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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair



  • I think you mean the light like a lamp with exclamation mark in the middle? If it's, it's the tire pressure warning light.
  • Hi, no it is not the tire pressure light, it doesn't have an exclaimation mark.
    It is a round circle with interval marks that would be at the 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 mark around the inside of the circle, with a little gauge hand, like a tach or speedometer hand and then four little straight marks below the circle.
  • I know exactly what you mean and spent about 30 minutes looking for the damn icon as you described. I does resemble the tire pressure warning light. I don't have my manual with me, but as I recall it had to do with the fact your dashboard lights are on. Mines on all the time now and I think I put 10,000 miles on my '07 before it ever came on! I have 14,500 now and haven't had any problems. I'll be happy to look it back up, but it is in your manual, and I think it has to do with brightness of dashboard and those controls. You're not going nuts, I know the icon and what you mean!!! Congrats on the '08 Altima!
  • haha, i just found it. It's on page 2-30 (2007 Manual) but it might be the same for '08.
  • About a month ago i started to notice that when ever i hit a small bump in the road the car feels as if the shocks are loosely attached to the vehicle, there is a loud deep rattle upon and after driving over any size bump. I took the vehicle in to a mechanic to have it checked out, and even after the so called bad bearing was replaced the problem perisited, help me please someone, because it literally feel like the wheel are about to fall off?
  • Looks like anothe recall

    Don't see what good reprogramming will do for a burnt out sensor.
  • Oh Welcome to the Wonderful World of Nissan Altima. We own a 2003 Altima - purchased brand new.

    I had same problem ...... I took it to the Nissan Dealership where we purchased the car - complaining, complaining, complaining. The Nissan Dearlership blew us off. The Altima was (still) riding like a BuCkeT.

    Finally, I took the car to a very reputable Tire Store. Guess what - Struts were bad & the Inner Tie-Rod also.

    Most of my miles on my Altima are freeway - I currently have 73k Why would the car ride like I had been driving it "Off Road"

    So many trips to the Nissan Dealership - Broken Motor Mount, Cat Convertor, Exhaust Manifold, etc. etc. etc. Yes, the Nissan Dealership has repaired all the "Issues" - What a joke. Not only the hassle of wondering when your Altima is going to "break-down" How long the Nissan Dealership will jerk you around - until you insist NISSAN fix your car.

    My advise DUMP the Nissan Altima while you can! We are covered until 11/2008 w/ extended warranty. If we could sell our Nissan Altima with a clean conscience - we would.
  • This car won't start unless we park it in the garage overnight and even then, it takes a while to get it going and must be warmed up for a while before we can drive it.

    It has a new battery, alternator, wires, plugs, and cap/rotor. Nothing seems to have helped.

    Runs great once it warms up.

    Anyone know what is wrong with it?
  • We really need full information to be of help to you. You have not mentioned anything about the service history, or the number of miles on the vehicle. I assume since it is a 1996, it probably has high miles, maybe 150K miles. If it has recieved all scheduled service and been maintained well, the engine should be in satisfactory shape. Are there any signs of oil burning, smoking, steaming, ever any overheating, ect?
    When it is hard to start, is this in cold weather? Does the engine turn over well and the engine just not start or does the engine just turn over sluggishly?
    Is the engine in good general health, meaning having good cylinder compressions?
    You made no mention of the fuel system, has the fuel filter been changed? You should add a bottle of fuel additive, like STP Gas Treatment, to the gas tank at every oil change. Are the spark plugs clean and dry and burning with a good color (light tan insulator)? Make sure the inside of the Distributor and Cap stay clean and dry (no oil or water).
    If the ignition system is known to be good, I would check the fuel system next. Any check engine lights on? Any diagnostic codes? You might need to clean or replace the Idle Air Control Solenoid, or Throttle Body, or MAF Sensor, or Crankshaft Sensor, or Camshaft Sensor, etc.
    These are just a few things to start looking at.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • I had all 4 brakes replaced last year at about 25k miles and now at the annual inspection (30k miles) they say I need 4 new brakes again.

    Any help or suggestions/reasons this may happen?
  • The only reason that comes to mind for brakes wearing out in 5k miles is that they were never really replaced. As in, you were charged, but no work was done. Also, what exactly what was replaced? Just the pads, or rotors and pads?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,443
    Something does not seem right. Either your environment or you or a combination of the factors make it SUPER hard on the brakes. The last "brake" job may have not done correctly. In addition, so called economy cars such as Civic, Corolla , etc, have been known to use quick wearing pads, shoes, rotors and drums for a hosts of reasons: one example would be cost lowering and control.
  • I need to verify to the invoice and reply to your question.
    Hopefully tonight.
    Thanks for your response, you may be right, we were not very comfortable with the place that did the begin with....
  • Thanks for your response.
    Carol (my fiance) drives the car only to work which is around the block and to local shopping only so I dont think it is the type of driving....
    I will find out more tonight.
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    That sounds about right. especially rear brakes, they last forever. about 70% of your braking is done on the front.
  • The problem here is not just the brakes, but the place that did the work and put the brakes on. You did not give us any history. Where was the work done, at a dealer or local garage? Obviously their work was well below par. They may not have even put any need brakes on! What did they say they did to your car, what does your receipt say? New Pads front and rear? What type pads? DId they resurface the rotors or put on new ones, or did they do nothing at all to the rotors? Did they rebuild or replace the front and rear caliphers? How much did this "brake job" cost you?
    No matter what, I would take the car back down there and insist that they make the job right at no cost to you!
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • I've had a problem with the Heat/AC fan thats been progressively getting worse over the past 1-2 years or so. I have a 99 Altima which has the standard options of 1, 2, 3, or 4 for fan speed at which the hot or cold air is blown. Originally when i got the car all the options worked ie) 1 would lightly blow the air, 2 would be faster and so on. Eventually when I would put the setting on 1 no air would come out. I would put it on 2 and a little air would come out. Now settings 1 and 2 don't work and I have to put it on 3 to get any heat or AC into the car. Setting 3 is still quite powerful so my car gets really hot really quickly, within a minute or so. The end result is that i'm turning the heat on and off every few minutes becuase of how hot the car gets when its on but then the car gets really cold if its off.
    This isn't the end of the world by any means but its annoying to be turning the heat on and off every few minutes, especially since I drive so much and its winter. Does anyone know a way to fix this without involving a mechanic?
  • "Does anyone know a way to fix this without involving a mechanic?"

    That all depends on how much you know about electricity and if you know how to troubleshoot electrical problems and do you have simple test equipment and know how to use it? In other words, can you do what a mechanic does? If not, take it to one. Your problem sounds like it could be one of these things:
    Blower Motor Resistor
    Fan Speed Switch
    or the Wiring between the Fan Speed Switch and the Blower Motor Resistor
    Good Luck,
    E. D. in Sunny Florida
  • I'm loooking to purchase a 1998 Altima GXE sedan with 135,000 miles. It looks and rides great, however, the owner (original) has not had the timing chain replaced. Should I purchase the vehicle anyway?
  • rugmankcrugmankc Posts: 133
    What's the price? The timing chain is overdue. My son still has my 94 at 138k. Only routine maintenance in line with those miles. Have a trusted independent mechanic look it over.

  • I have a 95 Altima, bought it new, kept the oil changed 3000 to 4000 miles. It now has 273,000 miles on it. Had it serviced at the same dealership, told the chain would last the life of the car , and keeping the oil changed is the key to the longevity of the chain.
    Best car I have ever owned.
  • The timing chain is not overdue for replacement - the rugmankc shoud stick to selling rugs ... timing chains usually last the life of a car , not like timing BELTS which need to be replaced at different intervals , depending on the engine and manufacturer ... but , being mechanical, things can happen ( my Celica chain broke at 229k, bending three valves ) , they can stretch a little, and can rattle a bit if the tensioners wear ... my '93 240SX , which has this same engine , is going strong at 335k and all I've replaced on that car is the radio, radiator, and antenna lift ( they tend to get brittle after 13 years or so ) - AC even blows cold after all these years ... that Altima could give you another 200K easily if maintained properly ... like bsmart I change my oil every month or so , with synthetic , don't need to but the cars last ... I expect to get at least 300k on my 350Z, with the same timing chains ... good luck on your purchase ...
  • rugmankcrugmankc Posts: 133
    You're right bsmart, the car does have a chain not a belt. I forgot. It may go for awhile yet. I change the oil every 1500 to 2k only because that is how many miles my son puts on it in 3 to 4 mos. Won't go longer than that regardless of miles. I think that is why it is still doing so good. Never failed to start over all those years and it is outside now 24/7. I would still check on the TMV before buying and have it examined.

  • Greetings. Had my local, trusted mechanic perform 60,000 mile service on my 2005 Altima and within two weeks after the service, my beloved "Service Engine Soon" light comes on. Stayed on for 5 days, then went off the day I was to take it in for review. Off for 2 days, then back on for 5, then off for 2, then on with similar frequency. Drive about 80 miles every other day. Car seems to be performing just fine. Have not taken it in for examination, but am hoping my mechanic will not charge me much since it went on soon after he tuned up.
    Any ideas?
  • I have a 95 altima and the brake lights won't shut off. the brake relay switch is working fine, so is there something i am overlooking?
  • i have a 96 nissan altima and when i was driving i started loosing power and my car died... i changed the alternator and the battery but it still doesnt run... when i jump start the car it starts but once i take the jumpers off it starts to die and loose power immeidietly... Can someone tell me what the problem is... i have no clue
  • I'm no expert. My expieriencegoes back to the days when cars had carborators.. If I had to guess about your starting problem, I would think about my fuel filter and/or throttle body. I don't know if they use them any more or not, but in the past these kind of problems on my cars were caused by bad ignition coils.

    Good luck. I am sure someone out there will have the answer.
  • gbmegbme Posts: 2
    Hello: We have a 2002 Nissan Altima with a 2.5 and we are having problems with it. First the ses light came on about two weeks ago an it was a mas sensor. A 200.00 fix, then it ran for a week and the ses light came on again. This time the mech says it has a fuel problem. It won't hardly run and fall on it face unless you baby it. Then it gets up to about 50 miles per hour and runs OK for about 2 to 3 minutes, then it drops on its face and then starts to work itself back up to speed. If you leave the car seat for awhile, it will start back up, but you have to baby it back to speed. Is it the fuel pump or what? It don't have a regular fuel filter on it, it is in the tank with the pump. I'll take any help I can get. Thanks.
  • rugmankcrugmankc Posts: 133
    Can be several problems like mentioned. I have a 94 and it once got oil in the distributor and left my son stranded. Had it towed to my mechanic. Don't know how, but he found the oil in there. Cleaned and changed inside parts/cap and drilled a small hole for future drainage. Never happened again. That was the only time this car ever shut off or failed to start. 139K.

    Good Luck
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,976
    My 03 needs a new trunklid. I've located a used one in the right color but it has a spoiler whereas mine does not. What would be involved in wiring up the third brake light?

    Thanks in advance for your help.
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