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Out The Door (OTD) Pricing questions



  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    Just checked this thread.

    After a quick look, surprized that no one mentioned Edmund's TMV. (Maybe it was, a few pages back). TMV represents a good price and is obtainable. Then all you need to do is add sales tax, title & state fees. Some makes also offer targeted incentives not available to everyone. Check to see if the car you want has any special incentives as they are not included in the TMV.
  • mirthmirth Posts: 1,212
    Yeah, if the "Prices Paid" forums don't leave me with the warm fuzzies, I usually just take a figure less than halfway between Edmunds Invoice and TMV and start negotiating there. Of course, you also have to pick an upper end number (for me, slightly less than TMV) that you won't go over. That's where a lot of gamblers get in trouble - not picking the amount to walk away.
  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    Last March I read a lot of posts on the Honda Accord 'Prices Paid' forum and most of them were not much help. Lost of people had trades and they bragged about the low price they were getting on their new car without realizing they were getting a very low value for their trade.

    However, I finally saw one about a guy paying $500 under invoice at a dealer in Manassas VA. That gave me a reason to offer that much for an Accord, and they accepted.

    Also, I went through the dealers Edmunds listed and a couple gave me a price of invoice right away over the internet.

    I think your idea of using TMV as an upper end number makes a lot of sense.
  • mirthmirth Posts: 1,212
    Yeah, I see that a lot on Prices Paid, or people bragging about getting "invoice + $100" without saying what "invoice" was (did it contain a $500 charge for advertising, the $299 doc fee, etc?).
  • krs1krs1 Posts: 36
    ODY"s are Super but as great as they are, MSRP (which I think is very outrageous for any kind of vehicle) is a Rip Off...

    It is my mission to do better than Sticker/MSRP....
  • krs1krs1 Posts: 36
    I wish I could take someone who is a seasoned veteran with me.

    Thanks for the heads up about the Finance guy... I am not one of those who will buy something that I cant afford. I want to pay cash when I go to the dealer. I prefer to get my financing elsewhere, unless they can match a good % rate I get prior to going to the dealer.

    Are you a dealer?
  • hi, I live in Denver, I have tried to contact some dealerships throught their internet salesman, so far what they can offer is $500 less than MSRP for 2006 Ody, I am looking for EX-L without NAVI or DVD, the MSRP is like $31345, less $500 -> $30845. So far I have not come to the dealership to fight. Just for your info..
  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    "so far what they can offer is $500 less than MSRP for 2006 Ody"

    Remember, you never know what price the dealer will accept until you go there with your checkbook and make a firm offer.

    The dealer may say they will only accept $30845. However, if you offer $29000 and are ready to write them a check right then and there, they may accept.

    On the other hand, they may give you the same boot the Australian parliament wanted to give Bart Simpson. If that happens, please don't do what Bart did.

    In short, you never know what will happen if you make an offer. That is what makes car buying so much fun.
  • krs1krs1 Posts: 36
    I am still a little nervous about the OTD I came up with. Here is what I planned on emailing as a OTD

    As Reference points: 06 ODY EX-L RES (DVD) & Nav
    Edmunds TMV= $33,848
    MSRP/Destination (Edmunds) : $35,145

    OTD = Invoice & Destination (per Costco Auto Program) $31,673 + $1,270 (Fees Taxes & Such... per someone who lives in Va Beach & posted on Price Paid forum ) = $32,942

    Question to All is ....
    OTD $32,942 an Unrealistic Price to be Paid???

    I want to be viewed as a serious buyer & not viewed as ridiculous, brushed off b/c "too low ball" by the dealerships I will email.

    Help me out here Ya'll... All comments welcome.

    "bobst" got a opinion?? You taught me a lot via these posts.... :)
    Dealers Please way in.... ThNX
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I just had some pretty good luck emailing dealers about an '05 Civic as they were all pretty much competitive, selling them for about invoice plus a dealer fee of 400-500 plus TTL. They were all pretty much within 200-300 bucks of each other.
    When talking with the sales person on the phone, they were all professional and easy to work with. I ended up offering one $300 less than his original offer and I'm picking it up tomorrow.
    An easy transaction, though if I bought a month ago before Katrina, Rita, and gas price hikes, I could have probably got one for about 500 bucks less....oh well, I got what I was looking for, at the going rate, and the experience was excellent.
    One more note, don't get hung up on what someone else posted as the deal they got. I've found out there's so many things that affect "the going rate".
  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    Krs, I doubt very much if they will accept your offer.

    Why? Because you are sending it via Email.

    much beter to go there in person with your checkbook in hand. They will probably decline your offer, and then you should leave.

    Maybe they will follow you out to your car and say they accept it, like has happened on our last three car purchases.

    On the other hand, they may let you leave, as has also happened to us. Then you have ABSOLUTE PROOF that your offer was too low and you know you will have to increase it.

    By the way, I have no idea if your offer is reasonable or not because I haven't done the research on the Oddity. Good luck.
  • krs1krs1 Posts: 36
    Hi bobst...

    thanks for the reply...
    let me ask this...

    If you go in person and they turn down the offer and let me walk do I...then go back to the same dealership with a higher offer??? :confuse:

    or can I go back to that same dealership??

    btw: of course asking them to quote first... I was thinking sending the OTD via email to test the waters, & see what kind of response I get first.. if all the dealerships are like no way, then wouldn't that be a tip off that the OTD was too low? i was figuring email was more "anonymous"???
  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    "how do I...then go back to the same dealership with a higher offer???"

    Well, like the Nike ad, you just do it. You drive back to the dealer the next day and make a higher offer. Or you go somewhere else.

    "if all the dealerships are like no way, then wouldn't that be a tip off that the OTD was too low?"

    Yep, it sure would be a tip off. But it would not be ABSOLUTE PROOF. When I was being educated as a mathematician, we had to absolutely and positively prove theorems were true. A tip off was not enough. That's the world I live in.
  • jmurman42jmurman42 Posts: 675
    If you asked a dealership through the INternet Dept for pricing on a car...what would want them to give you?

    What is the way you would like to be treated?
  • joel0622joel0622 Posts: 3,302
    Wow, allot of confusion on what OTD means

    Its how much money you have to give the dealer to walk out the door with the car
  • cutehumorcutehumor Posts: 137
    I got an internet quote for $18280 that included any rebates and plus a $299 advertising fee with Tax,title, and license for a 06 base pontiac vibe with preferred package, monotone package with 4 speed auto. I did research and found that the invoice for the car with options was $15526 (invoice) + $560 (destination charge) + invoice of options ($1782) =$17868. $17868 X 9.25% TN sales tax= $1652.79. so that brought the car up to $19020.79; I figured title and license was about 150 according to the DMV. so I counteroffered $19200.00 OTD. One thing I overlooked was that there is a $500 rebate on the car and I didn't figure it in either. since I have my own financing arranged and it is cheaper than the GM rate of 5 years. the internet sales manager simply said "sorry I can't accept, I wish I could, but I can't that was four days ago. Where should I go from here? cave in or wait and see. I already told him that I have no trade in. so I'm not hiding anything. I didn't dip in holdback and my previous offer had 500 extra from not including the rebate. so what do you guys think should be my next move?

    I've tried another dealer and he only offered $1100 under MSRP for the same car/options without deducting the $500 rebate. But he said if I own a non-GM car I will receive another $500 off without trade in. is this a gimmick? is GM running any rebates for dealers for people who own imports? if so, I qualify for that offer. Sorry for the long post. This is my first time buying a new car on my own. My beater from college is dying. Thanks
  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    Cute, here is the Cliff Notes version of your post: You offered $19200 OTD over the internet for a car and the dealer did not accept it.

    Here's what you can do:

    1) Go to the dealer in person and make the offer. They might accept it because they hate to see money walk out the door.

    2) Go to another dealer and make the same offer

    3) Increase your offer

    4) Buy a different kind of car
  • jmurman42jmurman42 Posts: 675
    it could be that the dealership has priced their cars to be a simple one price type of a deal.

    Internet Depts are set to to give a person a simple sale, no hassle, which alot of people really want.

    Take your offer into the Internet Dept and investigate further if you want. If they have the car instock and the price is close to what you are willing to pay, then maybe they'll split the difference with you.
  • OK i found a used 2002 Acura RSX at a local dealership with 7149 miles and an advertised price of $18995. Now after taxes and fees this would be more like 21 or 22 grand. I don'nt want to pay that much but i dont have experiance with dealerships. i am planning to pay cash up front, but i dont know what a reaosnable OTD offer would be. I really can't afford much more then $17000 or $17500 out the door but i really don't think that is in the ballpark for a car with such low mileage. But i also don't know how much higher to go. Any help would be appreciated, and please if nay dealers are on here i would appreciate some honest advise from the inside mind.
  • exb0exb0 Posts: 539
    I am not a dealer, but I will express my opinion. $18995 for a four year RSX, are they NUTS? Are you nuts for even considering it? Regardless of mileage, it’s a FOUR year old car. 2006 base RSX auto trans, w/o leather, invoices at $20000. I bet you could easily get it for that much if not lower.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Posts: 8,458
    Is it an auto or manual?
    Is it an S-Type or just standard?
    Does it have leather?

    Give me a bit more info and I could probably tell you about what they own it for depending on your region.

    Give me what color and where the vehicle is located too.
  • It is dark red five speed automatic, with grey leather seats. It is located in avon Ct, im not sure what there zip is but mine is 06786 and the dealer is 12 miles away from me so that should be a decent estimate of region. I would really appreciate some help.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Posts: 8,458
    Oh man that car is actually right next to my dealership.

    I am on my way out to pick up a clients car for service but when I get back I will give you some numbers.

    That is so funny.
  • Yeah that would really help, i don't suppose you could also give me a guess at about how long they have had the car out there?
  • british_roverbritish_rover Posts: 8,458
    I don't remember exactly when that car popped up on their lot but it has been a while. Maybe as much as a month I am not sure.

    Very interesting car. Straight addition for the low miles and leather by Galves puts the car at about 16,500 but you can't really straight add the miles for this car cause the miles are so low.

    The car is an outlier to use statistical speak.

    My gut tells me they own it for less then 16,500 but I don't know how much less. Maybe 14,800 or 15,200 something like that.

    Do you know if it was a trade in or if they bought it at auction?

    Typicaly a vehicle that was traded in on another car carries a stock number something like this 12345A or 12345B with the 1234 part being the stock number of the car that the used car was traded in on.

    If they took it in trade they probably paid a little less then they would have if they bought it at auction.

    You never mentioned if it was certified or not either so that would add 1000 or so dollars to the cost of the car.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Posts: 8,458
    I found the car you were talking about online.

    Stock number tells me it was a trade in and the carfax tells me they have had it since April, 6th. I would guess they run a 60 days or longer turnover on their used cars since they have not dropped the price. They are still asking way to much for the car probably thinking someone looking for a RSX might pay the extra to get the low miles.

    I would go in during a slow time in the week take the car for a drive really look it over and see if you can get them to name a number. Don't ask too soon though I hate when I am talking to someone outside about a car and they want me to name numbers before they have even sat in the vehicle. Their is a time for asking for a price and that is much to early to do it.

    If they won't offer any number up or won't discount too much off the car then offer like 15,800 or something and see what they do.
  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    $19K for a 2002 RSX seems EXTREMELY high.

    We bought a new 2003 base RSX with leather seats for $20500 out-the-door in October 2003. That price included everything - transportation, sales tax of 3%, DOC fee, tag, title, etc.

    From reading the posts in, I get the impression that a lot of young people drive their cars very, very hard. Not sure I would want a used one.

    The car is joy to drive and, with the hatch and rear seats that fold down, is also very practical. What a wonderful car!
  • Just for curiosity, what state is that in?
  • Thanks for all the help so far, my Uncle and I are going to look at the car this week if it is still there. So since i am new at dealing wiht dealerships, what should i expect to have added on as hidden fees. Tax at 6%, but whats a reasonable document fee, registration fee. What other fees should i look out for. i would hate to haggle and get what i think is a sweet offer, and then have to walk away when the fees bring it up over the amount i can shell out.
  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    We are in Virginia.
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