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Electronic Gremlins - Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy



  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Also, check to see that even though the doors are closed all the way one of them hasn't developed enough play in the latch to open slightly when going over bumps.
  • pamt523pamt523 Posts: 5
    Not sure if this falls under electrical, but this is an intermittent problem when I can't turn the key past acc. Engine turns off, but I have to wait sometimes a few seconds to a couple minutes. I hear some clicking so I know I can remove the key and hear a little motor running sound. I've had this to the dealer twice and they don't have a clue. Getting ready for round 3 with the dealer. Any ideas would be most appreciated. 2008 Equinox - 43000 miles.
    Thank you
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    No expert on this car, but sure sounds like there is an electric solnoid in there that has to move a lever or something and it isn't electrically or mechanically working well.

    If so, a dealer should really be able to fix this problem. Don't know why they should need serveral tries, unless they are unable to replicate the problem while they have the car, and so aren't doing anything with it....
  • I have several electrical problems with my van. I am wondering if, somehow, the problems all lead to the same bad part, etc. The problems don't appear to be linked to the same fuses. Is there something I could check that would affect all of these things, without disabling the van?

    gas gauge - mostly stays on full, but sometimes dips down to empty, even when tank is full
    door locks - they work, sometimes
    heater - fan blows, heat comes out, sometimes, usually cool air
    low coolant warning light - comes on, goes off, comes on, goes off, even when coolant full
    little symbol that indicates electrical problems usually on, occasionally goes off

    any ideas?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I doubt if one thing is causing this many widely varied problems.
    gas guage - probably a bad sending unit in the gas tank
    door locks - you didn't say if it's the door switch, remote, or auto locking, but I assume it's the door switch, which is probably dirty and carbonized from use
    heater - could be many things, clogged core, faulty control, temp sensor, loss of vacuum control
    low coolant light - probably the float sensor in the resivoir tank
    little symbol - do you mean the service engine soon or check engine light?
    Remember these are just guesses, and it's 11 years old. These niggling little problems can be expected.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Could be a bad ground connection someplace.

    A loose, broken, or high-resistance ground connection could allow sneak paths for current through other circuits, that can raise havoc with indicator lights, gauges, and sensors.
  • Have a 2001 S-10 & was told that the manual says to turn off the DRLs to push the dome override button. Problem now is that after initial warning bells stop I have the DRLs on but no tail/ license/ turn/ brake lights out back. Next I can hit the "DO" button again & now the DRLs are off, no headlights either, and the lights out back are now on, dimmly!! Any input is greatly appreciated!!! THANX,
  • hi there having troubles with my 93 dodge cummins. have no power getting to my fuse box that runs my park lights and dash lights, could it be a relay im missing ? everything else works great just no marker/park lights and dash lights. ran power to output of fuse side and dash lights came on so its before the fuse box somewhere
  • So im new to all this and I have a problem with my car, I've got a 2005 Toyota corolla sport. I just installed a new headunit, 1200 watt max output amp and 2 12 inch subs, and I did everything thing like I've done before but this time my front right headlight (if your looking at the car) was not working. I hooked everything up by the book. Tomorrow morning I'm going to see if the headlight just burnt out. But if it's not that what could I have done?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Where did you take off the +12V for the head unit? At the fuse box? If so, that's where I would look.
  • No I just bought a wiring harness, I also grounded the head unit to the wiring harness in stead of to the body of the car. Could that have something to do with it?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    It's possible. Check the bulb first though in case it's coincidence.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I agree, check the bulb first, or just buy a replacement and try it.

    If the bulb checks out OK or the replacement doesn't work, disconnect the head unit (unplug it at the harness connector) and see what happens.

    Also, check your fuses in the fuse box.
  • The radiator fans & a/c compressor stopped working the other day. The fuses, relays and grounds all check out. There is no loss of freon. When you select a/c on the control-head, the indicator lights but compressor does not engage. The radiator cooling fans do not come on at all. The engine almost overheated in rush-hour traffic. I can't drive this car until I resolve the cooling issue. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,338
    which fuse block are you looking at? The ones controlling your problems are underhood, not in the passenger compartment. There's a 10 amp marked "37" that controls the AC compressor AND the Body Control Manual---so that's one suspect.

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  • The fuses that I checked were the ones under the hood. I suspect the BCM is faulty because the Theft System indicator has been on constantly for the past year. Do you have any idea how much a BCM will cost to replace? I need to get this car back on the road.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,338
    Well the retail on the part is about $250 bucks, with a little bit of labor to R&R, and then it has to be programmed properly with the scan tool.

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  • Approximately six months ago, I noticed that once my car started and the running lights were on, when I turned on the heater or defroster inside the car the running lights would go off. If I shut off the heater the lights came back on. This went on for the past 4 months until finally the defroster, heater, fan,the front seat heater, and air-conditioner don't work, the interior clock does not display the time and I have been reading the forum posted here on the Grand Prix problems. Has anyone reached a reason for these issues? I need to get it fixed, but I don't want to spend a fortune for a local mechanic to try this and that. The car runs well otherwise, can anyone help me and let me know what the best fix for this problem is?
  • dfkcks913dfkcks913 Posts: 1
    So I am having a problem with the cassette tape adapter, I use a cassette tape that allows you to hook up your iPod to a wire that is connected to it, for some reason, when I put the cassette in, it makes a sound like its searching for something (rewinding, forwarding) and plays the iPod for 1 sec. And then automatically ejects it. I am tired of this!! If ANYONE can help, please help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,338
    The cassette itself is probably defective. Try another adapter.

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  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    The sprockets in the tape player need to be able to turn freely. If they don't, then the player thinks it's at the end of the tape and tries to reverse it or eject the cassette.

    Might want to check that the "fake" tape reels in the adapter turn freely. If they don't, then that's probably your problem.

    Like Shifty said, that would be a defective adapter.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,338
    sometimes you can open the cassette up, if it has screws, and carefully flip over the lubricating sheet that the rollers spin on--that might make them run smoother..using any kind of lube is tricky and would have to be some kind of very light grease applied in tiny tiny amounts to the wheels---a last ditch thing.

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  • On a recent trip, my Edge with 16000 miles on it just stalled and started running rough at low idle with no throttle response.....several times at 70 mph in heavy traffic. It would occur usually after at least 3 hrs. of driving and would temporarily go away upon stopping the car and shutting off the engine. This is intolerable due to the obvious safety issues which almost resulted in a rear end collision. I discovered via I pad research that many other edges were reporting similar issues which is the only way I knew to stop and get the car running again 2000 miles from home. As true to the other reports the dealer could find no codes to indicate a problem, but due to the overwhelming anecdotal evidence I supplied them and with the cooperation of the regional rep. they agreed to put a new throttle body into ......more to come. MKS
  • fiordifiordi Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    I have 2000 Subaru Legacy GT limited w/140K miles on it. About every 20th time I go to start it, the car will not start- as in the starter doesn't turn over at all. I've had the battery checked and even replaced it on speculation, but that's not it. All the accessories work fine when I have the problem and the guy at auto zone says the battery has a full charge.

    The weird part is this- when I run into this situation I can turn the key back and forth rapidly from the OFF position to the START position, back and forth and sometimes this will get the car to start. Other times though this has no effect (its about a 50/50 split). If I can't get the car to start using the rapid and repeated key turning move, all I have to do to get the car to start is let it sit for ~20 minutes. When I wait 20 minutes, the car starts up, first turn of the key, no problem. WTF?!?!

    The one caveat I would add is that I did replace the starter with a refurbished cheap-o unit about 1.5 years ago, but the starting problem started only about 6 months ago.

    Any ideas?? Could it be some sort of computer chip with a timer in it or something? Is the ignition switch bad? What do you think? and how can i best diagnose what it going on?

    Thanks in advance,
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Probably the best way to find out would be to put a voltmeter on the starter solenoid when the problem occurs. If the solenoid is getting voltage when the key is turned to start then it's not on the ignition switch side. If the solenoid is getting voltage and the starter doesn't engage then the problem lies in the starter.
  • I own a '90 Justy ECVT 4x4.After replacing the combination switch(headlamp switch)and ignition switch,the taillight,parking lights and license plate lights stay on when ignition key is turned off.
  • I have a 2005 Cobalt. I havent had my car for about 6 months now has been to many different places to get fixed about 5 actually. My cobalt is literally haywire. Ive checked the wiring, transmission, engine name it ive probably had it checked.
    My engine light and sercurity light are on. When Im driving (when I can) the gears are rough trying to change. (feels more like Im driving a manual) I had just filled my tank up and it said low fuel. Some times it will start sometimes it wont. One time it started and the key wasnt even in it (and Ive already changed the ignition 2 times) Someone told me it could be upper transmission module with the "communication penns" but no one seems to have those tools. Sometimes my car says power steering but it works and when it doesnt say power steering the steering doesnt work. My hazard lights will go crazy the headlights pretty much anything with what might seem like wiring will go haywire and Ive had all wiring checked. When its in park or at a stop light its making a weird clicking sound by the gears. If Anyone has a new idea as to what this could be please let me know besides getting a new car. I havent had a car now for 6 months and kinda becoming a pain.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,643
    Most of the things listed are electrical, and 'stuff' on today's vehicles can be pretty sensitive to voltage irregularities. Might be worth while checking battery/charging system.
  • gin10gin10 Posts: 1
    I own a 2008 cobalt and it is doing the same thing. My security light will come on randomly then dash reads low fuel, power steering, engine light comes on. When I come to a red light and then start to take off car bucks (jumps) into gear. Also when it going haywire and I put it into reverse then drive car jumps into gear. I have had the batter checked and replaced but car is still doing the same. Had my auto repair guy put it on the monitor and the read out said all 5 computers were bad, (mechanic said this is highly unlikely all five would be bad at the same time) but once monitor was discounted from my vehicle it reset itself and is running fine for now, however it will happen again. I have been dealing with this problem for over 8 months now. Any help out there would be greatly appreciated. I only have 35,000 miles on my car.
  • reg21reg21 Posts: 2
    I have a1994 chevy s10 blazer electal all good but will not start fuel pump is new what can i do
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