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Lincoln Aviator



  • Have you fixed your Aviator's shifter yet? This happend to me 2 weeks ago. As long as all the parts are there it's a no-cost, 10 minute, do-it-yourself fix. Let me know if you still need help.
  • medic8medic8 Posts: 4
    I have the same probem with my 2003 Aviator. The window is intermittent. I figure it is a loose wire.
  • mrcroshawmrcroshaw Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem, the c
    shifter is stuck in park and the button is stuck in. my wife says that the whole shifter lifts up like a cliup is broken. Is there a easy fix for this? I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I can do it with some advise! thanks!
  • rece_30rece_30 Posts: 1
    I am thinking of buy a 03 Aviator with 85000 miles on it. I am going to take it to a ford dealership to get it check out. Anyone have any info on what I should keep an eye out for. Also any feed back in how the Aviator runs ? I have a family of 3 and we need a larger size vehicle now.

    Any input will be appreciated. :)
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,001
    Get a loaded Explorer instead. They don't have the engine problem or some of the other problems that plagued the Aviators.

    If you do want it, have a compression test done on all cylinders. That's the symptom of the head problem that costs $4500 to fix.
  • 04avi04avi Posts: 9
    gas milage is horrible!!! I have a 04' I love it, it has 89,xxx and i have not had any problems other than the 12 or 13 mpg city that it gets I dont have any complaints. My sister has a loaded explorer and I think my car is much nicer than hers, maybe because its mine but I dont think the explorers really compare to the aviator.
  • Hi, Can you share some knowledge on how to fix the shifter pin problem? Same thing happen to my sons Truck! Please any kind of advice is appreciated.
  • I am having the same problems as everyone else - 2004 Lincoln Aviator.

    1. The rear hatch applique is cracked around the emblem. I understand this is a design flaw and has happened to many. I have a bumper to bumper warranty, but they will not fix it because it is cosmetic.

    2. My car vibrates or shudders violently over 60 miles per hour when accelerating, particularly down hill. Very scary. I have to slow down to get it to stop. I see others have had this problem.

    3. Just recently my car has had two additional problems. When the car is idling, sometimes it will just shut down or turn off. The frequency has been increasing in the last couple of weeks. The car has shut down during mild acceleration and deceleration. For the first time ever, the car shut down in an intersection while I was moving. I then had no power steering!! I was scared to death. As with similar complaints, I was able to re start the engine and it seemed to be fine. I took my car into Lincoln today and dropped it off. I am now worried for my children.

    Finally, the power steering doesn't seem to work on some random morning. If I re start the car, so far, the power steering seems to work.

    If anybody has had any of these things successfully repaired, let me know.
  • 04avi04avi Posts: 9
    I am hearing a humming noise in the front right of my 04 avi. My first thought was transmission or front differential, after doing some checking around the net I am now leaning towards the wheel hub bearings. The best I can describe the noise I'm hearing is that it sounds like loud tire noise it is a deep hum and it is louder as I vear to the left with the steering wheel if I vear to the right at low speeds the noise quiets a bit. I would have thought that a bearing going bad would be more of a metal on metal sound or a squeeking noise but this is a deeper humming noise. Any advice before I just go and buy a new hub bearing assembly.
  • I had the right front hub assembly replaced about 3 mo. ago. The hum was so bad you couldn't stay in the car. It was doing exactly what you've described. Get it replaced...there is no other fix. I also had the left rear done about 4 weeks after that...about $400 each time.
  • mongo1mongo1 Posts: 49
    I know this is late, but you might want to check your coil packs. A weak pack can really cause havoc with fuel mileage.
  • 04avi04avi Posts: 9
    Check engine light came on the other day had it checked turns out its a coil pack #8. Any help with the firing order I know its on the drivers side but not sure which one. Also on the earlier problem it was the drivers side wheel bearing that was making the huming noise. The part was 150 and took about three and a half hours to do. man that thing was a pain to get out I had to beat the ^h&t out of it for ten minutes to get the bearing out. Also any advice on new coils or should I but a generic one. I found some for 15 bucks a piece and as much as 50.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,001
    I thought it still used a single coil pack, not individual coil on plugs but I could be wrong. Are you sure it's the coil and not the dreaded head problem? Seems like cylinder 8 was the one that goes bad but I could be wrong. A compression test would confirm it (or deny it).
  • 04avi04avi Posts: 9
    no it is individual coil on plugs, an dno I haven't done a compression test but hopefully its the coil and not the cylinder I will know soon enough. i'll post when I'm done with it
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,001
    Good luck. Hopefully it's the coil. Cylinder 8 should be the one closest to the firewall on the driver's side.
  • 04avi04avi Posts: 9
    ok so I read an earlier post stating that the coil problem was on a recall and after calling my local dealer they told me it was covered I dropped my vehicle off this morning and they have called and said there were two bad coils they replaced the coils and plugs and I'm ready to go. no charge I wont pick it up until after work but hopefully it runs better and maybe my gas milage will improve a bit. Nevertheless I am very pleased with how easy it was to get this fixed by Lincoln. i bought this car used with 90,000 on it who would have thought anything would be covered still on a warranty man I love Lincoln!
  • 04avi04avi Posts: 9
    they replaced cyl. 8 and 3 after driving for the weekend it seems its still runing rough they say bring it back in man i hope this doesn't cost me this time but it runs like they did half a tune up its really bogging down in the low rpm's hope they just replace all plugs and coils under warranty i'll post when i know something
  • bhiguybhiguy Posts: 1
    I just changed my 2004 Aviator front brakes and had the same problem... that the calipers were loose enough , but could not be removed.

    After reading a few suggestions on this forum, I used a C clamp to push the piston back into the cylinder a bit....and that did the trick. It was a bit awkward with caliper still sitting on the wheel.....but i eventually found a way

    that's all it took

  • rocky333rocky333 Posts: 1
    lost my list, could you send me a copy, thanks
  • aviprobaviprob Posts: 1
    did you find a solution to your luggage problem? I am curious because I am having the same issues....
  • Has anyone exprienced this nightmare? For no apparent reason fuse # 29 DTRS (digital transmission range sensor) keeps blowing causing a no start situation. The fuse is very hard to get at up under the dash. I have replaced the neutral safety switch twice and removed the remote start which had some chafed wires do to rubbing against the carpet. Every time I think I've solved it it happens again (over 50 times) LIncoln has no clue, my best mechanics can't figure it. Any help would be appreciated.
  • I have experienced the defective coil pack problem which Lincoln is supposed to fix for free. I have been getting nothing but a hard time from Lincoln. Seems like all they want to do is upsell to a laundry list of other problems > I have opted to fix it myself (pretty easy) and most auto parts stores will tell you which one to change . Part is about $50.00
  • Just fixed mine. Look under the dash at the brake pedal arm. Push the brake pedal in with your hand to see all the parts that move. On the inside of the arm you will find a plastic box about 1 inch long and maybe 3/4 inch wide. It has an electrical connector in the back. If you disconnect the connector, the lights will go off. Next, there is a yellowish-green submarine shaped cap. On one end is a push in clip. Take the submarine box off. This will reveal a cotter pin. Take the cotter pin out. The plastic box relay unit can now slide off the approximately 1/4 inch diameter pin it sits on. Watch carefully: The secondary arm, that goes through the firewall, comes off with the box. When you put it back together, the arm goes in the center of the arms on the plastic box. (All of this will make more sense when you get the relay box off). With the box free, take off the plastic top. It is held in place with three clips. Just pull the top off over the three clips. Inside you will find a set of "points" (sort of like the old points on the distributor in an old 1970's car). When the little square at the end of the plastic relay box is pushed in (use a screwdriver or something), the points will touch, thereby completing the circuit. In my case, I took some fine sandpaper, folded it in half, ran it between the points on the relay and cleaned them up. Then I sprayed it with electrical circuit cleaner, hooked it up to the electrical connecter, and, presto!, the lights did not come on until I pressed in the little square at the end of the relay box. Hooked it all back up, and it worked perfectly. I'm sure that sooner or later I will have to buy a new one, but for now this works. Took about an hour to get it off, clean it, and put it back on. Much easier if you just buy a new relay. I couldn't. Everything was closed for the Thanksgiving holiday. The hardest part of the job was being contorted on my back on the floorboard, reaching up under the dash. Good luck to anyone else who tries it. It's not hard, and a shop will charge you at least an hour of work to fix this. Probably worth the work.
  • Happened to me too once. I have an 03, 100k on it. Its pretty easy to fix yourself. Also that piece has a lil spring that belongs there too.

    Besides all the headaches this truck has given me in the past 2 years I gotta say I love my aviator!!
  • Anyone know how many watts are the aviator stock speakers all around and how many watts does the amplifier pushing the sub have?
  • I have had the same issue. Deal cannot identify the cause. I have found that if I put it in neutral and rev it to about 5000 rpm for a few seconds, the engine then stops making the roaring sound and revs the way it should. It sounds like induction noise. Maybe there is a bypass in the intake that is not opening when it should. Either way, a quick rev seems to make it go away, otherwise it will continue for the first few minutes of driving.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It's just your fan clutch, which is made to blow the fan hard on start up for a few minutes, then adjust to the actual engine temperature. I don't know why, but they all do it, any Ford with a fan clutch. Explorers, trucks, Aviators, Navigators, Expeditions. Don't worry about it, you can't fix it without damaging something, and there's nothing wrong.
  • My 2004 Aviator "had" adjustable pedals.The brake pedal is now closer to the seat and the gas pedal is fully extended.I've searched the internet for a temporary fix but i wanted to know if any of my fellow forum followers have had any experience with this problem.Thanks.
  • los2hotlos2hot Posts: 1
    05 Aviator run rough at idle, but smooth while driving. The #38 fuse blows immediately after changing 15A. Book says vent canister or egr module don't know what that is. Also check engine light codes read P0443, P0135 and P0141. I know the last two are for o2 sensors, but don't want to change them because I know something else is causing them to read bad. I checked the wire on them and everything looks good as far as I can see. I also checked for vacuum leaks did see any visible. Also there is a slight continuous hum under hood. Have any ideas?
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