 mph. So overall I was pleased with the improvements. Next big trip will be Feb again to Daytona Beach for the 500.

    Take Care, Jack
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Your fuel fill issue is likely related to a problem in the vent system. At least one of the tank lines goes to the front as part of the evaporative emissions and is tied to charcoal canister. During running a valve changes to draw fuel vapor out of charcoal.
    Canister sometimes has a small filter to stop dirt being drawn in during that purge cycle. It may be totally plugged. The canister may have gone bad. The valve or the computer controlling it may have gone bad. Or you may have crushed the line or it is plugged, the one coming from the tank.
    Unlikely, but a friend with a new '69 Ford ran out of gas when the guage showed nearly new. He got it to gas station but it would only take a couple of gallons. They had put an unvented cap on vehicle that required vented. The gas pump sucked the tank collapsed.
Sign In or Register to comment.