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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • Hi, Ateixeria,
    You're right, but what I'd forgotten is I'd bought the $1,000 extended warranty, so it is costing me $50. I usually don't buy those kinds of things but I am so glad I did! Another question, though. I paid $400 to have a new radiator installed by the initial garage, before we knew how serious it was. Subaru has indicated they won't pay for that, but is an extended warranty ONLY if the car is serviced by Subaru? I'd love some clarification, as I'd love to get that $400 back.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Play up the part that you were stuck out in the middle of nowhere and needed the radiator fixed. They might spring for some of it but technically yeah you need to have it serviced by Subaru for them to cover it.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Code means the Air/Fuel ratio is too rich.

    Haven't seen that one before, though, sorry.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, gotta agree with mike.

    Your warranty even includes Roadside Assistance, so their response would be "why didn't you have it towed to the closest dealer since that would have been free?"

    Call, though, and be real nice about it, tell them you have receipts and thought it was necessary.

    From Subaru's perspective, though, the radiator may not have been bad in the first place.
  • Thanks, Mike,
    I talked with them today and they are willing to review it, but I was within 75 miles of a Subaru dealer. I just hope they can figure out what happened and that nothing else goes wrong! Thanks for all your help.
  • Greetings, it has been a long time since I been on the board. But hopefully the board can help withthe following questions:
    1. When should the timing chain on the 3.0L Outbacks get changed? My outback has 102K on it now.

    2. This is a problem that I encountered tonight> Son was parking the car in the garage and he accidently turn the car off in drive. After putting the car in park, he attempted to start it and it will crank but not start. Several more trys were not successful. I disconnected the battery to clear any potential faults in the OBDC, no success. I cI disconnected the fuel line to the filter and pressed on the accelerator but no fuel squirted out so I assume the fuel pump may have been damaged by this incorrect turn off. Any suggestions?

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Timing Chain IIRC never needs replacement.

    That's odd, doubt it's the fuel-pump. But it's possible. If it were the shift interlock, I think it would not crank.

  • Thaks, Mike.

    Car is at the dealer right now (towed last night), no problems as yet found. Odd thing is, it has been running great till this happened.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That's the nice thing about a chain vs. a belt!

    I do think it's supposed to be inspected at some point.
  • I can feel the thunking good. It stops when I finish the turn, but not when I let off the gas. In fact it is just as bad when I am coasting in a tight turn. Thanks for you help.
  • My Contour and my Accord both rejected the Bosch plugs. The Contour ended up with the OEM double platinum Autolites and the Honda got NGKs.
  • My 2000 OB driver window packed up. A new motor was about $360 so I got a used one. After replacement, a tricky, PITA process which requires removal of the window glass, I dissected the dead motor and found a broken connection to one of the motor brushes (poor manufacturing). A 10c part probably, but unobtainable. I soldered it and now have a spare motor. The motor itself and the gears seem robust. So you may have the same issue or it may be a faulty switch or connection between the switch and the motor.
  • I had the same experience on my 2000 Outback Ltd. - I hope my findings are not yours....water sloshing when I first startup and drive was ultimately an internally leaking head gasket, please let me explain....
    Coolant leaks through head gasket (primarily at cyl. 4)
    Air from cylinder exchanges and becomes trapped at highest point in heater core.
    When you first drive the vehicle T-stat opens and forces coolant through the heater core causing a cavitation sound that you just know is water on the roof (I know this is bizarre)
    This is the QUICK CHECK, with engine cool, radiator cap off, start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature, when it heats up enough, the Thermostat will open, if it is this head gasket you will see air bubbles one after the other come the surface.
    This is another QUICK CHECK, pull the cap off of the coolant overflow container when HOT and watch for air bubbles coming from the tube in bottom.

    This problem gets worse.....Check Engine light will eventually show a misfire because when your parked the cylinder fills with coolant, rough idle for a few seconds just after start - or O2 sensor failure because this misfire causes o2 levels to become out of spec.
    please let me know if your problem is resolved..
    Again, I hope this is not it, but if you would like to know how that I went Round and Round with Subaru and this problem Email
  • "The drains aren't in the rear bumper. They would be behind the front wheels. The drains generally go down the A-pillar forward."

    The sunroof gutter has a drain tube at each corner. The rear corner drain tubes go the the rear. If water is heard sloshing in the sunroof system when the car first moves after a heavy rain, it would be water in the gutter. The fact that the water has not entered the interior, and has been seen dripping from under the rear of the car, indicates that the water has gone down at least the rear tubes, and no doubt the front tubes, too.
  • I'm interested in how you made out getting the head gasket repaired. My 2001 Outback is in the shop now for the same problem. I'm wondering if now's the time to look for another car, or if this will be the worst of it. Once a mecahnic drops an engine, it's usually all down hill from there.
  • I'm interested in how anyone made out getting the head gasket repaired. My 2001 Outback is in the shop now for the coolant leak, engine misfires and rough idling. I'm wondering if now's the time to look for another car, or if this will be the worst of it.
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,386
    The head gaskets on my 2001 Legacy were changed in Feb 2006 at ~110k miles. It's been fine since.

    I still liked the car and it's cheaper to repair than to pay 10x more for a new car.

    Even though I've had more problems with my Subie than other cars, Subaru would still be high on my list when replacement time comes.

    My $0.02.

  • The last week or so in my 2005 Outback 3.0, I've heard 'water rushing' sounds coming from somewhere up front. Almost as if water is rushing & sloshing on the other side of the steering wheel. I don't know if it's coincidence or not, but I hear it more when I turn the wheel to pull out of my parking space. However several minutes into my morning commute, it's gone.

    Does this sound like a serious issue? Other than that, there is nothing wrong that I can tell.
  • Check your coolant a lot of times I have heard this in vehicals with low coolant. Its from air getting into the heater core I believe.
  • I have not had head gasket issues yet (knock on wood)but saw the dealer put some of this additive in a subaru and the stopped leaking almost immeadatly. I probably would have never believed it being a heavy truck mechanic my self had I not seen it with my oun eyes. I would see if someone would ship you some from the states. Or buy some over the internet.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,000
    Yep, that is exactly what plim77 is hearing. Likely not an issue, but it does indicate there is air in the system. Top off your coolant in the radiator and fill to the proper level in the overflow tank, then wait a couple days to see if this takes care of it.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Also you might want to have your system drained/filled/flushed if it has 50k miles or more.

  • I was planning to replace the rear break pads and rotors thinking the chirping/squealing noise I heard was the break wear indicator. After taking things apart it turns out the pads are not totaly worn down, and while turning the hubs by hand I get a grating/scraping noise on both wheels. I have had problems before with rust expansion causing rubbing while turning. The dealer mechanic cleaned it up a bit and it went away more or less a few years ago.

    Car has 140k miles and I am thinking wheel bearings are bad. My questions are: 1, would turning the hubs by hand give an audible indication of a wheel bearing problem at such a slow speed with no load, and 2, do I need any special tools to replace them myself, what exactly needs to be done and is it a particularly difficult job?

    Dealer prices in the past have been rather expensive so I thought I might do it myself.

    All the axel boots look good by the way.

    Thanks for the help,
  • Went to the dealer. Master tech said without hesitation it was the viscous coupler going. This is in the rear part of the front transfer case. repair $1500. I am debating trying it myself, but getting into transmissions ia tricky business. Maybe time to get rid of it. Can't say I am happy with the Subaru. In 9 years I have put it over $7000 in repairs, with another $3000 looking at me. And I do a lot myself. Thanks for the help.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sorry to hear it.

    I had the opposite experience with my Forester, 9 years no problems. I saved up enough to pay cash for its replacement.
  • I just bought a 2008 Legacy Sedan and I love except for one problem - on the highway the car tends to sort of float around - almost as if it was being pushed around by the wind. Anyone have any ideas as to what it might be?

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Start with the obvious stuff - are tire pressures even? What psi?

    You might have one bad shock, is my guess.
  • If your tire inflation pressures are OK, you should check your wheel alignment on both the front and rear wheels.
  • You should make sure that the wheel bearings are the problem because their replacement is much more involved than in vehicles which have solid rear axles. Unless you have the skills and equipment to do everything yourself, you will need to disconnect the rear axle half shafts, remove the hub assemblies from the car and take them to a Subaru or drive line shop to have new bears and seals installed.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Turning by hand won't indicate a bad bearing. The sound is more of a whirring when driving than a scraping. My thought is that it's the rear calipers sticking.

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