Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

Mr_Shiftright

Well a head gasket or head issue doesn't necessarily have to enter the combustion chamber, nor does coolant have to show up in the oil. If a head were cracked, you would see combustion gases in the radiator coolant. Was this tested?

Regardless of any other issues, the coolant fans should go on by themselves. By passing this system with a switch suggests to me that the mechanic doesn't know how to fix the coolant fan problem.

If the jury-rigged switch cures the overheat, then he has to go back and fix the original system.

tootertater

I watch him put a suction cup where my radiator cap goes. A glass was top of the suction cup with blue liquid in it. Car was running at idle and at 200 temp. He let this stuff sit for ruffly 25 - 30 min. He said this blue liquid would change color if gaskets or heads were blown. I watched the whole time it did not change. About coolant fans all I know is that my car shuts down as in dead before fans engage.I am a single mother and I don't have another way to go. My father swears by this mechanic.I have used another mechanic in past but last stop with this car to him ran $2200.oo.and it was for coolant system and manifold that this resent guy says is used. any ideas for me?is there another test?

tootertater

He is at a lose. he has called gm support and different other mechanics on this one and no one can give him an idea of how to cool it differently. any ideas?

Mr_Shiftright

Well the cooling fans have to work or the engine will definitely overheat. As to why it shuts off dead, that's probably another issue.

tootertater

He 's straight wiring to keep engine cool and to see if by doing this if going dead stops. if engine is cool then he can look for other routes to go. If you can understand what i am trying to say. He is got to get the engine cool first then look for shutting down problem.somewhere on post mentioned tranction pcontrol problems. says it kicks in and temp gauge rises and then engine cylinders shut down .

Mr_Shiftright

Well yes there's logic to that approach---get the car cool first.

The traction control theory sounds a bit wiggy to me. My advice to people, and to myself for that matter, is always take the simplest answer first, and deal with that.

So if the engine shuts off, someone has to first get control of the overheating, and then be ready with a fuel pressure gauge and a spark tester as soon as the engine cuts out.

oldirishchick

I would like to know the passenger rear turn signal is not flashing the driver side works fine tried changing the bulb out but still have the problem

e_net_rider

Are you saying the car does not overheat unless you are driving it?
Although you can put a short piece of jumper wire in the relay & power distribution panel to force the fans on high full time, this is a bad idea except for test purposes. Forcing the fans to run full time fast will likely stress them and maybe kill the motors. More expense to fix the original problem.
Have a check to make sure you have the added diodes to the fan circuits. If they were not originally installed, depends on year, there was an added jumper harness near the fans to add them. Without them, there is known TSB relating to ABS system because the spikes can kill any electronic component and TSB specifically to the ABS system.
With the traction control problem, it could be causing the system to initiate, even mildly causing the brakes to drag and thus working the engine harder it will overheat.
The temps you mention are within the normal scope of the system so even with the fans forced to run on high full time you will find yourself stranded on a hot summer day.
Fix all problems related to codes for check engine light. (It might even be the computer.)
It sounds like you are dealing with a shade tree mechanic or two. Was the big repair bill related to this issue? I'd definitely be talking to that guy, maybe about getting some money back.
Your problem may not be an easy one and thus might need someone who has really good equipment that can read the computers. Although a few might have some really good expensive equipment, only the dealer has equipment that can go the full yardage. That is reprogram the computer if necessary. If a non-dealer shop finds you have a bad computer, buys one for the vehicle, they will have to take it to the dealer to get it programmed!
Any GM dealer can do that, but as to who is most knowledgeable relating to this machines powertrain computer system, it is likely Cadillac. This vehicle shared a lot of the same, the Aurora 4.0L engine is a Cadillac. It is the down-stroked twin of the 4.6L

e_net_rider

Looking at your post a second time, it appears you are just wildly guessing and wasting money.
The low oil pressure sounds significant.
These vehicles run with a very low oil pressure when warmed up.
And to make sure we are on the same page, maybe you can create in your signature which vehicle specifically. The year and the engine if you don't have the common 4.0L, so that we don't have to keep digging back to find what you have. A simple one line of text with that info, created and then copy, paste into each post. Thanks.
Assuming 4.0 since it is most common, get an accurate oil pressure guage, tee it into the port of the sending unit and monitor. See if it actually drops to the signal point of shutting down. If not, then you have wiring or computer problem.
If it does drop, check to see if you have oil cooler & or the adjustable valve for diverting flow to the cooler. I think that valve can be worked with externally, that is other than adjust. And someone may have altered the adjustment.
Other than that, I suspect you have serious problems that likely require tear down.
Failing oil pump, engine wear that won't allow sustaining even the low required pressure, an internal leak such as a failed headgasket that is allowing oil to be dumped back to the crankcase before reaching the head, etc.
Make sure you have the proper viscosity oil, 10W30, at all times. Someone may have put in the wrong stuff such as 5W30 or 0W30 and that might be your only problem. You might even have a defective oil filter where the bypass valve is stuck open.
If you are at the teardown point, it is time to make some serious decisions. How is the vehicle over all?
Consider a new engine and possibly tranny. One thing I can tell you, I regret moving out of my 96. A damned hard vehicle to find something comparable to. New ones can be gotten with most of the same features plus a few extras such as navigation and bluetooth, but to replace the ride and handling seems to be a priceless affair. If mine had been very good other than tranny and engine, I would have kept. I'm now considering looking for a clean one, classic style, and putting in engine or tranny or both if necessary. Fuel is pricey, but cheap compared to fuel and payment of anything that will come close to this vehicle.

tootertater

I'm picking my car up from this mechanic today. He says he is at a loss on this one that it is a waste of my time and his. It did go dead on him at his shop while running in park. I have found a mechanic who is going to do a diagnostic check on it.(no cost) He told me he will look the car over and check all fluid and do pressure checks etc... He has advertised 40 years exp... and did work in 42 factory schools. Around where I live we only have Mom and pop shops. I know I am just guessing but I don;t think its a head or gasket. No water leaks or overflows. everything sounds fine, no weird sounds. it pased the head and gasket test.You mentioned what oil I use I used 10w30 oil penziol. The guy says when I get it to him he will check everything to do with my problem. when he finds something and calls me to replace or fix it I will be charged for the repair work and parts only. Oh and found a "96 like mine owner say if i need parts just call because his transmission is gone on his.

e_net_rider

Where are you located, just curious?
That should be OK oil. But there is a small possibility that it was packaged wrong if it turns out to be an oil pressure issue. I had a 79 Pontiac Bonneville that although high mileage was in very good condition. I decided to start using Mobil 1 in it and only change every 12K which worked out to once a year for my wife. I forget the exact weight of oil it was supposed to get, 10W30 I think. But the locals only had a different weight in stock, maybe 10W40. I used that for a couple of years and then one store got the proper weight and I got a case, 6 quarts. I did my change but noticed there really was a big difference as it poured from the bottle. By time I reached 6K I had to add the sixth bottle. I had picked up a couple more by the time I was at 12K and then bought another case. Wait a minute, this stuff looks much more like the previous weight I was using. I called Mobil wondering what was going on since the only conclusion I could come up with was that I got regular oil in a Mobil 1 bottle. And after pressing the guy, he admitted that they were bottled on the same line. The car continued to use oil after that.
Note: Penzoil used to have the reputation for cleanest engines. Typically their oils had always had a reddish hue until a few years ago. The last I used it, it seemed to have a bluish hue, like the additive package they also make. And Quaker state for the dirtiest. Older experienced mechanics could tell you in a second if you were using either of these. Other oils were in between. The Quaker bragged about no leaks and with good reason. There would be so much crud buildup it would be near impossible to leak. Tore one open myself and it looked like the dinosaur lived and died in it.
What I said toward troubleshooting, earlier message, still goes.

hockeydoof

Looking for the last 2 of 4 motor mounts that need replacing and the dealer wants $230 each. (yikes).

I've searched parts wherehouses, local boneyards, after markets (autozone/checker/napa), and no other options.

Before I give the dealer my son's dental money, does anyone have any other thoughts?

Thanks Everyone! Have a super Monday!

Russ

Mr_Shiftright

You might try www.car-part.com

akfisher

Recently had a loss of overdrive in my 2001 olds Aurora 3.5. No clunking, grinding or anything. Then had a scan done and it was code P1825, which is the internal mode switch - illegal malfunction. Any one else have this issue, if so, any ideas on where to start as far a fixing??? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright

The IMS is a sensor that tells the computer systems which gear you are in--but I have no idea what's involved in replacing it.

LOOKS LIKE THIS

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/D84410H.html

So must be part of the detent plate that locks you into each gear, as you can see.

kenharw

I am looking for an ACCELERATOR CONTROLS CABLE BRACKET for my 1999 Olds Aurora. This bracket attaches at the left rear of the engine and holds the throttle cable and cruise control cables in place.

Mr_Shiftright

That sounds like a wrecker's part. Check with www.car-part.com

latinawhispers

I have been searching this site for any answer to help me. My 96 Oldsmobile Aurora has just lost all power to the DIC. The lights work on the panel just the guages dont move. My Information center does not work, and the automatic locks nor the alarm. I have checked all fuses. I was told it could be the EMC, but I was told it could be the Mall? I would be so happy for any answers.

e_net_rider

checked all fuses? under the seat too? I think the Mall has nothing to do with guages, could be wrong. EMC?
It seems most of the guages were fed directly from computer but with all those items not working it seems likely you have power not being fed to where it needs to go.

mevers9

2001 3.5 with minor oil leaks around valve cover gaskets. How tough is the repair? Doable for a shade-tree mechanic? Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright

Book says 2.7 hours for a professional mechanic, so figure we amateurs take twice as long. You have to remove various PCV tubes, oil level tube, spark plug boots, ignition coils and some electrical connectors, in addition to the fuel injector shielding. In addition to the perimeter seal, there are spark plug seals in the camshaft covers. I think you just buy a whole gasket kit for around $50 bucks.

You might want to subscribe to ALLDATA DIY (www.alldatadiy.com) for around $29 bucks and this will show you step by step for this, and many other procedures for your car.

shadowfx1

I also have this same issue with my 96 olds aurora...thankyou for the tip...I will have it changed out and see if this will fix the problem....

rahrah99

hello all....my girlfriend just got back with the 99 rahrah..the idle was so high she could hardly stop the car...i went out started it up and it idles fine..she says it was in a hurry to get to it's master......maybe????? has anyone else had problems with this..

laurieg1

Does anyone know of a site that has a repair manual for a 95 olds aurora power steering job? Im having a heck of a time finding out how to fix this thing!!

Mr_Shiftright

You could take out a one year subscription to www.alldatadiy.com.

jhowdy

I followed directions in the post on here about cleaning the cruise control lever awhile ago. It seemed to work well. But, recently when stopped for a red light etc. the car just stops running. It starts right up again usually but today when it happened I turned the key and there was no sound. I turned it several more times and it started. I reached my destination and backed into a parking place shut the engine off, pulled the key out opened the door and there was a bong bong bong bong bong bong. I started the car, it stopped. I turned off the radio, a/c, the cruise control and the dash lights dimmer and twilights all the way down, shut the engine off again, opened the door and no more bong bong bong. I feel it has something to do with either that cruise lever or the dash dimmer/twilight or maybe both. I use the cruise daily but the dash lights have been turned down because I don't drive much at night. I had to drive at night this weekend and I turned up the dash lights so I could see. This car has shut off while idling for several years but only occasionally, it's been happening quite frequently recently. The battery is almost new and it sits on about 14.1 when the car is running. Just to add a little more, the information center lights and radio lights dim now and then while driving along, so that I almost can't see them :shades:

coreyg1

I have a Multifunction Switch / Lever assembly. It is for sale if you are interested....

fergie9

after sitting for a while front and rear lights blink on and off till I remove fuses. do the Olds have relays are sensors that cause this? :sick: :sick:

bob1008

bob1008

I read all the other posts on this problem, and I still can't resolve this issue. Interior lights fuse blows every few hours. Checked visors, doors, rear courtesy lights. No sign of a pinched or chaffed wire.
My question is this....... Could a failing relay cause the fuse to keep blowing? And could I just swap relays with another one to test it? or are they all different? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

trader1404

I had a buick that stalled while idling. I cleaned the throttle body and it works just fine now. It's a cheap fix if this is your problem.

nena5

I am having the same problem with my car, it stalls whenever I am at a red light or a stop sign, has anyone figured out what it is please let me know. I have had a rebuilt fuel pump,fuel filter, spark plugs put in.

e_net_rider

Check for air leaks, vacuum, along the PCV tubing at both ends. Any loose or deteriorated vacuum lines.
When was the last time O2 sensors were changed, you might get a code.
The FPR can leak internally which will put fuel present at the vacuum line. Check for parts that have been replaced with non-GM such as plugs. Also a weak or bad coil can show up this way.

hannahf

I just had the exact same thing happen to my 95 Aurora. When I put the car in reverse I get a big clunk noise and it jars the car a bit. My mechanic says that it's cracked and/or broken engine/tranny mounts.

How did you solve the problem? My mechanic found replacement parts at Cadillac to the tune of $1000. Does that seem right?

In addition, did you have any further problems with your car? If I put this much money into my car I'd want it to last a good while longer.

pscheid

$1,000 sounds to me way overblown for parts. Of course, this is a Cadillac dealership price. I had my mounts replaced by a private mechanic when the car was in to get the idler arm tensioner replaced ( bearing went bad). Mine, a 1998 Autobahn black/graphite).

I'd suggest you use a private, trusted, experienced mechanic to verify Cadillac's first opinion of the problem and the solution and get a quote from him. If you don't have a trusted, private, experienced mechanic.....get a recommendation from a friend or family member. BTW....I have an "electrical" guru apart from my nuts and bolts guy, and he handles the Aurora gremlins at half the cost. Both of my mechanics deliver the first time every time with NO BRING BACKs.

Not one dealer mechanic touched my Aurora after the extended warranty expired in 2005. Yup, aside from routine maintenace (brakes, etc.) there were a couple of expensive visits to the shop after that, but to me the car was worth it.

When I had my idler arm tensioner replaced, my mechanic had to use an engine hoist to get at it all.....I saw the car with the engine partially raised on an engine hoist and was horrified, anticipating the labor costs. The engine mounts were replaced at that time (precautionary). Since labor was already pretty much a sunk cost to raise the engine to get at the tensioner, I had him replace the A/C compressor, still working fine but for the price of the part, the mileage/age of the car, and my intention to keep it, it seemed like the cheaper thing to do to save money down the road.

The mounts, A/C compressor and the associated labor, including all of the engine raising labor.... these came to about $1,400 of the total bill.....and the compressor alone was a $680 part.

At that time (besides the idler pully tensioner replacement, I also had a new thermostat, water pump, and hoses done as well....as the water pump was starting to seep coolant. Radiator had been replaced a year earlier, a leak at the neck.

Most recent issue 11/09: fuel pump quit at 114,000 miles, and the neck on the gas tank was completely corroded away, couldn't bolt the new fuel pump back up. Had to drop the entire rear suspension and exhaust to get the old tank out and to put the new one in. Total charges were about $1,450 for that one.

Transmission, exhaust, and suspension on the car still original and untouched!!!

This is the most enjoyable vehicle I have owned in 43 years of driving, but it has been more problematic than any of the others I have owned. The aggravations have been worth it to me. Daily driver. No regrets. But that's me and my experience.

Only you can decide how and when you want to spend, and functionally what the Aurora is worth to you.

txshadow12

Make/Model: Olds/1998 Aurora with new oil pump installed

Question: What is the minimum, acceptable oil pressure reading when the 4.0L engine is warmed up to normal operating temperature and the RPM is at, or about, 800-1000 which I encounter when stopped at a red light?
When cold, oil pressure is 60+; digital oil pressure reading can dip to 8-10 when stopped & idling. Oil pressure rapidly rises upon acceleration.
Thanks for any words of wisdom you may have.
The Texas Shadow 12-04-2010

pscheid

Did you try a forum search.......everything at your fingertips. "Oil pressure at idle." There is tons of info.

I think it is not uncommon to see the oil pressure drop under 10 psi at idle of 700-800rpm with the engine fully warmed up for a while and the oil hot. I think one guy noted the manual said it should not drop below 5 psi at idle.

Never checked mine at idle but it tops 60psi when cold and runs at about 34 psi at 2,000rpm when the engine has run at operating temperature (195-200 degrees) for about 5 minutes.

In-car gauges can be inaccurrate to begin with. And the Aurora oil sending unit can go bad, but it is cheap to fix.

Mr_Shiftright

*minimal* acceptable for your engine is 35 psi while at speed, 5 psi while at hot idle.

pscheid

I edited my post with more info. Hope that helps. The cold psi at 2000 rpm (60psi) and the fully warmed operating psi at 2000 rpm (35psi) never changed over 12 years and 114,000 miles. 1998 Autobahn.

djnuanttose

i have a new battery&alternator...but both is good...the thing is that my bettery voltage is still going low...why is that?

pscheid

dj......Can you give us your definition of low,...... and under what circumstances? How do you know your battery is good and your alternator is working? Did you have them checked by a mechanic, or rechecked by the mechanic who did the work? You aren't giving us anything to go on. Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright

Those readings are fine.

jeff200

i have a 97 aurora and none of the dash lights are working or the heater/ac any ideas anyone someone told me the computor brain could that be i or does all that run off the fuses

newman9

There was a recall for the fuel rail a while back hope u didn't pay to fix it cause it should of been done for free

newman9

Unfortunately there is no chilton's book u have to buy the book the repair book off ebay if u want one, the power steering is pretty easy its right on top of the passanger side, there is a line going to the rack and pinion and a line pumping it back to the resivoir not too hard of a job except no much room to connect the lines to the rack but it can be done ive replaced before

newman9

THe dash lights is more than likely just a fuse, the ac/heater check the fuse but also could be the blower

newman9

Usually relay fuses and relays don't go bad, could be but more than likely a short in a wire or an overload for that size fuse

newman9

Reset the computer see if that does anything. If u don't know how to reset the computer just disconnect the negative wire on the battery start the car drive a little then plug back in this resets ur computer. Sounds like an electical prob

newman9

yea ive had this problem idled at like 3k my cruise control module the little bolt that goes out or in to hold the idle was stuck had to take it off and clean er up maybe ur case also

packerjohn

The ABS and traction control lights on my mother in law's 1999 Aurora stay on after the engine starts. She also recently had a situation where the car would not start, getting the "clean key, wait 3 minutes" message. We cleaned the key and the car started. I've seen bits and pieces of posts on these boards indicating a dirty key/ignition switch could be causing the issue with the lights. Is this true and are there any other possibilities for the lights being on other than an acutual system problem? Thanks much.