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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair



  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    can eventually begin to make a grinding noise if it's allowed to go long enough. It will do that even on acceleration.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    When they had the front end apart to change the wheel bearings on my new 2004 ECHO, I saw the brake pads were pretty shot. Today I changed the drivers side brake pads. Guess what? You may know the piston side pad has a metal spring on it. This serves to rub against the rotor when the pad is nearly worn out simulating the screech of metal pad on rotor. Well....the pad thickess on the piston pad was THICKER than the non piston side was! Which means the one pad will wear out and make metal to metal contact with the rotor BEFORE the spring on the other pad has a chance to warn of wornout pads! There was about .125 inch of pad on the piston side and .070 inch on the non piston side.
  • goetchgoetch Posts: 2
    Help Please I have had this problem for 3 years now. After driving for a while the speedometer starts to go crazy (up and down or just goes to 0 while driving) After this happens the car sometimes (not all the time) looses power or just won't go anymore. This has been an on going problem, the thing is the car can run great for months then I get this problem for a few weeks then I can run great again so on and so forth. The dealerships has been a nightmare, I paid them and they replaced some sensor 3 years ago, bring it back they tell my wife she went through a puddle and got her sensors all wet the dried em off and charged me. I complain to toyota cause the next day we break down. Go back to the dealer ship they tell me the transmission fluid smells burnt, I smell it it does not. I take it to a local mechanic he can't seem to find anything wrong. The codes that come up say speed sensor and general transmission failure, yet the dealership told me its the the speed sensor or anything else they told me to flush the fluid and maybe it will be ok.... Can anyone help me ????
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    What are the codes? I assume the check llight is on?
  • goetchgoetch Posts: 2
    The codes were for 2 sensors and a general transmission failure.... I think it was the speed sensor and one other sensor ... .. I 'll have to locate the slip from the last time I went to the shop.... But the dealership said that its not the sensor it has to be the transmission. Could it be a sensor and not the transmission? The dealership didn't want to change the sensor because I said I wasn't going to pay if it didn't fix the problem.....
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    The fact that the trans works properly at times woud be a powerfull arguement that its a sensor issue. Could you get the sensors from a junkyard?
  • 205,000 mi, new radiator Feb 2008 after collision with coyote.

    About 4 months ago... red engine light on, radiator leaking coolant, took to mechanic. He found radiator half full, but fill reservoir full. Radiator pressure tested, no problems. Mechanic could not find leak again after running, returned car.

    Car ran fine for a few months; last 7 days, I've noticed small coolant leaks under car, I topped it off the radiator this morning, fill reservoir read full. Then today the car overheats again after 100 mi drive, spewing coolant from somewhere near bottom of radiator - definitely not the cap or the fill reservoir cap. But the fill reservoir level had actually gone up, so it's apparently not feeding the radiator. I've been carrying coolant in trunk, so I added about 1/2 gallon to radiator and drove home.

    What's causing this? My brother seems to think the thermostat (coolant temp sensor?) contacts may be sticking and causing continuous coolant flow - - which (for some reason?) then causes a coolant relief valve to open and release the coolant. But I really don't understand that and have no clue. I'm not sure I want to return it to the mechanic and am willing to try minor repairs on my own - pretty sure I can handle a thermostat or something similar.

    Thanks for any advice you can give.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Were the hoses changed when the radiator was?
  • Thanks for the response. I don't know. There's nothing on the old invoice about hoses. The radiator replacement was done by a body repair shop. The mechanic I just took it to for this said he'd inspected and pressurized the whole thing and found no problems. And indeed it ran fine for quite some time. He also said the thermostat appeared to be functioning properly at that time - of course the car wasn't leaking at that time either.

    Today after the overheating, I peeked around and saw nothing leaking from the top, just some substantial oozing of coolant from the very bottom, underneath the radiator, and onto the plastic cover below it.

    Thanks again.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    With the engine cold start it up and wiggle/pull on all the hoses to see if you can make them leak. It helps to have one person pulling and another looking. Obviously you have to stop when the engine gets hot, but you can let it cool down and repeat this several times.
    You can get a can of "stop leak" in a car parts store and add it to the raditor (follow dorections on the package). That might fix things for a while if the leaks are small...
  • Thanks, I'll give that a try in the morning, maybe the mech missed something.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    because if this thing is REALLY leaking from the radiator or a hose, a competent pressure test would have found the leak in two minutes flat. Those pressure testers exert much more force on the system than its standard operating pressure is, enough so that many dealers won't even use them any more for fear of causing damage to the system.

    I suppose there's no question of a leaking head gasket or cracked head from the previous overheat? Because that would explain half-full radiators and oozing coolant. A mechanic could perform a gas test on the coolant to determine this.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • zepjunkiezepjunkie Posts: 4
    Thanks much for the help. I was able to locate a leak at the bottom of the radiator so took it into the shop again - apparently the aftermarket radiator I was fitted with last year didn't fit so well and friction created a hole in it, just a month after the warranty expired of course. But she's back on the road again.

    No explanation for the fact that the leak stopped after the first leak incident.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
  • mnmanmnman Posts: 35
    Het Kneisl1, did you ever get that bolt to loosen? I had problems w/mine too, I think it's what we call a sex-bolt in the facilities maintenance trade. the right side as you are looking at the front of the car has a hole in it, spray some penetrating oil in it and let it sit awhile. I took the grill and the shroud left of the radiator out to make it easier to get a longer wrench on the 14mm bolt. It finally gave up the fight and I got a new belt on, with 112000 miles on the original!!

    I have a copy of the factory manual on my laptop for the first generation Echo, I think it goes to '03? I could try and send a copy if you need it, I can't recall who was looking for it. Ebay is a good source of course.

    Has anybody changed their wiper control for one that has intermittant?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    No I never did the bolt. I traded the car in on a Yaris.
    Yes Ive done the switch replacement its easy. Search ECHO forum here (dont think its under manitenance) Call this junkyard number they probably have the switch you need. 800 765 7100. Mine was from a 2006 Corolla (variable intermittent) Also RAV4 switches work.
  • dakedake Posts: 131
    Yeah, it's in the Regular Echo Thread Here

    It's an easy swap and any wiper stalk from any Toyota of the same general vintage should work - I took one out of a Matrix b/c that's all I could find at the junk yard.
  • ChazzleeChazzlee Posts: 6
    Suddenly my right rear directional signal on my '03 Echo won't work. It's not the bulb 'cause I replaced it! And it's not the snap-in socket either because both the old and new bulbs and the socket work fine in the left side. I also moved the working left side bulb and socket over to the right side, and they won't work there either!?!

    Could it be a fuse? For only one rear turn signal not working? -I sorta doubt it but will try checking them anyway... Anyone have any clues or experience with this? Is it maybe something in the wiring?
  • ChazzleeChazzlee Posts: 6
    Never mind... :D
    Found the problem. -The main right side stoplight bulb was loose, and this prevented the signal light from working! Soon's I tightened up the stoplight socket, the directional started blinking again. They must be connected in series..!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Hmm that was good of you to point out1
  • rozmanrozman Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 Echo with 215,000 miles on it. It has to crank for a while to start. When it does start, the acceleration is lacking. If I put the pedal to the floor it doesn't do anything. Just sits there. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks ,
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Check the wires in the mass air flow sensor. They might be gunked up/broken. The MAS is bolted to the sir cleaner with two philip screws. Just take it out and look in the part that was in the aircleaner. There are very fine wires you can CAREFULLY clean with a q tip soaked in carb cleaner.
  • rozmanrozman Posts: 7
    I tried to clean the sensor. It's still is the same. I have the hood open and hit the accelerator and it bogs down. This car still gets 33-35 MPG. This prob just started. I love the car. I am the orig. owner. Could it be a fuel prob? ie, filter or injector.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Is the check engine light on?
  • rozmanrozman Posts: 7
    no, car never gave a prob until now. Just gave routine care.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    If the fuel fiter hasn't been changed in the last 60,000 miles; I'd definitely replace it. The symptoms you describe sound just like a clogged fuel filter. If it was a clogged injector; the idle quality would have been disturbed.

    The other possibility is that the spark plugs need replacement. For best performance in this motor; I would recommend one of the following three plugs:

    The least expensive would be a Bosch Super Plus # 7957. This is a new part number, which is still not in stock at many stores; but it is now in the warehouses, so most stores which sell Bosch can special order it, and receive it within a day or so.

    I would NOT recommend the old Bosch Super number for this application; but another Bosch plug that would be a good choice is the Bosch Platinum/IR Fusion # 4501.

    The third recommended alternative would be an Autolite Iridium # XP3924.

    The gaps on these particular plugs should not be adjusted. Fortunately, they are right for your engine as they come.
  • jennyj1jennyj1 Posts: 2
    have a 2003 echo with 112,000 miles on it. AC blows cool or coolish air for about 5 or 10 minutes, then blows hot air. i turn the AC off and 30 minutes later it may blow cool air again, but very briefly. i have not done the full diagnostic test yet with the dye to check for leaks. the guy at the dealership told me he thinks it is the fan motor that has to be replaced, but it was an unpaid diagnosis (long story) so they didn't evacuate the system and do the dye check, but the air blows fine, full blast it is just not cold air...wondering about others' experience with AC problems on the echo, and any suggestions on what to do? i would like to get it fixed but i want to make sure that it is something that can be fixed, i don't want to spend a chunk of cash and have the thing still blowing out this hot air in the middle of a new jersey july
  • rozmanrozman Posts: 7
    is the compressor clicking on and off when it is blowing hot air? Put it on defrost and cold and see if it does the same thing.
  • joecho1joecho1 Posts: 2
    Yesterday I turned on my car and both turn signals, the speedometer, fuel gauge, and air system would not turn on. I have checked the fuses and they seem to be fine. Has anyone had any similar issues? The horn and headlights work fine though.
  • rozmanrozman Posts: 7
    Thanks for all the help I received. It ended up being a vac. leak
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