Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

1199200202204205283

Comments

  • ronsteveronsteve LooavulPosts: 437
    OK, so when you said 180 miles, you were abbreviating... but definitely getting 12 mpg? I thought your earlier post said you only got 10 gallons in... so what leap of faith led you to drive long enough to get 15 gallons in on this tank?

    Remember, when you calculate your gas mileage, it's got to be from fillup to fillup... and divide your miles by the number of gallons you put in, not the size of the tank.
  • tkanictkanic Posts: 78
    05 OBi

    I got this error when driving on ice uphill when all 4 wheels were turning but all were slipping. After talking to the dealer I found out the Er-55 (orSS), means a problem with the speed sensor at the wheels. Basically the computer has decided that the wheels are spinning at different rates in a way that shouldn't be, so the computer thinks a speed sensor is bad and deactivates the ABS system and the cruse control, both of these systems depend on the speed sensors and if I recall correctly throw on the check engine light. If the computer sees all is OK with the speed sensor for 24 hours it will go back to 'normal mode' and everything will work again.

    With the tires double check that all 4 were replaced with all 4 brign the same size. Tire sizes use a system of something like 225/70/15 - it doesn't matter what the numbers are, just that all 4 are the same number and they are all equally worn.

    Sidenote, I find this car a bit annoying to drive highway w/o cruse control, so much so that I bought a OBD-2 scanner and carry it in the car so I can clear this trouble and regain my cruse control if this were to re-occur (most of my driving is long distances on the highway).
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sweet, congratulations.

    -juice
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,777
    Sorry if I sounded sarcastic, but your numbers just didn't look that bad.
    Two weeks ago I changed to 5w-30 Mobil 1 oil, and that, combined with the seasonal changeover to 'summer' fuel in this area netted me an almost 24mpg tank (349 miles on 14.6 gal - fuel light on for about 20 miles).

    My mileage dropped of a bit when I was having oxygen sensor problems last year. This is something that can be monitored using a diagnostic scope (shop), or one of the PC based OBD diagnostic tools.

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,777
    I had a lot of problems with thickness variation on my Subi's original rotors. If the car sat for a few days, or under certain driving conditions, it would develop a thumpy pulsation most noticable when braking, but even in just straight line driving. New front rotors have done wonders for the car.

    Steve
  • stevenm1stevenm1 Posts: 25
    Sounds like one possibility that you didn't mention is that you have a sticking valve in your #3 cylinder. A rough running engine when cold is a tipoff that the valve may be sticking until everything gets warmed up. What sometimes works is to use Marvel Mystery Oil in your oil and fuel; might be worth a try before you go through the expense of a valve job.
  • dduvalldduvall Posts: 1
    where is the upstream o2 sensor on a 2000 outback? need to replace but can't find it. already replaced downstream
  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    Just forward of the catalytic converter. You need to be under the car. It can be difficult to remove. Mine had to be sawed off in order to get a socket on it.
  • geneobgeneob Posts: 5
    I recently bought a 2001 Outback wagon with about 90000 miles. It has a 5 speed manual with the 2.5L engine. Somehow I missed it on the test drive but the engine seems to bog down on quick acceleration or starting off from a stop. The only effective way out of it is to back of the gas and accelerate slowly or massage the clutch until you get going. Even without a load, while in neutral, if you jump on the gas quick it will just bog down and then eventually rev up. This is usually followed by the CEL flashing several times and then remaining on for 5 or 6 engine starts. I have checked the plugs and changed the air and fuel filter, but no change.
    I am assuming that this is not an unusual problem so I would appreciate any suggestions.
  • njjulianonjjuliano Posts: 83
    I have an 02 and the pulsing brakes were an issuee in early ownership. A common one, from the MYs. The brakes were done, both rotors and pads, and did not have issues till recently. Started to feel the beginnings of the pulsation. Before sending it in, did the go upto 70 mph, solid brake till about 15mph, and do it again. It alleviated the issue.

    YMMV
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Spark or fuel, they say.

    I'd change the spark plug wires next. If those are original they are long gone (the ones on my Miata only last 30k miles before the engine starts to sputter).

    If that fails, what where the codes? If it was a cylinder misfire, again pointing to the spark, I'd change the ignition coil, about $80 from on-line Subaru wholesalers.

    -juice
  • stevenm1stevenm1 Posts: 25
    Before you continue to spend money on parts replacements, you should have the engine scanned with an OB-II scanner; it will show the code(s) that are causing the check engine light to go on. If the problem isn't the ignition coil or plug wires, the symptoms sound like you may have a problem with the knock sensor.
  • tankmastertankmaster Posts: 20
    Hi All,

    Anyone know what the mileage Subaru recommends replacement of the timing belt for a 98 outback/2.5 liter? Just got a used one without the service records. Called two dealers-one told methat the TB is scheduled for 60K replacement, while the other told me that because it's kevlar, it's replacement is scheduled 105 K miles.

    Thanks for any help.
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    I have a 98 Legacy 2.5 DOHC, is yours the DOHC or the SOHC? The DOHC is 90K. I think the 105K thing comes from CA emissions standards, its got zip to do with what the belt is made of.
  • tankmastertankmaster Posts: 20
    cptplt,

    Thanks for your response but, after reading it, I have concluded that you don't seem to have much knowledge of these engines.

    After I posted, I did my homework. 2.2 Liter engine requires a new belt at 60K. The 2.5 liter requires at 105K. Why the difference? One of the dealers that I talked with was correct. It's all in the material the belts are made of and the belt that the 2.5L engine uses is made of Kevelar so that's why it doesn't require change out untill 105K.

    The link below also confirms this.

    http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html#90-99maintenance

    Lastly, DOHC or SOHC???? No such thing as a SOHC in a 2.5 liter in 98 or any other 2.5L suby engine that I know of.
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,788
    All 2.5 turbos are DOHC engines.

    Bob
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/index.jsp?navid=SCHEDULE_1998

    so why do CA cars need timing belts changed at 105K and others sooner?????? I'm sure they don't make them of different materials in different markets! even in 96 when there were only 2.2s, CA cars needed belts changed at 105K and all other 49 states at 60K. there may well have been a change of material in the belt at some point but it had nothing to do with why they extended the interval. its pretty much an arbitrary thing but in CAs case, its mandated to be above a certain mileage to meet their weird emissions rules - what timing belt changes have to do with emissions, I have no clue! But just like they have "3K" oil change intervals in the US and several times that for the same engine in the rest of the world, its all rather arbitrary and dependent on what the local market expect with a little pinch of local regulations added!
    this topic about the difference in intervals for belt change has actually been discussed in the past on this forum.

    even Cars101 (a great site but hardly the holy bible) show 2.5 SOHC engines exist in outbacks from 98 MY. the 2.5 was initially all DOHC, then sometime about 2000MY they all went to SOHC and has been that way since for naturally aspirated engines and all 2.5s today are SOHC except the 2.5 turbo . this has also been discussed in numerous threads previously.
  • subarugurusubaruguru Posts: 18
    SOUNDS TO ME YOU COULD HAVE ONE OF TWO PROBLEMS
    1. A/F SENSOR (IT'S A 02 SENSOR IN A WAY ) THIS IS FOUND
    IN THE EXHAUST JUST IN FRONT OF CONVERTER IT WILL RETAIL
    FOR ABUT 130.00
    THIS SENSOR PLAY A HUGE ROLE IN AIR / FUEL RATIO (IE A/F SENSOR ) IN 2000 SUBARU DROPPED THE AIR FLOW
    METER AND WENT WITH A/F SENSOR "IT'S BETTER" NOT A CHANCE THESE BOSCH SENSORS ARE JUNK !!! WHAT'S YOUR FUEL MI LIKE YOU SHOULD GET A LEST 20 MPG IF NOT THE A/F SENSOR IS DONE
    YOU SHOULD FIND OUT WHAT CODE IS IN COMPUTER I WOULD PUT MONEY ON A A/F RELATED CODE LIKE A P0127
    ALSO A KNOCK SENSOR COULD CAUSE THIS BUT YOUR CAR SOUNDS A BIT EXTREAM FOR THIS
    HAVE SOME ONE SCAN YOUR COMPUTER .
    I WOULD REC TAKING IT TO SUBARU IT WILL BE COST LESS IN THE LONG RUN .
  • subarugurusubaruguru Posts: 18
    MIGHT HAVE YOUR TICKET HAVE THE GUY WORKING ON YOU CAR PULL DOWN THE EXHAUST AT THE HEADS IT'S ONLY SIX NUTS AND LOOK AT EXHAUST VALVES ON THE #3 CYL LOOK VERY CLOSE A SEE
    IF THERE IS A BLACK GOOP TAR LIKE STUFF ON VALVE STEM
    THIS COULD BE CAUSING A VALE TO BE STICKING/DELAYED CLOSING UNDER RPM ONLY
    ALSO SOME THINGS TO CHECK DID YOU NOTICE YOUR PROBLEM AFTER ANY ENGINE WORK WAS DONE CAM SEALS CRANK SEAL TIMING BELT i HAVE SEAN A EXHAUST CAM OFF ONE TOOTH CAUSE THIS PROBLEM I KNOW YOU SAID YOU PUT A 100 PARTS ON THE CAR BUT DID ANY ONE CHECK THE COIL DUMP SOME WATER ON IT WHEN IT IS RUNNING THE COIL AND IF IT LOOKS LIKE A THUNDER STORM
    YOU HIT PAY DIRT GOOD LUCK !
  • tankmastertankmaster Posts: 20
    Regarding post #6143,Bob, That's what I have been saying.

    But, lets be fair to cptplt. If you have information that can be substantiated that a SOHC 2.5 liter exists, Im always willing to learn something new.

    cptplt,

    Your comments on CA emissions/timing belts/oil changes have made my head spin. I just couldn't understand what it all meant with regard to 60 replacment of the 2.2 liter vs. 105 K for the 2.5 liter. You may be right and the 3 Subaru service departments that I talked to (spoke with the third yesterday) are all wrong about the 2.5 liter belts being made of a different material than the belt being used in the 2.2 liter engine. But, the 2.5 liter engine belt is replaced every 105K.
  • chelle68chelle68 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 OB with 98,000 miles on it. My check engine light goes on for awhile then goes off for awhile, sometimes daily sometimes weekly. When I get out and walk around the car it smells hot, like something is burning. We took it to a shop, they ran some tests and said it is either the O2 sensor or catalytic converter. Does the smell say anything to anyone and is there a way to know before I take it in and have both done? I'd rather only fix what needs to be fixed. Also, since the dealer is a ways away can I have it fixed by a general shop since the warranty is expired?
    Thanks!
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    You should lighten up on cptplt. Check out the N/A 2.5L engines built by Subaru. They are indeed SOHC. The turbos are DOHC. That is from the Subaru web page.

    I think some late MY 98's had the SOHC, but if not, I am fairly certain that the 99's were all SOHC. Regardless, they do indeed exist.
  • mmoncusmmoncus Posts: 1
    I hope you guys can help me. When I shift into reverse my engine revs like it is in neutral. I can get it to roll a little bit but not enough to pull out of a parking space. The forward gears don't seem to have any problems, it's just reverse. Do you think I will have to replace the whole transmission or is there something less expensive I can try first?
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    >If you have information that can be substantiated that a SOHC 2.5 liter exists, Im always willing to learn something new.

    check out the engine specs for the 06 Legacys(non turbo)
    http://www.subaru.com/shop/specifications.jsp?year=2006&model=LEGACY&trim=25I_SP- ECIAL_EDITION_SEDAN
    and its been like that since the turn of this century


    >But, the 2.5 liter engine belt is replaced every 105K.

    you are absolutely correct and my memory was at fault, mea culpa! I just remembered it was more than 60K and not the 90 I mentioned. I have a 98 Legacy GT with the 2.5 DOHC, I actually changed my belt at 60K as I had an oil leak which they needed to fix under warranty and the dealer said it would cost only a little more than the parts to do the timing belt at the same time as pretty much all the labor they needed to do the leak would also be needed for the timing belt. They actually ended up having Subaru cover the cost of the belt change too as they said it was "damaged" by the oil leak! One advantage of having the Subaru extended warranty, they have a tendency to do freebies for you, they also once changed the HVAC bulbs in the dash for free which is an uncovered item. I paid almost 2 hours labor to have that done on an older Legacy I had. IIRC saved just under hundred bucks with that free timing belt.
    I've actually been changing the belt at 60K intervals as when it was 120K, I figured I should get a new water pump for sure (having had very bad experiences with Acuras and water pumps going out at even less mileage) and again there is only a little more labor necessary to change the timing belt if you are going for the water pump.

    I think the basic jist of it all is that the manufacturers recommended 105K is more than adequate and 60 K was way excessive for the 2.2 as everyone in CA didn't have a problem changing it at 105K! Just as the rest of the world seems to do fine on 10K oil changes!
  • tankmastertankmaster Posts: 20
    cptplt,

    Interesting that the 06s use a SOHC.

    Now, I need yours and any other knowledable Suby owners help with my latest problem.

    Took the battery out tonight to get at #2 and #4 spark plug. I leftthe key in the ignition and had one rear window open. When I reconnect the battery, the alarm triggered. I disconeected the battery, removed the key form the ignition, connected the battery again, and the same think.

    Any ideas on how to immediately deactivate the alarm once I connect the battery?

    I remeber on my 95, you had to turn the door lock with the key. Will this work on the 98? Also, really curious as to why disconnectiong the battery would mess with the alarm.

    Thanks for any help
  • glaserglaser Posts: 1
    The A/C in my 06 Outback cycles cold to warm every 15 to 20 seconds. (I've been told once that it stays within the 'acceptable' range when it warms up, and once that it doesn't). I've taken it to the dealer a couple of times now, but I can't seem to get a straight answer. The first time they said nothing was wrong, but after having them sit in the car with me and feel it, they drained and recharged my compressor.

    Unfortunately, this did nothing as we found out last weekend on a road trip. I took it back in, and then the service agent called to tell me that he acknowledged something wasn't quite right, but that he'd need to keep it another day. The next day he told me that there was nothing wrong with it. In fact, he said, it is normal for the 06's to do that. He took me for a ride in another 06 and it did have a similar cycle, though it didn't do it when idling (mine does it all the time).

    I was excited about this Outback, but I'm afraid I'm going to regret that I bought a Subaru. If this is true of 06's, surely I can't be the only one experiencing this? Any suggestions?
  • steveb10steveb10 Posts: 13
    I have a similar deal going on with my '06 2.5i OB, with the frequent cycling. The dealer evacuated and re-charged as did yours. He measured the vent temp at 45 degrees, though I don't know if that's when the compressor is engaged or when its not, becuase I think there are some pretty wild swings in vent temp while the AC is running. Dealer claims the AC "works as designed". I have not been on a road trip yet though, but I do know the AC can't cool the car on a hot day on a short trip.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    For that year they call for inspection at 90k and replacement at 105k. That may be part of the confusion.

    -juice
  • The problem occurs between 60 and 70 mph when going up a steep grade (on way up to Lake Tahoe). When attempting to pass and one needs a lttle extra speed, attempting to "kickdown" the transmission by pressing hard on the accelerator results in an almighty bang, screaching tires, and a fear that the transmission is about to fall out!
    This problem only occurs under the above stated conditions--otherwise the car is great.
    The dealer can not/will not replicate the conditions--they don't want to drive the two hours up to Tahoe!!
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. DonM
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'd start with an ATF flush. Go to a place that has one of those machines that forces new fluid in and sucks the old fluid out.

    How is the ATF level now? Any burned smell?

    -juice
Sign In or Register to comment.