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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair



  • butler83butler83 Posts: 14
    All - Thanks for the tips the last 2.5 years.
    A drunk totaled my 2001 Echo with 70,000 miles on it. She ran like a top and will be missed.
    On the goods side the car was parked when hit so there were no injuries.

    I am looking at a 2007 Yaris Hatchback - 25k miles for $9000 from a private party. I think the price is to high, but what do you think and I will post this on the Yaris board also.

    Thanks and good luck all.
  • dbdbechodbdbecho Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 Echo, and I apparently need a new mass air flow sensor, because my check engine light came on and I get a P0171 error.

    But that isn't what this question is about. When I was looking under the hood, I noticed that an electrical connector to a sensor directly above the alternator was broken off. The sensor is a brass colored cylindrical shape that protrudes about 2" from the engine block, is about 1" in diameter and is about 1" above the alternator. The wiring harness has a branch that plugs into the sensor at this point.

    Unfortunately, the plastic connector that sticks out from this sensor has snapped off, leaving whatever this thing is unconnected. The engine still seems to run fine without it. BTW, the sensor plug has two prongs.

    What is this thing (sensor?), and how do I replace it? Is this a major job? Any ideas???
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    edited April 2011
    the MAF is held on by two philips screws to the front of the aircleaner. It is easy to change. Look inside at the two fine wires. If they are cruddy they can be cleaner with brake fluid. DONT touch them or you will break the wires and destroy the MAF.

    Also that code can indicate loose vacuum lines. You should check that.

    Tell us what happens!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Check your CV joint boots. Possibly a joint boot is torn or the joint is faulty.

    The wheel bearing can make noise even if turning smoothly.

    Tell us if you fix it and what it was!
  • dbdbechodbdbecho Posts: 4
    Great, thank you, kneisl! I have located the MAF over the air filter, and will clean it carefully, and check for vacuum lines as well.

    Do you have any idea what my broken connector is, that plugs in over the alternator? That is the big question in my post. Thanks!
  • typentypen Posts: 7
    HI, i broke the same connector above the alternator, it's the variable timing cam control, i broke it adjusting the tension for alternator belt i would do that again. maybe others can confirm the exact name for the part, it can't be fixed only replaced.
  • dbdbechodbdbecho Posts: 4
    Typen, thanks, that's exactly what I needed to know! Do you know how the old one comes out? Does it just pull out?
  • dbdbechodbdbecho Posts: 4
    I've found out the exact name of the part sticking out of the engine block right above the alternator. It is called the "Variable Camshaft Timing Oil Control Valve." I haven't been able to locate the part on NAPA, AutoZone, or O'Reilly's web sites. I guess I'll have to call the Toyota dealership tomorrow & find out how much it costs.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Do tell what you find out especially if you replace it yourself!
  • echo2003echo2003 Posts: 4
    edited April 2011
    Okay, I have an '03 automatic, 2-door Echo at ~55K miles (yeah, low :))

    1) Doing city driving (involves some hills), I typically used to get 280 miles before the last fuel marker started blinking (i.e., ~ 28 mpg). Lately (the last 6-8 months), my mpg is lower (~25-26 mph). I was thinking that this might be attributable to Winter temps...but it isn't. One thing I did do was change tires (to Pirelli P4 Four Seasons). For the record, I do oil change every 6 months, which based on my low mileage, is probably overkill. Alternatively, I am due for the 60K maintenance soon, which may be a bit late, considering it's an '03. So any ideas about low mpg, or maintenance?

    2) I get this NOISE that seems to be coming from under the (right side/middle) of my dash. It only happens when I am in reverse and not moving. It's a rattling, vibration-type noise, and it's getting louder over time.

    3) My driver-side seatbelt tension is insufficient now to roll itself back up. A dealer suggested that it might be twisted there an easy way to check this?

    Okay, thanks a million, people! :)
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    The noise you describe is exactly the same thing in the Yaris. It is a shifter cable rattling against something. It doesnt mean anything but if you can locate the cable and secure it from whatever is in contact with it that will stop the rattle.

    The oil change interval is 4 months so you are NOT overchanging it. Especially if you drive a lot of short distances.

    I would guess your decreasing mileage is due to winter blend/alcohol in the gas. Im seeing decreasing mileage in my Yaris also. We are paying MORE for gas due to alcohol and getting LESS mpg. :mad: How is your tire prsssure?

    IS the seatbelt retractor beinds the plastic of the trim? I cant remember and dont drive an ECHO now.

    Good luck!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    My sons 2000 ECHO threw a PO171 code. Could be MAF or a vacuum leak. We had previously cleaned the MAF without luck. Today we looked hard for a vacuum leak. Didnt find it. So we went and priced a MAF. $109 rebuilt. I asked were the MAF of a 2000 ECHO and a 2009 Yaris the same? There are! So we cleared his code and put hisn in myin and myin in hisn. After an hour his had no code. Mine had a PO 101 "pending" which is specific bad MAF. Whasat "pending" mean? And is an hour long enough to definately throw or not throw a code? Could it take longer? And what does it mean "rebuilt" MAF?

  • sodadoodsodadood Posts: 4
    Hi - I have a 2004 Echo hatchback and I absolutely LOVE the car. I've had almost zero problems with it since I bought it new.

    Two problems (the other I'll post separately)... gas tank problem:

    The other day while driving the car sputtered like it was going to stall, but didn't, then seemed to self-correct - but the Check Engine light came on. Then at the gas station, when I opened the gas cap, it hissed and air came rushing out of it. As it turns out, the little metal flap the covers the hole inside the filler neck is gone (broke off or whatever). Also, now when I go to put gas in it, the pump clicks off every few seconds as though the pump thinks the car is full.

    I'm assuming the problem is with this metal 'filler neck guard'... Toyota says the part is $20 and $160 for labor. My question is, has this ever happened to anyone else here before? Does it all make any sense? Do I have any other options (like, for instance, a gas cap that has an extended piece in the middle of it that would seal the filler neck without having to replace that silver piece)? Any help would be much appreciated.

  • sodadoodsodadood Posts: 4
    Hi - I have a 2004 Echo hatchback and I absolutely LOVE the car. I've had almost zero problems with it since I bought it new.

    Two problems (the other I'll post separately)... vibration problem:

    A few weeks ago, I had my winter tires taken off the car (and off the rims) and then two NEW tires installed on the front (Rovello tires from Wal-Mart) and the other two older tires re-installed onto the back. Now the car vibrates slightly (but enough to be annoying) when driving over about 65. At first I thought maybe the "techs" at Walmart didn't balance the rear tires properly so I had it re-done at a different garage... but it's still doing it.

    I've had the brakes checked, and I don't think it's a coincidence that it happened after the tires were switched over. Could it be a problem that I didn't put 4 new tires on at the same time? The older rear tires still have a decent amount of tread. Or could it be an issue with the two new tires on the front?

    Any suggestions would be appreciated since it's been very frustrating.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Sounds like something has fallen apart in there. Yes have the shop take it apart and repair it. If you can read the code and post it and we will tell you what it means. AutoZone reads codes for free.

    Good luck and tell us what happens!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    You are right its something with the new wheels/tires you put on. Check for tread squirm. Look at the tread of each tire all the way around. It might be wavy which would indicate belt separation. Check for bent rim in side and outside.

    Take it back to the place that origionally did the work and make them fix it! They will feel guilty and want to help!

    I hope.

    Tell us what you find out!
  • capriracercapriracer Somewhere in the USPosts: 856
    First, new tires should go on the back as recommended by all the tire manufacturers. This is to prevent the rear from losing traction first in traction limited situations. It's a whole lot easier to regain control if the vehicle is facing forward.

    If you swap the tires front to rear, I suspect the vibration will be gone - indicating the new tires are - well, let's call it "out of round" - and no amount of balancing is going to fix that.

    Try that and report back.
  • A few years ago my a/c compressor went out and have finally decided to get it repaired. For those that have had this work done on their echo, what kind of prices can I be expecting?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    A lot of places do a really crappy job of tire balancing too. The vibration is certainly a problem with the new tires you put on, but it may not mean defective tires. You may want to try having them rebalance them (although a place that balanced them badly once will probably do so again), or go to a reputable tire place in your area that only does tires and have them do the balancing.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • I was quoted 800 and 900 last year.
  • Hi

    2005 Echo Hatchback.....I love mine too!

    Check Engine light came on. Dealer:

    Cause: scanned for codes has P044 evap vent control curcuit
    inspected system and found pressure control vsv faulty
    (vsv at cannister)

    Correction: requires charcole canister

    $373 parts + $90 labour plus taxes

    My question....what if I don't replace it? What difference will it make? Will it cause any damage to anything else?

    Answer.....check engine light will remain on so check engine will be no good for alerting you to anything else. Poorer fuel efficiency. No damage to anything else.

    So I decided not to replace it.

    And in publicly griping with many others about the petty annoyances of Check Engine lights, I learned that you can buy a code-checking device on sale for only $50. Good to know.

    Anyway, sometime after that I had trouble filling up. (Maybe my first fillup?) On an empty tank, it kept clicking off immediately, as though it was full. And on some attempts, the gas would all gush out. I tried a different pump. Then a different gas station. Then my husband tried it and asked if I used to have a little metal flap (sound familiar?) Yes! I did, now that he mentioned it. We figured it must have broken off and gotten pushed inside, and was blocking the tube.

    The guy at the dealership asked if I had the little metal flap, because some did and some didn't. I was pretty sure I did, but began to have doubts. Maybe I was thinking of my old Tercel?

    Long story, back and forth, different theories, odd approach to the problem had me doing some research while they had my car, and I ran across your post.


    Cause: ....Checked fuel lines to tank
    okay - codes P0441 and P0446 present incorrect purge flow
    and vent control curcuit. Checked previous ro - charcoal canister recommended. Still requires canister. Replaced.

    And I filled up just fine today.

    So I guess that was it. Though I'm wondering where the two new codes came from.... And I'm still sure I had a little metal flap. And shouldn't they KNOW which cars had it and which didn't?!

    I look forward to hearing what happens with yours.

    Good luck!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Next time just find one the same year as yours and check it.

    I think they all have flaps?
  • mopar71mopar71 Posts: 31
    Can someone tell me if the foglights on the echo are turned on with a dashboard switch or the headlight switch? also does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram? Thanks.
  • albusdalbusd Posts: 8
    This may not be exactly related, and you might have already fixed your issue, but I thought I'd throw my 2 cents in on this one -

    I have a 2000 Echo 4-door that around 95k was having a problem exactly like what you describe, a vibration that shakes the vehicle when driving at highway speeds, except my Echo had not had any work done on the tires prior to the vibration issue starting. I drove it like that for maybe 2-3k miles (I don't drive at highway speeds much) until I finally took it in to the local shop to have the tires rotated and balanced. After the work was done, the vibration was gone.

    The car was also pulling pretty badly to the right side, so I thought I needed an alignment, but the shop said there are sometimes tires they call "puller tires" that just don't track straight. After the rotate & balance was done it also helped the pulling problem quite a bit.

    I'd suggest taking it back and just asking them to take a look at it... there shouldn't be any charge for them to try rotating or rebalancing your new tires if you feel they did something wrong. I would hazard a guess that episodes like these are what keeps the local tire shops in business - otherwise we'd all be getting our tires at the big box store - but I suppose you could argue that the same experienced people with the same tools are working at your big box store... with that in mind, if you don't resolve the problem at your Walmart, I'd go straight to a local tire shop.
  • kcdawnkcdawn Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 echo automatic and right now my engine overheats, im not sure why though. so i went to a place and they didnt know why either, so my dad told me to turn the a/c on when it over heats and see if that helps and it does. so now whenever the overheat light starts blinking, i turn the a/c on and after a minute or twoo it goes off and everything is okay, thats problem one. now problem two is that when i turn the a/c on, when i am accelerating the car hesistatees for like a 3-4 seconds than it will be okay. but if i turn it off it will be okay right away :s please someone help its my first car and i love it, but the a/c is costing me gas and i dont know what to do :(
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Do not continue to drive the car like that or you will destroy the engine.

    With the engine COLD remove the radiator cap and check for coolant. Also, there is a white plastic bottle for coolant on the side of the radiator closest to the resr bumper. If they are empty fill them with coolant.

    Go to the right side of the engine compartment ENGINE OFF> There are two belts. The rear most one is the power steering. The other one that drives the laternator also drives the water pump. See if the belt is really loose. If it is thats why the car is over heating.

    Take the car to a shop. Tow it dont drive it.

    Good luck and tell us what happens or if you have more questions.
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