Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions



  • Hi All

    I have a 95 dodge ram 1500 4x4 5.2 litre. i am trying to replace the front shocks on it and i am stumped. how do you get the shock out? do the coil springs need to come out? i noticed where the top shock bolt is there is 3 bolts and i am not sure if that's the shock tower or the bolts holding the spring in. any help would be appreciated.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    Did you mean 6k miles. If he has 60k miles on a truck that isn't 1yr old, I'd like to know where he's been driving(lol).

    The Cummins is a very tight engine when new, which means the fuel economy will not be best when new, but I've owned 12 CTD's in the past 15 years, and this is the first time I've experienced this. I also thought it could be the new lo-sulfur diesel that's dragging my economy, but who knows.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Let's bolster the MPG: Dodge Ram Real World Numbers discussion with questions about fuel economy :)

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • kilsterkilster Posts: 55
    Just for your info, I just serviced his truck today, 62k miles, was bought in December. We haul campers and boats. His an 06 mega 62k, I run part time, I have a 05 quad bought last July and pushing 30k already and 2 other friends one an 03 quad dually with 285k miles and the other 05 quad with 192k miles. Trust me these trucks dont sit still long, and I have to service all of them. We put the truck thru there paces and really no major problems but one. Bad fuel on the 03, killed the injectors and fuel system. Most all of them are getting 12-15 loaded and anywheres from 17-21 unloaded.
  • I am having the same problem with my 2001 1500 4x4 off-road. It has happened twice, the first time i started it up, backed out of my drive way, and it dies. then it wouldn't start. It would turn very strong but not start. The next morning it started right up. It ran perfect for about a month. I went out this morning and it has happened again. I took it to my dodge dealer for service after the first time and they said everything was fine with the fuel pump and everything. Any help?
  • Hey, i am having the same problem with my truck not starting. This is the second time actually. It will turn very strong but just won't start. I had it serviced and they checked the fuel pump and found nothing. They were stumpped because none of my engine lights are on. The first time it happened, it wouldn't turn and then the next morning i went out and it started right up and ran fine till now wich is a month later. Any Help???
  • dahuberdahuber Posts: 53
    Top three bolts hold the shock retainer. The shock can be changed separate from the spring-the spring will not need to come out. One large bolt on bottom can be REAL difficult to get out.

    BTW, I changed from the OEM to Edelbrock IAS last year on my 01 Ram 1500 and have been pleased with the upgrade.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Is this the original transmission? If yes, the truck was probably never used for any serious towing. Otherwise it would be on at least second transmission now. If it is the original, in all probablility it will need an overhaul soon.
  • joepcar2joepcar2 Posts: 2
    try having someone check the crank and camshaft sensors
  • davelyonsdavelyons Posts: 1
    Okay this truck has had 3 tranny's crank and cam sensor replaced twice, new main computer, and new upshift solnoid and some other electrical parts inside the tranny.

    But the problem is still here.

    It is stalling under power in forward gear and it is worst when turning left. This truck could run all day in reverse without any problems. When we replaced the upshift solnoid two weeks ago ran great for a week and now is starting all this stuff all over again.

    I am thinking it is electrical problem (Shorting) going to the tranny is there a wiring harness somewhere hidden. This truck has been nothing but problem since it was bought new in 96 only has 145,000 miles
  • dodgefandodgefan Posts: 3
    The trouble here is that the ABS and Brake warning lights on our Dodge Ram stays on constantly. The engine dies when we're slowing or about to come to a complete stop. The fuel gauge and speedometer are not functioning properly. Any info on the matter will be appreciated.
  • bigred11bigred11 Posts: 3
    So I think I have it figured out. Its all about the wiring of the ignition wires. If they are too close together then they will interfere with one another. here is the article from chrysler and a step by step wiring order of how they should be:

    I tried re-wiring them and it worked for a shortwhile before it started missing again, so I at least touched on the problem, im going to keep trying.
  • trip210trip210 Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem that turned out to be a bad battery of all things. Engine would turn over but not start. It would start occasionally if I gave it gas, but died as soon as I let off. Hope your fix is as simple.
  • ahavensahavens Posts: 6
    I had all of the same problems on my 1999 (Except the fuel gauge). The ABS and brake warning lights, as well as the speedometer, were taken care of by replacing the rear wheel speed sensor (Which you can only get from a dealer), and the stalling was fixed by replacing the fuel pump.
  • dimsterdimster Posts: 10

    I have a 2004 1500/ 4.7 Dodge Ram Quad Cab Truck. I have a 3" body lift and have leveled the front end. I have a 3:90 rear end gear/ 285/70/ 17 tires and have K&N Performance air filter systems installed. My loss of power occurs during hot weather. Just going up the slightest of inclines causes my truck to loose power and shift into high gear. Sometimes on a straight stretch of road with a small head wind my truck will loose power and shift about 15 times during a twenty mile stretch. I have noticed during cool weather and during the evening hours, the truck runs like a champ. What can I do to correct this problem and is all the shifting bad for my automatic trans ? I was considering buying a performance computer to try to remedy the problem. I really love my truck but I have come to the conclusion if nothing can solve my problem then my last measure is just to trade it in...
  • dodgefandodgefan Posts: 3
    Hi, thanks for the reply. I read also that the idle speed control could be a factor for the dying of the engine. Do you have any idea how much these parts cost(rear wheel speed sensor and idle speed control? And where can I find information on how to change these parts. Thanks for your time.
  • tommy77_1tommy77_1 Posts: 3
    I have an 02 1500 Quad 2WD with 34k miles on it and I am getting a rear brake squeak when I accelerate after stopping. It only happens for a few seconds. I just replaced rotors and pads and noticed that the parking brake pads and hardware were extremely rusty and was wondering if anyone else was having this problem and if they were able to find a fix. I lubricated the #$#$ out of the P brake hardware and it has helped some but still get the problem.
  • billiard1billiard1 Posts: 2
    Your relay should be in your fuse box under the hood. Open up the fuse box and on the cover it will label where to find the relay with corresponding numbers. Hope this helps.
  • ahavensahavens Posts: 6
    I had the rear wheel speed sensor shipped to me from the dealer, and I think total cost (shipping and all) was under 50 bucks. No idea about the idle speed control. As far as changing the speed sensor, it's easy. It plugs right into the top of your rear differential. All you have to do is disconnect a cable and remove a shield and then yank the old one out and replace with the new one. it's been a while, so I may be leaving a step or two out, but it shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes. Hope it helps.
  • dodgefandodgefan Posts: 3
    Ok, thanks for the info. It is appreciated.
  • 01dodge01dodge Posts: 1
    wondering if you found out your problem. a little more information, high voltage input to tps, runs rough, gas mileage drops to the floor, about 8mpg from 14. need help.
    same here cruise control stopped working.
  • farmboy4farmboy4 Posts: 9
    I have pretty much the same problem with my '98 2500 diesel, but all the air comes out the defrost ducts instead of the dash panel. In addition, the fan works sporadically. Sometimes when I turn the key to let the glow plugs warm up the fan comes on, and when I start the truck it doesn't come on. It may go for a couple of miles or a couple of days and then just kick on. Last weekend I spent Sunday trying to figure it out. There's a vacuum hose along the back side of the firewall near the top. It goes from the drivers side to the passenger side. The vacuum pump itself is connected to the power steering pump. There are a couple of tees in the hose and if you disconnect the hose you should be able to hear a slight hiss. If not because of the noise of the diesel, take something small and light weight and hold it over the vacuum hose end. It should suck it towards the hose. Then go on to the next piece. Behind the control, if yours is vacuum controlled and not electronic, there are about 5 little pieces of hollow plastic sticking out and a hose connects to each of them. One of them is the vacuum hose. You can easily find out which one by blowing air from an air compressor through the hose from the fire wall side once you have it disconnected from the control. Someone inside the truck can tell you if air comes through the hose and which one. At least now I know the hose is clear but am not sure if I have ENOUGH vacuum to operate the control. I checked this morning on a new vacuum pump at one of the big national service chains that does brakes, tires, mufflers, etc etc. I explained my problem and he told me it's probably the vacuum pump not supplying enough vacuum. A new (or maybe rebuilt pump) would run around $600.00 installed. I haven't made up my mind to spend that much money on it yet without knowing for sure that it would solve the problem.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    For around $10-$15 you can buy a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum at various points in the system, and of course the pump itself. I don't know the vacuum required on your truck (it will be in the FSM), but I'd guess at around 20".

    For around $30 you can buy a hand operated vacuum pump such as the Mityvac with which you can test the vacuum actuators that operate the various HVAC doors.

    Tools are always good to have, and it's certainly a cheaper alternative to spending $600.
  • farmboy4farmboy4 Posts: 9
    Thanks for two great ideas. I just put them on my ToDo list for next weekend. Hank
  • rbridgesrbridges Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 1500 QC Ram with 20" wheels and a Hemi. My truck has had a vibration in the seats since I drove it off the lot with only 32 miles on it. It starts at about 65 and stops at about 72...the truck has been in the shop 4 times, they've balanced the tires twice, completely replaced the tires, replaced the drive shaft and still, the vibration continues. Now it has 21,000 miles on it and they are telling me this is a characteristic of the truck. I'm sorry, but if this is a characteristic of the truck, I'm getting rid of it. The vibration at 65mph is annoying and if I'm ever riding in the passenger side, I can't lean my head back and close my eyes because it will rattle my eyeballs. How can that be normal? :mad:
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Vibration like this is not normal. A car or truck manufacturer would simply go out of business in several months if they sold new cars and trucks with serious vibration problems. Your dealer obviously cannot find the problem. There are other sources of vibration besides bad/unbalanced tires and unbalanced/bent drive shaft. For example, sloppy CV joints on a front wheel drive car can cause vibration, sloppy and loose tie rod ends can do that, defective/loose engine/transmission mounts can do it too. Also, damaged shocks and struts can also cause vibration. Badly balanced or unbalanced brake rotors and drums too (balanced during manufacture by machining metal out of rotors or welding a weight on drums).

    You made the mistake of buying a new truck with a vibration problem that showed during the initial test drive. You should have at least insisted that they first eliminate the problem, and if it was minor, such as a badly balanced wheel, then buy the truck if the condition was corrected.
    I made this mistake once and will never make it again. In 1985 I bought a new For Mustang GT that had a vibration problem during the first test drive. I asked them to take care of it, and they rebalanced the wheels and the car did not vibrate during the second test drive (up to 90 MPH). So I bought the car. Around the 600 mile mark the vibration gradually came back with a vengeance - and worse than ever before. Nobody could fix it, the tires were balanced at least six times, front ones replaced, suspension checked, no solution. Finally, they told me the same BS that they told you - that this is normal for this car. I got rid of this vehicle at 10k miles because quite frankly I hated driving it.

    When I test drive any new car or truck and I feel even minor vibration in it, I simply walk away from it. And I strongly advise others to do the same thing. Chances are, that it will develop into a much worse problem, and never be fixed. I learned my lesson and do not want to learn it again. Many dealers simply do not have techs experienced enough to be able to solve some tough vibration issues. After they try a few fixes and they do not work, they will try to get rid of you and disgust you to the point where you simply get rid of the vehicle to retain your sanity. Sad but true. My advice to all: simply go somewhere else or test drive another vehicle and if you do not see anything wrong, buy that one. Persistent and annoying vibration is very unpleasant thing to live with, no matter what the vehicle is.

    In your case i would recommend trying balancing the wheels and brake rotors on the truck as a unit. There are wheel balancers that can do this. Balancing is done with the wheels still mounted on the truck. You may need to find an independent shop to do this. I also recommend ahving the wheels balanced on a Hunter 9700 model road force balancer that can detect defective tires with excessive road force variation. I have seen instances where dealers balanced tires wrong over and over again. And the bigger the tires, the higher the probability of this happening.
  • rbridgesrbridges Posts: 3
    Well I didn't actually buy it knowing it had the vibration. I knew I was buying the truck so they let me take it home for the weekend, that's when I noticed a slight vibration. So when I went back in to do my paperwork, I mentioned the vibration to the salesman and he said it was probably just a flat spot on the tire from sitting on the lot and to give it about 5000 miles. So I did, :blush: . But when it didn't go away, the truck has been back in the shop 4 times. Yesterday I went in and they wanted me to drive another truck like mine and see that they all have the same vibration. So I drove the other truck (on a rough highway) and I did feel a slight vibration, but nothing like what mine does on a freshly paved road. I have a feeling I'm going to have to get rid of my Hemi and that sucks! I love the truck, I just can't deal with the vibration! :cry:
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    If tires develop temporary flatspots, such as from the vehicle sitting on the lot for a while without being moved, you usually feel "thumping" as opposed to vibration, and generally this goes away after several miles of driving. 5000 mile period is nonsense.

    Because you like this truck otherwise, I would recommend trying different tires. I have heard complaints about these 20 inch Goodyear tires and even if they replaced them, they may not be much better than the original ones. Michelin LTX M/S is about the best SUV/pickup tire out there. I do not know if they make it in the 20 inch size, but Dodge uses them as standard equipment on many Dodge pickups, including heavy duty trucks.

    Try at least the following the see if you note any improvement in ride: Buy 15 of 40 lb bags of top soil from WalMart (about $1/a piece). Place these bags in you bed, mostly over the rear axle (total 600 lbs). Then drive the truck and see if the ride improves. You can always dump the dirt on your lawn later, and $ 15 is not much to spend.

    I still suspect the tires and the way dealerships balance them. I would take the truck to an independent tire shop that has the Hynter 9700 model balancer and give it a try.

    BTW, when vibration is cuased by front wheels being out of balance, you generally feel it in the steering wheel. Unbalanced rear wheels will cause vibration in the seats and floor of the truck.
  • rbridgesrbridges Posts: 3
    Thanks so much for your advice, I'll try the top soil. But what is that going to prove? If the vibration stops with the top soil in it, what does that mean? The dealership actually took my truck to an independent tire shop and they did a high speed balance on the Hunter 9700 model. I'm really at a loss for what it is, but I just can't possibly see how it can be normal. I'm still going to take the truck to a tire shop and see what they come up with. I appreciate your time in answering my questions.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Loading the rear axle may make the vibration less pronounced and the ride more tolerable. Keep in mind that many pickups have a jiggly, jittery ride because of stiff rear springs, even when the tires are perfectly balanced. If you have bad wheel balance on top of this, the ride will be even worse.

    My '06 Silverado rides smoother with about 200-300 lbs of load in the bed. Less bounce. And my truck has no vibration problem.
This discussion has been closed.