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Volkswagen TDI Models



  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Based on parts available at, it appears all the 4cyl's (gas/diesel) have the same compressor. V6 is different. I'd recommend buying from them as they will know what to send you more than anyone (maybe a dealer, but that's questionable at best!). Their price is probably better as well. They have four to pick from, $275-$625. They could probably tell you what the difference was more than I could!
  • Hi, I'm new here. I bought an '04 TDI beetle. We simply love it!! I drive a ton and living in TX nothing is very convenient so driving is a must. My question is where can I get an oil change other than the dealership. (not convenient and VERY expensive $80 for an oil change!!)
    Does Jiffy Lube do this, and would anyone have experiences with them?
    I'm considering getting the equipment to do this myself but am lazy during 100 degree heat.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    I wouldn't trust Jiffy Lube with last nights table scraps. If you're too lazy to do the work, I would look for a reputable mechanic, even better if you can find one that specializes in foreign brands. There's nothing difficult about changing the oil on a TDI. I'd even say it's easier due to the easy access to the filter and if you use a top-sider you don't even have to crawl underneath. Wait until the sun goes down!

    Just make sure you or the mechanic uses the proper oil that is spec'd in your owners manual. The dealers aren't batting 1000 at this, so I doubt a independant would do much better until you tell them it has specific requirements.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    i do use a trusted quick-oil-change place for my TDI oil changes sometimes. last time i did that was with a 2003 jetta - naturally i supplied compliant oil (Shell Rotella-T) since none of the valvoline oils met 505.00 spec.
    i have not yet used the quick-oil-change place for either of my PD TDIs but might plan to do so - only for one of the oilchanges that does not call for fuel-filter-swap too.
  • fletcherffletcherf Posts: 1
    I am a rookie vw,tdi owner. Bought it with 600 miles on it. It now has 5000. Lovin it. What oil and filter should I use. Ive heard to use mobile one syn. any help out there? also, didnt know I was suppose to be "breakin it in," what hould i do? thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    most Mobil1 oils are NOT suitable for TDI.

    First of all, you need to know which TDI engine you have... then we can talk about what oil you should be using.
  • bfredbfred Posts: 4
    has anyone had experience with the dealer "rustproofing" that involves an electrode monitor? Of course, we always think these dealer gimmicks you hear when you buy the car are just that--any ideas--sounds like it might work--living in Nova Scotia we gets lots of salt in the winter, etc., so anything might help. thanks
  • bfredbfred Posts: 4
    thanks to both of you--i will give those a try. bfred
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    rustproofing is a total scam. avoid it without exception.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There is no need to "rustproof" a Volkswagen. All VWs come from the factory with a galvanoic dipped coating that makes it nearly rustproof. You wont find that on any other vehicle in this price range.

    That is why VW offers the 12-year/unlimited milage corrosion warantee.
  • mrjettemrjette Posts: 122
    I brought my '05 Passat TDI to the local dealer for a 20K service. I specifically asked that they note on the invoice that the oil change was 505.01 compliant. For oil, they used "Volkswagon oil - VAG-052-167-A2". Who makes this stuff for VW??

    They also added an oil additive (BG 110 - BG MOA® see description below) and Fuel additive (BG 208 - BG 44K® Power Enhancer™ see description below). I refused to pay for these items ($30.90) as i think they are a waste of money and also fear they may void the warranty. Any thoughts?

    BG MOA® prevents oxidation and thickening of engine oil under even the most severe stop-and-go, high temperature driving conditions. It fortifies all qualities of engine oil to provide superior long-lasting engine protection and helps maintain optimum engine performance. BG MOA® keeps piston ring belts, hydraulic lifters and other engine components clean to help extend engine life and reduce costs of operation. It is compatible with both synthetic and petroleum-base oils. The Thin Film Oxidation Uptake Test (TFOUT), ASTM Test Method D4742, proves BG MOA’s remarkable resistance to oxidation by more than 200% longer than six major brands of SL quality oil. At the conclusion of the API Sequence IIIF Engine Test‚ a major brand, high-quality reference oil barely passed the 80-hour test with a viscosity increase of 255 percent. At 80 hours, another brand of oil fortified with BG MOA® had a viscosity increase of only 57 percent. At the conclusion of the triple-length, 240-hour test, it was still well within the viscosity limits with an increase of only 198 percent.

    BG 44K® Power Enhancer™ safely, rapidly and thoroughly removes engine deposits in combustion chambers, intake manifolds, ports and on valves. It restores flow in fuel injectors and cleans the entire fuel system. BG 44K® Power Enhancer™ improves fuel economy and reduces exhaust emissions. It actually restores that “like new” driveability to an engine’s performance and keeps it running better, longer and more efficiently. Add one can or bottle to fuel tank at fill up. NOTE: After clean-up with BG 44K® Power Enhancer,™ regular use of BG Supercharge®II‚ Part No. 202‚ in gasoline engines or BG Diesel Fuel Conditioner with DPL‚ Part No. 2276‚ in diesel engines will prevent deposits from forming in the fuel system and upper engine for maximum driveability and fuel economy. Part No. 208 11 oz. can
  • airedadairedad Posts: 5
    Yesterday I took delivery on a new 2006 Jetta TDI (and it took a while to find what I wanted ... but that's another story). While I have previously owned a diesel, that was a looooooong time ago and things are somewhat different. I did my homework and have read everything I could find, but still have a couple of questions.

    Fuel additives - I realize that an additive such as the Amisoil cetane boost is needed with fill-ups, I haven't had much luck finding them in the Atlanta area (OK, I tried 3 places and decided to write the list). Is there any general consensus on which one is best and possibly the easiest way to find it?

    My other question is about oil changes. Although what I have read specified oil changes every 10K miles, the dealer is recommending that the oil be changed every 5K miles. While this is not a problem for now (to "make" the deal when the wrong color car came in, I got 'free' oil changes every 5K miles through 50K miles), I am wondering whether this is dealer overkill or a good practice.

    Great car to drive - a lot more fun than the 2 Honda's I was looking at, BTW.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Unless your dealer can show you where these additives are required via a TSB or other VW publication, then you have every right to refuse payment.

    Best Regards,
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Changing the oil more frenquently than what VW recommends is a waste of your $$ and a waste of the envrionment. Dont forget that the FIRST OCI (Oil Change Interval) is NOT 10,000 miles.

    It has been shown (by folks that have their oil tested regularly) that more wear actually occours immedeatly after an oil-change. It has also been shown that the oil could be run for 15,000 miles with no additional wear to the engine.

    This means that the recomended 10,000 mile OCI should not be done more frenquently. It only puts more $$ into the pockets of the folks doing the oil change.

    As for FUEL additives, for a diesel engine, there is no doubt that they are benifetial. The added lubricant for the expensive fuel pump is reason-enough alone. The additional MPG and quieter running are also worthwhile.

    I carry fuel additive in my trunk (double sealed within a plastic container) I also carry a supply of 8oz paper cups so I can measure out 6oz for the fueltank and toss the stinky cup in the trash.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    I've been using the Stanadyne Performance Formula year around for the past year. Using one formula year around seems easier than using the white bottle or grey bottle additives sold at Walmart. Plus, I get friendly service at the Stanadyne distributor and do not have to enter Walmart once or twice a year.

    Here is a link for more information. There is also a dealer locator link on the page if you are interested.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    (Sorry if this is a repost)

    for those of us that are "Acronymicly" :P challenged like me, ULSD stands for Ultra Low Sulfer Diesel.

    I found this link about ULSD.

    Basically, ULSD is diesel fuel that only has about 5% sulfer which is down from the 97% that we have. My only concern with my new interest in diesel is older cars (and newer ones alike) that are used to running on the current diesel. I'm wondering if the vehicle will still function the same with ULSD. Is it like going from 91octane gas to 87octane or vice versa? :confuse: :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The "Octane" of gasoline has no comparison on "Cetane" used to measure Diesel fuel. In fact, they are closer to being opposates than synonyms. (Higher "Octane" in gasoline means LOWER flashpoint ---- Higher "Cetane" in diesel means more energy available in the fuel)

    In reference to ULSD and older Diesel engines.... the sulfer *may* have offered some lubrication qualities which were benifitial to the high-pressure fuelpump.

    The ULSD fuel also has specifications about lubrication-quality that is INTENDED to lubricate the high-pressure fuelpump.

    Also, the reduction of sulfer in the ULSD will BENIFET the older TDI engines by reducing combustion deposits.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    While your points regarding Diesel fuel and Cetane are points I won't even consider challenging, I must take exception to the statement: "Higher "Octane" in gasoline means LOWER flashpoint..."

    Sorry, it means nothing of the sort. ALL gasolines have roughly the same flash point (typically between -46 and -50 degrees centigrade, varying by the manufacturer NOT fuel grade). What the Octane number does signify is any given fuels' "Anti-Knock" capabilities. Said another way, the higher the octane, the slower the burn rate.

    Best Regards,
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your perception of Octane is only one-sided.... the way that higher octane reduces "knocking" or "pre ignition" is by LOWERING THE FLASHPOINT so that the FA mixture does not spontainiously ignite before the sparkplug fires it.

    Using too low an octane in a high-compression or turbocharged engine can pre-ignite and punch holes in pistons. This is because the FA mixture will tend top ignite too soon due to too LOW a flashpoint when it is under pressure.

    The "slower burning" is also a measure of octane....but that gets into the 2 different ways of measuring octane and how they are averaged together to give us the "pump octane" we typically see labelled on the gas pumps.

    Here is a LINK to help you understand octane.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    While I haven't read your link yet (I'm very well aware of how Octane ratings are calculated and how fuels are mixed to yield different octane ratings), I will however look at it to see if it contains anything of substance after I finish this post. In the mean time, I think you need to look at the definition of "Flash Point":

    The flash point of a flammable liquid is the lowest temperature at which it can form an ignitable mixture with air (assuming an ignition source such as a spark from a spark plug). At this temperature the vapor may cease to burn when the source of ignition is removed.

    Looked at another way, gasoline that is nearing its flash point is usually so cold that that’s about all it can do, “Flash”. Cause a spark plug to “Spark” in close proximity with gasoline that is near its flash point and you will get a brief “flash” and then the flame will simply extinguish itself.

    Please correct me if I'm wrong, however, I believe the term you are searching for is the "Autoignition Temperature" (the temperature at which a properly mixed and compressed air and fuel charge will self ignite) which is defined as the following:

    The autoignition temperature, or the ignition temperature of a substance is the lowest temperature at which a chemical will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere, without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical will detonate decreases as the pressure increases or oxygen concentration increases (to a point after which the flame front will not be able to propagate itself). This term is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture under some form of pressure (i.e. compression or turbine boost).

    FWIW, the "Flash Point" of all grades of automotive gasoline is generally considered to be about -46 degrees Celsius while the "Autoignition Temperature" is generally considered to be nearly 300 degrees Celsius higher, somewhere around 246 degrees Celsius.

    Best Regards,
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Nope, no Earth shattering revelations in that article. That having been said, reading it just confirmed my suspicion that you do in fact understand the process and had simply chosen an incorrect term to define what it was that you were trying to say. ;-)

    Best Regards,
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Posts: 148
    I just bought a new 205 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport (Diesel)with tow package in October. I now have 19,000 on it and it runs very well. I would like to talk to anyone that is interested in trading their 05 or 06 VW TDI for this vehicle. It has full 4 wheel drive (trail rated) and can tow 3500 lbs. These vehicles are very peppy and great to drive. I thought I needed to be able to tow but I really don't. These vehicles get the best mileage of any true 4 wheel drive vehicle. I would prefer a wagon but will consider other trades. Send me an email if you are interested.
    Thanks. :)
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Try I put up the advanced search. All you have to do is fill in the blanks. O and under fuel, make sure you put diesel instead of alternative. Make sure you push the bubble for sedan (or wagon if'd like a wagon) so only jettas or possibly the old passat shows up. :) Hey it so specific, it might find you the car you want down to the nitty gritty. :shades:
  • airedadairedad Posts: 5
    I got my 06 Jetta TDI on Saturday, and this is the first diesel I have had since ... well it feels like millenia ago ... (OK, the last time I bought diesel was in 1969 - things have changed just a bit).

    It's a tad hard to find in my local area (just my luck) but I have now found about 10 stations within a few miles of my normal commute.

    However, I also note that several "brands" (primarily Shell) have a common pump and hose for gas (reg, mid-grade, hi-test) and diesel. Should I worry about contamination of the diesel if I buy there?

    Also, NOT A SINGLE ONE OF THE STATIONS has the pumps labeled as to what type of diesel it is. The are all marked simply "Diesel". Nor could the managers at the 5 stations I asked tell me. While I am sure it couldn't possibly be ULSD or Bio-diesel (they'd trumpet that loudly), there's no way to tell if it is LSD (500ppm, 150ppm, etc. ad nauseum), #2, or for that matter kerosene or ... well, you can tell it isn't diesel #3 (that thick stuff that almost looks like tar). Two of the managers even went to the invoice and checked, but everything was marked simply "diesel".

    Any suggestions on this one - I mean is it safe to assume it is #2 or ... well you get the picture. Suggestions?

  • airedadairedad Posts: 5
    Re-reading the service booklet that came with my Jetta, I discovered that VW is now recommending the oil and filter be changed every 5K miles. This seems odd as the oil should go 10-15Kmiles (although the filter needs changing more frequently than that of course).

    Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this one.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Ok as i am writing this, ULSD is on the way to many of our local gas stations!!

    The bad news is that Vw is dropping the Jetta TDI for 2007 :(. The good news is that "i just saved a bunch of money on my car insurance by selling my lambo, porsche and Nsx" :blush: j/k (about the exotics)

    Seriously, the good news is that Vw is building a NEW 2.0liter diesel likely to be called CDI or CRD for 2008. I found that here on edmunds :)
  • mrjettemrjette Posts: 122
    I have never seen diesel and gasoline sold from the same pump AND hose. Look closer. In New England, in an 8 pump station, they may have diesel avaiable at only one pump. But it has 2 hoses - one for gas and one dedicated to diesel fuel.

    I always wondered about the amount of fuel left in the hose. If I pay for hi-test, but get half a gallon of regular at 20 cents less, that is a rip-off. If you think it is insignificant, a local deli recently got fined by the state for not subtracting the weight of the piece of plastic that comes under the meat! Add up the "extra" price in already inflated gasoline!
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    You can just assume it's #2 diesel, that's a given. How high is the sulphur? You'd have to find where they buy their diesel and then ask the distributor. Those are the folks that know about fuels, not the guy working the counter at the station. I went to a couple fuel depots and ask about their diesel. BP has a product call "diesel supreme" that is nearly ULSD here in the midwest. It's more expensive, but is a higher cetane, 15ppm sulphur, low aromatic fuel. Doesn't smell nearly as strong as diesel and burns quieter. It's also clear, almost looks like Sprite. That's about the only way to know. FWIW, I think it's more important to buy from stations that turn-over a lot of fuel. The small stations that don't move much diesel are more likely to have growth/water in the fuel which will cause more problems than anything.

    As to the oil changes....I obviously can't comment on the newest models however even my model recommended the first two oil changes be performed at 5k mile intervals and then 10k miles after that. I can't imagine they lowered the change intervals overall, if they're still calling for synthetic oil. My book also references using 5k intervals if you're NOT using synthetic. Of course, there's been a lot of VW owners manuals being completely WRONG before so nothing would really surprise me too much.
  • allhorizonallhorizon Posts: 483
    Seriously, the good news is that Vw is building a NEW 2.0liter diesel likely to be called CDI or CRD for 2008.

    I wouldn't bet on that change of nomenclature. It's like 4Motion or quattro: more of a brand name than a technical description. VW/Audi has build common rail Diesel engines for a long time. Now the time has come that novel piezo technologies have become sufficiently fast and competitive, allowing for unprecedented control of multiple injections within the burn cycle, thus helping to reduce emissions to prescribed levels.

    VW will still call it TDI, in my humble opinion.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I agree with you..... when VW changed over from original TDI engine to "pumpe duse" in 2004... they still called it "TDI".

    Likewise -- A "common rail injection" engine is still technically a "Turbocharged Direct Injection" engine and could be called TDI.

    Also.. I would be VERY VERY surprised if this is a TOTALLY NEW engine.... VW has been using the same basic casting for the engine block since they started selling watercooled engines.... There is no reason for that to change now.

    Do not forget that here in NorthAmeica... we get the "old" technologies that have been sold in Europe for several years... again - I dont see that longstanding tradition changing. BUT WOULD HEARTILLY WELCOME GETTING SOME HI-TECH DIESEL TECHNOLOGY!

    Now that we have ULSD... perhaps things might just change after all?
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