Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions



  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Well, could be the EGR, especially if you say it idles poorly after warm up. The fuel pump should produce a steady sound at idle.

  • I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 5.9L with 101,000 miles. I dont know what kind of rear end it has. The transmission shifts fine when i am gentle, but when i work it, it shifts rougher. It is a quick, rough shift, is this normal or a beginning of a trans problem?
  • I replace everything that the overhaul kit came with the bands, gaskets, clutches, o-rings, seals, everything that's why this no reverse thing has my mind gone. I order the magazine from a Dodge/Chrysler web site along with the overhaul kit. I went through the manual page by page and the only solution in there was change the direct clutch and spring. I did just that, and still no reverse. I don't get it all other gears work just fine. what do you think???????????
  • I took my '01 1500 RAM 5.9L on a 200 mile trip and left the vehicle unattended for 6 days in a parking lot. The vehicle was running fine when I left it. Upon return, I tried to start it and it turned over fine, but would not start, as if it was not getting fuel. I saw that the fuel gauge was pegged at empty although it had 1/2 a tank went parked. I thought someone stole the fuel and added two gallons, but there was no difference. I had it towed to a mechanic late that night and he ;looked at it the next day. It started after he had attached the diagnostic plug without any other tampering. It worked fine for several days, but I have lost confidence in taking the truck on extended drives. Any experience with not starting with the fuel gauge pegged on empty when there is over half a tank?
  • I have a '99 Ram 2500 with the 5.9L i changed bulbs in fog lamps, and fuses are good in fuse panel under hood and inside cab, but they still do not work. Any other suggestions to try would be greatly appreciated.
  • Wish my old chevy had forward gears instead of reverse, witch is all i have now after only 2 loads of fire wood. i have atsg manual and a number of things can cause no reverse with that new a truck i would suggest a new or used trans. or have pro. shop rebuild or fix it.Your trucks not quit like mine (junk truck no title chevy)But getting back to it some salvage yards that tak in wrecks may be some good deals . i did it with transfer case it was good just make sure so sorta garantee wether it trans. works or time i love straight drives
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Well, a number of things could cause this symptom. Inadequate oil flow or low pump pressure is usually the culprit. Low, dirty or oxidized transmission fluid can be the cause, a dirty (restricted) transmission filter or a restricted, partially clogged anti-drain back valve, or clogged shift body are also likely causes.

    My advice is replace the transmission filter, flush the system, clean or replace the anti-drainback valve, and install fresh new ATF+3.


    Best regards,
  • I have a 97 Ram 1500. After sitting a week, I started it with no problem. The next day it wouldn't start. Now, it starts randomly when its cold and runs fine but when I shut it off it won't restart. I pulled a plug and there is no spark. I can smell gas so I don't think fuel is the problem. Can this be the computer?
  • I wonder if anyone can help me my dodge ram 1500 5.2 was running fine. I recently had her parked for about three months now the car idles very rough and it seems to be worse at take-off or after stopping at a light and then going.
    I have tried some dry gas and 1 tank of new fuel . It seems to be getting worse. I have not driven her on the road since this trouble. Please Help
  • loncrayloncray Posts: 301
    Dusty is the expert here, but at a guess I'd say there's a chance your battery is going dead. The Chrysler batteries are notorious for going bad early. Have your battery checked - esp. to see if one cell has gone bad.
  • Thanks for the reply.....The battery is OK and the motor cranks fine, it just won't fire. On the other hand, I could try to start it at a random time and it fires right up and runs great. But then I shut it off and it won't refire. Rich
  • dalejdalej Posts: 3
    I had a problem with my headlight switch. The park lights would either go off or not come on. When that happened, I had no tail lights or clearance lights (even tho I had headlights).

    I replaced the switch and it solved the problem. When I looked at the old switch, it was evident it had been too hot. At O'Rielly Auto parts it cost $16.99 for '97 model 3500, Dodge 5.9L diesel.

  • sorry the truck has a small v8 the plugs have about 20,000 miles on them any suggestions about running rough?
  • etech1etech1 Posts: 11
    If you are experiencing an Electrical problem, first look at the obvious:
    Have you recently installed anything like aftermarket Fog Lamps, Stereo etc?
    Has anyone (including so called reputable mechanical establishments!) recently changed an electrical component on your truck?
    These trucks are built with factory installed safety appliances that are made to “original” specifications, such as the fuses and circuit breakers. As so, any additional load on a circuit (although your trucks normal purchased “AS IS” Electrical load is already factory increased by up to 3X {wire gauge, fuse and circuit breaker current carrying capacity) to allow for minor enhancements. A simple check on recently installed electrical items will normally identify the problem device! EG;
    My headlights were Blinking on and off, problem was, someone put a single contact bulb in the duel contact rear right side brake/parking lamp socket. Everything at the time seemed to work! I didn’t notice the difference in brightness between right and left brake lights. I eventually started to smell the firewall wiring harness burning!
    Another annoying electrical problem that will cost big bucks is bad connections!
    EG; A few years ago (in a FORD!)
    After driving and my truck reached operating temperature it was hard to or would not start. Sounded to me like dead batteries so I replaced them. No luck, and the same problem existed. I replaced the Alternator, thinking my Batteries were not charging. Ended up being a simple problem with a bad connection at the +(POS) battery connection at the starter.
    When the Engine was cold the electrical connection was good and the vehicle started no problem (metal contracts (tightens) when cold) after driving for a few miles the electrical connection at the starter expanded and no longer was able to conduct the amount of current in order to crank the engine! Lots of money spent for nothing that a cleaning with emery cloth would have fixed!
  • Hey guys,
    I wonder if anyone can give me an idea of what to check on my 1997 dodge ram 1500. It has a small V8 and is 2 wheel drive. Stick shift , with 106,000 miles. My truck sat about 3 months. I was waiting for a buddy to put in new brake line. After I was back on the road the truck runs very rough.
    It seems to run worse at takeoff from 1st gear.
    I have put in a fresh tank of gas and a bottle of dri-gas.
    Any suggestion?
    Should I look to battery,alternator? Is there a fuel filter? Computers? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • hey guys,
    I really need a little help. Today we changed the plugs and cleaned the throttle body and changed the plugs. The truck a 1997 dodge ram 1500 is running like a bucking bronco. It idles ok sittling still it is only after I take it out on the road and bear down on it. Please give any suggestions
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    As this occurred after the truck had be standing for a while, there's a good chance it could be caused by corrosion giving a high resistance at on of the sensor connectors. First thing to check is if the computer is showing any codes. I'm not sure if you can view them on the odometer on your truck, but if not then Autozone will pull them up for free.
  • i have a 99 dodge ram 2500 4x4 diesel can anybody please explain the process to change the front rotors. please help!
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    My first suspects would be the ignition components and then the hall effect sensor in the distributor. Yes, there could be a cumputer problem but these don't have high failures rates.

    Good luck,
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926

    Well, since this is a fresh disassembly/rebuild, did you check the rear band? If misadjusted you'd either slip real bad or have no reverse.

    If the direct clutch spring is not broken, is it binding during reassembly and collapsing?

    Other possibilities include a loss of front clutch operation, a missing or failed overdrive thrust bearing, or your missing a check ball in the valve body.

    Good luck!

    Best regards,
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    It's possible that the draining of the fuel tank could lose the fuel pump prime. I once ran out of gas on my '03 Dakota and I know I had put enough gas in the tank. Yet it was a bear to get restarted.

    On the other hand I've seen a few fuel pump relays go intermittent. It might be worth checking.

    Best regards,
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926

    My advice would be to start with replacing the ignition components, such as distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, etc. If the fuel filter is okay I'd next suspect a bad catalytic converter, stuck EGR valve, a vacuum leak (rubber hoses), or a bad intake manifold gasket.

  • I just bought a 2001 Dodge 1500 4x4. This thing seems great so far but i've only had it for one day. It has 132,000 miles on it. I was just wondering, with that many miles, what the experts think im going to have to do to keep this truck alive and what problems should i be expecting to have to deal with in the future. How many miles should i be able to get out of it? I was hoping around 300,000. Am i being naieve?
  • I have exactly the same problem on my 2001 Ram 2500. Did you have any success in finding a replacement?
  • I have 1 1997 dodge ram 2500 that will not shift out of first gear. I tried replacing the speed sensor, but that was not the problem. Any suggestions? Thank you.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Dodge truck engines have a reputation for going severe distances in terms of miles and years, assuming reasonable care and maintenance. In ny area up until a few years ago, there was a fellow that had a early seventies Plymouth Scamp (2dr hardtop Valiant, like the Dodge Dart Swinger) with a 318 V8. It had 505,000 miles on it without a tear down or valve job.

    I typically see Dodge trucks with 180 - 200K without anything major replaced (rings, bearings, etc.) My sons '91 V6 Dakota went 290K with only a timing chain replacement.

    Dodge powerplants are solid.

    Best regards,
  • mills2mills2 Posts: 2
    thanks schmedly, I was recently in an accident and the radiator needed replaced. Sure enough I'd been driving with an empty radiator. I'm not sure how I didn't overheat the engine. Filled her up and running fine and no longer getting the check gauges.
  • kalvinkalvin Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 HO cummins. When I rev the motor in neutral, and let off, my motor Idles down very rough and usually miss two or three times. Compared to idleing down very smooth. I had a problem with the wiring to my crankshaft positioning sensor grounding out. Dodge fixed it, but the rough idling is still there. Where should I start looking for problems?
  • Did you ever figure it out?
  • I have a 2002 Ram 1500 4x4, Quad Cab, all that good stuff.. i bought it used and have had it for almost a year now.. my latest trouble with it i believe has something to do with the security system. I went to get in it and it wouldn't unlock by my clicker thing, so i unlocked the door with the key. When i opened the door i noticed i have no overhead lights. It starts and i can drive it, i have headlights, tail lights, brake lights, my radio works, and my power windows work. but thats it. My entire cluster is dead, the switch to turn my headlights, overhead, cargo, the radio and cruise control buttons on the steering wheel,horn, turn signals, hazards, the overhead computer, all of that does not work.. but the red security light is on constant... i have checked fuses, disconnected the battery, even called the dealership and they didn't know what it was. this is the latest in a list of problems i have had.... a friend mentioned something about a valet lockout....anyone have any ideas????
This discussion has been closed.