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Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance



  • Hey mikeentexas if you are still out there did you find out how to adjust 2002 Tacoma headlights? :confuse:
  • Checked error codes, when check engine light came on, ( error P1135
    Fuel air metering ). Has anyone had this problem with ther 2001 Tacoma
    V6 ?.
  • Hello there,

    I have the same truck and have the exact same problems. Did you ever solve your problem?
  • I just bought an 03 Tacoma double cab 4x4,TRD. This is my third Toy. I had an 83 reg. cab shortbox, a little tank ! When the kids came along I got an 89 4runner and now the 03. I plan on driving this one for a long time and I'm looking for a service manual. Anyone know where I should start. The dealer can order one but it's expensive and I'll only go that root if I have to. Hoping someone has one! I also buy loto tickets but that hasn't panned out yet either!!
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    There's a guy on Ebay that sells OEM Toy manuals.
    Good deal (compared to dealership) and very quick shipment.
    I got manuals for my 2004 Taco (which I later sold after trading up for the 2005) and for the 2005 Taco. Both times, good transactions.
  • tdantdan Posts: 1
    I realized your post is ~ 2 yrs old, but I just purchased an '06 Tundra. I'd like to know if you picked up the extended warranty and if so was it from the dealer or third party? Any advice would be appreciated.
  • I just purchased an '06 Tundra DC. I did buy the extended warranty. $1,000 for 6 year, 100K miles. I bought it from Toyota who actually contracts with another source....BUT.....Toyota administrates the warranty coverage in the same manner as the typical original new car warranty. Anytime you need service within the warranty OR the extended warranty buy from Toyota then you simply schedule your vehicle for service and they take care of the rest for you. No need to contact your extended warranty company that way. Less hassel.

    My logic on the extended warranty was this:

    I pay out $100 a month or whatever for insurance or warranty on any body damage / liability in order to get my vehicle repaired if wrecked (as well as other persons)....then why would I not pay out a small amount $16 per month to insure the mechanical aspect of the vehicle? $100 month for body repairs, $15 month for mechanical repairs.....(simplistic way of looking at it).

  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I agree 100%. I can afford 20 bucks per month alot better than shelling out 3K or more at one time when I am 2500 miles from home or even in the front yard for that matter. I don't travel alot, but I do go far when I do travel (atleast 1 5K trip per year). I have only bought 1 warranty that was not used (Tundra) and 1 that was cash in within a year due to trade in (Tacoma). Figures that it would only be Toyotas that don't need the warranty. I did get another with my current Tacoma. My Chevy Astro broke to the tune of $2300, and my Jeep and Ford F250 both went down for over a grand each. The Ford broke on the way home from the dealer, so I definately didn't have an extra grand right after dropping a down payment. I made many trips cross country with young kids in some heaps. Spent the entire trip worrying about breakdowns. My first trip in a fully warranted Tundra had me worrying about whether the next town had a McDonalds. My piece of mind is well spent money.
  • woody72woody72 Posts: 73
    I have a '00 with the 2.7L with about 87K miles and have kept up with all filter, oil and plug changes but neglected to notice the 60K mile 'inspect valve clearance' in the maintenence schedule. It has a vibration at idle and check engine light is now on, otherwise runs fine. The mechanic says one of my #3 intake valves is bad hence low compression effecting the o2 sensor setting off the check light. He recommends a valve job at between $2300-2800! Does anyone routinely adjust these valves at 60K mile intervals? If my clearance is tight, keeping a valve from completely seating will a valve adjustment help or is it too late, the heat damage has been done? Would appreciate any related comments, thanks
  • I have a 2001 2.7L Tacoma with these black caps. They seem really tight when prying on them after removing the bolt. I hate to break something but should these just pry off or is there something else involved?
  • Howdy, I have the same code on a Tacoma. Did you ever figure out the problem? I am working overseas and do not have much information resources here. Thanks for any help you may send my way. Rick
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    In reply to your contaminants and molecular chain sizes I would like to say that I have owned a Toyota 1995 22re truck ran it on Walmart brand 10w30 Full Synthetic oil $2.99 a quart and cheaper by the gallon and a Fram Orange Can Of Death oil filter to the tune of 235,000miles with 5000-6500 miles between changes without any related problems because of it. I have since sold the truck and have purchased a new 2004 v-6 TRD and run Mobil 1 and a Fram X-2 7000mile oil filter,and change at 6500 miles religiously with grease and forsee no problems with doing so,if you have the time to roll under your truck at every 3500-4000miles go ahead but there care no problems with extending your intervals with synthetic oils and a qaulity oil filter that should handle the extended level of contaminates for a stated interval,as long you are regular with your adjusted maintainence schedule. The 1995 truck i sold is still running strong as a daily driver to a young guy I sold it to so something must have attributed to this. ;)
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I don't doubt that you could have had the same results with "dino oil" and a good quality filter. 5K miles is the interval currently recommended for the Taco. If you've noticed, the engine oil specifications have been changing for decades, the quality and performance of the additive packages being the difference. As a result, most mfrs have increased intervals accordingly.

    5k-6.5k is not that long, particularly if a significant amount of it is highway driving, and you have relatively few short trips. Short trips are particularly tough on engines and exhaust, as they often don't allow the systems to warm up enough to rid themselves of some of the moisture. The extended times that were being discussed were far in excess of 5k or 6k (miles).

    In my particular case, I drive predominately short trips (<5 mi.) I therefore change my oil more by calendar time than actual mileage (averaging about 4k/6months).

    None of the people I personally know who have really long engine mileage histories have used synthetics. That's no more statistically valid than any other anecdote, so it doesn't mean that the only way to long engine life is with dino oil. The point is that if you use the science to determine oil drain interval, you won't greatly increase the interval just because you use synthetics. You CAN justify extending if you sample and find contaminant levels are acceptable, and viscosity within range. (the best being to sample, and at least change the filter on a regular basis) But if you then apply the economics of the higher oil cost and the sampling cost, most will find that it is more economical to just use dino oil and filter at the mfr's recommended interval. (OTOH, the 2005 V6 Taco does make filter change and sample collection extremely convenient, whereas older models require almost as much effort as if you were to do the oilchange anyway.)

  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    I understand your point of view but also if you look at the prices of oil change shops such as iffy lube and grease junky they are quite high for an oil change and supposely a chassis grease if they do it,and the questional qaulity of thier products and qaulity of service. I feel if you change your own oil way not use the superior qaulity products within your price range whether its mobil1 or walmart super tech synthetic do it yourself probably save yourself alot of money and know its done right and despose of the waste in an enviromently friendly way. Some walmart brand synthetics are only $2.99 a quart which is only slightly higher than name brand dino and offers superior performance and protection(scientifically proven). Mobil 1 can operate to at least 8,000miles or higher also (scientifically proven)so for myself Ive come up with a compromise my manufactorers OCI recommends 6000miles so change it at 6500miles with superior qaulity products and still save$ money and know its done right so I actually save money over the oil change places and know if I drive over my OCI that the superior qaulity of my products will protect my engine while the others won't.I guess you could save a few dollars more by using dino and everything may be hunky-dory,but I personally like to use superior products within price range in my superior brand Toyota truck :P
  • trkjrtrkjr Posts: 2
    I just got a '05 Tacoma DC 4WD, w/ the 4.0 V6, that i picked up with about 17,000 miles on it.

    it sat for awhile, so the engine compartment is kinda dirty/dusty. can i get the engine cleaned and detailed, or will that cause other problems?

    Also, I've been reading a lot of other letters here about what oil/filter people are using.

    those of you not using synthetic, what brand oil are you using, along with filter, and are you using the reccomended 5w-30w that Toyota advises?

  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    I have a 2004 Tacoma TRD v6 and started using Mobil1 and Fram X2 oil filter at 30,000miles,just recently switched to Pennzoil platinum Synthetic 5w30 with Valvoline maxlife oil filter(free w/rebate),I think Pennzoil platinum runs better than Mobil1 in my truck. Check this website for good info go to forums section great info there. I am definetly pro synthetic I go 6500miles between changes,Toyota probably recommends Toyota filters and oil they probably very good for conventional,I like doing it myself and use good products that last and protect and the do it yourself offsets :P the cost. :P
  • trkjrtrkjr Posts: 2
    did you have any troubles when you switched to Synthetics? did you have to do anything special when you switched?

    I was actually wondering what people's favorite dino oil was?

    I wasn't sure i needed to go synthetic.
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    Absolutely no problems when switched,I do alot of driving for my work and daily driving I chose synthetics for that reason depending on your needs there is alot of good dinos out there Texaco Havoline dino is rated as one of the best and less than $2 a quart at Walmart,if I was going Dino it would be Havoline and Toyota brand filter,I am sticking with synthetic probably Pennzoil Platinum it runs goood I think better than Mobil1 and cheaper can get it reasonably with rebates available sometimes. Also Walmart Brand Super Tech full synthetic is a great bargin 5quart jug only like $12 and change used it in 1995 Toyota truck ran great over 225,000 miles on truck dont let the Walmart tag scare you its good oil. Its basically your choice what you want to spend and how much protection youll need I like to spend a little extra because I like my truck plus using synthetics in engine and axles with Denso double platinum sparkplugs has raised my gas mileage from 20.50mpg to 21.45,and now 22.46mpg and its drivability and power are alot better read website go to forums there is a wealth of knowledge there for free. :P :P :P :P :P
  • eswartzeswartz Posts: 2
    I just recently purchased a used 2004 Toyota Tacoma 4dr Prerunner w/ TRD V6 and SR5 (and the list goes on......). What is the intervals for tuneups on this vehicle? My wife's 2004 Highlander is 100k and I couldn't seem to put my finger on the manual where it states that. I am considering putting Mobil 1 in my and hers soon. I ran it in my Accord 4dr Ex for years and it was excellent. I am however happy to be back to the Toyota product and especially their trucks. My old Toyota was a 88 Toy w/ 22RE and 4wd. What a great truck. I want to drive it "sanely" so I can get good gas mileage. I see you have yours up over 22. That is impressive. What size tires and what else have you done? I wouldn't mind the custom air filter also to help.


  • zdmazdma Posts: 6
    Hi folks I have 05 Tacoma w/TRD package. Recently the truck has continuous rubbing noise, sounds from front tires. When drive off road or pass speed bump it&#146;s getting worse, annoying like you&#146;re squeezing something. I saw guys from a Scion forum say that TRD suspension&#146;s easy to get this problem, is it true? Sent back to dealer once, they said everything normal. Like that forum says "everything&#146;s fine, yet the problems still exist". Sigh...

    Thanks in advance
  • vabundezvabundez Posts: 2
    where is the transmission gauge located in a 2006 toyota tacoma v6??
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    There isn't one. It just has a fill hole on the side of the transmission. If the fluid is up to hole then the the fluid level is fine. Kind of like the rear differential.
  • Just had my "Maintanence Required" light to come on and stay on - on my 2005 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab pickup. Mileage is at 11,000 +.

    Anyone know what I need to check for or probably replace?

    Thanks for your replies.
  • kbcvgkbcvg Posts: 1
    I have an '05 Tacoma, V6. Any idea how to loosen and remove the oil filter housing in order to turn it upside down to take off the filter?
  • cctruckcctruck Posts: 4
    It probably just means you need to change the oil, I think they're set to go off every 5K and the mechanic resets it after doing the maintenance. You can reset it yourself, look in the manual for instructions.


  • nytaco05nytaco05 Posts: 13
    Its just part of the new smart cars system. Everyday it self diagnose itself and keeps track of the last maintenance period as well. It is programmed to set off every 5k miles or so, unless there is a malfunction with the engine or brakes or anything in that nature.
  • Well, that is a story in itself because I have had the last and first two oil changes since I bought this Taco at a Pennzoil oil change center. The first time I had the oil changed, I checked the oil immediately after they changed it and it showed up as a slighty clear color on the dipstick and the oil filter was a Pennzoil brand filter. A little oil was spilled also. No biggy, just a sure sign that it was changed.

    Second time, (After 3K miles) I checked the oil's color and it had become more of a brown color by then and so I went back to the same place and had it changed again. I checked it when my wife brought it home and guess what? Same brown color, no signs of oil spillage, dust still on the filter, and the "Maint Required" light comes on about 2 weeks after that.

    I think I will change it myself from now on.

    So, how do those of us that use jiffy-type lube up centers now for a solid fact that thier oil is actually being changed?
  • nytaco05nytaco05 Posts: 13
    I take my truck to the dealership. Its not cheap, but I love the customer service there and the quality of their work. I rather pay the extra $ knowing that it's being spent rightfully. You know what they say, you get what you paid for.
  • Great! You need a pat on the back but, I think you missed the point. There is no sure way of knowing that they changed it for sure unless you change it yourself. Even your friendly dealer to whom you like to spend more money on because you want to get what you pay for, could be doing the same thing with a smile. That's my point.
This discussion has been closed.