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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair



  • kayaman420kayaman420 Posts: 207
    If youve already had your fuel rail replaced because of a leak will you be able to be reimbursed by GM. I just had to do my 95 a few months ago.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    ...supposedly yes. But call the 800 numbers posted above, and see what they say to do. Or call 800-442-OLDS (if that still works :-(

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I decided to take that sticker off of my back driver's side window. Does anyone know how to get that tape residue off of the window? It has now turned black because of the accumulated dirt.

    I really dont want to use a razor that close to the door. One false slip and . . . . .

    The same is true for harsh solvents.

  • webbwebb Posts: 2
    I have a 99 aruora and have had this strange problem with the cruise control. It will work for about 100 miles then drop out and will not re-engage. Or if I turn it off and go over 80 (which is easy to do while passing)it will not re-engage. Also the speed ometer is jumpie at 80 it jerks 2-3 mph while maintaining a constant speed. Some times but not always when the cruise drops out the check engine light comes on but resets after the three start reset. I have taken it to the dealer twice and they could not find anything wrong with the cruise control I suspect either a m.a.p. sensor or some type of speed sensor. also it surges while going down hill in cruise sometimes bad enough to cause it to drop out. Any help would be appreciated
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    Anyone know where to order the front strut mounts online? other then as their site is acting up again. Or rockauto's no name brand..

    Also anywhere for reveal moldings?
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Posts: 82
    I just took my '97 in to have the fuel rail converted last Tuesday, 6/22. It took them approx. 30-45 minutes. They said it would be several months before they recall the '95 model.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    The passenger front power window won't roll up, in my 1999 Aurora, has anybody had an issue with this on their Aurora?

    I'm taking it to the dealer Monday so they can take a look at it, for now my window has to stay open or down.

    Man, this is whack.

  • mrdubyamrdubya Posts: 200
    i get the same problem sometimes, where i cant control the front passenger window from my side, but it still works on the passenger side controls , have you tried using the passenger side switch? im sure you probably have

    im not sure why, but it comes and goes, probably a loose wire
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    I had the same problem. I took the door panel off and used a test light to figure out which wire was ground and which was live. I think (it was last year when I was much younger, lol) I ended up GROUNDING the motor to roll up the window because there was always power to the motor but the switch grounds the motor. I think I posted a more complete (accurate?) description at the time. Apparently it's usually that window on the Auroras, Park Avenues and Sevilles and it's usually the main switching terminal block in the front door or the harness, not the motor.

    I'd post moe on prob, but keyboard is acting up again. Time to go to house and swap good keyboard back that my cous. borrowed to finish paper last week.
  • stickking1stickking1 Posts: 247
    Hey Javi, just a note: Do yourself a favor and make sure to check the wires running into each door. I've had a bit of trouble with windows and speakers in my Aurora and all so far have been from brittle wires breaking from age. It'd be worth a shot to check them out before the dealer tries to hose you on any costly repairs. Good luck!

  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366

    You know I did not really get a chance to check out the front passenger window completely, the window stoppped working on Saturday 6.26.2004, so I gave the Aurora a rest since I had to work on Sunday, so today Monday morning at 7:00am took it to the dealer, I know they will take care of that since it's covered under my GM Warranty, which covers "Electrical". I went in and they were like "okay we'll take a look".

    I just don't know how long they will take. You all know dealers, some can take care if the problem the same day, some will take up to 3 days or something.

    So I will let all you know the outcome.

  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    To expand and emphasize, no matter which window anyone has problems with (no power or power in only one direction) the first place to start is the wiring harness going through the front drivers door to the body.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    I got my Aurora back from the dealer yesterday ar around noon, window motor burned out, covered under warranty.

    Man, I love that warranty.

  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    Just out of curiosity was the motor running slow or buzzing before it went out?
  • About two weeks ago I started getting a rattling sound under the car as the engine revs up. Almost sounds like loose sheet metal. I narrowed it down to a sound possibly coming from the tranny, or torque convertor. Jacked the car up and fired it up and had someone raise the RPMS, etc...

    Trany has about 150,000 miles on it. Fluid has not been changed. (Which I am going to do in the next day or so with filter to see if the problem is just bad tranny fluid and to see if something fell out of the tranny)

    For the most part this car still runs strong, has a total of 184,000 miles on it. No problems shifting, engine runs good, etc...

    Any thoughts on this trany rattle sound? before I run it to the dealer.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Hey Mike,

    The motor was not running slow or buzzing at all, the window just stayed down and would not close/roll up. Usually people get some kind of warning that their window is failing, mine didn't.

  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    Are you sure it's not the heat shield rattling? There's a tecnical service bulletin on the problem if thats what it is.
  • The outside temperature reading is going crazy....keeps reading 194 F. I've changed the sensor, and it even reads a few degrees higher...must be some way to reset this thing....any ideas.....It's a 95 classic, and reads the high temp whether engine is cold or hot...
  • Mike,

    Changed out the trany fluid and filters today. Had some minor residue on the pan magnet but no major metal shavings etc... for the amount of mileage on the tranny and the fluid, it still looked pretty good. Im sure the viscosity was shot.

    I checked the exhaust heat shield and could not really find anything loose with it.

    When the tranny is cold there is no sound coming out, however give it a couple of minutes of run time and the rattling sound starts up.

    Even in park I get the sound when slowly rev the engine. I wondering if it could be the torque convertor or tranny bands etc...

    Any suggestions or thoughts.
  • I just got the recall notice in the mail on my 96' and it has a form with it that you fill out for reimbursement if you paid for it already.
  • There was an old post a couple of years ago about disconnecting the battery for 30 min to an hour and this would reset all the computers. Might be worth a try. I know Ive done this with some other issues and it seemed to reset everthing.
  • Finger nail polish remover. Just take your wifes. If thats not available get a product called Goof Off, that will take it right off.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    I am getting a lot of knocking when making turns. I think it is the bushings judging from past posts. Can this be done at home?

    Thanks in advance.
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Posts: 98
    Does anyone know where the cycling switch for the a/c is on a 2001 3.5? And, how hard is this to replace? My a/c keeps cycling on and off. I had the freon checked and it is full. Thanks for any help.
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    Gisom, my opinion is that the "knocking" from turning is the strut mount bearings. Someone (sorry, I forget who) mentioned that the bearing locks when you turn then, when you go straight it snaps back or "pops" as you hear. If your struts and mounts are original, I would definitely replace them first.

    FYI the bearings are located in the strut mounts and really aren't replaceable by themselves. Just buy a complete mount.
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    Where can I get both PCV elbows? Rock only has a really stupid universal fit one, and that wouldn't work on the elbow into the manifold.

    My second question is what is the thing on top of TB that runs to cruise and somewhere down into the engine? It's a type of special elbow looking thing and is cracked and leaking air like my PCV elbows are doing (that's why this post sounds kind of urgent).
  • pizza442pizza442 Posts: 110
    Got some info on another board that someone got a gal at the Olds 800# that was now able to get authorization and call the dealer and talk to the service mgr. and get the car fixed with the new stainless rail--for the 95--and was paid for by GM. So it seems that the 95 rail is ready and the actual recall of the 95s should be soon (my 95 was already in the dealer and diagnosed with a bad rail). The part #s are: 12499781 rail kit, and 12499840 seal kit. Other codes of note on invoice: "recall 04014" and V1149.
  • billhbillh Posts: 1
    The car had a fire under the drivers seat. damage to the the seat, steering wheel, headliner and smoke to the rest of the interior.
    Car starts fine-the display with the security light and abs lights works, but thats all. I replaced the instrument panel and heater control panel but they still don't work. I have not removed the seat yet, could there be wires under the seat for the dash?
  • buckdogbuckdog Posts: 19
    I've noticed for sometime I had one burnt out fog light. But now the little switch that lights up when the fog ligths are on dosn't light up any more. And both fog lights are out. also I got no dash lights, radio still lights up but my center lights for the spedo tach fuel ect. don't light up. I checked the fuses and they seem ok. I'm thinking that with both fog lights out that might be the problem. Any other thoughts?????????
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