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Saab 9-3 Sedan



  • dhanleydhanley Posts: 1,531
    Actually, resale on audis is not really all that good. Additionally, you can often get a huge discount on new saabs. "losing" $5000 on resale doesn't mean much if you save $7000 up front.
  • biggimpbiggimp Posts: 8
    The Saab should be much less expensive up front, even if you get the Aero. I got a new '07 Aero 'combi w/ some options for $27,800. A similarly-equipped Audi (w/ the smaller engine which has 55 fewer hp than the Aero), would still be thousdands of dollars more expensive.
  • It's great, except:

    1) No locking glovebox
    2) No valet key--a way to prevent entry to trunk area.

  • pcampospcampos Posts: 12
    I'm confused by the HUGE difference between the Edmunds and KBB prices on this model. For a good condition vehicle with 71,000 miles on it KBB lists $9,200 for a private sale while Edmunds says $6,500!

    Anybody have any idea what's up with that?
  • r34r34 Posts: 178
    There is a $1000-$2000 difference for my 2001 9-5 Aero too. Most dealers go with KBB (in my case, it is better) or whatever posted on the internet.
  • ggs2ggs2 Posts: 18
    i am currently looking at the saab 9-3 2.0 vs audi a4 2.0. i have recently driven both and slightly favor the saab because of more room inside and turbo felt stronger.i would like to hear from some of you who have purchased either of these two cars within the past couple of years and learn how reliable they have or have not been and any other comments you may have.i would prefer to purchase the car and hope to keep it for several years.
  • waterdrwaterdr Posts: 307
    I have owned a 9-3 for a few years. I know two people that have had A-4's and both had to replaced the entire transmission and they are expensive as hell. While it may have been dumb luck, that car scares me.
  • floatsey09floatsey09 Posts: 9
    there are two people in my office that own later model A4's, 2003 and newer, and both of those guys have had to service their car multiple times a year in the two years i've been on the job. Plus, the dealership doing the work charges $75.00 an hour, so they're quite expensive to maintain once the warranty expires. I picked up a 2006 9-3 Aero with only 2,000 miles on it back in February. I have driven it an additional 3,000 and the only service I needed was to adjust the xenon headlights. It has done great in the snow and been very reliable. My annual insurance premium went down an additional $600 for picking the Saab for its safety compared to my last car. I recommend them over the Audi. Plus, they're a little less trendy than an A4. Everybody and their mother has an A4 or a 3 series BMW. Saabs have more of an original substance to them and they're a good blend of style, performance, safety, efficiency and originality. go with the saab.
  • davem5davem5 Posts: 8
    Greetings. The dealer (one of the few remaining on Houston) replaced my wipers; since then my washers don;t work. They still do work for the headlights. Any ideas? Checked the fuse, but looks good to me.
  • ph4235ph4235 Posts: 2
    How does the Saab 9-3 traction control system handle in the snow? Thinking about purchasing one and live in Chicago area.

  • dhanleydhanley Posts: 1,531
    Well, i have a RWD car with a much simpler traction control system, and i do fine in chicago. :)

    But if you want to be safe in the snow, get snow tires. Period.

  • hi, i live in VT and our winters are colder and snowier than Chicago winters. Plus, we have to deal with twisty roads, hills, and mountains making driving treacherous. My 9-3 aero did excellent in the snow this past winter. It was my first winter having the vehicle and I am an avid skier and went to the mountain 25 times this season. My TCS never was engaged. I did use brand new snow tires. I bought some Gislavads from the Saab dealer when i purchased the car. If you are concerned about winter driving conditions and want the added peace of mind, than i urge you to buy snow tires for your car. All seasons are not good enough for winter driving. They don't bite through even a half inch of snow, nor funnel it through its tread. Also, because saabs are FWD cars, you'll need the extra grip from a snow tire because they don't have the benefit of AWD. Believe it or not, but some people in VT are still foolish enough to think that they can get through a VT winter with all seasons because they might have 4WD or AWD, and those are the idiots that are off the side of the road as I am plowing down the highway in my little saab on the way to slopes. Snow tires can litterally save your life, and you'll absolutely need them if you try to climb the slightest of hills with a little snow on them. I recommend either the Gislavads (Swedish tire company), Nokian Hakkapolitas (top of the line snow tire on the market) or the Cooper Weather Masters. The VT State Police use those and I used to have the coopers on an old acura in college. If you don't use snow tires, you put yourself at higher risk of losing control of your vehicle, and then the TCS will kick in and it can be annoying, but effective at moderate speeds. Buy the snow tires.
  • ph4235ph4235 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice on winter drving witht the snow!
  • bobbyabobbya Posts: 3
    My brakes are shot after 15K miles!! Whaaa!?!

    Is this normal, I'm not a crazy driver, I dont ride the brakes.

    Saab 9-3 '07 rear brakes shot, rotors shot, 400.00 out the window. Front brakes are fine.

    160 2 rotors
    80 brake pads
    160 labor

    Makes no sense.
  • shihanbshihanb Posts: 17
    The front pads went on my car at 30K miles. The dealer wanted $550 to replace the pads and rotors. I took it to my local mechanic who measured the rotors and fou nd that they did not need replacing. I saved about 300 dollars.

    I wanted to use ceramics as they are much better but my mechanic insisted on using the factory replacements. I should have insisted as the ceramics are much better, and the next year SAAB uses ceramics all the way around.

    Before you spend any money, check with a reputable mechanic and find out what is going on, perhaps your rotors do not need replacing
  • espanaespana Posts: 1
    I purchased my 9-3 last August and I have had to change my headlights every two months. I was told that it could possibly be the electical circuits are wired as one. Does anyone have the same issue?
  • I'm in the same boat. Just under 23,000 miles. Heard a hissing/scratching noise on the rear right brake only when braking. Dealership said the caliper was sticking and ruined the rotor. Warranty covered replacement of the rotor and caliper but they said I needed new pads. Out $200 and shocked that I need new pads at 23,000 miles. I don't know a lot about cars, but the new rear pads already look thinner than my original front pads. What gives? Can anyone give a quick 101 on Saab brakes?
  • Sorry - meant to add that I also have a 2007 9.3
  • saablcpsaablcp Posts: 195
    Manufacturers have been trying to find the right composition for brake pads since the optimum material was banned,that being asbestos. You make them from a hard material to enhance pad life and they squeal under light to moderate pressure.You soften the material and they stop squealing but they wear out faster and create excessive brake dust. Hard to find that "Goldilocks and the 3 Bears" just right combo.and of course brakes are the ultimate "your mileage may vary".I have had an '03 Vector and an '06 9-5,did brakes on the '03 at about 28k.,lease ended on 9-5 with 21k...brakes were fine.
  • shihanbshihanb Posts: 17
    I had to replace the front pads on my 2005 at 25K miles. I asked my mechanic to use ceramic pads and he refused, citing liability issues with not using a factory replacement. Lo and behold, the following year they went to ceramics front and back.

    Also my dealer wanted over $300 to replace the rotors which could not be resurfaced. My mechanic was able to resurface the rotors and change a $800 repair bill to a $350 repair bill.
  • waterdrwaterdr Posts: 307
    Before you get too hard on the Saab dealer, Saab requires that the rotors be replaced with new pads. This is common in many cars and in fact, when you have a performance car with softer brakes it is stupid to not replace the rotors when the pads are replaced. Performance pads are designed to seat with new rotors....they will fit like a glove as they get use. When you then replace the pads w/o the rotors, the car will not stop as well.

    And BTW, you should not re-surface these rotors. They are soft and will be subject to warping quickly if you surface them. As a result, you will be back in for new pads and rotors most likely in a shorter period of time.

    One more thing....rotors and brakes are a job that any guy should be able to do in your own driveway. Takes me about 30 minutes per axle and I buy all my brakes online (all Saab OE materials too). I am not a mechanic....just a regular guy. I think I pay around $180 for a set of rotors and pads online and ....$0 for labor. I can do front and rear for less then $400. The additional amount of work required to swap rotors once you are pulling pads is about 2 minutes. It is completely silly to not replace rotors and even sillier to re-surface them if you are pulling pads anyway.
  • shihanbshihanb Posts: 17
    yes, i would not be too hard on the dealer. this is the dealer where the service guy locked the keys in the car requiring me to bring the second set down.

    also the shift knob was popping out, so the service guy epoxied the knob back on - without first putting in the spring for the reverse lever.

    and, of course, when replacing a faulty turn signal switch, accidentally causing a blockage in the a/c drain resulting in the passenger side wells turning into a swimming pool.

    and i have replaced rotors and pads myself, but the ease of doing it depends a lot on the car and the age of the car (rusted screws). i have another car that requires special tooling to remove the rotors.
  • Same story, only I have a 2006 93. At 15K miles, the rear brakes were shot. The rear wheels become covered with black brake dust in-between car washings while the front wheels are clean by comparison. My last car was an Audi A4 and the rear wheels never became black with brake dust, only the front wheels.

    I asked the dealer what's up with this. His reply, this is normal for a 93. It seems like a flaw to me.
  • cmwongcmwong Posts: 1
    2006 Saab 93 2.0 Turbo. 17k miles
    I was also shock to learn during a routine tire rotation that my rear brake pads are at limit. Front is ok. Also, I notice the rear wheels has lots of brake dust from day one.
    Talk to B&B Saab in Santa Clara. They offer to replace the rear pads at cost and I accepted. Rotors still ok for now. Still, it is incredible that pads have such a short life.

  • waterdrwaterdr Posts: 307
    If the dealer is THAT incompetent, then that is even a bigger reason to not have them touch your brakes.

    Some brakes require unique tools, but they are easy to find and rusted bolts and stuck rotors are easily remedied. First, if you use silicon this does not happen. Second, a can a anti-cease will do wonders.

    Hey look....someone griped about paying what dealers charge to do brakes. Either do them yourself, or pay someone and don't complain. Rotors and pads are basic stuff.

    The hardest part with the Saab 93 is knowing if you have 11.2" or 11.9" rotors in the front. It can be a little confusing especially with the different models and wheel packages. I had to measure mine the first time.

    As far as brake dust....I think all Saabs dust like crazy, but you really should see a lot more up front then in the rear. They use pretty soft materials and the fronts should be doing most of the work.
  • Sorry to start a new line...but I am in desperate need of advice.

    My 2004 Saab 9-3 ARC had the transmission go out at 54,000, which as you know is 4000 miles beyond the warranty. Cost on the repair is $3500. The first scheduled transmission SERVICE on this car is at 60,000 miles. I contacted Saab customer service and Saab corporate to request that they contribute to the repair. They refused. This is a clean, well taken care of Saab, with a good service record and driven with care. Any suggestions on how I could convince Saab to help pay for it? This is not a Yugo, the transmission should not go out on a $40,000 "luxury brand" vehicle with this amount of miles. Any similar experiences? Any thoughts?
  • shihanbshihanb Posts: 17
    i think what it comes down to is a) how much you like the car and b) what the book value is, based on condition and mileage.

    GM was having that pay employee price discount, which may or may not still be active, that + the arc trade in would get you a nice 2008 at a reasonable price.

    it is basically your call - love it or trade it. :confuse:
  • shihanbshihanb Posts: 17
    one other possibility. my miata needed a new clutch and i got it from a transmission place (aamco) for half the price of what the dealer wanted. not to mention a bad seal they replaced for only twenty dollars while doing the job. get a quote from a transmission place.
  • Never mind. Nothing to see here.
  • >>Manufacturers have been trying to find the right composition for brake pads since the optimum material was banned,that being asbestos.

    Check your facts. Asbestos isn't banned.
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