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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair



  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    --"...but waiting to fill up the oil and top up the gas is ludicrous at best and should not be tolerated..."--

    Just a hypothetical question to chew on, but what would be your thoughts after boarding a budget trans-oceanic flight and see a notice stitched onto the seat back ahead of you that states, "Budja-Lines prides itself on reducing costs wherever possible to deliver the lowest airfares in the industry. To that end our latest maintenance procedures have been streamlined to check the lubricating oil levels in our airplane engines twice per year. Welcome aboard and enjoy your flight!"
  • :confuse: yes...that exactly what i meant...sorry...any help you can offer would be greatly apreciated...
  • herk01herk01 Posts: 1
    Sounds very familiar, I too am on my third visit to the dealer with my '02 Altima for stalling issues and they hook it up to the computer and everything is fine. I want them to replace the crack shaft sensors again but thus far they won't. Any developments withe your since July
  • jmachojmacho Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Altima which I purchased recently. Upon purchase, I did a major tune up replacing the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and fuel filter which were all original.

    My problem is a real puzzler- The car exhibits an occasional hesitation- usually very brief and it appears to occur traveling at highway speeds only after driving for an hour or so. Occurs in both dry or wet weather and very infrequently up until a recent trip. I do not notice any hesitation while driving around town. Car starts and runs fine with no idle or acceleration problem. This weekend while driving in the rain after 1 hour the hesitation became much worse with bucking that continued until we stopped for lunch. Did not see any drop on the tach and no CE light. After 1/2 hour stop (still raining) got back into traffic and I did not notice any hesitation for the remander 1/2 hour drive home. Again- noticed at highway speeds- usually after an hour or so, appears to occur more so while going up a hill (with or without any downshifting from the auto trans) and until recently very infrequently- any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I did reseat everything and the cap looked OK
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    Did you replace the spark plugs when you did the tune up? If not, you need to do that.The minor hesitation may be caused by some or one minor vacumm leak. If there aren't any vacumm leaks, check the fuel pressure when the car hesitates.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,373

    I've moved a couple of posts over to the topic created especially to discuss Altima engine failures and oil burning issues:

    Here's your link, for those of you looking for your posts.

    Nissan Engine Failures

    Mr. Shiftright

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • valvvalv Posts: 10
    I am terrified. Last week I bought a brand new '06 2.5 S. Reading all this info about recalls, and already having my car in the shop. Yes! 3 days after taking a delivery I discovered a water in the trunk, in the jack storage compartment that was heavily leaking down on the ground. I took pictures and brought to the dealership. Three days later - no word. I guess I'll give it another 2-3 days before calling a lawyer and pushing for either refund or replacement.
    Regarding your phrase regarding overcoming "bad car dealer": I don't believe (no offense) there is a "good car dealer". I had an internet quotes on hand and they still tryed to get me. Good thing I do my home work before shopping. I actually walked out two dealerships because both salesmen and the manager were liars. :mad:
  • joshuasjoshuas Posts: 1
    Looks like God never directed you to a dictionary though!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,373
    I have no idea what Jesus would do, but I will have to start deleting posts unless people make an effort to remain civil in their discourse.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I have the same exact problem with my car, about 4 months ago and I had to have the fuel injector replaced that cost me 500.00 plus, now after 4 months the problem has happened again. Now I am going to have to take it back to the shop again, but when that same excat thimg happened it was my fuel injector.
  • 97 Altima GXE, 282K miles. Still have original engine, transmission and starter. Love to zoom around Chicago town.
  • I have the same problem with an 02. Have you found a solution yet?
  • I traded in my 2003 Nissan Altima SE for a Honda Civic SI a few weeks ago. I hated getting rid of the SE, because I loved driving it. However, I did have some annoying problems. 1. Gas sensor valve went after 3 months, replaced under warranty with free loaner. 2. Had to replace the front struts (both sides) 3 times! Why is that? I never had a car that I even had to replace struts on before. I only had 24,000 miles on the car at the time. Also, while the VQ engine was powerful and smooth at low RPM, passing while at speed seemed to stress out the engine for some reason. Also, the interior plastics and center arm rest were low quality. Anyone who owns one will agree with me on that. Nissan needs to improve quality control.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Weren't you aware of the interior plastics issue before you signed the purchase contract?
  • Hi;
    I just bought a 96' Nissan Altima Recently. I fount out that sometimes my speedo needle won't move only if I kept on press the button to reset the milleage then it started to move, or only if I go up to 40 MPH then the speedo moved. Can someone tell me what's wrong with my car and how can I fix it? Or how much will it be to fix this problem? Thanks for your help.
  • I had this problem with my Infiniti I35 last year. Dealer replaced window motor and it has been working normal ever since.
  • how much did you pay for it?
  • Replacement under warranty - car was at 57K miles. The job description on the receipt likes this: "C/S driver side window goes up and drops down 1/4 of the way. Driver side window motor failing. Replaced Driver side window motor". I guess you should call a couple Nissan dealers and ask them specifically about the job of replacing window motor. They will give you a quote for labor and part. Hope this will help.
  • I have a 2000 Altima SE and I've had the same problem. It began a few months ago with an occasional "check engine" light, but only recently began idling very rough. It's gotten worse and worse by the day and finally got to the point that my car began dying when stopping suddenly, or making turns at low speeds. I've been trying to figure this out for a while and then I saw your message. I like to think that I can fix things on my own, so I never took mine to the shop because it's warranty is no longer active and I don't want to pay the outrageous amounts of money that a most shops would want to charge. Tomorrow morning, I'm going to check the mass airflow sensor, and if it works, I owe you one hell of a, "thank-you!". I'll be in touch.
  • I have a 2002 2.5s and you wouldnt believe that as we speak I'm having the Head of the motor taken off becuase of excessive oil loss. I have 120,000 miles but its because I drive alot. But what are miles when it comes to a nissan, so you think. Well about 2 weeks ago I had a Air Mass Flow Meter replaced, 500.00 not covered. Well the next week I look and see that there was no oil on the dip stick, not even close to an oil change yet. Well I went and had the oil done and the next day I was low 2qts. When I started the car there was tons of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Well the antifreze was fine. Im telling you right now, it seems everyone i talk to does not see any oil on the ground, its internal. That means when the time comes for you it will mean taking the head off and looking inside the motor. They seem to think its a lower engine problem, pistons, rings. They dont think its simple like the head gasket. I think Im gonna be replacing the engine. Im sick!!!!! I called Nissan and of course they said nothing. We need to have more people complain because this is a major issue with there cars, especially with that year. I will let you know what the verdict is, but in the meantime keep a close eye on the level because its internal and it will burn the motor out. I will keep in touch.
  • I have had one thing after another go wrong with this car. I had a $500.00 Air Mass Flow Meter replaced because the car Idled really rough and RPMs were racing up and down. Then I notice excessive oil loss, not on the ground, but internal and coming out of the exhaust. I know that if that keeps up it will burn the converter out. I have my car at the garage right now and they are taking the head off the motor to see if thats the problem, they also think it might be a lower end problem which means replacing the whole engine. Im pissed, it dont seem like this should happen to a Nissan. Let me know if anyone else is having this problem. It starts with white smoke coming out the tailpipe.
  • I have the same problem with my car, thats why its in the shop having the head taken off and probally replacing that or the whole motor, believe me if you dont see oil on the ground then its an internal leak and its coming out the exhaust. Get rid of the car and you'll save some money!! :sick:
  • White smoke from tailpipe usually associates with coolant loss because of head gasket broken and coolant leaking into motor and gets burn. Black smoke & oil loss due to broken rings and/or loose pistons. Oil goes thru the rings into chambers. Both symtoms often happen after engine overheated. It happened to me long time ago with my Dodge Colt. The only way to save the car is to change or rebuild its motor.
  • Have any of you have any problems with Hub Bearing failures? The hub bearing holds the front wheel by supporting the end of the CV drive shaft, it is pressed into the Steering Knuckle, which is the bottom part of the strut. I had the left one go bad on my daughters 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5S with 83,000 miles, the left front wheel felt very loose when it was jacked up off the ground. The hub bearing is a very large ball bearing, the guy at the parts house told me that it is actually two bearings built in one housing. I had to remove the wheel and the steering knuckle, took it down to the auto store to have a new one pressed in, it would have cost $40 for the bearing and $30 for the labor to press. However, he could not do it because the hub that pressed into the center of the bearing was loose and worn, and I could not get one right away, and if I could, they are $137 at the dealer, so we were forced to go to the junkyard and get a used drivers side steering knuckle for $100. I put it on, and it's ok for now, but I am concerned about these things going out, because they are not that easy to replace and require special equipment (a press) to remove and replace. Besides the bearing should have lasted longer and the center hub should certainly not have gone bad, even if the bearing got a little loose. The hub bearing was not that loose, the hub was loose inside the bearing (should have been a press fit). I am not looking forward to having this problem again. I am wondering if this might be a common problem with the Altimas?
  • Mine turned out to be distributor problem. I replaced it on my own. Hope this helps.
  • In my 2003 Altima, it is not a "one-touch". You have to hold the button for it to open/close.
  • How did it go?! I'm going to be buying the 2.5S next week (probably); however, the oil consumption problem has me worried.
  • Hey guys,

    Ok, so my 2005 Altima is having issues when starting. When I turn the key on the engine would sound like it's out of gas and won't start, but after 5 secs of holding on to the key the engine will finally start, sometimes shaking a little. I've checked the spark plugs, air filters, and taken my Altima to two Nissan dealers. One told me that the engine's dirty because I didn't use a Nissan brand air filter, (Fram instead) and another dealer said they didn't find any problems with it. It's hard to duplicate the problem. I know it usually happens after I've parked the car for 30mins or so and started it up again. It turns on fine every morning though. Could it be the fuel injection?
    Please help. :confuse:
  • It sounds like the fuel pump check valve isnt holding its fuel pressure. Try this. Every time before you start the car. Turn the key to the ON position and wait for two seconds. Then turn the key off and take it out. Then put it in and turn the key to On for another two seconds, then start the engine. What this will do is run the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system before starting.
  • Yah, my friend told me to do the same thing, pretty much turn it to ON for 3-5secs then start the engine. That works fine all the time, but how do I fix the problem and how much will it run? :confuse:
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