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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions



  • Since that last posting the security alarm went off three times again on Wednesday 23 March with no provocation. I am going to lock the doors with the key. That way the alarm will not set but the doors will lock. The two ways the security alarm will set is the push button lock or the push button on the key fob. I once owned an old Nova that you had to bang the dash board with your fist to get the heater fan to go on. Looking back now I didn't realize how advanced that technology really was.

    Still waiting on California to respond to a real and definite fix for this dilemma.

  • robl2robl2 Posts: 6
    Toyota offers paid public access to online repair manuals:

    "Toyota offers easy and immediate access to many service publications on-line through the Technical Information System (TIS). TIS is available to the public through a subscription at

    Subscriptions to this information service can be purchased for daily, monthly or annual access. TIS provides access to all of the key service, maintenance, and reference publications necessary to support Toyota vehicles including:

    Collision repair manual
    Electrical wiring diagram
    Owner's manual
    Repair manual
    Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)
    Information is generally available for U.S. market vehicles starting from the 1990 model year, but specific information can be found in the TIS Library Content table. Please note that this site does not include any part catalog, ordering, or application information.

    The information found in TIS is presented in PDF format and requires the Adobe Acrobat®viewer for viewing and printing."

    The $10 for 24 hr. access could be useful for those who would like to perform their own maintenance/repairs. I'm not sure how cost effective this would be over the long run compared to purchasing printed copies of the repair manuals.
  • I had an 89 Toyo PKP, 4X4, manual w/250,xxxmiles, had same problem when restarting after running. The cold start injector was leaking fuel, causing a flooding condition. Unplugged injector, problem solved. By holding accelerator to floor, a clear flood method, no fuel will be injected by processor---truck will start when hot, if cold start injector is defective.
  • The Haynes manual for color code on ECM doesn't match what's on the truck. Has code 31 for Air Flow Meter, hard fault, values in limits at Air Flow Meter, but can't follow to ECM because of no match to values at processor. Truck stalls on acceloration, is manual trans. O2 is operating, catalitic is not restricted, temp sensor OK---all started w/no start problem, fuel pump wires in two, corrected that, now running problem.
  • vtxmenvtxmen Posts: 1
    It is possible that the wiring is already in place. All you would have to do is purchase the OEM fog lamps or after market substitutes and pop them in. You would also need to purchase the stock switch and the fog lamp relay which fits in the fuse box in the engine compartment.
  • bayvillabayvilla Posts: 2
    I have a 93 Toyota Pickup with 105K miles and I am having a problem with the manual transmission occasionally popping out of gear. It only happens in 1st, 3rd & 5th and never after the clutch is engaged. When I remove the shift boots, the problem gets better but does not go away completely. I was also told that a new rear mount for the transmission might help, since it might have sagged over the past 12 years, but after I replaced it, the problem seemed to get worse.

    It is just not going into gear correctly in 1st, 3rd & 5th. Could it be that the clutch is not fully disengaging or maybe something in the shifter? I don't think it is internal to the transmission, because the things I have done seem to make a difference.

    Anyone have any ideas on what I should try?

  • coastie1coastie1 Posts: 20
    I have a 2005 Tundra, Access cab 4wd.. i seem to have problem witht he tailgate closing tight, it closes and locks, but it seems not line up evenly, when it is closed.. has anyone had problems with this..Thanks you for you time.
  • pennitoypennitoy Posts: 3
    Hello, Having a few problems and need some second opinions.

    This is a 4 cylinder, 5 speed, manual transmission pickup with approx 99,000 miles.
    It started running a little rough on acceleration, so Toyota dealer cleaned fuel injecters and adjusted valves. Now the truck sounds like a tractor when it runs and idles very poorly. They say it is just fine and no problems, but maybe will need a timing chain one day, but I'll know if that happens (how will I know that?). What I don't understand is how these two services that should have improved performance actually made things worse and why they won't acknowledge any problems when the truck sounds so awful.

    Second problem, which I wasn't really aware of, is they tell me clutch is getting weak and will need replaced shortly. They say that clutch has to be almost released entirely before gear engages. The thing that I wonder about is that I have all of my service records from time of purchase of this truck brand new and this clutch has never once even been adjusted, but now they say it needs to be entirely replaced. I have heard that clutches can be adjusted. Is that not the case with these Toyota trucks?

    Yes, obviously, I'm a girl and know very little about vehicles, so any advice will be most appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    It's hard to diagnose the "sounds like a tractor when it runs" without hearing it, but idles poorly is not so good. I take it that you don't have a MIL indication (Malfunction Indicator Light or "Check Engine" light illuminated). If the MIL is on, you can have someone plug in an OBD reader, or with the OEM svc manual, jump 2 pins on the connector and read the trouble codes by counting flashes of the MIL light on the dash. Again, without hearing the engine for myself, it's hard to say, but I wouldn't think that the sound and the rough idle would necessarily be connected.

    Possibilities- air cleaner cover/ductwork not properly sealed (will give a throaty sound to it), bad exhaust manifold, piping, or seal; bad idle control solenoid (affecting idle).

    Regarding the clutch- if your clutch is operated by an hydraulic master cylinder (sometimes referred to as an hydraulic clutch) it is mostly self adjusting. Look on the firewall to see if you find a reservoir that looks a lot like a brake master cylinder reservoir, but that is not the brake master cylinder. (The clutch master cylinder will not have the big round "can" vacuum booster that you have with power brakes.) If you find a clutch master cylinder, it's likely that the clutch doesn't need adjustment (there should also be some reference in your owner's manual). 93K miles is not bad service from a clutch disc in any event. Cost shouldn't be outrageous unless this is allowed to go on so long that it damages the flywheel.

    I would not normally bring the clutch problem to a dealer, unless you're lucky enough to have found a svc dept that you have the greatest confidence in (like I have w/ the local Pontiac/Saturn dealership here). Find a good general mechanic shop with a lot of good references from friends, and see what they say. Perhaps get his opinion BEFORE committing to any repairs.

    Good luck.
  • reedfarmreedfarm Posts: 3
    I have not had this problem on my toyota, but have an 83 Mercedes that does the same thing and I know it's the transmission. Another possibility I can think of is a loose or broken motor mount.
    Let us know what the dealer says.
  • lubin5lubin5 Posts: 1
    The horn periodically goes off.
  • badbobp1badbobp1 Posts: 1
    Hey bayvilla, it's the transmission!! My 91 did the same things you are describing at around 110,000 mi and the final fix was new bearings in the manual transmission. I did it myself and the only problem I had was one bearing, it required a special puller that I didn't have. The local Toyota dealer said bring the shaft to them and they would pull it for me. It worked out great.
  • mgregorymgregory Posts: 6
    Hi, Did you ever figure out what was wrong. I have the same problem with my 2004 camry on the drivers side only. After two days of a driving rain storm, and my camry sitting in the drvieway, not being driven I might add, I had water on the driver side only, under the carpet, and soaking thru the carpet. No where else. Toyota wanted to say I drove High water like the rest of the idiots in Pensacola did, but I didn't, and my driveway wasn't under water. They are calling me a liar. Can you help me? MY car just came out of the shop the day before, for a new steering column mechanism. The next thing I know the driver's side is soaked and Toyota is making me take the fall calling me a liar. Please help. This car is still under warranty. I didn't drive in rain or water, it wasn't under water, it was just in a driving rain storm in my driveway.
  • mgregorymgregory Posts: 6
    Hi, I don't have a truck, but a 2004 camry xle. I am taking on water on the drivers side as well. We had a driving rain storm for 2 days here in Florida. I opened my door after not driving for 2 days and and found the the bottom door sill beaded up with moisture, and the carpet soaked from the gas pedal back under the drivers seat to the rear passenger seat. I was told oh you must have driven through high water like the other 20 cars sitting back there. 1. I didn't drive for 2 days, because the rain was so bad. Ther car stay parked in my driveway, and my driveway didn't flood, my house would have been under water, 2. why did only the drivers side get the water on it? 3. could it be coming throught the fire wall? 4. toyota is calling me a liar. This makes me angry. There is something wrong with their car
  • morticusmorticus Posts: 1
    When I accelerate from 0mph, at any speed of acceleration, I hear a knocking noise centralized (at least from the driver's seat) somewhere under the bed of the truck. I read other's posts about a knocking noise, but nothing near or under the bed. As if a bolt is loose, or something. Originally, it occured only when braking, also at any speed/rate of braking, which is still continues to do so. This happens, when accerating or braking, a good 9 out of 10 times. Annoying. Before I turn it to the dealership, please don't let me turn it to the dealership, any possible solutions or suggestions?

    Thank you.
  • oorickoooorickoo Posts: 2
    I bought my truck in Jan. 05. It seemed like it was holding back while Accelerating I cleaned out the Catalytic converter and reinstalled. It would not shift to over drive till it warmed up some. Now it its doesn't want to shift to 3rd gear or over drive till I'm over 50 miles per hour. also replaced the transmission filter. That did not help. Sometimes it does seem to work right which leads me to believe I have a sensor problem. I could sure use some help. Thanks
    Rick McCarthy
  • pennitoypennitoy Posts: 3
    thanks msibille,
    I'll look in to your advice and appreciate it all! :)
  • You did not say whether you bought this vehicle new or used. I have a 89 Toyota camry V-6 that exhibited almost those same symptoms at 40,000...herky jerky motion when going into overdrive at 42 MPH. The fix was changing all the injectors, somewhere bad gas or due to time, the injectors became varnished and were all bad. Poor gas mileage too.

    You'll know you fixed the problem when you accelerate gradually and ease into overdrive, the transmission will shift smoothly and RPM will drop. Fixed my 89 but cost almost $900 for all six new injectors. I did the work myself with a friend on a Saturday morning, by 1PM all was fixed.

    In Germany, where that work was done, the Toyota dealer there had never had a car in their shop with injector problems. Obviously clean fuel and autobahn speeds clean things out!!
    Good Luck
  • Howdy ya'll. Hoping someone can help me out. I've had my 2003 tacoma for about 2.5 years (bought brand new... now is pushing 30,000 miles).... and it's been treating me great. A few months ago thought it started to make this type of rattling noise that's kind of hard to describe. It's kind of high pitched shaking noise... (almost sounds like 2 pieces of metal shaking against each other or something)... the thing is when I press on the clutch the sound completely stops... I barely even have to touch the clutch and the noise always stops. If I'm in neutral the noise is at a steady pace, but when the rpm's pick up or I accelerate the noise gets faster. When this started the noise wasn't too bad, but now it's getting pretty annoying. It's not obnoxiously loud or anything, but you can definitely hear it inside and especially outside of the truck.

    Any thoughts or ideas.... please help!!!
  • deucemandeuceman Posts: 1
    Hi - I have the same problem, so it goes back as far as '81. Over a period of 2 years, I've changed carb; fuel pump, fuel tank, cleaned lines, changed filters, spark plugs, plug wires, ignitor and distributor. In the middle of all these changes; timing chain and gears were replaced and head was reworked; block and head were checked for surface level before reassembly. My problem starts with a turn of the ignition key. It will run fine for a while if I stay below 60 mph; but if I try for a freeway speed whether hot or cold; that's it - spitting and sputtering with my top speed steadily decreasing until it's about 25 -30 mph and I manage to limp off the freeway at the next exit. If someone has a cure for this problem, I'd really be glad to try it. I have been thinking of changing to a V6 or V8 and forgetting about Toy power all together.
  • slawdogslawdog Posts: 1
    This message is to all the girls that are crying over a " Squeak" . Listen up,,,, change out of your good clothes and put your work britches on, cause you might get you're hands a little dirty.Now,,,,using a good heavy duty machine oil,,,let a few drops of it seep in around the leafsprings BUSHINGS. don't be afraid to do both sides, cause we don't know which one might be the culprit. while you are doing some of this "routine stuff" look at the front and back strut and shock BUSHINGS too. They are sure in need of this tender loving care as well. I bet you that a small amount of oil will cost less than a " U Joint" job,,, I have a 95 Tacoma 4x4 with 242,000 miles and it loves me when I do these little things to her. never ever have had a major repair just simple Maintenance...............oh ,,to the dude with the rattle noise, sounds like the converter has some loose enternal material clangging. My Tacoma does it when it is cold just after I crank her up,,I guess it's been doing this for 3 yrs, but after it warms up it dissapates. You might need to have it checked out, depending on where you live, my State won't let it pass the emmisssion test with a rattling catalytic converter. good luck!
  • flormatt1flormatt1 Posts: 1
    i have this problem with my truck. i hope there's some1 out there who knows what it is.ok i have a 97 tacoma 2.4L automatic trans. reg cab. there's a grinding noise coming from the front. at first a thought it was the idler pulley so i replaced it. it's not it.i replaced the water pump. not it. i replaced the alternator.still not it.the weird thing about it is.when i take the alternator belt out the sound is not there, but as soon as i install the belt back on. the sound comes back on.please help any1.don't know what to check you go on higher rpm the sound gets louder too. i replaced everything else. i need help . thanks...
  • sidmelsidmel Posts: 1
    Hey jpataco

    I just returned from the Toyota dealer when having a similar problem, except mine is a horrible squeak. Putting in the clutch stops it immediately, but while in neutral or in gear you can hear it loud and clear. They told me it's a tension pully on one of the belts directly beneath and to the left (facing the truck) the engine. I was told it needed to be taken off and oiled. While I was there, he sprayed WD40 on it while trying to identify the noise and has since made it twice as bad.

    Looks like a job for this weekend.
  • I've got the v6 2x4 and only get 16mpg! The ONLY complaint I can muster about my Tundra is the fuel mileage. I understand that the V8 gets better mileage. Is this because the larger engine, pushing the same frame, doesn't have to work as hard?

  • Sorry to hear it. My '02 Tundra has been the best vehicle (except for the gas mileage) I've ever owned. Mine is as tight as a drum.

  • reedfarmreedfarm Posts: 3
    I have an 04 Tundra with the towing package.
    I need to install an electric brake controller for my trailer. The truck cane with a pig tail that plugs into the wiring harness for this purpose. The problem is the wires are a different color than the electric brake controllers on the market. I Spent 80 bucks on a controller and shorted it out by connecting the wrong wires. I've talked to 2 dealers and they were useless.
    Does anyone know the combination?
  • ghr4newghr4new Posts: 1
    I hope someone can help me solve my dilemma. I recently bought a '92 Toyota extended cab pick up truck. I soon noticed that whenever I applied the brake pedal several other lights besides the brake lights come on.
    The other lights that come on are: The front parking lights, the light that lights up the dashboard as well as the rear license plate light. I thought the problem might have been from a crossed wire from an aftermarket tow hitch wiring harness that had been installed. I removed the harness and all the wires associated with it, and re-taped the wiring. Still the lights continue to come on. The truck also had an aftermarket alarm system. A "Code Alarm Vehicle Security System", model 707 Plus 4.0. I removed the alarm and all its associated wiring, but still the lights continue to turn on. I even purchased a Chilton's repair manual with the hopes of tracing the wiring but the diagrams on these books nowadays are skimpy at best; it doesn't even show the wiring for the headlights! I remember their older books, they used to have pretty thorough diagrams. I guess not any more! I've disconnected just about everything, including taking the instrument panel out, disconnected all wiring leading up to the column to the light control unit. Disconnected the dimmer switch and still the other lights continue to come on. I hope someone can help me solve this problem.
    Thank you. ";
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    Good luck with sorting out your electrical problem. I admire how far you've gone on your own to solve it.
    You might have some luck if you post it on another board in Maintenance and Repair (I think), called Got a Quick, Technical Question? (I think).

    Re wiring diagrams - I wonder if the electronics on modern cars are so complex that they're harder to draw up.
  • hartmhartm Posts: 2
    Would someone please respond with proper torque spec.? Can not find service manual on this vehicle
  • wjfosswjfoss Posts: 3
    I have an '02 Tundra that has an intermittent squeaking/squealing problem in the engine. It usually occurs first thing in the morning from a cold start up. After driving several miles, the sound will go away and I'm good for the rest of the day. Even when it sits in the work parking lot after the morning drive in, the drive home is usually uneventful. The sound can occur anytime, in any weather, any season. Right now, the noise is rearing it's ugly head again and seems to be louder than ever. Sometimes it's little embarrassing driving the vehicle. At times, I can lessen the noise by kicking on the AC. I'm sure it's an issue with belts/tensioner/pulley. Just curious to hear if anyone has had this issue and if they found any resolution to the problem. I know this is a truck and it is not supposed to ride like a car. You are going to have different noise, sounds, etc. But with less than 25000 mi. and just under 3 years old, I think the sounds I'm hearing shouldn't be heard from a vehicle so young. I'm not too car/truck savvy, but I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty. If there is anything in way the of self-maintenance I can perform, educate me. Thanks.
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