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Ford F-150 Owners



  • Open your tail gate, there shoud be two screws or bolts, that you remove. They are located near the edge of the lense assembly where your tail gate meets your lense. Your liner might have a lip that covers them. Once those are removed it is just the self locking tabs that hold the whole tail light in. The trick is to pull straight back and not at any type of angle as your pulling. It even sounds like something is sometimes breaking but its not. It just the noise they make when you pull them (tail light) out. Next is just doing the press a twist on the bulb socket to replace what ever bulb. Good luck

    replaced harmonic balancer $600., was about 35 deg late.

    After 2 days 200 miles.

    Showes what a real mech can do.

  • HI
    My other horror story.
    1979 351M
    THIS ONE TOOK 2 YEARS TO FIND. I drive 50 miles to work at 50 to 70 mph.
    Would run eratic (sometimes good or bad), start good go bad, start bad go good.
    Clasic computer problem for this time period, (comp good about 3years).
    Started carrying digonostic equiptment.

    One day noticed the timing was eratic, (patteren not the same) not on #1 but on some of the others.
    Replaced sensor (no points). Good for about 20 miles, then problems.
    Replaced computer, good for under 40mph.
    Replaced carb fuel filter, TWICE, added big filter the third time. (GOOD AT ANY SPEED).

    This is a real story, I am giving it as an example of what can happen.

    There is another story about a 1989 302, which is on going.

    I hope this helps someone, (NOTHING LIKE A REAL MECH).

  • Hi

    If I remember right Ford related to it in their maintenance section for much older models. (If necessary, rough or eratic or loss of power).

    Being a driver of an F150 302 1995 with 370k miles:
    1) get your gas from other than a convience store, (a national gas station).
    2) see if there is infomation on gas providers web sites, or and, on
    the makers of the injector cleaners.Go to your auto center and find
    the names.
    3) Personal comment ;
    If you realy needed this at 15k, you need a new "motor" at 60k.
    4) If I remember right 10 to 15 years ago "CONSUMER REPORTS"
    did a thing for 100k miles, all of the big oil passed, (the test was for
    carbon deposits, (clean engine).

    If your performance had changed????
    In other words (HYPE)
    I will not question if they did the work, only that it was not necessary at 15k.
    I would like the monitor to respond.

  • Much appreciation to mickymouse 2. The process outlined to replace my turn signal/brake light bulb worked like a charm. I had previously called the Ford dealer where I bought the truck and I got a kind of "duh" response.
  • Need some help here folks. I have my F150 XLT with a 5.4L V8 at the shop right now. It goes into 4Hi and 4Lo fine, but when I try to take it back to 2Hi it stays in whatever it was in. Unless I stop the truck and back it up. The shop thinks they know the cause is in the axle assembly and the warranty company is making them take it all apart to identify the failed part before they will agree to pay for it. The shop checked the transfer case and all of the electrical engaging units and ruled all them out. Does anyone have any idea what this may be or if it is something that may be covered under a warranty for having 73K. Any help is appreciated to save me about $900 if the problem is not with the axel assembly!!
  • Hi,

    Can anyone please give me any heads up on purchasing this Ford Truck, I have had my eye on it for awhile but was told the the Ford F150 has much trouble with the engine and tranny. The truck has 48,000 miles on it and the dealer is giving me 6 months warranty on the engine and tranny. I like the body because it has a really big bed which is what i need and the truck looks just great! Please let me know if there is any know problems with this year and type of truck and if there is how to avoid any serious damage or repairs. Here is a link to the truck Please help!!!


  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    I would never ever ever ever ever ever ever.....purchase a vehicle from a dealer that did not provide VINS on their website. Are they trying to prevent you from running a Carfax? What do they have to hide? Also, all those after market accessories are just going to cause you problems. 24 inch wheels? They probably knock about 1,000 pounds off of your towing capacity.

    The main thing with the F-150 is to get the service records. You need to know if the trans service was done at 30k.

  • I'm a mechanic and while all manufacturers have their problems with certain models, I haven't heard any on your year. There have been some complaints of the head gaskets leaking on the 99-01 F150, but the numbers to me are not significant enough. Fuel pumps have a tendancy to go bad early if the fuel tank is below a 1/4 tank of gas all the time. Remember, the fuel in the tank is the only thing that keeps that electric pump cool. Just a tip. Enjoy your truck, and Merry Xmass.
  • Just a note. There is a lot of liability in printed advertisement of vin#. If your one charactor off by a type-o, depending on the state, Dealerships are opening themselves up for a law suit. As for Carfax, omg. Carfax is not all knowing. It only has information that is reported to insurance companies, DMV, smog check amoung other sources. I'm a certified technician and I have found numerous vehicles that pass a carfax, and have major problems with them. If a vehicle was un insured and involved in an accident and repaired in a persons garrage, or in mexico, carfax would have no record of it. Carfax is over rated. The best check on a used vehicle is by a qualified technician.
  • I have an 88 f150 xlt Lariat with a 5.0l in mint condition with only 84, 000 on it. I have replaced and upgraded just about everything on this motor, from intake to fuel system.
    I recently found oil in my coolant. the truck is still running great no pings, no knocks. Do I need to replace the head gasket?
  • Don't tear the engine down just yet. First verify where the oil is coming from. You didn't specify if it was Automatic/manual Trans. If it is a stick shift skip the first parragraph.
    A common mistake by even fellow mechanics is a leak in the oil cooler for the transmission. Transmission fluid looks just like engine oil when aggitated and mixed with coolant. Here is a simple test; disconect both transmission lines to the radiator. Hold your finger over one of the holes and put some compressed air through the other port for about five minuts. During this test, look for some small air bubbles coming up into the radiator. This test can be inconclusive, the leak may only occur when hot. If no bubbles, I would still install an after market oil cooler for the transmission, blow out excess fluid from the internal cooler, and drain/flush the radiator and fill it with water. Then run the engine for a good amount of time and look for any oil in the radiator.

    After all this testing if there is still oil getting into radiator, I would suspect a leak in the lower manifold gasket first, and not the head gaskets, (more common with the 5.0). While head gaskets can introduce oil into the cooling system, it is very rare. I would be very interested in what you find out on a repost. Good luck.
  • I don't know if it's a "scam", but I *do* know that I just got a letter from Ford referring to my 2005 F150 Lariat Crew Cab with the 5.4 triton V8. Here's what it said:
    "In the interest of customer satisfaction, Ford Motor Company is extending the limited warranty on the Fuel Injectors to a total of 11 years or 120,000 miles from the warranty start date, whichever occurs first. Coverage is automatically transferred to subsequent owners. This coverage exceeds the original warranty coverage provisions of your vehicle for this part"

    They say, "This is customer satisfaction program 07M08 which is being extended to owners of certain 2005 Model year F150, F Super Duty, Expedition, and Navigator Vehicles equipped with 5.4L 3Valve Engines."

    So, I think Ford has discovered a problem where injectors from a certain supplier stick in the open or closed position on some vehicles, so perhaps your dealer is trying to prevent the problem by proactively using injector cleaner...

    BTW, I've had zero problems with my injectors over the last 38,000 miles. I get 14 to 16 mpg city, and 17 to 19 mpg highway. :shades:
  • Maybe I jumped the gun a little. Here is the lowdown on the specs and history.

    1988 f150 XLT Lariat
    50.l Auto 3 speed with overdrive
    fully loaded.

    It seems to me that this happened after i got stuck in the snow and almost overheated the motor. When this happened my temp gauge went up close to the redline and a litle dark blue smoke came up from the passenger side of the hood. I shut it down right away and waited about 20 minutes. The truck started up fine and seemed ok. This was two weeks after I put in a new water pump and radiator. I drove the truck for about a week when I decided to check the fluids, this is when I noticed oil floating at the top of my coolant tank. I checked the radiator and sure enough same thing. My oil pressure is a little lower than it should be but not much, my temp is good too. When I had the waterpump off the coolant was clean. I brought it home and parked it until I get it sorted out.

    Hope this helps.
  • Sorry, just saw your message. If it were me, and I could wait a little while, I'd wait until the middle of 2008, when Ford comes out with their 2009 models. I am reading that Ford will be coming out with a DIESEL F150 in their 2009 lineup. That, for me, would be the perfect vehicle to do what you are wanting to do. You don't need all the xtra weight of a superduty to pull a 7500# trailer, but you would LOVE to have a diesel engine to do it, because of the higher torque, and the ability, if you wish, to use Biodiesel, wich is about to get pretty cheap.

    In addition, you can get the new cool backup-video-in-the-rear-view-mirror option that Ford is coming out with this year. Check it out here:

    Good luck!
  • There may have just been some packing oil inside the radiator or water pump you installed or something may have just got into the cooling system when the water pump was replaced. Flush it out and see if it returns. If it does, do what I suggested to find out what is causing it. Just because the engine got hot, don't assume that the heads are now bad. I have even had brand new radiators have a leak in the internal oil cooler. Someone screwed up at the factory. The puff of smoke on the drivers side could have been anything; snow melting on something hot and oily, who knows.
  • Any advice on how to go about flushing the oil out of my cooling system?
  • Autozone has a flushing tee you can buy. Cost is 1.00 or a flush kit that is about 4.00. There are only 3 size heater hoses. The kit has all 3 and female to female connector to attach your hose to the tee. Here is a helpful hint. Turn your garden hose on slowly until you see how fast the water is coming out what ever opening you made,(radiator cap). Turning your garden hose on full blast might drench you and your engine compartment. You want it coming out fast, just not so it makes a mess.

    You cut one of your heater hoses and put the tee in there at the cut with hose clamps. Unscrew the cap on the tee and connect your garden hose to it. Take your radiator cap off. Turn your garden hose on to desired flow. Start the engine and turn on your heater. Everything will flush out through your radiator cap you removed. Run the engine and your garden hose until crystal clear water is coming out of the radiator. Here's a hint. Turn your heater on full blast to clear that out also. If you have done your own water pump and radiator, you will breez through this. Connecting the tee take about 2 minuts. Run the car at least 10-15 minuts during the flush. When your all done, don't forget to put the cap back on the tee you installed, and the cap on the radiator. The flush kit has a deflector nossle that sticks into the opening of your radiator cap. This helps control the direction of the flow of water away from eloectrical components and the fan. Driving arround with just water for a while isn't going to hurt anything, your doing your test for the oil thing. You can add coolant later by draining the petcock or removing the lower hose. Drive it for a while and see if the oil comes back. If it does, repeat flush and bypass the oil cooler with an after market air cooled oil cooler.
  • Thanks for the help. I will let you know how I made out.

    Quick question. I cannot find a reference to an oil cooler in my haynes manual, my rad did not have one attached, just the upper lower rad hoses and the tranny lines. Is there somewhere else I should be looking or my model doesn't have one. I find reference to 7.5l and 5.8l lightning only.
  • The oil cooler on most vehicles is inside the radiator, thats why the trans lines connect there. Even the ones that are external are sometimes just an added inline cooler to the system, to help keep that trany oil cool. I'm not surprised about no mention in auto books. There is a lot that is not mentioned in auto manuals.
  • Almost forgot a tidbit of info. The external oil coolers are usally intended for added cooling of the trans oil for the tow package thing, or the manufactor found that the system needed extra cooling. They are also found(oil coolers) on power steering systems also, and for engine oil cooling also for those off road guys mostly. Just a little info to file away somewhere. Good luck!
  • Thanks for the info. Just a quick couple of questions. If it was oil in my coolant wouldn't it look like chocolat milk? If it was a gasket wouldn't it go both ways by having coolant in my oil as well. I ran the truck yesterday just to see how it is operating and I noticed that I am not losing any oil pressure. I was a little happy with the gasket sealer I put on the waterpump now that I am running through it in my mind. Would that material float on top of the coolant.
    am going to do the flush today and see how it goes.
  • Good news. I have been running the truck for a few days and nothing in my coolant. Clean as a whistle! Thanks for the help, I almost ripped the top of my motor apart for no reason.
  • Glad to be of help.
  • I would just like to post a thank you to mickeymouse2 for helping me with a recent issue with my vehicle. He saved me alot of time and money.

    I have been working on my 1988 f150 xlt lariat for quite sometime now and have big plans to turn this truck into a speed demon in the the spring. I am primarily concentrating on the motor at the moment. I have upgraded to a dual intake with seperate k&n filters (lucky this model's throttle body has seperate ports for intake tubes) I have installed bosch ultimate and Accel spiro high temp wires. I installed a throttle body spacer, new rad, water pump, hoses, egr valve, o2 sensor, starter, alternator, solenoid, upgraded to true dual 3' exhaust with magnaflow cats and cherry bomb mufflers (not to happy with these, not the sound I was expecting) custom made tailpipes 4 feet long at 3.5" diametre, cut to 45' at the tip. I have flushed and cleaned every system that has fuid in it. I switched to castrol syntec.
    The truck moves pretty good now from when I pulled it out of a 15 year storage.

    I am not getting the thottle response I would like of the line and if I catch 3rd gear in a lower rpm while coasting through town it sounds like an old farm truck. When I stomp on it it screams though. I have noticed the old crappy gas pedal is not very good and seems to stick a little. I have heard that I could install an aftermarket gas pedal and flip it upside down to get a little more response out of the old girl.

    I am planning on having the computer, heads, headers, and possibly a MAF conversion done in the spring, if I am brave enough to tackle it. Are there any other tricks I could try to get more throttle response out of my lower gears at lower rpms?
  • sells horsepower upgrades. You listed just about everything except maybe headers. Try checking them out or calling them for other suggestions. If my memory is correct, there is a performance control modual that adds about 90 horse power to the rear end for your yaer truck.
  • I had an independent look at it. It's the clock spring. This is the second one I've replaced.
  • I will shop around for one. Thanks. I was thinking of installing an intake plenum spacer. Do these do anything? If so what is the difference between the 3/8 and 1" spacers? I have to remove my rocker covers to deal with a little oil leak on the passenger side, wich requires removing the plenum. I thought I would install a spacer while i'm in there, they come with the gaskets anyway.

    When I installed my throttle body spacer I noticed gunk on the inside of the plenum what would you suggest using to clean and maybe polish up the upper intake? I might as well do everything while i'm in there.
  • Use carburetor cleaner spray, B12 berrymans is the best. Any type of cleaner will work though, even brake cleaner spray. B12 just takes that "coke" its called right off and quick. Just remember aluminum is a soft metal. Don't use any type of power wire wheel or anything. It might remove some of the metal and change the shape.

    As for the spacers. Yes they do work. In a nut shell it increases the velocity and volume of air going into the manifold. Some will add turbulence to the air so when it is addimised with fuel and drawn into a cylinder, you get a more complete burn or combustion. The makers have it down to a science as to which size you should use. Sometimes it depends what other applications you have added or are planning to add. Even if your not going to get one through summit racing, at least talk with them about it, they are very helpful about it.

    I dont know how far you want to go with your upgrades. One thing would be to replace your radiator fan with an electric one. That adds about 3-5 extra horses. Heck, some people even replace their water pump with an electric driven one to add extra horse power.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    He is checking for the smell of anti-freeze which indicates a blown head gasket.

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