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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair



  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    My wife's 2001 GTP had problems last March with defrosting the windows. I wondered if there was a thermostat problem, but it turned out to be a stuck "max air door" in the HVAC blower - once replaced, windows were no longer fogged up all of the time.

    My '98 has no problems defrosting in this sub-zero weather (-7 this morning on my way to work :-(
  • Coolant is fine Mike.

    Im thinking it must be a Max air door or something of that nature. Anyone know where it is on the Rora???
  • norbinorbi Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Aurora 4.0 and wanted to know if i could use a Mobil 1 synthetic oil 0W20 Performance Oil. When i used to have a Mustang i put that oil in and nottice a difference in pickup and wanted to use in my Aurora but i am not sure if it would be recommended for that engine.
    Thank you
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    OOPS. bought it at the wrong place probably. Check the brand. AutoZone carries a lot of Wells parts. I certainly gave'em a try and had high hopes as they are made in a small town where I grew up. Multiple tries of TPS's and some other parts showed me they are crap. Hoped I was just getting the bad ones of the batch. One I know was a GM TPS on a 307. First one was bad out of the box but didn't discover until I was doing the closed loop tweaking of that TBI carb. They cheerfully replaced but the second one died in 6 months. The "Wells" was like $25 and the GM was like $68. I got a GM and never had a problem. I tried their parts on other vehicles and had similar problems. Would suggest staying away from Wells, personally. Try Pep Boys for a Rochester, if there is one in your area and price is an issue.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I'm thinking maybe you meant 0w-30? I think that would be fine to use in cold weather. Otherwise, I'd stick with a 5w-30 as recommended. I certainly wouldn't try a 0w-20 if that's in fact what you really meant. Gaining slight power by using a thinner, less protecting oil doesn't seem like a very good idea to me...
  • Yeah, it was a Wells. The local dealerships had none in stock and so I went with Autozone. Ironically, my price at the dealer for a Delco part (or whatever brand of EGR the dealer sells) is only 5 or 6 bucks more expensive than retail at Autozone. The code stored on the computer is not an EGR-specific code. It is a high-idle I said earlier, more of a symptom than a cause and I still have some diagnostic work to do before I start throwing parts at it. My gut still says I need another new EGR. Oh well, you live and learn.
  • Well something finally went wrong with my 99 Aurora...well lots of things in the last week. I won't complain as this is the first time the car has been down (now with 127K):

    #1 is Traction/ABS lights...I assume a bad wheel bearing and/or sensor. Anyway to tell which one it is?

    #2 SES light now on. Seems to have happened with #1. Can this set the SES light? Torque converter doesn't appear to want to lock up. Any advice? Strange thing is the TC used to lock nearly immediately...even during light acceleration. Car's more fun now, though.

    #3 Ice caused my wipers to bind and caused the plastic mounts to snap on my wiper transmission. Got the whole transmission assembly removed, not too bad only the weather here (ohio) could have been better. Of course, NOBODY stocks this item, so I ordered from GMpartsdirect...boy these guys are cheap. Crossing fingers here. No wipers means I can't drive the car, so I'm hoping it won't take forever.
  • Good afternoon,

    My serpentine belt just snapped on my 96 Aurora with 131K. I already got a spare belt on my shelf, and I after searching this board it looks like all you need is a breaker bar to replace it. Would someone be able to give some steps on how to replace the belt? I am not very knowledgeable on these cars, but I have been successful at replacing the FPR, plugs/wires headlight etc.

    I also got a water pump belt and can change that too if anyone has an idea of how you get to it and replace it, I got no clue.

    Thanks in advance!
  • #1- 99% of the time it is the a wheel bearing . Actually its the sensor inside the bearing and most scans cant tell you which one it is. You will probably be replacing both. These are one of the few parts for this car where I dont insist on using Delco parts. You can find aftermarkets for around $125 each and get a mechanic or yourself to put them on. You will save around $300 that way.

    #2--Get it scanned somewhere. If the light is on then a code has definatley been registered. Ill bet you its a O2 sensor.
  • Thanks! Anyone know if the auto chains do free scanning? Hate to pay $$$ and waste time @ the dealer.

  • Autozones do free scans.
  • Maytag,

    Check messages 1480, 1481, 1492, and 1500 in this discussion. It's fairly easy to replace.

    I'm interested to know about the big belt, too.
  • blk97aurora,

    Thanks for the message numbers! After reviewing them, it sounds like the serpentine belt wont be too tough. I wonder if while I have it off, it will become intuitive on how to replace the water pump belt. I did not see any tips on how to replace that one, if anyone has a tip to offer on how to do it, I am all ears!

  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    belt is easiest to replace if after removing the guard around it you remove the tensioner itself. The tension on the tensioner is relaxed by using a 1/4 inch drive in the square opening on the arm
    to slip the belt on and off the pulley. While you've got the belt off, spin the pulley and makesureit spins freely and doesn't sound dry. You can force grease into the pulley if it sounds dry to lubricate. If the pulley binds, NAPA carrys replacement pulleys.
  • mrdubyamrdubya Posts: 200
    i noticed this yesterday, same thing today. under WOT it seems like it surges a few times. only does this under wot, seems like above around 4750rpm or so. could it be that its so cold maybe?? guess thats just wishful thinking (like -8 here) btw, its ALWAYS warmed up before i get on it, which isn't too often anymore. ive noticed a few times there's a little surging at like 40-50mph with very very slight acceleration.

    the FPR is about a year old.
  • mike98c,

    Thanks for the tips on the water pump belt. I took off the engine cover to start working on the serpentine belt. That must not be the cover people were talking about. There appears to be a metal plate over the belts by the passenger inner fender held on by 4 or 5 bolts. I assume this is the cover that must come off. I am also trying to locate the tensioner. Is it on top, or on the bottom?

  • Good afternoon,

    I've been playing with that belt guard metal plate, not much fun there. I got 6 bolts off so far one of which is very long and it hits the inner fender well before I can remove it completely. It seems there are two more bolts down low, one near the firewall, and the other near the front of the car. Looks like they are my only hope of getting the plate out. I took a pictures of what I was talking about:
    My belt mess

    I also notice there is something mounted under the positive battery cable wire that is bolted to the plate, maybe this is a motor mount? Do I want to undo that as well? Am I even in the right place?

  • Sorry to say Maytag, but those bolts will not thread out all the way unless you do one of two things:
    1. Take the engine out of the car
    2. Cut the bolts

    Seriously. You can read a thread of mine from a few months back about replacing the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley and all the trouble I had to go through with that. I'm not joking though, the bolts are literally too long to come out while the engine is in place. And to answer your other question, yes that is one of the motor mounts underneath the positive battery cable. You can take that apart too, but unless you get the bracket out, you can't get the motor mount out and like I said...the bracket will not come out unless the engine is out or you cut the bolts. I wouldn't take the engine mount apart though, unless you have some auxillary support for the engine.
    My old post #1306 (link should work):
     stickking1 Nov 12, 2003 10:34am!keywords=allin:msgtext%20limit:.ef0429a%20tensioner

    But to tell you the truth, you don't have to do any of that to get the belt on the car. Last time I changed my belt, it was done in about 40 minutes in my driveway. No bolts out, no tools needed that I remember. It was frustrating but it just takes a little work to get it in there. It's easier if you have a picture of the engine and the "belt-path" in front of you. It's not easy to see in there, but the picture helps you visualize where it's all supposed to go. I can't really explain how to do just feed the end of the belt in between two pulleys and once it's there, you'll have some space between the pulleys and the bracket to work. I would suggest feeding enough in that you can get it around the crank pulley (at the bottom) and then working your way up (You'll have to get under the car to start this).

    Another tip: You might have to pop a section of the wheel well plastic out from behind the right-front tire to get a better look at everything. It's been a few months since I did the job and I can't remember if I had to do that or not. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

  • Here's a pic from that thread that might help get the idea


    Forgive the red circle..that was part of the old post. The hardest part is getting the belt inside that tensioner assembly (the silver bracket in the red circle). The solution is simple, really. There should be a little space between the tensioner and the engine just have to sneak the belt between there. Tricky, considering that you have to do it all while your view is obstructed by the car itself...but it can be done. Good luck!
  • Stickking1,

    Thanks for the message and the diagram. There are a couple of thoughts going through my mind:
    1) You said you did not need tools - didnt you at least have to loosen the tensioner? Were you really able to somehow wriggle the belt on the tensioner via the "little space between the tensioner and the engine block" you mentioned?
    2) I cannot even imagine how you could work the belt around the pulleys with that metal guard on. If the guard stays on during the installation, I cannot seem to imagine how there is enough room to get at the tensioner to loosen it.

    The picture of the motor is definitely helpful. Guess I will take the car in the garage, while still able to run on the battery charge, jack up the front passenger wheel, try to pry back the inner fender trim and give it a go. If you could get back to me about the tensioner, it would be great!

    Thanks for the assistance!
    Maytag, in the freezing cold of Massachusetts
  • #1. Yeah, you're right..I forgot to mention that, you'll still need to release the tension on the pulley. But no, the torque-axis mount does not need to come off and none of those bolts have to be removed. Hopefully, taking that plastic trim out of the wheel well will help you I said, I don't remember for sure if I had to do that last time (it was a few months ago that I did the job).

    #2. You can see on the tensioner assembly in the picture, the slot for a "breaker-bar". To get the belt up onto the tensioner, you can sneak it in between the pulley and the block and then seat it...but at some point you'll have to release the tension with your breaker-bar so you can seat the belt correctly on all of the pulleys. I hope I'm not just confusing you more here :)

    The bottom line is that the axis-mount (the huge metal bracket) was not designed to come out for this job. After having to deal with it in that old post, I'm not sure that they designed it to ever come out, unless the engine came with it!

    The belt does not need to work "around" all of the pulleys, it has to work in between them. You know from trying that there is no way to go around the entire bracket with the have to feed the belt inside and work from there.

    Now I know I'm getting confusing. Wish I could help further.
  • Good evening,

    Well just got in from the garage. stickking1 was right, really was not to tough if you got the picture. After getting the bolts back in on the guard. I had a look at the tensioner, once I figured out where it is. Then I found the square looking up at me, and played with an eight inch 3/8 extension to loosen it. The breaker bar had a bendy end, so it would not do anything for me. Taking the plastic lower wheel/underneath trim also provided very good access to the pulleys. Once I had the belt routing down, thanks to the picture, I had the belt completely on, except the AC compressor pulley, which had a small edge not on all the way. A few quick cranks and it was on right. Started it up, and its doing great! From 11.5 to 14.5 volts - cool!

    I did not have time to do the water pump belt... Hope I dont regret it... I got to get up early tomorrow, as I got to get my wife to the hospital to deliver our 3rd baby - the boy! My wife really didnt want to go in any other car but the Aurora. At least now, its ready for the ride.

    Thanks all for the help! Special thanks to stickking1! Again, this group has helped me save $$$ on Aurora repairs!

  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    The waterpump belt I was referring too (I hope I didn't cause you to think I was referring to the main belt earlier) is a piece of cake compared to the main belt. Everything is much more obvious. I should have mentioned sneaking past the tensioner with the main belt also. It was probably only because I had a good belt diagram from the alldata site I have a subscription for, that I didn't have to do some trial and error disassembly.
  • mrdubyamrdubya Posts: 200
    the surging continues. it seems like it surges at ALL speeds whenever i get on it, anyone know?? have this problem? i wouldn't even know where to begin to look.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    "I got to get up early tomorrow, as I got to get my wife to the hospital to deliver our 3rd baby - the boy! My wife really didnt want to go in any other car but the Aurora. At least now, its ready for the ride."

    Hm, seems like the little guy is already an Aurorian. I guess we all know what his 1st car will be. . .
          ------> CONGRATULATIONS <--------
  • For the heck of it try an idle relearn and TPS reset. Let me know if you want me to post the procedure.

    Other than that if nothing shows on a scan my first guess is the infamous FPR. Theres probably something mechanically wrong with it that is screwing up the fuel pressure.

    I had a problem with my Rora needing excessive cranking to start. I didnt think it was the FPR because I examined it and it looked fine. But after a few mechanics couldnt find the cause I changed the FPR just for the heck of it. Solved the problem. Only reason I post this story is because even though the FPR may look like its working fine with no gas sitting in the tube it may still have an internal problem.
  • Good to hear everything went well, and congrats on the newcomer! Mike98 is right, the water pump belt is a cinch compared to the big one. It's a 5 or 10 minute job really...Piece of cake.

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    The surging sounds like fuel to me, but of course it could be other things. When you said it was high-rpm, high throttle-opening only, I was thinking fuel filter, or possibly the fuel pump isn't putting it out like it used to.

    Now that it is all the time, it could be that the filter rapidly got worse, but that seems sort of unlikely. Maybe the pump is going, or the FPR (which seems common). It could be electrical or something as well, but it just sounds like fuel...
  • what do u mean by "excessive"? Mine takes forever to start some times. Also my rev-down is quite rough. any ideas?
  • I could SWEAR that's sunlight I see shining on your engine. I am incredibly jealous...almost forgot what it looked like.
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