Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair



  • Andrew,
    Thanks for the reply. Did you have the cryo process done on the same rotors you were having problems with? This is my 3rd set and I have about 20K on these and the pulse just started about 200 miles ago. Thanks.
  • Hello fphilli1,
    About using the old rotors, I would not recommend it. If your going to spend the money on the cryo process, start with new rotors. Mine were Ford OEM rotors with no miles on them, Straight out of the box and to the cryo. shop for the treatment. I put them on my truck right after that. My Excursion only had 500 miles on it. I didn't even wait for anything to happen. If you are interested I have the old rotors with 500 miles on them and I'll make you a good deal on them. All 4 rotors for $450.00. I have them listed on a local selling site Classified ads under Auto Parts and Accessories category or wheels and tires category. Take a look if you want. C/ya later Andrew
  • I also had an issue with my 2001 Ex Diesel cutting out. I had the CPS replaced and never had an issue again. I got the tip from the Edmonds forum and also found out Ford has a recall for this. I took the reciept for the CPS replacement I had done at a non Ford shop and was reimbursed the entire bill. Look into this as it is a $200.00 repair if you have someone else do it.
  • Andrew,
    Thanks for the note back. I will not be buying your rotors but thanks for the offer. I am also looking into a different brand and type of rotor that are drilled and slotted.
  • after buying and installing a front brake package of treated new rotors, calipers & pads, the rotors are once again bad at only 4500 miles....what move should be next? slotted or drilled? (2000 excursion)

  • twtcadtwtcad Posts: 13
    wow.....#1, do not buy drilled rotors for your X! The X is to heavy.....either slotted or slotted & dimpled only! Also, please don't take this the wrong way; just trying to get info.....does anybody that drives the X ride the brake, or drive w/ both feet, or maybe a "panic" stopper (if you know what I mean)? Because the X is extremely heavy and any of those things mentioned will put excess wear (heat) on your rotors. But even that said 4500 miles is ridicules. Where did you get the rotors from? I've had my slotted/dimpled rotors for around 60k and the only thing I've done to my brakes since installing them is changing the pads and I am a very aggressive driver! So it's not making any sense as to why yours keep warping. Have you checked your calipers so see if they are working correctly?
  • i am a 2 foot driver & have been for many years (police technique) however do not ride the brakes...rotors, pads & calipers from FROZEN ROTORS....calipers are fine....a bad caliper would cause pulling.....i live in a mountainous area which could affect it some...i've written to FROZEN ROTORS and am awaiting their reply...thanks for the input

  • Man, that sucks that your rotors have gone to the dog's again. I really know how you feel. I went through 2 pair of rotors and one set of calipers on my 2000 Ex. It only had 7700 miles on it before someone crashed into it and totaled it out. Mabey a ABS problem? I wonder if that year is a :lemon: ? Although my 2001 Ex. did the same thing, but only once.
    I was lucky, my Excursions were still under warentee and Ford fixed them. Then I traded in my 2001 with 21000 miles on it, for a 2004 Ex. Eddie Bauer. The first thing I did was the brakes. The Cryo brakes have been working great with 28000 miles and I don't baby them by no means. I did not use FROZEN ROTORS so I can't compare them to the ones I have. I wish that yours had been reliable as mine. You may try twtcads fix with the slotted and dimpled rotors. He has 60K on them and no problems. I would look at the calipers real close and make sure that the pins move very easy without any slop in the bushing. This is a typical Ford caliper hang up. I wish I could suggest another solution for this braking problem. Good luck and I hope you get this fixed without a major headache. :sick: C/ya Later Andrew
  • I have a 2001 Excursion, same problem, same attempted fix, same problem. Any luck finding out what the problem is/was?
  • FROZEN ROTORS just sent me a new pair which I have just installed. They paid frt. both ways and were very cooperative. Stay tuned.
  • I have a 2000 ex that just turned 200,000, and I had all of the brake problems that you all have described. My brother in law owns a repair shop and turned the rotors a couple of times and it never lasted very long. The problem, is that the penny pinching pricks at ford put half ton brakes on the heaviest SUV on the road, thanks ford. My solution was to purchase drilled and slotted rotors and pads from a supplier on ebay, I don't remember the exact supplier (this was done 80,000 miles ago), but I'll tell you this, I paid 300.00 for all four rotors and pads, YES I SAID 300.00. in the last 80,000 miles my brakes have not shuddered once. I bought my excursion with 23 mile on it in Feb 00, and I'm hoping to drive it another 8 years and get another 200,000 miles out of it. Its a great rig, except for the electrical system which is the worst I've ever seen. BTW, in 200,000 miles, I have replaced the afore mentioned rotors and pads, the altenator, the cam position sensor, the hub bearing assemblies and rebuilt the front suspension, total cost 2,800.00. I love my ex, even though I hate fords (raised by a GM father). Good luck to all of you that were smart enough to buy one of these and make all your suburban driving friends jealous.
  • Thanks for the reply. I will wait for your update. The chattering brakes are distracting to say the least.
  • I was just checking my AOHELL e-mail and clicked on the worst value cars article. The Excursion came up #6 on the list. I guess these SUV's have gotten a bad rap. To many brake issues or bad gas mileage? I know one thing, the resale on them sure went to the bottom. What was I thinking when I bought it? I really don't care. I bought this Ex. because I needed a big rig to be able to handle the Towing and the room is great! Sure am glad gas went down. I drive it a little more often now. Sorry I don't have any new solutions for the brakes. Mine are still going strong. I'm doing a little research on different brake systems. I'll post some links after I compile them. Just trying to help those still combating this problem. I think the Excursion is not as bad as people make it out to be. I use it for what it was intended for. I believe I'm still alive because of the Excursion. If I had driving any thing less I would not be writing this Post. My 2000 Ex. was totaled out. I was T-boned in it and walked away. My 2004 Eddie Bauer, while towing my 26' travel trailer in May of 2006, It had severe wind whip and lost the trailer and the Excursion remained upright and on the road. The trailer Jacked knifed came off the ball went over the top of the Ex. and landed upside down on the other side. Holy Sh$%&# !!!! It had the best hitch eq. bars and chains and the Ex. held firm. The people that seen it happen could not believe it did not roll. Just my thoughts for the safety of this rig. #6 rating, hah! #1 in my book. I feel great about it. C/ya Andrew
  • I agree. I have a 2000 Ex and it has been # 1 in my book since we brought her home from the dealership. We bought it to pull a travel trailer and for long distance hauls with the kids. My husband has talked about trading it in on an F350 4 door. I have told him no way! If you take the F350 4 door and add a cap what do you get? An Excursion without a 3rd row seat! Forget that! Does the V10 get poor gas milage? Yes but what kind of milage can you expect from a V10 besides poor. But it will pull that 28 foot travel trailer uphill and still gain speed. We love our big rig and plan on driving her into the sunset for a long time to come. :shades:
  • I have about 150000 on my Ex. It's still a strong car. Problems, other than brakes, have been minimal.....door locks have slowly gone south...replacement costs are so high, I resign myself to manual operation....suspension still sound, leather driver seat has worn through....paint is remarkable (white). This car never has seen the inside of a garage and yet the gloss remains on the rust. It is a rough rider on bad roads. I have a similar dodge 2500 w/v10 (1996)...vastly superior suspension. I would love to find another very low mileage Ex. The didge v10 is much stronger engine.....gas mileage on it makes the Ex look like an econimy car.
  • The light problem has to do with one of the power locks. To determine which one you would have to diconect one at a time. start with the drivers. Just pull door panel off and be easy when taken the inner skin. I you don't wont to pull it off then take a sharp knife and cut a spot open and just reseal it with duck tape.

    I work at KTP here in KY will check on computer chip when we go back to work in Feb. If a dealer does know they will not tell you unless it is a recall. The price to fix a vehicle is higher then a recall fix.
  • My back up sensors are working again. You will not believe this.... My 9 year old daughter Sami fixed them. :blush: That is the only explanation I have. All she did was wipe the sensor spot in the center clean and the damn things worked again. :confuse: Maby there was a loose connection or something. I can figure it out, I wiggled them all with no luck long before she wiped them clean. I suppose I'll have to get her to fix more things for me, and get her to read this forum to help out everyone. Ha Ha. Just thought I would share this with everyone. C/ya Andrew
  • My 2000 Excursion (diesel) has an ignition theft device called iLock. As luck would have it, my iLock system has gone bad and has locked me out from starting my truck. Truck now sitting at grocery store. Called local Ford dealerships here in TX, they have no idea what I'm talking about...never heard of iLock. Called dealership in UT where I bought vehicle, they state I need a bypass which is no longer made/available or, will have to have ignition re-wired. Anybody dealt with this issue or know of a work around? Hate to pay cost to re-wire.
    Thank you!
  • trxdude1
    I sent this to a Ford electrical eng'r that I have worked with in the past and here is what he had to say about your issue. Hope it helps.
    There is no such device called "iLock" that I know of on an Excursion. There is a computer software program called iLock. The antitheft system on the 2000 Excursion is the PATS system (Passive Anti-Theft System) and there is a technical service bulletin regarding diagnosis of the system in case of a no start condition. Here is a link to the TSB -
    If the PATS system is causing the vehicle to no start or crank, the red icon on the instrument cluster that looks like a vehicle with a padlock will flash on and off quickly to indicate that the anti-theft is active. Typically it is a wiring issue or a PATS transponder or PATS antenna that has gone bad. ;)
  • excursion 2000 2x4 6 .8 10cylinders...does anyone know the actual psi thats supposed to run through the injectors?
    i had just replaced the fuel pump and im getting 30psi not sure if thats right... ...i already replaced the oxygen sensors so i dont know if that could still be it... i drive on the freeway constantly .. when i get about 10 minutes on the freeway the revolutions will go all the way down and it will just be in idle just enough for the motor to not turn off, even though the its in drive... then ill have to turn it off and on again for it to work another 10 minutes... anyone know on what i can do?
  • nukefordnukeford Posts: 4
    I have an 01 Diesel Excursion with 134K on it. I took it in for a trnas filter and was told the fluid was very dirty/brown and there were alot of shavings on the magnet. I have never towed anything and the filter was changed before. The dealer recommended a flush so I can monitor the fluid color for a couple of weeks but I have heard that they cause more problems than they fix. Anyone have any insight on the transmission flushing or know of any specific trans problems in the 01?
  • daddy818daddy818 Posts: 18
    Simple one here(I think),truck is 2000 exc. ,V-10, etc., do I have to tear the whole front of the dash off to be able to replace bad inst. gage lights or is there an easier way ? And there is a squeal(from under the hood) that gets louder when its wet or damp outside but will go away if weather is warm and dry(I think), I know I should change the serp. belt, but has anyone had problems w/ the tensioner squealing like this or is it usually just the belt, and if anyone knows, how much would dealer charge for a new tensioner ?? On the subject of brakes, I replaced pads and all hardware in front brakes,unfortunately 1 guide pin in each caliper was frozen, was able to break 1 free but other snapped off on me so I tried drilling it out with minimal success, now I think maybe one or both calipers are applying pressure unevenly(have not checked yet) because when you apply brakes there is a "shuddering" and at times its very bad, if you let off the brakes for a second and then hit them again it seems to smooth out somewhat but I know there is something wrong and don't want to wait too long to fix it, I'm guessing the dealer wants $200(+) for a caliper, does anyone know if you can get quality parts for a decent price somewhere else ??
    And what the price might be for new calipers and possibly slotted and/or drilled/dimpled rotors ?? Thanks for any help in advance and I'm sure glad this site is here, GOOOO EXCURSIONS!!!!
  • we replaced both batteries on our 6.0L deisel and then had problems with it not starting 1 out of 15 starts. The batteries were dead. Ford dealer couldn't find a problem and it stopped for a month and then did it again so we changed the alternator. two day later it did it again. now it has been fine for two days, any suggestions as to the problem. My father in law had a idea of maybe the starter but at this point we are guessing. Has anyone had this before or a suggestion as to the problem.
  • fphilli1fphilli1 Posts: 30
    I have a 2001 7.3L 4X4 and have had two problems with starting. The crank position sensor was bad, (very common & Ford had a arecall for this issue) and I blew #30 fuse. I hope this helps.......
  • daddy818daddy818 Posts: 18
    Posted message in March about "shuddering " brakes, I pulled them apart and every thing looks okay. Cleaned and put back together, shuddering still happens and might even be worse now. When I was checking out all the steering linkage to see if I can see a possible cause, I pulled on a long bar that is on the rear side of the front axle(I think its a stabilizer bar, can someone please confirm), the bar is about 1 3/4" to 2" in diameter, its straight section is about 3 feet long and its bent about 90(+) degrees at each end and the ends are about 1 foot long after the bend, the bar ends are attached to the bottom end of a connecting rod(?) on each side and the connecting rods are bolted through the frame at the top end. The straight section of the stabilizing bar is attached with 2 brackets that are on the back side of the leaf spring/axle brackets, there are bushings in the stabilizer bar brackets that I think may need replacing. I can move the bar back and forth by hand a little(1/4 - 1/2"+) and the bar moves up and down in the passenger side bushing(about 1/16"+/-) if you bounce the vehicle up and down by hand. Could this be causing the "shuddering"? and is it a stabilizer bar? and should the bar move like that? Vehicle is 2000 Limited,4 wd,V-10, gas engine. Thanks for your help in advance.
  • fphilli1fphilli1 Posts: 30
    Yes it is the front stab. bar. I have a 2001 Excursion with 140k on it. I have had the same brake problem twice. It is warped rotors. I have had them replaced twice. There is a lot of chatter on this web site about brake shudder and some guys swear that rotors that have been treated with cyrogenics ( liquid nitrogen) have fixed the issue. I have also heard it does not. I did put upgraded rotors, pads and front calipers on this time and I have the best brakes I have ever had since I got the truck new. Good luck.
  • i have a 2005 excursion with bad rotor..
    i have been told by MANDERBACH FORD in temple PA

    you do not cut rotor, must be replaced.. so i did and still they warp
    now i wonder what they will do cause i am taking my excursion to an other dealer HMMMMMM care to bet ????? my excursion is diesel
  • I've posted on this subject before and will be happy to do so again. I have a 2000 excursion (7.3) and had all the problems with brake cavetation that everyone else has. My brother in law owns a repair shop and he turned them a couple of times before they were too wore for more. So I bought a complete set of rotors and pads from a company on ebay for 299.00, had them installed NO MORE PROBLEM. They weren't cryogenically frozen to my knowledge, just drilled and slotted. I have not touched the brakes in over 50,000 miles, and the thing hasn't shimmied once. The problem appears to be that ford put 1/2 ton brakes on an 8000+ lb SUV (no wonder they need bailed out). Anyway that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
  • daddy818daddy818 Posts: 18
    fphilli1- thanks for stabilizer bar confirmation, as I think this is the cause of "thumping" I hear under front passenger floorboard at times, will replace bushings and hope sound goes away. Cannot afford "cryo" rotors(too expensive), what upgraded rotors and calipers did you put on? (I'm guessing you've had no problems since then) How long ago did you change them?? Thanx !!
    heater1951- Please post what next dealer says/does. Thanx!!
    idgolfjunkie- I've read your previous postings, seems "cryo" rotors work for some people but I cannot afford them, I've actually found slotted/dimple drilled for slightly less than stock ones from dealer(am only replacing fronts). Were your rotors drilled all the way through or "dimple" drilled ? Thanx !! I like to discuss/learn about this truck. Anyone know how to remove the stock radio/cd player, it looks like there are 2 small holes on each side of radio, does that have to do with removal ?? Thanks all for your postings and help, will check back once or twice a week for any replies, good luck to all and lets continue to help one another, thanks again ;)
  • fphilli1fphilli1 Posts: 30
    Sorry this took so long to get back with you. I do not know what kind of upgraded rotors they put on but they seem to have done the trick. Time will tell as I only have about 9,000 on them with no issues. About the radio there is a special tool that you put into the holes and the radio comes right out. If you are thinking about new tones it might be just as cheap to go to Best Buy and have them install a whole system for you. Good luck......
Sign In or Register to comment.