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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair



  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Posts: 78
    I envy your position. As a matter of fact I had always hoped that I could get a house with a built in bay. I am sorry if I pissed you off and you have my deep apology.

    For a while there I did my own stuff and was something of an expert working on Morris Oxfords. A very pretty car, but unrelaible. Imagine, an English car whose windshield would leak during the rain! It's best feature, a hand crank to start er up when all else failed. People were amazed to see a crank in circa 1950.
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490

    Ist of all, you didn't piss me off. I learned a long time ago that its sometimes difficult to get your true intent expressed in 1 or 2 paragraphs. So, no problem there...

    Old Btritish cars were off limits to me...other than an old Triumph Spitfire. That's when I decided British cars were no fun for me.

    What's the old joke about why the British like their beer served warm? Its because Lucas (the electrical parts manufacturer for British cars) also made all the refrigerators in England. If you have worked on British cars, I am sure you understand the joke...

    Take it easy, Dude!
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    If you have oil in a cylinder, replacing the valve cover gasket will NOT fix the problem.

    Are you sure he didn't say replacing the valve guides/seals?

    Now, if you simply have oil accumulating around the outside of the sparkplug, replacing the gasket may indeed solve that issue.
  • levinlllevinll Posts: 2
    I may have indeed mispoke when I indicated what repair the mechanic said my car needed

    He showed me the oil when he removed the spark plug cover and oil was dripping from it.

    The repair was to cost me $100.
  • bob212bob212 Posts: 1
    I get these codes off the blinks with the service engine light 3 long and 4 short which comes up as knock sensor and 10 long 5 short which comes up as egr solenoid valve and EVAP canister purge control solenoid valvue circut is open or shorted. Does anyone know what I should do to correct the above or how to test them.
  • u might have 2 get them out like its done on the 04-08 maximas that is taking the inner fender wall loose dropping the front bumper cover about 3 inches then remove the air filter box also take all screws bolting the actual headlight down loose i know it sounds like a lot but thats how they're actually removed i used to work at a nissan dealer here in new orleans most of all the new model nissans are made like that something simple as changing a light bulb is a pain in the butt good luck with changing your bulbs
  • i worked at a nissan dealer(eric hill nissan in new orleans east) for a long time i always owned GMs and i hate the fact that people always are so quick to uplift imports like they are bulletproof i saw so many nissans come in and out the shop with the same problems american cars have or worst that goes to show u aint no car import or american is built like fort knox the nissan altima has about 7 recalls visit your dealer dont be surprised at what u discover
  • It sounds like you're driving my car. Check for a fuel leak. I have a 1994 Altima and was experiencing the same problem. I finally found a small but significant, intermitting stream of fuel coming from underneath the car...behind the passenger side front wheel. So I knew it was in the area. I traced the line (was underneath the car...never fun), and made my own repair. Car runs great again. And I am no longer losing gas!!!
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Last week, I received a recall notice on the Altima 2.5 08 models, regarding the improper torque settings on the bolts that secure the serpentine belt idler arm. Took it in today, and the dealer replaced the bolts and torqued them properly (I hope). Took 2 hours total.

    Can't help but think this was related to your problem...
  • jft26jft26 Posts: 35
    Does anyone know where I can get something like a Chilton's Complete Repair Manual or a Shop Manual for my 2006 Altima? Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,596

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  • roadrunner70roadrunner70 Posts: 241
    my message about doing own oil change really brough out some comments.

    anyway, before anyone replied i did the change. i like some others on this board are avid auto hobbiests. i have been changing oil and filters on cars for over 40 years, and on boats for about 10.

    you don't need to jack up the altima at all, and a little care to remove the inner fender liner after turning the wheels to the right is all that it takes.

    of course, there are many proper options to discard used oil and filters.

    as far as time is concerned, it takes less time and is much more convenient to do my own oil and filter, and rotate tire, do brake jobs, etc, than to bring it in and leave it and go back and pick up, etc.

    by the way, the last time i brough my nissan murano in for replacement of the rear hatch struts they did me a favor and did a courtesy inspection. they forgot to put the oil dipstick in all the way and oil was leaking out of the dipstick hole and dripping down under the engine.

    i agree with comments from others, that over the years i have caught many small problems with cars by closely looking at them, workingn on them and making sure that my ride was safe, reliable and current with all required services.

    that is my take on this subject rr70
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    by the way, the last time i brough my nissan murano in for replacement of the rear hatch struts they did me a favor and did a courtesy inspection. they forgot to put the oil dipstick in all the way and oil was leaking out of the dipstick hole and dripping down under the engine.

    I had a garage that didn't tighten the drain plug all the way. luckily it didn't come out, but when I got the oil changed the next time (at a different place) they showed me how it was about 2 threads from coming out :surprise:

    I think everybody does the curtsey inspections now. Personally, I don't think its so much that they care, but more about wanting to find work. I think with cars as reliable as they are, the repair business isn't what it used to be. Anyhow, for someone like me its a real blessing. I don't know much about cars (mechanically speaking) and rely on those inspections to stay on top of things.

    As for the whole oil change thing, each to his own I say. For me, I don't enjoy it, and it isn't worth the time, or hassle to save a few bucks. but I can totally understand how somebody who enjoyed doing that kind of stuff would want to do it.
  • We just bought a 2008 2.5 SL which came with manufacturer sunroof and defector.

    After taking delivery of the vehicle we noticed that driving on the highway over 60 MPH there is a hissing noise coming from the sunroof area. Sliding the cover shut (so you cannot see out) helps but still apparent.

    We took the car back and they kept it for a day. They claimed it was a mirror producing the noise but on the way home it still was coming from the sunroof.

    The car is going back today and we hope they will repair it. I was hoping to know if there are any known issues with the current model Altima and sunroof. I did a search and could not find one.


    George :mad:
  • lindseyj6lindseyj6 Posts: 1
    Was this info helful? I am thinking of replacing the whole passenger side mirror myself. The auto shop wants way too much for just changing the part. Let me know how easy or hard it was. Thanks.
  • karpediemkarpediem Posts: 46
    If you want to replace the whole mirror, it's very very easy. I just replaced my normal mirrors for the ones with blinkers and defoggers. I have regular dark slate ones if somebody wants to buy them!

    Open your door all the way and just pull back on the triangle plastic piece where the mirror attaches ON THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR. It will pop off and you can wiggle it free. Then there are just 3 bolts exposed to unscrew and the whole side mirror comes off. Really simple.
  • jft26jft26 Posts: 35
    I have an 06 Altima purchased new in Sept 2006. I brought the front tire feathering issue to the Dealer's attention in Feb 2007 and they re-aligned the car under warranty at that time .... @ 2200 miles. In Sept 2007 the Dealer re-aligned the car again under warranty and rotated the tires. In Dec 2007 the Dealer once again re-aligned the car and rotated the tires.. Well, here I am once again with the same issue only more pronounced since I now has 23K miles on the car. The tires are now making some noise. Has anyone experienced this problem? The tires look like new but the feathering is pronounced. I am very annoyed that I may have to replace these tires so soon. Sounds like the issue is with the tires and not the mechanical aspect of the car. Please advise. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,596
    This might help you understand feathering a bit more:

    Various Types of Tire Wear and Their Causes

    As you can see, doing an alignment on an already feathered tire is a waste of time.

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  • jft26jft26 Posts: 35
    Thank you. I figured that it was a waste of time to do the alignments too but that was all the Dealer was offering. I guess I was hoping that the feathering would not progress after the alignments but I guess that was a mistake. Anyway, I will bring the car into the Dealer service once again and see what they say now. Thank you once again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,596
    Once the tire is feathered, it's toast. There is no saving it. It will be serviceable to a point but it will make noise. The tire got feathered because it was dragged sideways (that's an exaggeration but the general idea). Basically your dealer was wasting his time and yours, that's true. If you can actually easily see the feathering, the tire should be discarded and the problem corrected before installing new tires. Also you can't do a good alignment with feathered tires in the first place.

    So the way to go is a) install new tires b) inspect for bushing wear c) align the car.

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  • mtl2mtl2 Posts: 2
    Hi , i would like to know if there's a fuse for the cruise control since the set light blink and the manual say that if the set light blinks it mean a malfunction and the car has to be brought to a nissan dealer so i would like to know if there's or not since the dealer asked me 80$ just to check.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,596
    The dealer has to read the trouble code to isolate the problem. It could be the switch, servo, relay, speed sensor, etc.---all are part of the cruise control system.

    I doubt if it's a fuse as this diagram doesn't even show one:

    So it must be part of another fused circuit. No harm checking all the fuses though.

    Ask the dealer to apply the diagnostic charge to the total cost of repair. They might do that.

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  • mtl2mtl2 Posts: 2
    ok thanks , it's because i want to see how much is the cost for the reparations and only the estimation price is 80$ which i find huge so that's why i wanted to if my local garage can find the problem by being it a fuse or something minors.
  • ndiboyndiboy Posts: 36
    I have 2002 2.5l model and noticed that the fan does not work all the time rather it comes on and goes off.Is this normal?
    The fan belt pulley seems to be wobbling, what do i do?
  • mwiesen1mwiesen1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Altima. I just has my oil service at 14,500 miles. My tires were rotated the oil service previous. The service department tried to sell me on a 15,000 mile maintenance package at the tune of $475. How much of this recommended service is truly needed? I want to keep my Altima in good condition and will budget for extra service in the next 3,000 miles. I don't want to pay for unnecessary service. I understand the service department works on commission. I just want to be smart and not taken advantage of. To the folks in the know, please let me know what I really, truly need to do to keep my car in good order. Write back. Thanks
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    The answer in 5 words or less...They're attempting to "hose" you.

    Compare what they wish to do with the suggested services in the owner's manual.
  • rugmankcrugmankc Posts: 133
    At 15K you don't need much of anything. I made a maintenance list based on the Owner's Manual and a lifetime of common sense. I also use a reputable private mechanic (get one), I use synthetic oil and change it every 3 to 4k, rotate tires every 7k, and replace tranny fluid every 25k. Other fluids, filters, and tune-ups per manual, unless the intervals seem too long. I have my mechanic do a complete safety check every oil change. Belts, hose, brakes, suspension, etc. These intervals can vary with different people, but they have worked great for me on all three vehicles, including my 94 Altima with 143,000 miles, and all are running great with only routine maintenance to date. Routine maintenance to me at 143k includes things like a starter, timing chain, etc. Vehicles need no oil added between changes and start every time. My daughter-in-law is now looking for a local private mechanic. She finally got tired of paying 2 to 3 times a private mechanics rate for the same work at her dealer.

    Good Luck,

  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    Actually, unless you drive in really harsh environments or do a LOT os stop and go short trips, true synthetic oil is good for a minimum of 5000 miles between changes, and 7500 if your driving is primarily in trips of 25+ miles.
  • rugmankcrugmankc Posts: 133
    Good point,

    I just like the shorter intervals. Gives me a sense of more security on engine life. I have a 2002 Lexus RX300 that I started on synthetic when first bought. At 109K the oil is still a very light yellow after 4k. I feel this car will go 300K, with continued good maintenance.

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