Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

waldochevy

Hi my 1996 aurora tail lights,dash lights or fog lights don't work! I've been searching this forum and can't come up with the real problem.when i try to turn on the tail lights manually under the dash the black box just clicks.everything else seems to work just fine. please help!!!!!!!!!

phil95

Hi Everyone,
Merry Christmas,
I have a 1996 manual in a genuine fake leather wallet that I would like to trade for a 95 window sticker can anyone help. Oh, and I finally cracked the left hand corner of my dash. Mine was only 95 I never saw broke. Now it's complete. Any repair kit suggestions?
Phil

carida

I bought my first aurora 1 month ago. It is 2001 3.5 with 75,000 kilometers . I thought it was fine until i had a chance to ride my friend's one. It was like riding a cloud - so soft. The one i have seems to have no suspension at all. Every small thing on the road goes inside the car. I got the air pump checked but it worked.
PLEASE if enyone has any suggestions on how i can make it softer - share. carida2001@gmail.com

jerrid

have all the sus checked out if nothings rong then have it replaced or have custome air ride installed other than that dont know what you can do

mike666

I tried to take the front valve cover off but i couldn't get the pulley off the cam shaft. I didnt want to break it, so can anyone please tell me how it come off? Thanks

carida

What is custom air ride?

rosebudka

I am having the same problem with my 95 aurora and replaced the switch assbly and still not working. Did you find the problem??? Any help my email is rosebudka@hotmail.com Thanks in advance. Karen

jerrid

http://www.airbagit-store.com/ now thair are cheaper kits this it just for an idea

jerrid

how do you take the pully off the front camshaft of my 1995 aurora my buddy broke it when he was changing my whater pump dont ask how becouse he left after he broke it so im stuck in a bad place and a brick wall i nead the car to go to work and its to far and cold to walk hopeing some one knows this thanks

brinwood

Just started blinking today. Anyone have a clue as to how I can fix it? Can set temp and all but it keeps blinking. Never did it before.
thanks

blk97aurora

It would help if you would state your vehicle's year.

My '97 experienced a similar but not exact same problem. Turned out the wire to the thermistor under the front bumber was broken.

Les

timsolds1

I found the problem with no AC/heater. The BCM needs replacing! I purchased a replacement p/n 52470337 but have later discovered the p/n should be 52470336. Can any one tell me if the ---337 would work in my 98 Aurora? What damage could occur if I installed the ---337 instead of ---336?

Thaks in advanace,

tim

pshade

I was driving along (automatic) shifting from 2nd to third gear and it just died. I have full power and the battery is fine. The starter works when directly accessed but the car dies out after it turns over and runs a second. All fuses have been professionally checked and I do not know what it is. I am guessing it is something to do with the computer but I have not been able to get it to the dealer yet to test it. I disconnected the battery in hopes it would reset itself with no luck. Security key is fine, I had the dealer check that as I have heard of security problems also. Any suggestions?

brinwood

Sorry, I've a 97 silver Aurora...........

jazwashington

This past February, right after turning 18, I bought my very first car, 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora Lt. Blue Dk. Blue Leather Interior and get this 52,000 miles...I know can u believe it. I searched out this car and was estatic to finally have it and *doon doon doon* everything started to go downhill.

I had both upper and lower radiator hoses replaced, thermostat replaced, all 3 or 4 oxygen sensors replaced, heater/heated coil hoses replaced and after all that my car is still running at an average of 225-250 degrees. I can not get rid of this pesky anti-freeze leak and if my car starts smoking again I think I may give it a reason to be smoking ;-(

Can anyone offer any advice to what may be wrong with it...after replacing all those things?? Other thing is I absolutely love my car driving down the street I can spot it 3 miles away from the front, back, and sides I can't fathom me selling it but as a broke college student with a not so rich mom I don't know if I can afford it. Should I sell it now before the time comes that I may experience the more drastic and expensive stuff that has been posted???

Signed "Don't Wanna Let My Baby Go" aka Jazmine :sick:

jazwashington

I also have the problem with the service light coming on every "45 seconds" but it's really like every week.

Signed "Dont Wanna Let My Baby Go" aka Jazmine :sick:

tdenice

We have been plagued with this problem since we purchased our 2001 Aurora two years ago. The car was beautiful sitting on the lot but it has been one thing after another since we got it. We've replaced the compressor, fuel pump and another part that was causing the car to sputter. None of these repairs have fixed the dying out problem. We're convinced that this is a manufacturing problem that went undetected. This car is no longer being made and they wonder why American car companies have lost their marketshare.

Henry

I know how you feel. I feel your pain. But, all relationships must sooner or later come to an end. I think its time to sell.

I have only 116k on my 1995, and I am thinking of letting it go. I really don't want to sell it because once its gone, there will be no other Auroras in my future. A unique creation that will soon only exist in the history books.

Welcome to the Hotel Aurora, you can check out any time you like, but you can never leave. . . .

brassadonis

My Service Engine light would stay on for 3 to 7 days at a time. I replaced my Pressure Sending Unit which I found out was leaking. My Service Engine light has only came on once since the replacement. THe light came on when I was low on gas and put Sunco gas in. When I filled back up with Exxon/Mobil gas it immediately went off.

Just thought I share my Experience with the Warning light

codered1

I have a 1995 Olds Aurora as well and I have the same security problem. My key started not working all the time (the security light would come on) and the car wouldnt start right away all the time. I recently had a new key made that worked right away but now I am having the same problems with the security light coming on and my car wont start. Do you know if there is any way I can bypass the security system myself or am I going to have to take it to a GM Dealer and see if they can do it if they will.

Please Help Me
Thank You

imidazol97

http://www.12vp.com/info_resistors.htm">one VATS info link

I don't know which VATS system you have...

http://vats.likeabigdog.com">A better VATS info link

I don't know if the Aurora system is like the Buick system but the security comes on when the right key is put in and then should go out if it reads the correct resistance. If it doesn't read the right resistance it flashes and won't let the car try to read another key for 3 minutes. This delays someone from using varying resistances in duplicate keys or a box because each wrong try requires 3-4 minutes.

I really helps to have a factory service manual for your specific car (Helminc.com) because it shows location. The G-shopmanuals are 1/2 price until Dec 30. Aurora manual

I like the bigdog link for my car using the connection on the right side of the dash instead of working with two fine wires at a connector at the base of the steering column (working upside down).

fernie

I have a 1995 olds aurora factory manual for sale its a 2 book set any one interested e-mail me back

rosebudka

What is your email address?

sj1400

Picked up a 99 yesterday with 117k on the clock. Needed a roomy daily driver with front wheel drive to get through the snow. Car is in good shape and appears to be well maintained. I noticed the controls on the steering wheel do not operate the temp or fan speed. The radio controls are irrelevant since there's a aftermarket radio. Not sure if this is normal but computer also indicated 15 volts while driving. Is this normal ? Seems kind of high to me. I'm concerned the battery may be weak and I don't want to burn out the alternator.

graf8

I have a loud rattle in the passenger side of the dash in my 2001 Aurora. Often times it can be heard over the radio. Has anyone else encountered this?

brinwood

My 97 aurora always show 15 or above when running. Wouldn't worry.

pegasusthunder

Here's what happened. Bypassing the security didn't help after all. It started doing it again. When I took it to a GM dealer in another state and town (I moved), they replaced the security bypass and looked again for the problem. They thought they found it, but it did it again. I was just so fed up.
This last time they checked it, it turns out it was the ignition switch. So they replaced it. And I guess some wires under the steering column where checked too. When I would move the steering column up or down, it would do something to the wires.
Well, now it's been about 4 months, and so far no problem. It's been running great and no problem starting. So have the GM dealer check the ignition switch, and insist on it. The guys at first didn't think it was that when we told them it may be that. Then they finally checked it, and it was that.
Or I have heard some have had problems starting their Auroras and it turns out it was their starter. So have the ignition switch, under the steering column, or the started checked. It just might be one of those.
I wish you luck. That problem has been a real headache for me with this car, but I still love my Aurora. Specially now that things are going great with it. Don't give up. I'm hoping for you!!

flyboy981

Wifes 01 did same. Traced to cup holder. Stowe holder and dash rattle disappears.

zennedjim

Hello,

I celebrated my 6th year of owning my 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0 (v8 engine) yesterday with a little scare on the highway while driving to the airport.

I was about 4 miles into my journey, and my radio volume started varying big time as did the needle on my speedometer - dropping from the 65 MPH to around 10 MPH then bouncing around ... the car was definitely slowing down while this was going on.

I tried moving through the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st gears, but it had no noticeable change. The electrical seemed fine and I could hear my engine revving, responding to me putting the gas pedal down. The car was still pulling forward, but at a much slower pace - almost like it was idling and letting the downward slopes carry it a bit (hard to tell speed - it was 4am in rainy/windy conditions in San Francisco).

2 miles of nervous driving with my emergencies on and listening to the engine rev big time, but a steady slow paced movement, the gears seem to kick back in and off I go down the highway to airport at 65 MPH again. How weird, right?

I returned from my morning meeting in Arizona, and braced myself for a non-working car experience - but the car worked just fine. I drove my 11 miles back home, parked the car. Later in the evening, I took it on a 5 mile grocery store run, and it was also uneventful.

Has anybody experienced something similar with their 2001+ Aurora? If so (or even if not), any ideas what may have been going on? I'm reluctant to take it to GM dealer cuz he always seems to charge me $800 and up.

Thanks! zennedjim@msn.com

donnapaca

What is the condition of the manuals?
How much are you asking.
Don

fernie

this are 2 complete books with all you need to fix your 1995 aurora i buy this books in e-bay end hey are in the same conditions as I bought it. Is good to have them because they're great very helpfull. I bought it for $92usd I want $50usd and you paid for shipping charges what do you think?

coreyg1

I own a 98 olds aurora. The car has been really good to me for the most part. Lately when I start the car it's a bit tricky. When I turn the iginition it will crank and crank but wont start up right away. Usually it fires the third attempt. Has anyone had this problem? Any advice would be great thanks in advance.

C

guest

Have you had it scanned? If you have an "advanced auto" store nearby, they will do it for nothing. Worth a try.

blk97aurora

This problem is often caused by a leaking fuel-pressure regulator. Don't delay, it is a fire hazard.

Les

sj1400

As a newbie I'm curious on how I can verify the Power mode is actually engaged. In other words is the button actually working. I haven't noticed a difference btw the 2 modes. I assumed Power would allow the engine to shift at a higher rpm.

brinwood

It sure do. Push when a little extra whoomph is wanted. You should feel the response. I don't know if there is an indicator light on the dash. Seems like the button is down for power, push again to release that mode.

cam42

This is usually the Fuel Pressure Regulator. It is an easy fix if you are mechanically inclined, or you can take it to any ASE mechanic at a garage that does tune up work and they can do it.

cam42

Your problem is the Lighting Control Module (LCM)which is located under the dash on the drivers side next to the emergency brake . There are two modules mounted there on a plastic bracket. The LCM is on the right. The other Module on the left is the MALL module. On a 96 Aurora the part number is LCM 25638307. It may be that the connectors to this module are loose or corroded and cleaning them may solve the problem. Otherwise you can find the module under Used Car Parts on the web for about $60.00. It is a little tricky to get to this module and release it from the bracket, but it is possible. I have done it. It can also cause your lights to stay on all the time or flash on and off even though there is no one in or near the car.

cam42

I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Throttle Position Sensor to get rid of a similar problem.

tamisled

I have a 2001 Olds Aurora with 97,000 miles. I just got the car in November of 2006. Several weeks ago after alot of rain ( I do not have a garage), when leaving the house, I heard a loud sloshing sound in the dashboard, obviously water. A couple of days later I noticed that the carpet on the driver's side was extremely wet and also the carpet in the backseat behind the driver's seat, but everything else was dry. No signs at all of water around the sunroof or anywhere on the roof or seats. Does anyone have an answer for me hopefully that my husband could repair? The dealership said that they'd have to take out the seats, dry the carpet and padding and then find and fix the problem. At least a $350 job. Since I've noticed the sloshing sound around the dashboard, it sounds like it's coming from there. I was told by someone at an auto body place that there is no padding under the carpet in vehicles. Is that true? If we can fix the problem, can I just put some box fans on the carpet to dry it up? Or does this have to be professionally done? :confuse:

sj1400

Selling dealer repaired worn out accessory belt, repaired crossover tube coolant leak, and cleaned the throttle body.
Concerned there work may have unplugged a sensor.

Picking the car up I keep getting the LOW OIL MSSG at startup. Put in a qt of oil and it's at the full mark. I really dislike the color of the dipstick - makes it difficult to read the stick properly.

Anyone run into the low oil level mssg although the motor was at the proper level ? If yes what was the fix ?

Henry

I just got a 2003 with a wet floor mat on the passenger side. It turned out to be the rain deflector on the pasenger side door. The repair from the dealer is estimated to be $121.00. They are now ordering the part, I will let you know how it turns out.

Henri

jelardo

I purchased a used 2001 Aurora last Feb. from Gene Norris GMC in February of last year. It had about 60,000 miles on it. Was very happy with the car for a bit. I had a remote start installed by a reputable company-it installs them for dealerships-shortly after. I had purchased the Valu Guard extended warranty when I purchased the car, so the first time it wouldn't start, I called Norris and took it in. The check engine light came on, dash was lit, but no cranking noise at all. Of course, first they blamed the remote start. They checked out the car, said it was fine- no codes. I took it home, and disconnected the remote-just in case. I know numerous people that have remote starts (including me on my last car) that have NEVER had any problems with it interfering with the ignition. Anyway, from then on.... I have had the car towed 5 times (last was last Friday at work). I have taken it in numerous other times. First it's the wiring, then the ignition. Norris replaced the front section of the ignition, then at another visit, the rear part. Then it was a short. Then a bent wire. Next they re-keyed the keys. Then it was something else...and so on and so on. I towed it in 2 weeks ago, and spoke with the dealership general manager. He said he had 4 mechanics working on it. I'd have to pay for the tow & service since it wasn't a warrantied part. It was the relay box (shich controls more than the ignition issues-so you couldn't just replace the bad part, you need to replace the entire box)- over $350.00. (They did give me a break on the cost, since I had paid the deductible so many times). After speaking with another mechanic (a family friend) I was told the relay could have been bad due to all the times they worked on the engine. It could have been accidentally nudged and disengaged. I questioned Norris, and the mechanic told me it could have happened while they were working on it. And, of course, I paid the deductible many times. I called the warranty advisors who told me the car was running when I took it home and since different things were fixed each time, I needed to pay the deductible each time the car went to Norris. --- I was told Norris fixed the problem each time. My question: If it was "fixed" each time, why do I still go out to start it with no results-identical things happen (don't happen) each time the car won't start? A few months ago, after they informed me that the car was fixed and wouldn't be a no-start again, I had the remote re-installed. Since then it's not started 3 times. It was disconnected for about 7 months, during which time the car didn't start numerous times.
Norris called me yesterday to say that THIS time it was the starter...

Anybody else have problems with this? The service advisor told me this is why the prior owner might have gotten rid of the car. That's fine, however, I reminded him for all the money I've paid them the last year, I would think the problem would/should have been fixed.

HELP!!! thanks

tdenice

I can certainly sympathize with you. We purchased a 2001 Aurora in 2004. We only had the car for about three months when we started to experience problems. First, the car would cut off while driving. We were told it was the crank switch. Next, the compressor went out we had to replace that. After that the fuel pump had to be replaced. Its been one thing after another. Purchasing this car was the biggest mistake. They are beautiful cars on the outside but underneath the hood is another matter.

jelardo

Thanks. What is annoying to me is that I did a lot of research prior to buying this car. Most of the reviews I read gave very favorable reviews. Well, I guess when you buy a used car you are taking a chance.- Actually when you buy ANY car you're taking a chance.

cheeba118

My 1995 oldsmobile Aurora makes a chime noise when the headlights are on. It is coming from under the seat and when i move the seat it sometimes stops temporarily. If I remove the fuse in the CHIME spot it stops but I do not have any dash lights. Also, the back of my seat did not move and now the seat does not move at all. Is it the switch maybe? Please help me.

cheeba118

I have heard that metal shavings in the headlight switch over time will cause this.

akwebb81

Your situation sounds very similar to mine. I had nothing but problems with my car when I first got it. My car, would randomly not start, dash lights come on, radio works, etc... but the engine would do nothing, silent. It did this off and on for about a month (very random so I didn't take it in right away) until I couldn't take it any more. I let my mechanic have it so he could try to duplicate the problem, they used it that day to do errands in and let it sit idling for a while, then shut it off, and tried to start it again and poof, it didn't start. Turns out it was a bad starter. The starter would heat up and not want to work again until it cooled down, which is why if I let the car sit over night it would start again in the morning. Needless to say, it has been over 4 mos since they replaced the starter and I haven't had a single problem with the car since. I know with this vehicle it could be ALOT of different things, however, the top two reasons for this problem are 1: Starter & 2: Ignition switch. This car is one that has many little gremlins in it and can be very problematic at times, but hopefully your car will work them out, and thank goodness you bought the warranty. Also, a great resource for this car and info is http://aurorah.proboards47.com/
Good luck and I hope this helps!

elizthoms

We had our fuel line replaced before the recall was announced for the 1995 Aurora. We contacted Oldsmobile after we received the recall notification. They honored our charge and reimbursed us for the repair. The problem is that 2 years later, we replaced the same fuel line!!! It was obvious to us that when we had the work done the first time (before the recall) the parts provided by the dealer were faulty (otherwise they wouldn't have recalled them in the first place!). So, we called Oldsmobile AGAIN about the fuel line. They stated that since they have already reimbursed us for the recall issue on this car, that they cannot reimburse us for any subsequent repairs.
Any advice is helpful to get Oldsmobile to honor their parts and faulty products!!
Regards :mad:

laureng

I just pulled into the gas station this morning and pushed the button for my fuel door, it was dead. I don't see in the manual where the replacement fuse goes for this, but it does indicate not to use anything manual to pry open your fuel door (too late, my icescraper was used this morning). The manual says there's a spot in the top back of the trunk where there is some sort of tab you pull to open the fuel door manually. I couldn't find it anywhere. :confuse: Can anyone out there give me the specifics of what this looks like and where in the trunk it is? I have a '97. Also, anyone know the fuse# and replacement location for this? Thanks