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Dodge Sprinter



  • I replaced pads, rotors, and calipers on my 06 sprinter. When the car is turned off the brake pedal is fine. When I turn the car on the brake pedal slowing sinks to the floor from mild pressure. What is the order of bleeding the brakes? Or is this most likely going to be the master cylinder?
  • Too add to this.. Im begining to think I need to bleed the master cylinder before bleeding the brakes but how do you do this??
  • I need egress type windows for a Sprinter. Any ideas?
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    This really begs the question, why did you need new Calipers on a 2006????

    Generally, I start with the fronts (run plenty of fluid through) Closest to brake booster/master cylinder first, then other front, then each of the rears...

    Remember that you need to use DOT 4 (that is heavy duty, low moisture, high temp). Keep reservoir near full while bleeding. I alway use a bleeding kit now, get at auto parts house. Also bleed while engine is running to use boost to increase flow speed (to shoot the bubbles out). I have also had to go around the entire vehicle twice, especially when pushing out old (dark) fluid.

    DOT3 is not corect fluid, too much moisture, and low temp threshold.

    DOT5 is NOT correct, it is wrong chemical makeup and is NOT compatible.

    These are guidelines I use, but are general and your specific application (Sprinter) could be different. I have not tried them out as I don't need calipers on my Sprinter yet.

    Please let us know about the reason for new calipers, I am very interested in this. :confuse:

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    What model year(s)?

    2002-2006 are pretty easy as upfitters have had them for a while.

    2007-2008 for USA/Canada is certainly tougher, newer.

    KenB :shades:
  • I am so frustrated. We bought a new Sprinter. We were assured by the salesman that they tend to last better than other cars with less frequent repairs. We have taken it in for warranty work way too many times. We have had to have a new battery and alternator. We had to have the passenger lock fixed. We had to have a new gear shift put in ( it would get stuck and not go above neutral -- stuck in drive or neutral). Also, this seems to be starting to almost get stuck again. When they replaced the battery they somehow messed up the radio/speaker connection so it randomly does not send sound to one of my speakers (which they claim they could not have done, but it started right after their repairs). Also, the heat does not have any varyiable temperatures. I can turn it all the way to cold for vented air and anything else is hot. It is very frustrating that we have so many repairs and I am very concerned that when the warranty runs out we will not be able to afford the car because of these major repairs. Has anyone else had so many problems? I would hope that our car is the exception.
  • kurt6kurt6 Posts: 22

    Your Sprinter is """NOT""" the exception,myself 11 warranty trips to MB workshop at 45K.miles.A metal junkbox on 4 wheels, would never buy a Mercedes product again.Now at 80K miles and still heaving problems,plus new MB rule $100 deductible after 39K miles for every warranty visit to your dealer.
  • This is why one does not buy early in the new
    model cycle. Same thing happens with every
    make. 2001 Lexus 300 was at the end of the
    model and very good. Lexus 2002 350 was full
    of problems. Helps to look before you leap.
  • I've heard of a lot of people having problems, but I haven't had a single one with my 2003; if you don't count not knowing the symptoms of needing to replace the fuel filter! I have about 50k miles on mine, putting 30k on in the year that I've owned it. I've driven it several 500+ mile days in a row, in 100 degree heat, I've hauled over a ton of building materials up into the Sierras, and last weekend I forded a 2' deep creek in Northern California; which was on a "shortcut" that turned out to be a 4wheel drive road!

    The only thing that needs attention are the stock tires, which are still OK but nearly ready to replace, and the battery is getting a little tired. I haven't had a single mechanical problem. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, though. I'm hoping that there will be another option available in the US soon, like the Ford Transport (?) or the cool diesel passenger vans that Toyota sells in Africa. There are a LOT of sprinter-like vehicles that are available in other countries.
  • .
    The dodge site now lists electric sunroof and electric sliding doors for the cargo van.
    Time to order.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    Though not an exception, per se, you have had more than your share of the problems we hear about on the nit-pickingly frustrating side... they shouldn't happen, but most are not deal killer problems... the shifter problem sounds remarkably like a frayed wire somewhere. They need to trace the real problem down. Two shifters should not go out in the life of the vehicle (500K miles or more).
    Also, remember that the shifter and the accelerator are not attached to the thing they shift... they are electronic items that send signals. This is also not unique to MB, most car companies are going to fly-by-wire for most car functions.

    I am NOT as happy with the new battery (MOPAR) as I was with the original (VARTA) battery... starting on COLD days not as good now.

    The HEAT knob is a famous problem that is not a problem (it is by design, not sure if that is not worse)... Somewhere hidden in your van is a sensor, but I have not yet found it, nor have I got an answer in the posts I've made as to where it is either... Until that sensor is up to the temp the knob indiciates (cryptically of course as there are no markings), it will try to put out heat to get the sensor to reach that temp... Since the sensor is NOT in the air flow path (might be on the return side, but I doubt that also), the heater will work until the sensor heats up (unless you have the knob set to COLD, or very nearly so).

    Knob temps range on the cold side from below 62F to much warmer than that (maybe 80 or 88F)... Not my choice of range as I prefer a cooler cabin, even in the winter (especially as I must wear clothing appropriate for working outside at least parttime). Mustn't get hot/cold/hot/cold/hot/cold as this is the best way to suffer bad effects of temps.

    Once the van cabin is generally heated up, then the knob becomes useful for adjusting the airflow side of heat/cool on demand. My friend's fancy Corvette works exactly the same, and he doesn't like it either (his car cost twice what my Sprinter did as well).

    My wife has Asthma, so we like the cabin air filter and the recirculate button... until the recirculate function just cuts off after about 15 minutes (how lovely when you are following a junker with and oil/fuel burning habit!!!

    In case you hadn't noticed, the dash-top vents do NOT heat at all, they are after the A/C, but before the heater core... When I need air flow and window clearing, but not much heat, I send the heat to the windshield by the knob control and only open the dashtop vents to balance the temp.

    European cars apparently earn their stripes for something OTHER than environmentals/airflow.

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    2006 is end of cycle or the T1N Sprinter (actually a holdover, as Europe went to the newer NC3V already).

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    What do they call that Toyota van? I wnat to look them up.

    KenB :confuse:
  • Hey Ken, My recirculate is broken, Pushing the button lights it up, but will not shut the door. The actuator moves but is broken from the door pivot. Cost to repair, 530.00. The mechanic says put a screw in it. Kind of nervous to take things apart. Have you heard of this problem before. The mech. says he has seen this before. Van goes in monday , A staples truck backed into me. Hope you have a great holiday, Tom

    PS Just received the winter front mask from sprinter accessories, 105.00. Doesn't seem to fit right. Have sent them email. Will keep every one informed on this.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    Yes, have heard of the problem with the re-circ door, but have not got any better fix than a screw (or pin/cotter key). Have also heard of the eventual death of the actuator.

    KenB :shades:
  • Helo, On early Doge Sprinters the fuel pump does not provide enough pressure to re-prime the engine after the fuel filter change. The dodge dealers use a hand pump(similar to ones used on portable fuel tanks for outboard boat motors). They connect the priming pump to the fuel return line from the engine and suck the fuel through the filter to the engine and into the return line. They re-install the return line to the fuel filter and then you can start the engine.
  • That is my understanding as well.
    The 2006 Dodge Sprinter was effectively the leftover models they did not sell in Europe the previous year.
    Europe being a much bigger Sprinter market, DC decided to stiff the USA buyers with -new- leftovers so they could keep prices high in Europe and clear the lots easily.
    It is only now that we are seeing the vehicle that came out two years ago - with all the options. This is why I waited. If they spent a billion on the redesign something had to be better.
  • orb1orb1 Posts: 4
    Hi All,

    With the birth of our 5th child due Jan 1st it looks like we're going to outgrow our standard 7 seat SUV. Right now we're maxed out on storage space and seating (keeping the more unruley children seperated!) with what we've got. I'm hoping to move up to bigger (and hopefully more fuel efficient) diesel Sprinter sometime this winter. Anyone know of any new or low mileage '07 nine seaters still around?

    With the low dollar to euro ratio it seems like the '08 will be a little out of our budget.

    Great site and I look forward to chatting with you all about the van you (and hopefully I will) love so well in the future.


  • You probably want a 2004-2006 model. The new ones have crappy mileage compared the old 5cyl diesel, and as with any newly redesigned vehicle, they have problems. There are still a lot of unused old models on the lots. I used TruckTraderonline to find mine. You can have about any vehicle shipped anywhere in the country for $750 or less. Ebay is good, too.
  • We are looking into replacing our old Ford conversion van with a Sprinter for our family of 7, including 5 yr old triplets. We live in NE OH (near Cleveland) and nobody seems to carry these. I suppose we could travel a reasonable distance, but where do we find dealers that carry these? My wife is also concerned about the rear wheel drive in bad weather. Thanks. Tom
  • fhr57fhr57 Posts: 4
    I started looking at Sprinters 2 years ago.I live in Ohio east of Cleveland and went to the dealer in Geauga county. I test drove all of the models and was looking for a passenger van any color but white. The dealer was no help at all, and salesman knows nothing about the vans. I did go there once for engine light on and was very happy with the service dept. I thought I would wait for the 07s, but when they came out, things weren't looking so good. I contacted the dealer and continued to look. I ended up buying an 06 from Roanoke Motors in Illionois in June. They have a web site. They had 20-30 models on the lot. I was able to get a blue, high roof passenger van. They were very helpful and gave me a great deal. So far have 10,000 mi, no problems It handles just as good in the snow and ice as a Ford. I just drove to Colorado to ski and was in storms both ways as well as deep snow in the mountains. It goes through everything as good as my Fords. Been driving Ford vans since 1975 and replaced my 95 with 06 Sprinter. Still have a 2000 Ford for work.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    The combination of ESR/ESP/ABS... (Electronic Spin Retarder, Electronic Stability Program, and Antilock Brake System) are able to cut down on rear drive anomalies on most surfaces that have some traction.

    Like any vehicle, the Sprinter cannnot overcome the rules of physics... slower is better in questionable condintions. Also, many people have recommended different tires for Winter conditions (Bridgestone Blizzaks are a commonly mentioned good choice). As in the past, it is best that you don't run the winter tires year 'round as they wear away the tread features that make them so good in the worst conditions.

    I prefer the the 2006, and a few are still around, but not so much selection I would think. Less power (but plenty for most people), but (2 MPG) better mileage than the latest model.

    KenB :shades:
  • Just wondering if you have had any luck with your brakes yet? I have an 06 with 25,000 miles on it and I am taking it in again on Monday to have the brakes looked at. They have replaced pads the 1st time and rotors and pads front and back the last two times. I am about to pull my hair out. They just cna't seem to come up with a fix. I was just curious if you have had any luck yet.
    Thanks Sean
  • Anybody know the life of glow plugs,ERG valve, glow plug module,ERG gasket? My engine light (little motor) on the dash comes and goes. So to the dealer I go. they say I need all of them. List as follows, ERG valve 439.75, ERG gasket 5.85, 1 gallon coolant 15.00, labor 165.95, Glow plugs (1 )156.55, Glow plug module 104.84, labor 255.95 and shop supplies 20.00 Labor total 421.90, Total Parts 741.99, Tax 44.51 Total of all $1208.40 I have 92K miles, an 04 got it 12/31/2004. I know that the service writer gets a % of the take. Seems that every time I go there its 5-6 hundred bucks?? Input would help. Thanks, Tom :cry: :mad:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    So I guess that you didn't get the 100K mile drivetrain warranty... EGR and glow plugs, and glow plug module?

    The happy part is that they only charged you $15.00 for a gallon of coolant, it is special (G05) HOAT and a gallon (undiluted) costs that much (maybe more) at Pep Boys. Otherwise, they didn't put the right anti-freeze in and you now need to change it ALL out.

    On this and other forums we have discussed that most of the time the EGR valve actually just needs cleaned when it first malfunctions, but it is not common for a factory mechanic to do this anymore.

    As seen in the ebay and other on-line sources that glow-plug was way over priced, the glow plug module is often more though, the labor was way high unless they had to move the engine to change it out.

    I think we have talked about getting a local mercedes (non-dealership) mechanic to start working on your van... I think now is the time... you've gotten close to 100K miles and your dealership is not giving you a good feeling about service. If you have time to check out local options in mercedes or diesel mechanics, especially to start a relationship you can trust, you probably should.

    MB, like Cadillac, Lexus, Mitsubishi and a few others have a reputation of high parts costs (without being exotic... Ferrari parts are insane). This does not, however, mean that Dodge should be boosting the prices of simple replacement parts... these are trucks, and not high-end cars/suvs.

  • Hi ken, After hearing the price I refused and was charged 96.00 for the effort. The van was running so off I went. A friends next door neighbor is a diesel mech at a ford dealer and has a pole barn well stocked to work on cars. Today the van started good this morning and the little light was on. After doing a couple jobs and the o/s temp reached about 25 The light went out. So on my first job I started it up and put on the heater ,,,NO MOTOR, Great.. It kicked on after about 3-4 mins??, This afternoon I noticed another head light bulb blew. I think the count now is 7-8, think the van has a mind of its own, Oh by the way I was in target and they sell the bulb for 7.99 All this time I have gone to auto zone or murrys auto and paid 15.75. Also its rusting under the rear door glass, AAHHHHHH. I dont know what to do at this point, Trade it in on another van (american)?? Thanks as always for your expertise, Tom :mad: :confuse: :sick:
  • kurt6kurt6 Posts: 22
    1.Head light bulb problem:Sprinters notorious for bad ground connection,add or splice into the existing ground wire close to head light and attach to any clean body
    screws.Check groundscrew (firewall above battery)

    2.H&AC booster motor:Check 2 pluckin connetion,one close to the motor,one about 12" next to cabin airfilter.
  • I have a 2004 Sprinter with 37,000 miles. When I start it, I let it go through the glow-plug cycle first. It starts fine. It accelerates fine (in neutral). But when I shift it into drive or reverse, the engine will die. This will happen repeatedly until I let the engine warm up for perhaps 5-10 minutes. Then when in drive, it acts like it is in overdrive, and will hardly move for a while. After a few more minutes, it runs fine. Anyone have a cause and solution?
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    Recent fuel filter change?

    If not, do so now...

    Cold weather make it worse???

    Fuel quality problem? use Power Service (white bottle with red/black lettering) to help get rid of emulsion/clouded/gelled fuel due to cold weather effects.

    Power Service Silver bottle in summer (improves Cetane rating more).

    KenB :sick:
  • johendyjohendy Posts: 1
    Would you have any reservations in getting the '05 sprinter? Are the 2005 models a good year? It only has 25k miles, what (in dollars) do you expect my maintenance to be for the next 3 years? I would appreciate hearing your best guess on this, thanks
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