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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions



  • j33dowj33dow Posts: 2
    My son has a 1995 RAM 2500 VAN. He has left Boston and is touring the US and the engine is running hot. He has 5 friends with him and a van full of band equipment. Normally, the temp indicator hovers between the 2nd and 3rd bar. Now is goes to the top of the 3rd and into the 4th. They had it checked in Las Vegas yesterday and the thermostat seemed ok. The tech said is was opening and closing properly and didn't overheat in the shop even after sitting with the AC running in the hot sun for 30 minutes. They will be touring for 2 more weeks in the midwest and can't use the AC plus they only drive 50 MPH when the temp gets too high. The fan is working fine. WHAT IS WRONG??? Partially plugged radiator?? Thanks, Concerned Dad
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Does the van have a fan clutch? If so, check the clutch for proper operation. It may never engage when needed.

    Any competent radiator shop can remove the radiator and flow test it, determining whether or no not it needs replacing.

    Is proper 50/50 antifreeze/water mix in the cooling system? Antifreeze has higher boiling point than water.

    Are there any signs of the engine overheating? The temerature gauge sender can be defective too.
  • farmboy4farmboy4 Posts: 9
    A few years the same thing happened with a Buick station wagon I had. First I installed a back flush kit which is very inexpensive, probably around $10.00 or so now, and easy to install. Then I put some stuff in the radiator to flush it out. This loosens up any stuff in the radiator and thermostat that may plug it up or cause the thermostat to stick. Make sure you let the engine cool down before you back flush it. After I back flushed it out and the water ran out clear, I put more stuff in to flush it again and then back flushed again, just to be sure it was clean. Depending on the condition of the radiator, you may have a few leaks afterwards you didn't have before, in which case you have to deal with that as well. At any rate, I never had any more problem with the car overheating and I had it for about 3 years after that. Good luck.
  • sandrosandro Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 dodge 3500 4x4 dually auto/cummins. i am having transmission oil leaking from the quick disconnect fittings from the tranny cooler. Is there o-rings that can be re-placed to stop the leaks. Or??

    New e-mail
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I recently test drove an '06 Dodge Ram 2500 with Cummins engine, auto transmission, and factory tow package. There was no transmission oil temperature gauge (at least I could not find one). Both Chevy and Ford heavy duty pickups have such a gauge on the instrument panel. Heat is the number one killer of auto transmission when towing heavy loads. Why is Dodge not installing these gauges as standard equipment? While other manufacturers do? Nissan even installs these as standard equipment on 1/2 ton rated Titan trucks with the factory tow package.

    I really cannot understand this. Is it that difficult to offer a complete heavy duty towing package, i.e. heavy duty frame hitch, wiring harness with pigtail, heavy duty transmission oil cooler, finned aluminum transmission pan with extra oil capacity, oil temerature gauge in the instrument cluster, and tow mirrors.

    And for Cummins engine trucks, exhaust temperature gauge (pyrometer) should definitely be a part of the heavy duty tow package.

    Can't Daimler Chrysler figure out that providing a transnmission oil temperature gauge and pyrometer as standard equipment would actually save them money on warranty repairs?

    And please do away with the archaic, clunky shifting 4 speed auto and use a 6 speed Allison. Then you will have a truck that is really something.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I couldn't agree with you more........and don't get me started with gauges that are little more than analog idiot lights.

    However, if the manufacturers had their way the only instruments would be a fuel gauge and a speedometer. That would cut way down on warranty work with customers complaining about low oil pressure or overheating. As long as it can struggle through its 36months/36k that's all it needs to do. :sick:
  • boogie1boogie1 Posts: 6
    :cry: Does anybody know of a good replacement seat. The metal bars under my thighs are killing me. The standard seat is too painful and I can't take it anymore. Even short rides are a pain in the rear. I wish the seat was made of foam instead of metal bars!!!! Does anybody know of a seat that can easily be installed?
  • hudoghudog Posts: 1
    Hello I have a '96 2500,Light Duty, 5.9, Auto
    Not running right. MAP sensor is reading 3 at idle, I feel this is low. What are the proper specs at idle and other rpms


  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Seat made of metal bars? I assume you do not drive a WWII Sherman tank? Did you try one of those seat backrests they sell in just about any auto parts store? Or try a good sheepskin cover.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I have read several complaints about the A/C performance in new '06 Dodge trucks. Are these isolated issues or a widespread problem?
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Don't know about the Rams but Dak system works great in 06
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Well, you will get the 6-speed automatic for 07... the new chassis/cab will have an Aisin unit, the pickups will get a Mopar unit.

    As for gauges, Cummins requires numbered gauges on the dash (all other Rams just have the "Low" and "High" markings). I agree that the trans and pyro gauges would be welcome for towers, but there's really no room for them in the cluster. Most aftermarket gauge sets (usually trans temp, boost psi, and pyro) are mounted either on top of the dash, in the cubby under the radio/HVAC, or on the A-pillar. If there are too many gauges, inexperienced drivers can/will become distracted trying to constantly view them, and liability is far more of an issue to a manufacturer than warranty repair.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • napoleonnapoleon Posts: 16
    I have a 1995 Dodge Ram Van with a headlight problem. I was driving to Chicago and upon arriving I noticed my headlights were not working. I have checked the maxi fuse under the hood as well as the fuse in the glove box both appear to be fine, and obviously have checked both bulbs. Are there fusible links or relays that are also in the circuit this is driving me crazy trying to figure it out.
  • dodgegirldodgegirl Posts: 5
    Hi there, our Check Engine Light has come on and the code is P0138, oxygen sensor voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2. Is there somewhere we can get an exhaust diagram for our truck, 02 Ram 1500 Quad Cab, or does someone know the exact location of the sensors and can explain where they are located. Have contacted several people and now all we are is confused. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • aaronh1aaronh1 Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton 4x4. Recently I noticed that the coast switch with my cruise control is not working. If I hit the coast switch briefly, my speed does not drop at all. And if I hold the coast switch down for more than a second or 2, my cruise control shuts off completely (not just disengages but totally shuts off). Does anyone have any idea what the problem maybe or what to look for?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    More than likely you just have a defective cruise control switch.
  • livers77livers77 Posts: 1
    In my 1997 2500 Dodge Ram the driver side headlight won't turn off, even when the truck is off and the keys are out!?! Has anyone had this problem before and if so can they help me?
  • I just bought a 1998 Dodge Quadcab 3500 with the 24 valve cummins diesel and found a oil leak.I thought it was something simple to fix...WRONG.It is coming from a crack in the timing gear housing.While I was on my way to the dealer it started smoking (white smoke),it never lost oil pressure and never ran hot.I called a wrecker to pick it up,not wanting anymore problem.Well the dealer calls and says that it needs a complete engine,which will cost $21,391.49 crazy huh? I understand getting the oil leak fixed but someone also said the white smoke could be the turbo??? ANY HELP PLEASE
  • keithnkeithn Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 model Ram 1500 Quad pickup.The front drivers tire is rubbing off the outer edge tread! Can anyone offer some sugestions why this is happening.Many Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Try to get a more detailed description from the dealer as to what the actual problem is (and post it here).
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Most likely to be a camber issue, caused either by something bent or very seriously worn. Have the alignment checked by a specialist shop.
  • They said it has low fuel pump lift volume.Fuel injector pump out of time and pressure problems.It has an inop turbo(I dont know what that means).It has an internal cylinder problem,clongblock.They said to fix each individual problem would be higher then the complete engine.I just dont understand how just all of a sudden this happened.Thanks for any advice.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I just dont understand how just all of a sudden this happened.

    I rather doubt that it did happen all of a sudden. I'd guess that these various problems have been patched up as they occured, until it became obvious that it was shortly going to collapse into a heap :sick: . That was probably about the time that the previous owner decided to unload it onto an unsuspecting buyer, before he had to pick up the tab.

    I suggest that you return to the seller with the dealer's diagnosis and negotiate a refund. The dealer is saying that the lift pump is working inefficiently, the injector pump is faulty and is installed out of correct adjustment, that for whatever reason one or more cylinders have problems and a replacement long block is required, and that the turbocharger is inoperative. If all of that is correct, then a complete replacment engine would be the way to go. It would probably cost about the same and would come with a warranty.

    Sadly, the only positive thing I can say, is that there isn't any way you could have caused these problems just by driving the vehicle for a short period.

    Good luck!
  • sandrosandro Posts: 7
    FIXED !! I changed out the oring inside the quick disconnect fitting. 25cent Oring.

  • dqdudedqdude Posts: 1
    My 16 yr old recently bought a 1981 Dodge Ram D50 truck for his first vehicle. It sat up for about 2 yrs when we got it, all we did was tune it up and got it running. Well at the time we got it legal to drive on the road it started messing up. Here's the problem;It starts well and runs fine until the temp. get to operating level it acts as though it runs out of gas, you can then let it idle for a while and it will run fine for about 1/2 mile then it does it again. I have changed the fuel filter, blew out the gas lines, changed the fuel pump, and put a kit in the carburetor and it still does the same. I am at a loss as to what to do next. Help!! I need to get my son out of my car.
  • albealbe Posts: 1
    1999 diesel 4 x4 manual transmission w/quad cab. Occasionally the tach will drop to zero, then resume normal working after a short period of time. Sometimes, a miss can be felt in the engine when the tach drops to zero. All other gauges work properly and the truck runs w/ no other problems. Any advise or solutions would be appreciated.
  • dano4dano4 Posts: 35
    I have seen multiple towing weights for my truck. It is a 2003 RAM 1500 Quad Cab 4WD with short box, 5.7 HEMI, auto. trans., 3.55 rear end.
    The best info I can get says towing capacity of 7550 lb. and payload of 1420 lb. Can anyone confirm this?
    I also do not know if I have a heavy duty tranny cooler. The truck came with a "trailer tow group", but it does not say anything about a transmission cooler.
    Any help is appreciated! Thanks.
  • daleg2daleg2 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC 65 K miles.
    Lately it tends to rumble (in the rear) on take off. It does not do it every time I accelerate, just here and there. Level ground or hills make no difference from what I can tell. When it does rumble, it seems to take a second or two before wanting to accelerate. Other symptoms include when I am stopped with my foot on the brake, it "bumps or lurches" as if someone taps or pushes it from behind. Same thing when I am pulling in at low speed.
    Transmission fluid levels are fine, good color. Oil changes are regular.
    Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
  • loncrayloncray Posts: 301
    How's the fluid levels in the rear differential? Have you had the diffs checked out? I'm no mechanic but your symptoms sound like diffs going bad to me.
  • ramhead1ramhead1 Posts: 15
    If you have Daytime running lights... I would suspect the relay....
This discussion has been closed.