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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Turning by hand won't indicate a bad bearing.

    Unless it is really bad! I have had a couple bearings (not on Subaru) that I could tell were bad by turning the wheel by hand, but that action was not necessary to make the determination! One revolution of the tire on the road cleared up any doubt! :blush:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Haa yeah like the time we were racing and the wheel almost came off!

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    I saw something similar to that happen once as a teen while coming off the Muldoon exit on the Glenn Highway. It is a long, steep, and tight right-turning incline off the highway. There was an old, beat up Nissan Z-car (I think) in front of us. As both vehicles negotiated the ramp, I saw the right rear wheel start slowly moving away from the body of the car.

    I told my grandmother, who was driving, to watch out because the wheel was coming off! She did not notice it at first and told me I was crazy, but by the time we crested the top of the ramp, the wheel was about 2+ feet out the side of the car (clearly coming out with axle attached, at this point!). Then the car finally dropped to the ground, sparks flew, and it skidded to a stop. Rather than stopping to help, my grandmother drove around and kept going, citing the "questionable appearance" of the car.

    That was a pretty crazy thing to see.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    I would appreciate anyone sharing the procedure for adjusting the parking brake on a 2006 Outback 2.5i with automatic transmission. Thanks.
  • Did the tech say it was torque-bind?? Subaru use transaxles..NOT transmissions. When the fluid gets old, tarnish builds up on the clutches. An easy, less than $10 fix...put in some limited slip additive, about 4oz. It the stuff American cars use in posi or limited-slip rear ends. Remember its the dipstick on the drivers side near the firewall. I've used it on 2 older Subies already. It then takes about 100-200 miles to work the magic. I would also recommend a transaxle FLUSH. About $100, to replace old fluid. The new fluid should have a limited-slip additive, ask to be sure. Have fun...good luck.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I've run AT subies for years, including racing them and NEVER have I put in LSD fluid. I would suggest a good drain/fill with Redline High-temp ATF. It kept my SVX in good shape for about 140k miles.

  • billj3billj3 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the advice. It turns out that the wheel hub assembly was rubbing on the spring which keeps the parking break assembly in tension against the adjuster. Seems to me the spring should be behind the adjuster not in front of it. So I moved it there and the noise is gone. Took about 5 min to do once I saw what was necessary. Pads and rotors had little wear and rust does not seem to be much of an issue. Perhaps the dealer put it on wrong during one of my $1000 break jobs.

    I have a decent set of tools and reasonable mechanical skills, but no specialty tools and have not worked on cars since I was a kid, but thinking of doing so based on the cost and quality of service I get at the dealer.

    Thanks again,
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    1000 brake job? Jeeze, I charge less for a super-hi performance brake job for Subarus!

  • billj3billj3 Posts: 7
    And I bet you put the springs on right too.

  • moomarmoomar Posts: 1
    Hi I am having sort of the same problem did you find a cure
  • I recently tried to replace a factory radio with a VR3. The VR3 radio has only one illumination wire but there is a positive wire and a negative wire from the factory. If I only hook up the positive the stereo works fine but I have no speedometer/tachometer lights... unless i blew a fuse somewhere? Anyone know anything about this "illumination" hook up... i'm not much of an electrician.
  • paulmanpaulman Posts: 10
    I spent a good bit of time on the net trying to find replacement carpet. No luck, even w/ JC Whitney. Any ideas where to go for this?

  • My 99 Outback isn't starting when it is raining out. I am not getting fuel to the engine, it sounds like it is out of gas. I just replaced the fuel filter, am getting fuel pressure out of the filter towards the engine, but it still just turns over. Happened once before 2 weeks ago (also when it was raining), replaced the fuel pump and it's been driving fine until today. I have 156k with about 1200mi a month. I don't know what to do next. I'm thinking something in the injectors, but I find it doubtful that all 4 would go at once. A relay control for all the injectors, maybe? Corroded or damaged conductor somewhere that gets grounded with moisture? I've ONLY experienced this in the rain. Any help?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hmm seems more like a spark issue than an injector issue. Do you have a CEL? If the injectors aren't working then the CEL should tell you that pretty quickly.

  • Occasionally (a few times per month) , esp in wet weather, my 96 Legacy would crank & crank.... then start after a few/many minutes... Changed the camshaft position sensor & it got better (less frequent) changed the crankshaft position sensor as well & no further problems...
  • The water is actually draining in the front, on the left hand side. Is this a problem that I need to fix, or is this normal? I don't have any water coming in the car, but it does seem a bit strange to have water in the roof. If the drains are blocked how do I unblock them?

    The dealer is not very helpful, they just say that it is going to cost a lot to solve the problem, but refuse to give me a price. Do you know exactly where the drain is?

  • check the coil tower where your spark plugs plug into it sounds like it is shorting. another thing to try is pour water on that "tower" (i can't think of the correct name for it.) when the car is running in the dark it will look like a thunder storm. It may be bad wires also. pull all your wires off that "tower" one at a time and see if it is green or corroded. Be carefull it is not fun getting shocked.
  • Have a 96 Legacy Wagon (2.2)in the family since new. I have always used the Subaru (aka Purolator)white oil filter AA060 (that is what Parts Dept always gave me and I've used it for years). I ran out of my supply. Went to get some and they told me that they don't use AA060 anymore, and gave me the 'newer' AA100 (very small, black, expensive, Tokyo Roki). Is this true that they dont use AA060 anymore?
    [Or did this dealer just want to move the expensive filters off his shelf and I got 'Tokyo Rooked'?]
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    They have switched to the smaller filters, however you don't need to buy expensive ones.

    They did this due to the proximity to the headers, especially on the turbo cars could cook the oil in the filter.

  • I have a problem with the first start up of the day. While backing out my long driveway, the engine revs too fast.. up to 3500 rpms. This is an ongoing problem since I bought the car, new, over a year ago. I have had it to the dealer twice, and I am told they cannot duplicate the problem. They also said it is normal and nothing is wrong. I should let the car run for a few minutes before I drive it,"so it can run through it's sequence". It seems dangerous to me, to have the engine revving so fast while I'm trying to back out.
    This is my fourth Subaru, and I have never had this problem before. Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions?
    Thanks, Misty
  • Transmission problem, I would guess.... ever go forward on first start?

    I had an old toyota crown where the automatic transmission "slipped" on first starting of theday, either direction, till it got going in 20 sec.... I figured a bad check valve in there somewhere.... May not be worth fixing though.
  • Our '05 Legacy wagon 5spd idles up in reverse or even in neutral backing out of our driveway. I think it does that to get the catalytic converters fired off, and also to get vacuum for the power brakes.
    I haven't noticed it when going forward.
  • 03 Outback Wagon, 5 spd, 160000 loved-for miles...
    Recently felt vibration that was unfamiliar, occuring usually early in the am, after about a 2 mile drive, a quick stop for coffee, then about a mile down the road it starts...just an odd, noticeable but not head-rattling, shimmy or shake as i'm accelerating in the 3rd-4th gear, 35-45 mph region...and it doesn't last long. Had my mechanic ride in it once when it was happening, and he felt it, and thought it might be drive train related. Bad u joints perhaps. But today, when he had it, he couldn't get it to do it again, and he couldn't find anything wrong underneath. He was kinda miffed, as am I.
    Any thoughts?
    Oh, also have had the viscous coupling replaced about a year ago, fyi. It's aligned, tires are even and balanced, and we're confused.
    thanks for any help
  • iomaticiomatic Posts: 48
    I need to replace the brake pads on our '01 Outback. Any brand recommendations and torque specs, a DIY perhaps?

    They don't feel as grippy, but I'm not sure I want to try and do (or know how to check on) the brake fluid.

    Other Subaru extensive forums?

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hawk HPs pads and flush the fluid, should be flushed every 2 years no matter how many miles.

    Relatively easy DIY, shoot me your make, model, build date, etc and I can get you part numbers via e-mail if you want.

  • hamezhamez Posts: 8
    I also have a similar problem. I own a 06 OB XT. From the first day it has rev'd high on the first start of the day. I either have to let it run for a couple of minutes, or feather the accelerator a little to knock down the rpm's. Have talked to the dealer they are clueless. It only happens first start of the day or when the car has been off for several hours. Have learned to live with it.
  • iomaticiomatic Posts: 48
    Just an '01 (legacy? it's not the impreza) Outback wagon.

    thanks a million.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yes, the build date is important, some years they changed them mid-year. So shoot me an e-mail and we'll hook yah up with the proper part #s.

  • Update - not surprisingly, the fix didn't work. Two different independent mechanics recommend a new short block - saying that it's likely a cracked cylinder. Not sure I want to put the money down to repair or towards a new car.
  • I own a 99 outback which was purchased new, that so far, has been a terrific car...125,000 miles and going great. I am a newly single female, just recently going through a divorce, and after many years, find myself having to manage car issues, about which I know very little. So far all the basic maintenance has been done, but in the past few months I've noticed what I can only describe as a whine coming from the engine compartment. It is not an overwhelming sound, but it is something new that I have not heard before. The whine becomes very noticeable when I plug in an ipod and tune it to a non broadcast station, where the whine actually comes through the radio. If there is no music playing on the ipod the whine is quite loud. When I accelerate, the whine gets louder. My concern is that something is getting ready to give and I will end up stranded on the road somewhere this winter. Aside from the inconvenience, I have a 12 year old daughter who would be left alone if I can't get home to her. I know this may not sound like much of a problem, but I very much want to be proactive and keep myself from ending up in a bad situation. Does anyone have any thoughts about what's up? Maybe the water pump or a belt? Thanks for any input. Jan
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