Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

etech1

I have the same problem with my 96 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel truck. Do you notice that the PARK brake light is also on? In Canada my "DAY TIME RUNNING LIGHTS" also go out!
The problem is that the ABS wheel speed sensor's electrical connections are open or corroded, rusted or not making a proper electrical circuit to the ABS electronic system. The Dodge Ram 2500 1996 manual states that the ABS system is an option. Your brakes will still work without this feature. The only thing that bugs me is the dash warning lights are on. The ABS system will not work when this condition exists.

dahuber

May be the rear wheel speed sensor-located on top of the rear differential.

Dave

kilster

Check for a blown fuse under the hood for the Cooling Fan, If its blown then more than likely you have a bad fan motor. Dodge has a new shroud/fan module to fix the problem. The problem isn't related to the wiring for the blower motor that was part of the recall. Your problem i think it the fan behind the condensor for the AC.

kilster

I dont think you have water in your engine, its possible that you picked up water in your fuel, all fuel has it, and you might have got water in the injector lines and Injectors itself. It is true that Cummins will not warranty it for a bad fuel problem. I had a truck I fixed myself for bad fuel, it killed the Injectors, transfer pump. Found that the Aux. Tank had trash in it and found its way to the engine, and the person was using a cheap fuel filter and the water/junk found itself to the Injectors. Only fix for this truck was a new transfer pump, fuel rail, transfer tubes, and Injectors. High Pressure pump was saved. Total repair bill was close to $5000.00. After repairs I found that the AUX. tank has no filter on the pickup side, found out that installing a good inline filter (spin-on filter) for about $100-$200 is alot cheaper the a costly repair bill for bad fuel.

alefour

well the ontario dodge dealer called today and said there is water in the oil and rust on the intake manifold so the 10 month old 2004.5 dodge ram 2500 with the cummins HO deisel would need a new engine at a cost of $16,200. we have told them that we have no idea of how water could get in there. it is a 4x4 so it is already pretty high off the ground. the most water it has seen is going through a little stream about 3-4 inches deep and about 8 foot wide up at pismo beach. even that was several months ago. the dealer says we must have done something to get the water in there. they have only taken off the valve cover to determine this and many techs say it is likely a cracked head. waiting to hear from dodge district rep and taking independent deisel tech down today to get second opinion. wish i could find an expert to testfy if we need to go to court over this new vehicle.

kilster

i'm just curious what kind of air filter have you been using?

medinabob

I also have the same problem on my 96 1500. 2 visits (and about $600) to the repair shop seemed to have fixed the problem. . . until I set the parking brake one day. After releasing the Parking Brake the "intermitent" ABS light and the BRAKE light show up - usually after driving a bit - maybe a mile or so. The lights do go off if the truck is shut down for a few minutes and restarted, but this internitent problem will cause failures in the Emmissions Check (mandatory here in OHIO) and prohibit me from renewing my liscense.

Anyhow, the truck seems to run fine, but I find I'm constantly looking at the DUMMY LIGHTS to see if they dim. Think I'll try the other suggetions I've read here regarding the Speed Sensors, etc.

Bob

etech1

Bob
Here are a couple of links that may be helpful. http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/BrakesABS1.html
The first is a VOLVO link but lists a lot of good info. Especially for my very rusty rear wheels! I noticed while driving over a large hole this summer that my ABS warning light problems disappeared, for a while! Anyway, now I'm thinking rust & metal fragments contaminating the magnetic wheel sensor's ability to send a proper reading to the computer.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl923f.htm

lawdawgfl

I am looking at a 04 with 15,000 miles on it, Car Fax comes back clear. My question is how do I know for sure it is a Laramie and not just a placard placed on it. The bumpers are the same color as the paint “Red” and there are “Ram” stickers on the side above the 1500 and on the back. Does the Laramie come in a Sport package, if not why would the bumpers be the same or is this normal? Also how can I tell what the gears are in the rear end, it does have the Hemi with 20” rims. One last question, besides trying to do a burn out how can I tell if the rear end has a limited slip? Thank you for any help you might be able to give.

dustyk

I can't answer your Laramie question. I would consult with a Dodge dealer who likely still has the 2004 sales order codes. A VIN number check through Chrysler would verify that, too.

As to the rear axle gearing and limited slip, open the glove box door and you should see a label affixed to the inside. This lists all major mechanic equipment.

Regards,
Dusty

fourfairways

Your message seemed related to a question I have, so I was hoping to tap you for advice. I have an '02 Ram 1500 that has about 50K miles. We're getting some significant highway bounce and a tire wear pattern that seems to denote skipping. I plan to replace the shocks and want to maximize ride comfort; heavy use and off-roading are not issues. Any suggestions as to which brand/model might be best?

fourfairways

Did you ever get an answer to this question? I have the same issue.

blkhemi

Dusty's right. And as for the Laramie Sport, If the grille is body color also, then it is legit. The option code is called Sport Appearance Group.If the 20's are standard equipment and not some add-ons, then as Dusty mentioned, look inside the glovebox and it should say something like "special axle ratio". If not then look-out, as I've known a few folks who've put the 20's or even 22's on there RAM without the right rear-end and they all have blown out their rear-ends.

blkhemi

With the water and rust problems, the only other thing I could come up with is that with the truck being in SoCal someone had to have driven the truck in salt water for astained periods of time. Salt water will rust metal very quickly. But if not the case, wait to here back from the district rep. Still not satisfied and can't get to any higher-ups at DC, file suit. This is a fairly new truck and since DC doesn't want to admit fault, what other choice do you have? You could pay for the new motor at $16k, but it's not your fault. I'm just curious, what is California's lemon-law requirements? Since the vehicle is still under warranty at less than 2 yrs. old, you should be able to invoke the lemon-law. You should consult with California's BBB and let them know what's going on. Here's a true story:

I once owned a Ford F-350 dually with the 6.0L diesel. On one trip home from the construction site, the truck started to make strange noises (whomp-whomp). I was on the I-90 Mass Turnpike and no way of stopping. So I drove about another 3 miles to pull over on the shoulder. As I did this, the truck completely died. Mind you this was a 5-month old truck. One of my employees was also coming down the pike and he pulled over to see what was wrong. He and I couldn't determine what intially happened, so I had the truck towed home. The dealership was closed, so I couldn't take it there. The very next morning, I phoned the dealership and they said that they will come and tow it in. So at about 4 pm that day, the service manager called and said that I "locked-up" my engine. WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!?????????????
"Yes SIr, your motor is destroyed and the estimated repair bill is about $18,900" No way. I told him were you aware that I just got my truck serviced from you guys 2-days ago? He was not. But he said even so, they weren't responsible . So to make a long story short, I got in touch with the district guy. Didn't work. Got in touch with the head of service at Ford. Didn't work. Called International who supplied the diesel to no avail. So I invoked the lemon-law. Within 2 days, Ford said they were ready to settle this matter. They were willing to install a new diesel but use the same old turbo. NO WAY. For all I know, it could have been turbine failure that caused the engine to go kaput. They didn't want to put a new turbo on, so I told them that I was moving forward with my suit. 1 day later, they were ready to repay all monies that I paid for the truck($48,988) plus all ownership cost in the previous months($3718).

So my advice to you is to get tough with these people. Hope this helps.

dustyk

I checked mine and it lists the sales code and three separate items for the rear axle:

Axle ratio, differential size in inches, and limited slip

Regards,
Dusty

lawdawgfl

Thanks for all of the help. The grill is the same color as the bumpers, and the 20’s are stock. Worked out the price for my trade in, looks like I will be picking it up on Tuesday. Again thanks for all the help. I’ll be sure to check to glove box to see about the limited slip, I have a feeling it does though. Everything else has checked out, apparently it was a one owner trade in from a company. Since it only has 15k miles I am not to worried about any problems that might come up since it is still under factory warranty.

blkhemi

So does mine Dusty.

cowboyrod

">On my Dodge I am having a lot of problems with the right rear wheel. I have tried for a good 2 years on getting the problem fixed but I can never find the answer. When you are going down the road and you have to stop fast the right rear wheel will lock up and let lose and then lock up again over and over till you have stopped. I live on gravel and it locks up 95% of the time. I have put 3 master cylinders and new brakes and drums on it and everything. My tires don't last very long and I need to get this fixed or the truck is going bye bye and I will get a new one. I hope that you can help me. Thanks Rodney :shades: <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/CowboyRod-Dodge/dodge.jpg"

dustyk

It sounds like a problem at the rear wheel that's locking up or you have a bad ABS Hydraulic Control Unit.

Pull the ABS fuse and see if the problem remains.

Regards,
Dusty

P.S. Nice looking RAM!

usabassman

Dear lastetson:

Two weeks ago, I, was driving home from Bloomington, Illinois and the transmission quit working. It did not make any noises or anything. I have tried to get it to shift into any gear, but all forward, reverse and park does not engage.

What happen to your transmission? I have a 2000 4X4 Dodge Ram 1500. I have also heard that Dodge knows about this transmission problem and is failing to notify about it, (this could be just a rumor). Also have heard that a worm gear goes out in the rear section of transmission due to a snap ring or cotter pin breaking in the gear.

A friend of ours had also the same experience with his 4X4 Dodge Ram, the transmission quit while driving down the road.

Answer to your question; (Yes, this might be a Lemon :lemon: Law problem and some indepth research needs to be done into this).

BassMan (Central Illinois)

101vet

I knocked off my air dam on my 99 QC 4x4 and if it was important enough to get a new one or can i just leave it the way it is.

kilster

I would leave it off, its more there just for looks

travisbacon

Hello. I have recently run the tank dry on my 2002 Dodge RAM and am having trouble restarting it. I have put 8 gallons back in her but still no firing. She stalled out going up hill and I thought that may be contributing to the problem but it still won't start after towing it to a flat spot. The fuel pump does smell like it is working. Does anyone have any trouble shooting suggestions?
Thanks Travis

stumper100

Hi there dude, I have a 02 Dodge Ram with 32000 miles on it and all of a sudden my engine light popped on, when I run the diog. I get a C-Code and then 00 00 but the light will not go off. What is wrong with my Baby.

blkhemi

When you ran the tank dry, more than likely you starved the fuel pump. If the pump isn't priming when you first turn the ignition, that may be it. You may also want to try and start it on a downward slope or hill. Check all of your electrical connections also.

blkhemi

Have you cross-referenced the codes? If your scan tool doesn't have an erase code on it, the light will not go off, Take it to Autozone, and they'll erase it free of charge.

big_jt

im driving a 1996 Ram 1500 and i have recently ran into this problem. This truck has been running great for me and my father who gave it to me. Before i left came back to college, we had a service check-up and everything was fine on the truck. I just started up the truck one day to get some gas and noticed that both the ASB light and the Brake light both came on. I didnt notice any difference when braking. These lights are getting annoying as hell and i want to fix the problem or get it fixed, but i am very strapped on cash and cannot afford to fix the problem if its expensive. my dad has vowed to help pay for some of it. aside from that, where would be a good place to get this checked? i dont want to chance anything by driving and possible having something go wrong. i have seen talk about the rear differential sensor. this truck has some very high mileage on it, very high, but has run great. anhy advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

bjt

The fuel rail will be empty and the engine controller will take several minutes to prime the system. If you know how to bleed the fuel line do that and check for fuel. (key on, do not start, will pressurize the system)Then close the line and try starting.

dustiem

It might be a coincidence but I can't start my 1997 Dodge Ram if the truck sits out in the rain for a day or two. It has spark from the plugs. After I tried to start the truck the plugs smell like gas. Everything sounds normal when I try to start the truck, it just doesn't fire. Does anyone have any suggestions?

cantankerous

The fuel gauge in my 2004 Diesel Quit and I ran my diesel out of fuel. In failure mode the gauge went to mid scale - half a tank. I added 6 Gallons and it started right up. still showed a half tank. I took it to the dealership and reported it had run out of fuel while registering half tank and the warranty replaced the tank pump and the sending unit.

More to your diagnosis. Can you detect fuel pressure(?) or flow from the tank pump?

Is the vehicle fuel injected or carburated? Fuel injection rails have high pressure fuel lines requiring a 40-70 PSI fuel gauge. Carburation takes lesser pressure 6-10 PSI fuel gauge.

Any in line filter you can open to see if fuel is moving? An electric pump will push fuel without the engine cranking. A mechanical pump needs the engine cranking. I had a Chevy diesel suburban that had an electric pump in the tank and a mechanical pump at the engine block. Push/Pull. I had a pinhole in the bottom of the mechanical pump and the electric pump would force fuel out in a strong stream with just Ignition on. (That too was a warranty claim)

Can you hear the tank pump run up pressure? when you turn the key from "off" to "run" before engaging the starter?

My thought is once you run them dry, Chrysler, has no confidence in tank pump.

dustyk

That sensor in the rear differential is a likely suspect for your problem.

Regards,
Dusty

luwagner

Hello,
First time forum user, so please forgive my ignorance in advance. I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500, with what appears to be a trip computer problem. At any time, the trip computer will error out with a "C Cd" on the display (for all of the display options) and then go back to the normal display (for all the display options). I have tried to correlate this with a specific action or time, but it is totally random, but seems to be happening more and more often. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

napoleon

Well the saga continues. I was attempting to start my 5.9L gas engine. when you turn the key your test lights normally come on... well my check engine light did not come on. I took it to a shop in ohio and the mechanic disconnected two relays behind the master cylinder and replaced them and the relays started clicking rapidly. and now i had a check engine light when you turned the key. we turned the key off and then back on success! it started. well i paid him 200 bucks and headed down the road. Not so fast buddy! I spent the night in perrysburg oh only to wake up in the morning with the same problem turned the key no check engine test light and no start. I got dressed and climbed out of the van popped the hood and removed the relays and put them back in. clicking noices started again from the relays when around and started the vehicle. check enging light stays on until you shut it down and restart it to clear the trouble codes after a relay has been removed. i called the mechanic and told him of my misfortune and he suggested there may be corrosion in the connectors. he suggested i buy some electronic parts cleaner and spray that into the connectors, that would fix the problem. well i sprayed all the connectors very well and thought they were ready to provide another 150,000 miles started the engine and everything was running great.so i spent the next day going to michigan make a few stops and went back to sleep in perrysburg (i deliver small packages) when i woke up the next morning same problem did not start. remove and replug relays starts right up. so does anyone have any idea why this is happening any clue at all would be helpful as this vehicle is my work vehicle and it has to carry me around the midwest HELP!

rons2

in cold weather (I live in southern Ontario, Canada) my truck will not start
It turns over fine but will not fire
my mechanic found out if you turn the key on and wait till the lights and alarms go off you hear a clicking noise, when it stops then start the truck.
well that worked last spring. it was ok all summer, but now I have the same problem when it's cold.
we replaced a relay but same problem.
Anybody know what's wrong?
Ron

cowboyrod

Hello,
I sorry that it has been a few days before I could send this to you. I was wondering what fuse to pull because I don't have any I don't think. I have made a Fuse and Relay diagram for you so that maybe you could help me out. Thanks for the help and I hope to hear from you. :shades:
P.S. The one's with stars next to them are the places were there is a fuse or relay.

rockinkgin

I have a '96 ram 2500 Diesel 4x4. my fuel mileage has gone to pot. Was getting 18-20 mpg now down to 14. Also, does not seem to have any power. Can anyone send me in the right direction?

lastchance

Used 1997 dodge ram extended cab. V8 - 318 or 360 (Not sure) 148,000 miles.
Bought it used 7 months ago.

Started out driving to work today no problems. Stopped and turned truck off. After 10 min tried to restart truck and it turned over and tried to run but acted like it had no fuel... chug, chug chug, die. After a few attempts it was a lost cause.
Checked a bunch of stuff and then Called a friend and chain towed it home, got it to the house and now when I try to start it, it will roll over but no chug, chug at all... just rolls and rolls.
I have checked fuses, relays and made sure I had fuel in the tank.... I am thinking it is the fuel pump or sending unit. I don't have a book and can not afford the $25.00 they want for one. Looking for any other ideas or suggestions.
New pump costs near $225.00 at autozone...

Anyone do this replacement before? is it something a handyman can do? I can not afford the cost to have the shop do the work but am pretty handy if I can find a cheap How to book (checking the library tomorrow) or know what to watch out for. I would figure someone on the world wide web would have published a step by step on this but I can not find one.

Any help, suggestions or advice would be great.... I can walk the 8 miles to and from work for a while but with bad weather on the way I need to get this truck fixed.

Thanks in advance,
Chance

enojon2

11.5 IS THE BEST IS HAVE GOTTEN AND THOUGHT I GOT 12 ONE TIME. REPLACED INTAKE WITH AIRAIDE AND THROTTLE BODY SPACER. I RUN IT HARD AND SOMETIMES HARDER BECAUSE I HAVE TAKEN IT BACK TWICE FOR THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTING PROBLEMS AND I STILL GET ABOUT 300-315 MILES TO 26 GALS.

enojon2

THEY SAID IT WAS THE SULPHUR IN THE GAS IN ARIZONA, HAVE BEEN IN LOUISIANNA FOR THE LAST WEEK BUT IT STILL SENDS THE METER TOO FAR OVER FULL. DID FINALLY START ACTIVATING THE 5 GAL SENSOR AT THE PROPER LEVEL. STILL NOT SATISFIED WITH DODGE THOUGH. TOOK IT BACK AND LEFT IT FOR THREE MORE DAYS. SAID THEY REPROGRAMED THE PCM, BUT THE MAINTAINANCE MGR AT JIM CLICK FORD WASN'T HAPPY WITH IT. THEN THE SAME NONSHIFT/REDLINE/HIT REV LIMITER HAPPENED. WENT BACK AND PUT HIM IN THE TRUCK AND SHOWED HIM WHAT THE TRUCK WAS DOING. HE SAID HE DIDN'T KNOW WHAT TO SAY AND NEEDED TO TAKE IT TO A DODGE STORE AFTER MY UPCOMING 15OO MILE TRIP. THE TRUCK HAS 4.10 GEARS BONE HEAD ME FOUND THE STAMP ON THE AXLE, BUT IT STILL HAS NO POWER/TORQUE TO TURN THE TIRES WHEN STANDING ON THE BRAKES. GUESS IT'S OFF TO THE LEMON LAWYER OR THE TROUBLE SHOOTING HQ IN MEMPHIS TO FIRE SOME BUTTS UP. THANKS. :mad:

sport34

I have a 2005 Toyota Tacome v6 245hp. A couple of my co-workers have Hemi's, one is an 04 the other an 05. Both are always bugging me about my baby truck. One day after work we went out for some friendly comparisons. The little truck absolutely killed the Hemi's, dead stop quarter mile, about 3 truck lengths and 20mph roll ons all the way to top end, the further we went the more distance between. Needless to say they don't bug me anymore. Oh ya I get 28mpg on the highway, they get 15mpg. Tht's the truth hemi boys.

blkhemi

I don't know what they were doing with their trucks, but not only have I completely smoked '05 Tacoma's, but completely shredded Tundra's even the ones with the new powerful 4.7L. My HEMI is not modified and I get to 60 in 6.9 seconds. Unless your Tacoma is an X-Runner(I know those little things are fast, but not quite as fast as my Dakota R/T), you'd get spanked too. Interesting, I'd love to know how you manage to get 28 mpg when the Tacoma V6 is rated only for 16/21(6-speed) and 18/22(auto)? Are you sure your co-workers actually have HEMI's and not some HEMI badges with 3.7L or 4.7L under the hood?

bearclaw1

I'm getting what sounds like a rocker arm noise, has any one else had this problem? The dealer said that valve train noise is common with the 5.7 and they are not interested in fixing my truck. I have used only Mobile 1 since new. Please help.

loncray

Me, I don't care if a Toyota can go faster'n my Cummins Ram. She goes as quick as I need her to, and I can pull any Toyota. With the brakes on. Sideways. Oh, and I get 20 mpg on the highway. Heh heh! :P

206dodgeguy

:confuse: Maybe this has already been covered, but I'm slowly sorting through the messages and haven't come across it yet. I just purchased a 94 Ram 1500 with about 133K on it. It ran perfect for about 3 days and then I came out the other morning to find some tranny fluid on the ground beneath the truck. If I'm parked on level ground, there's no leak. My driveway is only slightly angled and the fluid seems to be coming from the back of the engine area (forgive my non-expertise here). Is this something I need to worry about? I'm planning on having the fluids flushed and the seals/gaskets replaced on it soon, but should I worry about my tranny? There's no slippage when I'm driving and the fluid level seems to be at MAX when I check it, so I'm a bit perplexed... Thanks for any info you might have! :confuse:

206dodgeguy

I didn't buy my truck to go fast, I bought her to be a truck!

blkhemi

No, valvetrain noise isn't common on HEMI's. I'd go to another dealer for a second look if I were you.The only thing you should be hearing is the rumble coming from the exhaust. How many miles does yours have on it? Mine has 51,500 on it and it's as quiet and solid as the day I bought it.

blkhemi

A TOYota? This can't be serious. I don't remember a Toy being able to tow 8000 pounds on 1500 model. I don't remember a Toy that has a frame as stout as a Ram. Oh, and I bought mine to be a truck, but also to have fun with too because what's the point of buying a HEMI??? Even Dodge commercials show the HEMI and Cummins trucks spankin the competition.

mac24

Oh please...........28mpg from your Toyota V6? Makes it hard to take your other claims seriously doesn't it. :confuse:

mrg00dwrench

Dusty, hi. Would the rear differential be the same part as the rear wheel speed
sensor? I have the same problem as big_jt, only I have a '98 1500Ram. My ABS and Brake light both went on at the same time, and my speedometer does not kick in until I reach 25 mph. Also, hard is replacing this part? Please reply as soon as possible, as I only have one week to find a sollution before I am forced to sell my truck...and I DO NOT!!!! want to sell it. 'Only' has 110,000 miles on it, and I love it with a passion!

in the mean time, heres a few pictures. *cry* i will miss my truck if I have to sell it.



awww, the good and bad memories alike...



ohhh ok Ill stop. who knows, maybe someone will find pity in my poor soul and help me out. Well...thanks!

dustyk

Was the purpose of your sophomoric post intended to pronounce your assumed moral or intellectual superiority and childish ego? Even if we were to believe you there&#146;s a lot of information and facts that were omitted. The comparison of the speed of a Tacoma that weighs between 3180 to 4135 pounds to a Ram that weighs in at anywhere from 4919 to 5510 pounds seems obviously silly at the very outset. What would happen if you put 800 pounds in the bed of that Tacoma and tried it again?

The RAM has a 4100 to 8850 pound towing capacity to the Tacoma&#146;s 3500 to 6500, and a bed length of 75.9 inches to 98.3 compared to the Tacoma&#146;s 60.3 to 73.5 inch bed. You could&#146;ve put that little truck up against a RAM 3500 for all we know. Heck, even the V6 RAM is rated to tow a Tacoma behind it. Comparing a 265 HP Tacoma to a 345 HP RAM is comparing apples to oranges, a sphere-like shape being the only common feature.

But as one other poster mentions, most RAM owners bought them to be a truck, meaning to haul things bigger or heavier than the capabilities of a Tacoma. The Hemi engine in the RAM was designed for power, not necessarily speed. The fact that the RAM when compared to other FULL SIZE trucks does so well in performance is an artifact that cannot even be measured in Tacoma terms, and a justifiably proud tribute to Dodge-Chrysler engineers.

Dusty