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Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair



  • I was just searching the net to find some good info regarding excursions repair help when I found this site. I didn't realize how wide spread the problems are. I have the "shuddering" while breaking.

    My husband replaced the brake pads and said he needed to replace the rotors as well. All the info on here is very helpful. After he replaced them, a clinking started (right after his day off - of coarse!) and finally made a snap noise yesterday. The steering seemed kind off pulling to the side like I had no steering capability at all and then would work again. Weird. As soon as my husband got home he took the tire, brakes, and rotor off. There was this flat "c" shaped metal piece that fell out of the rotor. The only thing we can think of is that was has been causing the clinking noise. The whole hub seemed very loose and shaky. Maybe moving back & forth as mucha s 1". Should it move that much? I don't ever remember seeing a hub move like that. We parked it :-( but want to get it back on the road asap. We are considering replacing the hub and/or bearings. Has anyone else had this problem? I'd love to hear about what you've tried. Thanks!

    Everyone's comments seem to say they replaced the bearings but never why? So another questions to throw out there would be why did you try that/
  • daddy818daddy818 Posts: 18
    Can anyone tell me where the "cabin air filter" is located in the ex?? Thanks!! Attn: jerm & lanz That 1" of play, in my opinion, is way too much play for a hub. How thick was that C-shaped metal piece that fell out of the rotor and how big in diameter is the piece? Also you refer to bearings in the rotor, on my wifes (and on many others) the rotors are "knock off" rotors which do not have bearings, could you explain with more detail if possible. I think everyone has taken the summer off from this "excursion page" (except me) !! Ok, now that I think about it, I'm talking about an ex w/ 4 wheel drive, I don't know if they even came in 2 wheel drive, if so that would explain the bearings in the (front) rotors, but does the "piece" even look like it was part of the bearing?
  • I bet you half these complaints in here for warped brake rotors are because the lug nuts are not being hand tightened to specification with a torque wrench. If there is any drastic variation in foot pounds of torque that each lug nut is tightened to it will cause the rotor to warp. It's simple thermal dynamics - metal expands when it gets hot, if it expands non-uniformly there can be warpage. That goes for any brake rotor on any vehicle unless otherwise specified (yes you too Honda owners out there). Your average mechanic may not know about this and may or may not care enough to take the time to do it right, usually they just use the old impact gun and hammer on the lug nuts till they won't tighten anymore or use a torque stick (still questionable). The only real way to know it's being done right is to go back after repairs have been done and loosen the lug nuts one at a time and retighten them yourself with a $20 torque stick from Walmart.

    COME TO THINK OF IT, many of the problems talked about on this sight are probably more from poor quality repairs made from mechanics that did not do a thorough job than from Ford.
  • Torqueing the nuts properly is correct. However it is not the answer in this case. I've been tightening nuts properly for years on every car I've ever owned. Only my Excursion has continually had the warpage problem, with or without cryogenically treated rotors. My rotors last for 5-10,000 miles before beginning to chatter when hot. My simple treatment is to remove the rotors...take an absolute minmal cut on the lathe and reinstall. They're good for another 5-10,000 miles. The entire process takes an hour. I suspect that somehow, a lack of sufficient cooling airflow over the rotors when underway may be contributing to the problem. I'm retired now. My service operations did 25-40,000 brake jobs a year. The identical rotors are used on certain Ford trucks without the excessive warpage. The Excursion is substantially heavier than the trucks using the same rotors.
  • My driver's side back window just fell out as well! I had NO idea this would happen, but apparently, it's more common than I thought--especially in the Excursion. We haven't asked our dealer to fix it, but the auto body repair guy said that once the window is delaminated, you can't use that window anymore! I think it's ridiculous that a window just falls off (and it scratched my pain!) What can we do???
  • I found your post while researching similar problems online. I have '02 7.3dsl with 115K miles with exact same problems (and a few more!) that have come on gradually. Most were already bad when we bought it 40K miles ago. Automatic headlights was last thing to quit a few weeks ago. Worked intermittently for several months and finally quit completely. We plan to keep the vehicle indefinitely, so would like to have things working.

    Just wondering if you got yours fixed and what it took?

    Tx, BN
  • I have a 00 ex w/ 7.3L, I have owned it since it was new and now has 215,000. I've had most of problems and EVERYONE has brakes issues. I have a friend that says Ford put 1/2 ton brakes on the heaviest SUV every built. I replaced all the rotors and pads 60,000 miles ago and they have never shuttered once. I just had new tires installed and the service guy told me that I still have about 1/2 the pad left? I purchased all four rotors and pads for 299.00 on ebay from brakelabs and have been thrilled. Yeah, the thing has a lousy electrical system, but the rest of the rig is awesome. I bought mine in Feb 00, since then I have replaced the altenator, rotors and pads, rebuilt the entire front end, and 3 sets of batteries. I had the glow plugs changed at 210,000 just because it was getting a little slow starting and winter is getting close. Since owning my ex for the past 9 1/2 years I have always wondered why GM and Chrysler never built an SUV with a diesel in it. Good luck to all of you.
  • I just put a new radio into my car and replaced the OEM model. I got a harness from Crutchfield and all appears to work. Now I get a the theft light blinking. I can start the car. Is there any solution to this?
  • :sick:
    i had just replaced the fuel pump and im getting 30psi not sure if thats right... ...i already replaced the oxygen sensors so i dont know if that could still be it... i drive on the freeway constantly .. when i get about 10 minutes on the freeway the revolutions will go all the way down and it will just be in idle just enough for the motor to not turn off, even though the its in drive and im stomping on the gas... then ill have to turn it off and on again for it to work another 10 minutes... anyone know on what i can do? think its an electrical wiring problem?
  • the theft light always blinked on mine i think thats just normal
  • Me too. I have owned this truck for 8 years. The theft light has always blinked on the truck.
  • If you go back through the postings others had this problem. I have the same truck as you but mine is a 4x4. I had a similar problem where the truck would just refuse to idle. If I took my foot off the gas it would die. Unfortunatley I am not a mechanic and it was my local Ford dealer that eventually fixed it. I took it in, told them what it was doing, they did a MAJOR tune up and the Monster has been running prefectly ever since. Good Luck! :)
  • Whats up all?? Its been 3 months (+/-) and the brakes are still fine, the rotors and pads from apparently did the trick, and by the way I torque @ 100 ft/lbs. per the owners manual when putting wheels back on. Called dealer(since no one responded to my question posted 2 months ago) regarding location of cabin air filter and he told me that the 2000 Exc. did not show any cabin air filter :surprise: so I guess I'll quit looking. Still no answers out there regarding removal of dash front to get to instrument cluster lights( I need to get special tool to remove radio,2 small holes in front on each side, because FORD put a screw under front edge of radio that holds dash in), can I get tool at Pep Boys,Murrays or Auto Zone or do I have to get at dealer and how much will it cost(since bulbs are like $6.00 each, tool is probably $50.00 or more) ?? OR --- is there an easier way to get to instrument cluster lights?? If no answer this time, I'll get to dealer one of these days and ask them ?? Thanks.
  • can a diy replace glow plugs on a 2005 6.0 diesel
  • bionutbionut Posts: 9
    I'm not as familiar with the 6.0 as the 7.3. It can be done on the 7.3, but it is not for beginners. You have to remove the valve covers to get to them, and sometimes the threads will be stuck. If you break one off in the hole, then you have to pull the heads to have them drilled out. I know the procedure, but I still prefer to leave it to the professionals who have a few tricks to get them loose. I don't use the Stealership, but rather a local performance diesel shop who has lower rates and higher knowledge.
    Good Luck if you decide to give it a try. Let us know how it comes out.

    Still no answer on my question about the VSM replacement on an '02X. Anyone have recent experience they want to share? I have a whole bunch of electrical problems and want to know how many of them might be remedied by this replacement.
  • I have an 03' 6.0 Turbo Diesel Excursion. It has 126,000 on it and I have never had any trouble other than the alternator. Now all of a sudden everything is going down hill. First was the brakes but everyone by now knows how to fix that. When I get a load on the engine I start feeling a vibration and a hum, also when I am driving 50 or above the engine studers. It feels like I am in a car with spark plugs that is missing. Has anyone else had this problem? How did you fix it?
  • thanks for the reply, I think I'll have a shop do it.

    Also I am having trouble with my 05 starting sometimes and also dying when decelerating. I took it to the dealership and they put the computer on it and said I had a high pressure oil leak which they wanted $1k-$3k to repair. Well I talked to a friend and said to call a shop that he has used and they said to change the oil/filter then run it hard for a time and see if that helped, seems that the high pressure oil pump system will get gummy and not hold pressure, so I tried it and it seems to be better!
  • I would believe the second shop. I had the same problem a while back. Now bearing in mind I am no mechanic...the dealer told me that all they did was change the filter and cleaned some value in the system that was gummed up and sticking shut. Whatever they did it worked. The Ex has been running like new ever since. :)
  • I only needed to replace the #1 glow plug which was fairly easy to get at, not under a valve cover just had to remove the tube to the turbo and a electronic module ( swing it out of the way) and i was able to remove/replace it. Thanks for the posts
  • I'm glad you were able to do it that easily. As I said, my experience is with the 7.3 rather than the 6.0. If only they were so easy.
  • Thanks for the info, I'm looking at a '00 7.3L with 233k on it. With what you have delt with on your '00 7.3L would you recommend one with this many miles? I would be using it on the weekends for towing, etc.
  • Hi there, saw your posting and thought I'd put in my 2 cents worth.

    I own an 00 ex ltd, w/ 7.3l, bought it new with 114 miles on it, currently a few miles over 216,000. It will be 10 years old on Feb 1 and its easily the best rig I've ever owned. Sure the brakes on them suck and I'm not impressed with the electrical system, but other than that the vehicle is amazing.

    In the 10 years I've owned mine, I replaced the alternator (122,000), rebuilt the front end, replacing the brake rotors and pads and the ball joints (154,000). I had the glow plugs replaced a couple of months ago because it was getting a bit hard to start and I didn't want to go into winter and have a problem. I'm hoping that I'll get another 216,000 out of it. I have driven it across country a couple of times and made a lot of 1000+ mile trips in it and it is the most comfortable driving vehicle I've ever had.

    I wouldn't be the least bit scared of a powerstroke with 233,000, I have friends that have over 500,000 on theirs and they are still running. Good luck, hope you enjoy becoming an excursion owner.
  • I have a 2004 6.0L with 268,000 miles and I have a starting problem. Alternator and batteries recently replaced. Engine wants to turn over just fine, but won't start. You mentioned that the crank position sensor went bad and #30 fuse failed. When you repaired the crank sensor, did that solve your problem?
  • where can i get the oem front floor mats for the excursion??? FORD says they are obsolete and i really dont want after market crap, any suggestions on where. ive checked bone yards and they dont see these trucks in them so back to the after market. Anyone have a good after market set that actually look good for this truck and fit well too? I have dark parchment color (tan) and am really sick of the hole in the mat i have now, Thanks for reading and hope to hear something soon, Fred in Wisconsin.
  • I haven't checked, but shouldn't they be the same as for any F-250 truck in the same model year series since the X is basically the same body from the middle seat forward? That would certainly widen the search area.

    Good Luck!
  • Hi All,
    I have not received any replies to my original inquiry about the VSM replacement. As bad as the electrical system is on these vehicles, I find it hard to believe that no one has any info. Please let me know if you have replaced this module and what your experience was.
    The folks at the "stealership" assure me that it will fix all of my problems, but of course, when I asked if they will refund my $$ if it doesn't, all I got was a laugh! Doesn't really make me feel real warm and fuzzy about throwing that much cash at them without better information. Please help out if you can.
  • I have a 2000 ford excursion and just put brakes on it.Rotors looked normal but when go to drive it over 30 mph it shakes and pulsates at the steering wheel the drivers side is all problem what could it be! :confuse:
  • Is there a way to lube the door locks on a '00 Excursion without removing the door panel? The rear ones are very tight -- one can only be lifted by hand
  • The strikers need adjusting if you look at them the plastic tube that surrounds it it has a deep groove on the top or the bottom get a tx 50 loosen it up a little tap it up or down (the opposite of the groove ) snug tight and check door
  • Thanks for the advice -- ? strikers; ? tx50
    Sorry -- I don't fiddle with this stuff much
    Thanks again
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