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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • Subaru doesn't make their own clutches - they use parts spec'd from a company named exedy. My local wants to replace it with a part made by daikin, which seems to be a subsidiary of exedy. What I can't determine is how they stack up in terms of quality - I certainly don't want to get exedy's "bargain basement" part, given the reputation their OE part has.

  • ebony5ebony5 Posts: 142
    I too have '96 OBW. How do I find out when it was manufactured?
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    The driver door jamb should have a metal sticker type thing towards the bottom that has the build date and place of manufacture. Should be next to the sticker with tire pressures.

  • ebony5ebony5 Posts: 142
  • Yep, found the small cover panel and the 16pin OBDII connector was right there! Scanner came up with code P1702. Most DTC code explanations say "Auto Trans Diagnosis Input Signal Circuit"...I found one web site that said "Subaru- P1702 - Trans Range Sensor Intermittent Malfunction".
    My guess is/ sounds like the trans sensor/module took an intermittent hiccup. I cleared the code and will wait to see if the CEL comes back on again. If it does I will have to pursue.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,920
    Excellent and well done! Argh... transmission. Hopefully, if the problem recurs, repair will only involve a sensor and is not indicative of a looming mechancial failure. :sick:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    That's exactly the way it's supposed to work according to their instruction book. But it didn't.
  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    Sorry pyrilium, there's no mfr on the invoice, just a part number Clutch Kit NU31538. Maybe this helps.
  • try Mr. Clean Magic eraser!! It cleans anything off of hard surfaces.
  • Goose,

    Thx for the part number. So far no matches (full number on google and yahoo gives 0 hits!), but I'll keep trying. My local mechanic is looking into the possibility of ordering either an exedy or act performance clutch, so I'm optimistic. He does very good work, and I think his objection to customer-supplied parts is based on a reluctance to install anything of questionable quality. I'll update as the situation warrants.

  • s anyone else here unhappy with Subaru ABS ? I sure am!!!
    When I got home I drove the Outback around the block. Just as I thought. As soon as I hit the brake, the damn ABS kicked in and I almost slid through the intersection. Every time I tried to stop on snow the ABS would kick in. This happened with my last tires several weeks ago and now with my brand new expensive Yokohamas.
    Is there something wrong with my car or is this how over-sensitive Subaru's ABS is ???
    This is rediculous. Do I have to disconnect the ABS fuse when I drive in the snow?////


    What Yokohama tires? How many miles on them? Pressure? Last alignment?

    If you have a hyper-active ABS system, it's going to kick in early all the time, not just on snow.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,920
    I seriously doubt that the ABS is the problem, though it might be an indicator that something else is wrong (tires, etc). The ABS keeps the tires from sliding, it does not cause them to slide. ;)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    the powertrain 5/60 warranty probably will cover it. they fixed my oil leak at almost 60K so I can't see why a coolant leak would be that different.
  • Has anyone installed a Nokia CK-7W or other bluetooth car kit in a 05+ Legacy or OB? Is there a competing model people are choosing?
  • I am also experiencing gasoline smells. It seems to be related to cold weather. The dealer tightened up the connections. He said that if that didn't work, they'd have to replace something. He also said that he had never had to do that on an Outback before, and only had to do it on an WRX once.

    It seemed to be better for a short while, but now is worse than ever. I have an appointment next week to bring in the car again and they are going to take a look.

    Has tightening up connections been sufficient for others?

  • I'm trying to get the heater/ac control unit out of the dash of my '98 legacy wagon, and I can't find my service manual copy to get diagrams for removal. Can anyone post the relevant pages for getting to the climate control module, and maybe its disassembly?

    I'm trying to get in and replace the original backlight bulbs (now burned out) with LEDs like I just did for my heated seat control switches :)
  • I took the car to the dealer and you and another poster were right. Front seals leaking ($1100 including new timing belt and water pump), gaskets leaking ($400) and rear access cover ($800). Plus there are brake issues and the 90k service. All told, close to $3,000. Of course, the question of a new car comes up now but that's another story. One question, though, about the rear seal. I seem to recall some question as to whether this is misdiagnosed. Many times the oil blows to the back of the engine and it looks like a leak but really is not. The service person also said something about the cover being plastic as opposed to metal and that contributes to the leak.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,920
    Of all the seal/gasket leaks I have had to fix on my 2.5L over the years, never have I had a problem with the rear main. (Oops! Now it'll hit the fan....) You're right; regardless of where the leak occurs, it looks like it could be coming from the rear main on initial inspection. Both times I had the engine out of the car, the area around the rear was clean as a whistle on the inside, so it was all blown back/dripped down/oozed.. take your pick. ;)

    That is not to say that the rear main could not go, just that it (in my experience) is far more robust than the valve covers, cam seals, etc.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • :sick: Hi...its been a while since I have been on this forum...but now I am back due to some recent issues that have come up with my 01 LL Bean Outback. I now have approximately 116,500mi on it and it is currently in the shop awaiting its second right front drive axle replacement. For the second time (first at 60kmi) the inboard boot has a gaping hole in it. I am having them replace the entire axle since it would probably cost almost as much to re-pack both boots plus I am not really sure how long it has been torn. My understanding is that this boot is prone to damage since it sits right above the exhaust pipe. Has anyone else experience this kind of problem? Also, I attempted to replace the axle myself but it was a royal pain in the one point, after breaking the lower control arm loose from the axle assembly pulled out of the transfer case (I had not removed the roll-pin at this time). I am worried that the sub-shaft that the axle is pinned to may have had some sort of retention clip inside the transfer case. If that is the case, then it pulled off and its laying in my transfer case. Can anyone comment on this?

    Last, I understand that the timing chain on the h-6 should probably be replaced at about 150mi. Anyone replace one of these yet? How many miles are a realistic life expectance for it?

    Any help on these would greatly be appreciated!

  • Hi everyone. I have a 06 Subaru Outback 2.5i Base Wagon purchased in January.

    It now has 1900 miles on it and the engine makes a noticeable intermittent (on and off) ticking noise when idle and when coasting. It seems to go away after the engine is driven a good 5 minutes or so. Based on what I've read in the past this is most likely due to a piston slap or a belt tensioner issue.

    The ticking noise isn't very loud and can only be heard with the radio off. Should this be a concern? My Subaru dealer is 40 miles away and I don't want to take it in just for them to say "it's normal".

    Also the center console trim squeaks when driving on bumpy roads and the front doors develop a intermittent rattle aggrevated by rough roads. Are these all problems that Subaru owners learn to live with or can be fixed by the dealership?

    Thanks for your help.
  • ebony5ebony5 Posts: 142
    Well there is no sound coming from the drivers side speakers both front and rear of my car. Do not know what it could be. Perhaps bad channel, wiring etc. who knows. Any ideas on this? If I need to replace the unit is there anywhere to get a good used radio system? (I really do not need an expensive radio,cd, mp3 nor satelitte type setup). Any suggestions on a new replacement, and where to have it installed in the New York City vicinity? How difficult would it be to install it myself and where could I get the instructions?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,920
    I know this is going to sound like a ludicrous suggestion, but did you check the balance knob on the radio.... perhaps it was turned by a gloven hand or something inadvertent? I think the balance is the knob closest to and below the on/off/volume knob. I rarely ever use mine, so if you have not used it, you can push on it and it will pop out to use.

    Barring that silliness; not sure what it could be to cause both speakers to quiet simultaneously unless, like you suggested, the left channel just went kaput on the head unit. I have a Sony receiver from '92 that likes to do that every so often. :mad: So, it is not an impossibility! I think I would just opt for a replacement stock unit - either eBay or a scrap yard should get you one fairly cheap compared to new replacements.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    Concur with the E-Bay idea. I actually replaced my 04XT's with a combo tape / CD unit from a WRX. Tapes? What are those.. :P <- haven't gotten around to porting them all to CD's yet.

    BTW - the check the balance knob is a really good idea. I managed that in one of my Mercury's a number of years ago.

    Good luck.

  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    I don't have your other rattles, so the dealer should be able to fix those.

    I did and once again have the piston slap problem noise. At about 48k I had 2 pistons replaced on my 2001 because of bad noise for about 10 minutes on a really cold day (-15F). I could drive about 10 miles before the noise went away. The noise is back now at 85k but only on cold days (< 25F)and only for about a minute.
    From what I've read and from what the mechanic saw while replacing the first pistons, its not an issue, just a noise to live with.

  • ebony5ebony5 Posts: 142
    I wish it were the balance knob but...............Thanks. I will check out ebay and research installation options.
  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    That was my main issue with my wife's 03 OBW - the noise never went away, 10 miles or 200, cold, warm, hot, didn't matter.

    If it comes back and goes away after its warmed up, I'll not complain.

  • I think I've got the same problem on my 99 Outback w/ 86K miles. Just took it to the dealer for an oil change and asked about a similar oil burnoff smell coming from the engine. They said it was a leak around the rear separator plate, and I was quoted ~$550 USD for the repair (most of which is labor). Is this the rear seal you guys are referring to, or is this something different? Should I have the other seals, gaskets you mentioned checked too?
  • It now has 1900 miles on it and the engine makes a noticeable intermittent (on and off) ticking noise when idle and when coasting. It seems to go away after the engine is driven a good 5 minutes or so. Based on what I've read in the past this is most likely due to a piston slap or a belt tensioner issue.
    Just as a sanity check, you have checked the oil level? The H6 and turbos require an oil change at 3,000 miles. The h4 does not, but might be worth doing to see if it goes away.

    My old 97 made a lot of noise on cold starts unless fed Castrol.
  • My wife has a 1998 Subaru Outback with about 78k miles. Recently it has been hard starting, you turn the key and nothing happens. You give it a second or third try and it turns over. Had it in to independent shop on Friday, who checked the battery and gave it a okay, plus did a tune up and other stuff. Saturday Morning it does the same thing, you turn the key and nothing happens, you turn it a second or third time and it starts right up.

    What should we check now, Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
    Puzzled in Denver.
  • We had the same thing this past summer with a 98 OBW. Eventually it would not start at all. A number of problems from a faulty ignition switch to low battery can cause this but I put in a new starter and that fixed it. I suspect the solenoid that pushes the starter shaft into position, before the starter actually turns, got sticky but the whole new starter unit seemed a simple fix. Best have someone check it out before you get stranded.
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